Author Topic: Why rears up front? (Read 16248 times)

Hyena · « **Reply #30 on:** Mar 15, 2006, 05:19:13 PM »

Because they flex like mad if properly setup.

GrenadedToy · « **Reply #31 on:** Mar 15, 2006, 10:09:16 PM »

mine are moved to the front and they are totally stock toyota rears, no leafs from other packs added. im trying to figure out what would be a good setup. i know the popular set up is to add in trooper leafs but i want to try something different, i was thinking 2wd rangers....? or somethin like that.

IronClad · « **Reply #32 on:** Mar 15, 2006, 10:11:13 PM »

uh.. so you still have the overload in there and everything ?

Ramrod · « **Reply #33 on:** Mar 15, 2006, 10:26:44 PM »

Quote from: dig on Mar 15, 2006, 10:09:16 PM

mine are moved to the front and they are totally stock toyota rears, no leafs from other packs added. im trying to figure out what would be a good setup. i know the popular set up is to add in trooper leafs but i want to try something different, i was thinking 2wd rangers....? or somethin like that.

it doesn't matter what spring you add in there all the same as long as its not 1/2" thick. I used to have chevy 3/4 ton and a chevy nova leave mixed into mine and it worked great

whiteman · « **Reply #34 on:** Mar 16, 2006, 09:52:31 AM »

Here is a pic of mine, it is not complete but is just another idea.

This is with 29" tires in front, and 32" tires in the rear,

Five leaf pack and my "huge" drop hanger I got 5-6" of lift.

In this pic the rear suspension is not even flexing, it is all front flex. The rear is off the ground in the pic but when I put weight on it the front flexed more

MiniSimp · « **Reply #35 on:** Mar 16, 2006, 10:37:32 AM »

Ramrod · « **Reply #36 on:** Mar 16, 2006, 10:48:45 AM »

I guess its a flex contest post now then

Ramrod · « **Reply #37 on:** Mar 16, 2006, 10:50:03 AM »

top pick is 5 leaf and bottum is 7

YOguyDa · « **Reply #38 on:** Mar 17, 2006, 12:41:13 AM »

I was wondering what the deal was with spring clamps.....I noticed in Hyena's pic that only his top 3 leaves are clamped, and the bottom 4 are not. Where should they be? And how much extra play should they have for "fan out"?

Can you just pop out the clamp pins, drill your own holes and pound them in where you want?

Ramrod · « **Reply #39 on:** Mar 17, 2006, 12:46:30 PM »

most people just leave the top three clamped just how they are from the factory. Thats what i did and i'm pretty sure hyena did. on my old truck i didn't clamp them and when the suspension drooped it got alot of wrap to it and thats also a good way to break a spring

YOguyDa · « **Reply #40 on:** Mar 17, 2006, 04:41:25 PM »

Im probably going to tear apart the springs i have and see what i can come up with, this weekend. I just came in from "flexing" poser style on some old 31's in my dad's back yard

.....Not good

. NO compression or droop on the front springs and the rears went flat with the shackle on at the stock 45* and the other was dropped with the shackle verticle. I couldnt climb on top of two tires on account of i dont want to burn out my clutch and i dont have much 4wd experience... $That\'s Gay$ . I feel like a newb, but i guess i am. I'll have to take some pics before and after....Hopefully there is a defference to be seen. Im just starting to come out of the nickle and dime "road worthy" transformation, so now i can start moving on to off road capablility with ride quality in mind. Wish me luck.

Ramrod · « **Reply #41 on:** Mar 17, 2006, 05:33:11 PM »

dual case or a 4.7 case will solve the clutch burning issue and you'll notice more flex for sure as long as you don't use the stock shock/mounts

YOguyDa · « **Reply #42 on:** Mar 17, 2006, 07:49:50 PM »

I dont have any shocks on my truck...haha. If you read a few posts ago, i says what springs i've got to work with. Junk i know, but i have to try something with what i have, cus the ride of the NWOR's almost drove me to selling my truck...amongst other stupid reasons..... Glad i didnt.

eightyfive · « **Reply #43 on:** Mar 18, 2006, 07:40:56 PM »

ok, picked up the springs, i used the tuff country main leaf, stock rear mil wrap leaf, stock rear 3rd leaf, and waiting for my chevy swap part so i can take the overload and 4th leaf to use in my front custom pack. so far i jumped on top of the existing 3 pack custom and it flexes nice compared to the 3pack tuff country, which didn't flex worth sh*t when i jumped on them. so, when im done i'll have a 5 pack front leaf setup. 1 thick main, 3 thin leaves, 1 thick overload.

do you guys think this is enough? i might cut the extra rear main leafs down to use it and make a 6 leaf front pack.... but i think it'll be too stiff cuz of the thick main. what do you think?

jeff

IronClad · « **Reply #44 on:** Mar 18, 2006, 07:47:00 PM »

why do you have a overload in your front pack ? get that worthless pos spring out of there.

DTB · « **Reply #45 on:** Mar 18, 2006, 07:49:42 PM »

Quote from: IronClad on Mar 18, 2006, 07:47:00 PM

why do you have a overload in your front pack ? get that worthless pos spring out of there.

yeah, he's right. The overload should only go in the rear. For big ass heavy loads, hence the name, overload. Saves your springs from going negative $Beer Chug\'n$

eightyfive · « **Reply #46 on:** Mar 19, 2006, 02:24:04 AM »

ok, so the overload won't help preventing the fronts from prematurly going neg? i guess i should cut the extra pair of mains to put under it in place of the ol...

thanks for the commets and sorry for the high jack...what can i say, it's related to the thread.

j

YOguyDa · « **Reply #47 on:** Mar 19, 2006, 02:33:47 AM »

Well, i was up all night friday with family and friends, so once the sun came up saturday morning i decided to go mess with the front springs. Suprisingly i had some kind of second wind, because i didnt start nodding out till i was ready to put my new "custom" pack in, which was sometime around 4-5pm.

Let me tell you, Having Stiff heavily arched NWOR springs and flat soft stock front springs to work with, made it a very tough situation....So, long story short, i ended up using the top 3 stock springs with the 4th (bottom) leaf from the Stiff springs. I centered the 3rd stock spring, instead of having it offset to the back like stock and cut off the stock spring clamps because the NWOR leaf on the bottom had evenly spaced clamps.

I installed them knowing that they would bring me back down to stock ride height....And they did...I think? I dont know how high stock is for an '81? The springs aren't negative, and if anything look slightly higher than stock, but it doesnt show in the wheel wells. I need to take the 4" blocks out of the rear, to really see how it sits, because right now its RAKED! The driver's side is lower also, i know the reason, but dont know how to fix it with stock u bolts..I dont think they will hold anything else.

All in all, it doesnt seem worth all the effort at the moment. To go from 5" lift to stock ride height(crooked) in one day and only make the truck ride "ok" (compared to crap). Maybe its just a job i could only appreciate with a little more driving. I'll work on improving it.

Dont worry about it eightyfive, you're in the right place.

IronClad · « **Reply #48 on:** Mar 19, 2006, 04:03:13 AM »

Quote from: eightyfive on Mar 19, 2006, 02:24:04 AM

ok, so the overload won't help preventing the fronts from prematurly going neg? i guess i should cut the extra pair of mains to put under it in place of the ol...

thanks for the commets and sorry for the high jack...what can i say, it's related to the thread.

j

it will but its not the right way to do it.. you need to have some shorter leafs in there to help with that.. honestly i dont know how guys are doing 5 leaf packs and whatnot. my guess though is their packs wont last at all and be bent to hell soon. i'll get some good pics of my springs in a bit when the sunlight comes up to show ya guys what im talking about

eightyfive · « **Reply #49 on:** Mar 19, 2006, 08:27:42 PM »

4crawler built a 6-7 leaf pack...all the guys doing rears up front have over 5 leafs. hell, the 404404s are 5 leafs, maybe more...

KYOTA · « **Reply #50 on:** Mar 19, 2006, 08:32:21 PM »

Quote from: eightyfive on Mar 19, 2006, 08:27:42 PM

4crawler built a 6-7 leaf pack...all the guys doing rears up front have over 5 leafs. hell, the 404404s are 5 leafs, maybe more...

44044s are 7

IronClad · « **Reply #51 on:** Mar 19, 2006, 09:06:30 PM »

Quote from: eightyfive on Mar 19, 2006, 08:27:42 PM

4crawler built a 6-7 leaf pack...all the guys doing rears up front have over 5 leafs. hell, the 404404s are 5 leafs, maybe more...

just because they do it does not make it right.

eightyfive · « **Reply #52 on:** Mar 19, 2006, 09:38:56 PM »

Quote from: IronClad on Mar 19, 2006, 09:06:30 PM

just because they do it does not make it right.

can you explain what's wrong with a leaf pack having 5 or more leafs?

Hyena · « **Reply #53 on:** Mar 19, 2006, 09:59:00 PM »

He is meaning 5 leaves only. 5 leaves gives the pack more chance of flatening out at time goes on. More leaves means it can keep the arch longer. less chance of bending them too.

IronClad · « **Reply #54 on:** Mar 19, 2006, 10:04:42 PM »

yep..

more leafs = more spring life and a more even spring rate also.. thats why like deaver and them build spring packs with ALOOTTTT of thin leaves in the proper stagger..

YOguyDa · « **Reply #55 on:** Mar 19, 2006, 10:51:22 PM »

What is the proper stagger? 1.5"- 2"- 3"?

Now that i've got my truck back to stock ride height and driveability i plan on getting everything put together, so that i can do the suspension the proper way.

Let me get this straight....If i get a set of 89-95 rears, that will only move the axle forward 1" instead of 2"? I was just wondering, because i probably wont have the funds to get high steer and the driveshaft lengthened, for a while. Could my truck be streetable with the axle moved forward 2", stock length driveshaft, stock spring mounts and a drop drag link? What about 1" forward?

IronClad · « **Reply #56 on:** Mar 19, 2006, 11:04:08 PM »

stagger all depends on the springs where they are in the pack and what you want to do. and yes the 3rd gen rears only move 1" forward.. if you have a adjustable draglink you could make up the difference with that and should be able to run them. you will have to do somthing with your shackles as well.. i dunno about the driveshaft issues though

YOguyDa · « **Reply #57 on:** Mar 19, 2006, 11:09:20 PM »

So, i could get away with not dropping my front spring mounts? Or no? As far as shackles, what would have to be done? Longer shackles, or boomerang shackles...is that what you're refering to?

IronClad · « **Reply #58 on:** Mar 19, 2006, 11:18:56 PM »

yeah you wouldnt have to do anything to yer front spring mounts except replace that pin with a 9/16ths bolt welded in its place.. and i think you would have to run some serrious boomerang shackles since the springs are 51" long

Stinky · « **Reply #59 on:** Mar 28, 2006, 05:06:19 PM »

anyone ever used a pro-comp 4" lift rear leaf for the front....b/c im gonna use chevy rears and put my rears up front...buuuut i dont wanna use all the packs b/c they are pretty stiff and arent that flexy...i dont want it too flexy since it sees alot of highway time goin to n from school(about 250 mi each way)....any help would be nice..since its sittin at my house on jackstands...n it NEEDS to be on the road like SOOOOOON...thanks

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