Author Topic: EGR issues. Need some help (Read 57386 times)

TNRabbit · « **Reply #30 on:** Aug 11, 2006, 05:53:10 AM »

I'm going to revive this by suggesting you pull the tube from the EGR that goes into the plenum & soak it in a can of Seafoam overnight. I pulled mine out while doing a clean-out of the entire TB/Plenum & it was FULL of black crap....

tintop · « **Reply #31 on:** Nov 09, 2006, 10:20:31 PM »

I have a Bad leak in my Stock exhuast manifold, I went over to a good yota friends house tonight, he is very much into hardcore crawling, And very knowlegdeable, He gave me a 22r Exhaust manifold, with the EGR ports on the manifold blocked,

He told me if i want my truck to run 10 times better, and cleaner to remove all the EGR hard lines from the exhaust manifold, and remove or tap off the vacuumm lines, and tap off 1 other things, one is on the side near the firewall, next to the Carb, and the other is on the other side, and Install the Manifold, and it should run way better...

correct me if i am wrong ? Has anyone removed everything, and ran a aftermarket header or a Tapped oem header/

Starfuel1 · « **Reply #32 on:** Nov 23, 2006, 11:00:40 PM »

I tossed my stock exhaust manifold, a long time ago. Having to be Calif. smog legal, I installed a set of headers from L.C. Engineering which are CARB approved for all 4 cylinder Toyotas 1999 and older. A quick trip to your local muffler shop (if needed) and your done. You'll notice the difference, right away. More power, better mileage. On your EGR problems, seems like each one is unique. Make sure you use MM vacuum hoses, not the fractional kind sold in every parts store. I have not seen this answer anywhere, so I will give you all, the magic bullet, as far as cleaning all that crud from the EGR plumbing system. I'm sure the suggestions about a chemical attack, work good, but if your like me, a good mechanical attack, is more satisfying. Get yourself an old speedometer cable, broken is fine, and clamp it tightly into a vise (no c-clamps or the like) put on a face shield and welding gloves and arm protection of some kind. Carefully cut it into about a 12" or 14" section, using a hand grinder w/a cutoff wheel, A Dremal tool will work, if you use a fiberglass reinforced cutting wheel. Be extreamly careful doing this, as your cutter will want to grab the individual strands of the cable while cutting. Cut it as close to the vise jaws, as you can. Torches don't work. After cutting the cable, have about 2" of the cable, sticking out from the vise jaws, and using a pair of pliers, fray the end of the cable, so that when your finished, it looks like a mini roto-rooter bit. Chuck up the good end in your drill motor, and you will be amazed how easily, it will follow the EGR passages, doing what roto-rooter bits do best. If need be, cut a longer piece, fray it, to get deeper inside those passages. Need More. Find a junk weed eater, as the drive shaft is a monster sized speedo cable, and does the same thing, in jumbo size. Baked Carbon does not stand a chance, using this method

snowrun · « **Reply #33 on:** Dec 07, 2006, 07:39:43 AM »

We don't have emissions testing in MT, can I remove EGR? Block-off plate for Head? Plug vacuum lines?
Thanks

46&2 · « **Reply #34 on:** Feb 28, 2007, 03:16:39 PM »

Hey guys. Ive read over this thread as well as a few others several times and im still not sure what my problem is. I have a 85 4runner with a 22RE. Basicaly, Ive always had a random idle, usualy when i start the engine it idles at 900, but after driving it likes to idle at 1200. Now, for the last few months, ive had a very intermittent idle fluctuation. When i start the truck it idles fine, but sometimes just sometimes, after driving for a while, the idle suddenly surges. It will go from 1200 rpms down to 700 or so and then back up, and so on when i put the truck in neutral. it will do this constantly until i give it gas and then it evens out and stops. doesnt do it all the time, only every few days.

Before I smogged my truck, i replaced the EGR valve. when I went in to have it smogged, I passed but the tech told me that my EGR wasnt functioning properly, that it was opening too soon.

Ive been reading that i should block off my EGR all together since I Just smogged it and EGRS are aparently a big waste past emissions. So i just blocked off the egr and hose. drove around the block and it didnt do the fluctuating idle, but its impossible for me to know because sometimes i go weeks without it doing that. Also, i was considering disconnecting and plugging the Modulator as well. Now I am assuming that the hose i want to block off is the one that comes off of the modulator on the EGR side. the side of the modulator with only one port. the other side has several more hoses running out of it.

So with all the information floating around Im just wondering, should I block off just the modulator, or should i block off both the modulator and the EGR valve? I tried both and with the engine running it didnt seem to affect anything that i could tell. I guess the only way to find out is to drive it around for a while like that and see what happens. Any ideas??

fordh8r · « **Reply #35 on:** Feb 28, 2007, 06:45:56 PM »

If you block off or render the EGR useless you not only might improve your drivability you also run the risk of having all the passages plug up from non-use

. So when you go smog it again you'll have to remove everything to clean it out to make it operable in order to pass smog ($$$)

. ''How much difference will it make?'', you ask. With the EGR inoperable it will show high NOX emissions and gauranteed ''fail''. With the age of your vehicle they will physically have to test it and they will find the modified component. So, "fix it or bypass it?",

that's up to you. Either way, you could be in for a hassle only one will be right and be no further hassle and the other...not so much. Don't forget the EGR reduces NOX emissions by lowering combustion temps and can actually help an engine run cooler. I'm sure you see the benifit in that.

46&2 · « **Reply #36 on:** Mar 01, 2007, 12:57:05 AM »

Yeah, I was just trying to figure out of the EGR or modulator had anything to do with my fluctuating idle problem, or why it opens prematurely.. i havnt been able to figure that out.

GrimReaper · « **Reply #37 on:** Apr 08, 2007, 11:02:59 AM »

Quote from: fortysixandtwo on Mar 01, 2007, 12:57:05 AM

Yeah, I was just trying to figure out of the EGR or modulator had anything to do with my fluctuating idle problem, or why it opens prematurely.. i havnt been able to figure that out.

Get it hot and set your idle to 800 rpm. If you notice the surging idle only happens when you hit the brakes. With a Idle speed over 850 it causes a conflict in the ECM.

KW · « **Reply #38 on:** Apr 08, 2007, 11:26:30 PM »

The EGR only works at PARTIAL throttle. To check operation, get a vacuum guage with a long hose and tape it to the windshield. Tee it into the hose where it goes into the EGR. NOTE: it only takes a few inches of vacuum to get the EGR to crack open. When you come to a stop or let off the throttle, it needs to show NO vacuum. This would have shown up on YOguyDA's. I have run across this on many different makes/models of vehicles, mostly asian. The EGR modulators will keep triggering just enough vacuum to pull the EGR pintle off it's seat and make the engine run crappy. Even had a TBI chevy V8 with a bad computer that turned on the EGR at the wierdest times.

NT-OUTBACK · « **Reply #39 on:** Apr 25, 2007, 11:55:21 PM »

KW · « **Reply #40 on:** Apr 29, 2007, 01:26:28 AM »

As long as it stumbles the engine when you apply vacuum, and passes smog, I'd leave it alone.

royota85r · « **Reply #41 on:** May 09, 2007, 08:23:56 PM »

Two things I've noticed with my 85 runner. (EFI) My air bleed screw (flat headed screw on top of throttle plate) likes to work it's way in (closing) and when it does it starts to surge. my runner had factory cruise control and before I bought it someone destroyed some of my cruise components. in the process most of my egr stuff got messed up. My modulator was bad and the block was all carboned up. Once I cleaned the block and replaced the modulator it almost Idles right. (still missing Cruise parts) so I believe you may have the same problem as our carburated friend. Hope this helps

46&2 · « **Reply #42 on:** May 09, 2007, 10:14:36 PM »

Yeah I figured out that as long as my truck idles at 1100 RPMS or less the idle doesnt surge when applying the brakes.

Aaron91tt · « **Reply #43 on:** May 13, 2007, 08:24:19 PM »

my truck is failing with NOX at 2600 at both speeds. its passing everything else. I did all the vacuum tests according to the FSM and other tips on this thread to the egr, egr modulator, etc, and everything has checked out so far. I also just took the egr and egr modulator off and blew threw them to make sure they weren't clogged. And all the lines and tubes.
How much vacuum should port R on the throttle body make? My port E makes around 20-25 when around 3,000 rpms. But my port R makes around 1-5 at best. Also how much pressure should be coming out the vacuum line attached to the exhaust side of the egr? Mine bounces around 1-2 psi at idle and thats it. it doesn't go up or down when you give it gas.
I rebuilt the entire engine (block,head) about 3k miles ago. 33 inch tires with stock gears.

toy4xchris · « **Reply #44 on:** May 22, 2007, 03:53:01 AM »

I had a problem with the egr on 2 of my trucks so far and it turned out that it was clogged up with carbon I looked into the price to replace it and well I am poor so that wouldnt work found out that you can punch out the carbon with a paper clip and well they passed smog with flying colors after that. hope that can help someone out.

toy4crawlin · « **Reply #45 on:** May 30, 2007, 11:18:31 AM »

I have been trying to pass smog since March. 4 fails

Make sure the EGR is working correctly, not blocked up
good idea to change your 02

New fuel filter $30
new gas

Turned out to be a bad Cat :

NOPE NOT that IT was MY EGR

It's been a long process for me

THK Matt · « **Reply #46 on:** Aug 03, 2007, 02:15:06 AM »

i have a question......, since ytou guys are talking EGR and PCV.

do they play a part in performance in engine on an 87 RE? or just for SMOG?

will my engine run cleaner or better without either or without both?
ive heard small rumors that it does....
CLARIFY?

THK Matt · « **Reply #47 on:** Aug 03, 2007, 02:21:51 AM »

and by the way, i live in Idaho.... its a washington truck.... never SMOGED.

fordh8r · « **Reply #48 on:** Aug 03, 2007, 09:22:45 AM »

Quote from: ToyRider.87 on Aug 03, 2007, 02:15:06 AM

i have a question......, since ytou guys are talking EGR and PCV.

do they play a part in performance in engine on an 87 RE? or just for SMOG?

will my engine run cleaner or better without either or without both?
ive heard small rumors that it does....
CLARIFY?

Whatever you do DO NOT modify your PCV system unless you're putting vented caps on your valve cover. If the crankcase is sealed you could have all kinds of problems ranging from minor to major oils leaks and even the possibility of explosion from the blowby gases trapped in the crankcase. Given the mechanical nature of the rings, no matter how good your compression is, the rings are never able to seal 100% especially in stock form.

Quote from: fordh8r on Feb 28, 2007, 06:45:56 PM

If you block off or render the EGR useless you not only might improve your drivability you also run the risk of having all the passages plug up from non-use . So when you go smog it again you'll have to remove everything to clean it out to make it operable in order to pass smog ($$$) . ''How much difference will it make?'', you ask. With the EGR inoperable it will show high NOX emissions and gauranteed ''fail''. With the age of your vehicle they will physically have to test it and they will find the modified component. So, "fix it or bypass it?", that's up to you. Either way, you could be in for a hassle only one will be right and be no further hassle and the other...not so much. Don't forget the EGR reduces NOX emissions by lowering combustion temps and can actually help an engine run cooler. I'm sure you see the benifit in that.

A little more info for you. There may be other stuff in this thread that may answer your question as well. I encourage you to read it closely. I hope this helps.

Yota4life · « **Reply #49 on:** Aug 20, 2007, 11:54:26 AM »

I tested my EGR today by applying vacuum and the fsm says if it is working correctly the motor should stall. My motor just stumbled badly but would not stall. Does that mean the egr isent working correctly? Needs to be replaced or cleaned?

lucky7 · « **Reply #50 on:** Mar 12, 2008, 07:52:53 PM »

Did anyone figure this out .

shmedly · « **Reply #51 on:** Mar 30, 2009, 05:44:41 AM »

I checked my EGR Valve it works good. The test's on the vacuum mod / BVSV have me a little concerned..

The cold check @ 3500 rpm's the BVSV is ok "0" inches of vacuum. (GOOD)

The Hot check is "0" inches of vacuum at 3500 rpm's, it should have low vacuum. (BAD)

When I connected the modulator to direct vacuum the vacuum gauge should have high vacuum, I show "0". (BAD)

The "cold" blow test of the BVSV, the air blows from port "J" to the top filter,, just not easy.. (?)

The "hot" blow test of the BVSV, the air blows from port "J" to the top vacuum port "K" (GOOD)

The vacuum modulator test with the motor hot, (I don't think this hot /cold here matters) Plugging the ports "P" & "R" blowing air into port "Q" the air won't pass thru easily (the FSM said it should blow "freely"to the filter side) (BAD)
(I changed out the filter media to a foam pre-filter from a dirt bike) the original was pretty tore up.

Is there any advise on what there is to do? The main issue is the damn intermittent miss at idle! And I've changed about everything!

THK Matt · « **Reply #52 on:** Mar 30, 2009, 06:46:57 AM »

Quote from: ThatIDAHOKid on Aug 03, 2007, 02:15:06 AM

i have a question......, since ytou guys are talking EGR and PCV.

do they play a part in performance in engine on an 87 RE? or just for SMOG?

will my engine run cleaner or better without either or without both?
ive heard small rumors that it does....
CLARIFY?

Quote from: fordh8r on Aug 03, 2007, 09:22:45 AM

Whatever you do DO NOT modify your PCV system unless you're putting vented caps on your valve cover. If the crankcase is sealed you could have all kinds of problems ranging from minor to major oils leaks and even the possibility of explosion from the blowby gases trapped in the crankcase. Given the mechanical nature of the rings, no matter how good your compression is, the rings are never able to seal 100% especially in stock form.

okay so getting/making these would eliminate that?
http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGear/ProductDetails.aspx?PartUniqueID=77AC51CA-444E-460A-B5F6-23409DA05DC0
http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGear/ProductDetails.aspx?PartUniqueID=A892DE49-4C26-45C6-9A84-D715971CF42D

shmedly · « **Reply #53 on:** Apr 03, 2009, 09:05:48 PM »

Quote from: shmedly on Mar 30, 2009, 05:44:41 AM

I checked my EGR Valve it works good. The test's on the vacuum mod / BVSV have me a little concerned..

The cold check @ 3500 rpm's the BVSV is ok "0" inches of vacuum. (GOOD)

The Hot check is "0" inches of vacuum at 3500 rpm's, it should have low vacuum. (BAD)

When I connected the modulator to direct vacuum the vacuum gauge should have high vacuum, I show "0". (BAD)

The "cold" blow test of the BVSV, the air blows from port "J" to the top filter,, just not easy.. (?)

The "hot" blow test of the BVSV, the air blows from port "J" to the top vacuum port "K" (GOOD)

The vacuum modulator test with the motor hot, (I don't think this hot /cold here matters) Plugging the ports "P" & "R" blowing air into port "Q" the air won't pass thru easily (the FSM said it should blow "freely"to the filter side) (BAD)
(I changed out the filter media to a foam pre-filter from a dirt bike) the original was pretty tore up.

Is there any advise on what there is to do? The main issue is the damn intermittent miss at idle! And I've changed about everything!

Any insight.. ?

Yota4life · « **Reply #54 on:** Jan 16, 2010, 01:35:58 PM »

Quote

I tested my EGR today by applying vacuum and the fsm says if it is working correctly the motor should stall. My motor just stumbled badly but would not stall. Does that mean the egr isent working correctly? Needs to be replaced or cleaned?

Update: Im trying to smog now and it failed horribly on the NO test. Does this sound like a bad egr?

emsvitil · « **Reply #55 on:** Jan 16, 2010, 02:33:23 PM »

Stock exhaust or have you replaced it?

The EGR valve needs some backpressure to work correctly..............

Yota4life · « **Reply #56 on:** Jan 16, 2010, 04:12:31 PM »

i have a header with 2.25" exhaust and a flowmaster with a magnaflow cat.

emsvitil · « **Reply #57 on:** Jan 16, 2010, 05:29:04 PM »

Temporarily add backpressure.

Get a piece of sheet metal and make a gasket with a hole 1" diameter in it (or a bunch of smaller holes ( 16 .25" holes). Put it behind cat converter

Make sure cat is good and hot before test. Don't turn engine off while waiting.

Yota4life · « **Reply #58 on:** Jan 16, 2010, 08:52:17 PM »

sounds like a good idea but my cat is welded on haha... maybe i will by some flanges so i can bolt it on and do this. Thanks

emsvitil · « **Reply #59 on:** Jan 16, 2010, 09:02:19 PM »

Got Potato?

GrimReaper [OP]

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