Topic: The wait is over! Now need to install.

[knucklebuster]

And a set of gear wrenches! Man those are awesome! really you only need a 10mm 12mm 14mm

[kneedownnate]

Agreed, and definitely a necessity when doing it for a living and under the gun, especially when drunk and increasingly irritated folks are standing over you reminding you that you're "ruining" their vacation.  Loved working at the lake and playing with boats, but the clientele will drive you nanners, if management hasn't already

[Cheesemaker]

Agreed, and definitely a necessity when doing it for a living and under the gun, especially when drunk and increasingly irritated folks are standing over you reminding you that you're "ruining" their vacation.  Loved working at the lake and playing with boats, but the clientele will drive you nanners, if management hasn't already

I remember all the crap you dealt with, and how everything that was/went wrong was your fault.  And IIRC that also came from management too. 

[Cheesemaker]

Another life saver, is muffin tins for bolts and nuts.  I use tuna cans. 

If you have smaller tires already on wheels, put them on, gets the fender lower.  Or let the air out of the front tires.  Or good solid step stools.  Alot of local buddies have been buying these from HF.  http://www.harborfreight.com/step-stool-working-platform-66911.html

Plus I would buy all new hoses, and new bolts for mounting the coolant lines, intake and anything else.  30+ year old bolts tend to stretch.  And old hoses that are soaked with oil, will expand and leak. 

[Gnarly4X]

And a set of gear wrenches! Man those are awesome! really you only need a 10mm 12mm 14mm

Hmmmm..... interesting.  I have a couple gear wrenches.  I tried them once way back in my past.  I found that working my Toy engines there was never enough room around the nut or the bolt head to get the gear wrench on it?

My dad was an auto mechanic, back then he didn't have those fancy tools.  He used a couple speedy wrenches as often as he could.  I don't even own a speedy wrench, but I've watched a couple guys use them, and say they like them.

I use my air tools all the time. 

Gnarls.

[Cavu2usf]

Love seeing pics of sparkling new engines.

 
Steve

[Toybrota]

If I'm not mistaken, it looks like you are still running the smog pump, why is that? Stupid California laws?

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[kneedownnate]

Hmmmm..... interesting.  I have a couple gear wrenches.  I tried them once way back in my past.  I found that working my Toy engines there was never enough room around the nut or the bolt head to get the gear wrench on it?

I'd hafta assume you're using the old coarse spline style, not gear wrench brand, craftsman, or mac/matco/snapon, all of which have very fine splines and require very little room to use.  They're sometimes a waste, but more often than not are a god-send

[Hickory Nut [OP]]

I am going to make a trip to Harbor Fright tomorrow after work to get a Work Light, Cherry Picker, Engine Stand, 3/8" Extension Set, Metric Ratchet Wrenches, 3/8" Wobbly, and Foot Stool. I ordered all new coolant hoses, bolt kits, fuel pump, Injectors & seals from 22RE and that should be in this week. All the Belts and vacuum hoses are new. I guess that's it.

I figure me doing the swap myself, even buying all this I would still come out ahead and get experience of working on the truck. I am actually excited about trying to tackle this project. I will keep everyone posted on the progress. Thanks again to everyone that has replied.

[Cheesemaker]

Don't be afraid to post up if you have any issues.  We all have been there.  I had a bunch of guys tell me that they would all help with swapping my motor.  They all flaked out.  And I did it all by myself.  With no prior experience.  Its not hard.  Just a learning curve. 

Make sure you download a FSM.  It has all the important info like torque.

[Gnarly4X]

I am going to make a trip to Harbor Fright tomorrow ...

Someone suggested a great idea to buy or use 2 engine stands for doing a swap.  I did a rebuild, so I wasn't "swapping" parts, but if I was doing a swap, like you, knowing what I know now.... I'd definitely buy 2 engine stands!

Gnarls.

[Hickory Nut [OP]]

Like Cheesemaker said everybody that said they would help or has had experience with changing motors has backed out or don't have time now. So after I get all my tools and parts together I will start the project. The engine stands are not that much so I will get two if it will make the job easier.

[Cavu2usf]

If I'm not mistaken, it looks like you are still running the smog pump, why is that? Stupid California laws?
Toybrota, if I had my way, every once of that Smog Crap would have been in the scrap-metal bin years ago. 1975 and on; you get a Smog Check (AND PASS), or you don't get tags. Mf'ers! 

[Cheesemaker]

I used one engine stand, and a old spare tire/wheel.  Worked just fine. 

[redneckcustoms13]

If you already have one engine on the hoist. You can get most the parts off of it in the air. Then flop him on the ground and get the rest.

[Toybrota]

Damn, smog laws in Utah are chill, I feel bad for Californians. I don't even have to do emissions!

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[Gnarly4X]

If you already have one engine on the hoist. You can get most the parts off of it in the air. Then flop him on the ground and get the rest.

If you flop your engine to get the parts off... YOU... must be a "redneck".... according to Jeff Foxworthy!

Gnarls.

[redneckcustoms13]

I suppose so 

[OVRAROK]

Damn, smog laws in Utah are chill, I feel bad for Californians. I don't even have to do emissions!

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Only some parts of California, I live in smog exempt area.

[Gnarly4X]

If you already have one engine on the hoist. You can get most the parts off of it in the air. Then flop him on the ground and get the rest.

Although "parts off in the air" method will probably work, after "man-handling" my engine, on and off of the Harbor Freight engine stand, it was still a little tricky.  I would definitely NOT attempt to man-handle the engine without an engine stand to assemble the bottom end, or more importantly, the top-end and other bolt-on parts!

Even with a pre-built long block, there is still lots of work to install the remaining parts.

The shop crane was VERY handy for moving the tranny and t-case as well.  Buying the shop crane from Harbor Freight is less expensive than trying to rent one and transporting it back and forth!

Gnarls.

[Toybrota]

Harbor freight is great, their tools may break a lot, but at least they are cheap.

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[Hickory Nut [OP]]

Well I took off work today to start the Engine Pull and let me say it's going well. I had some trouble with the PS brackets but eventually found the right ones to take out. I have been working on the two b*std bolts on the top of the bell housing. I got the passenger one off but the driver side is being a pain. Anyway I am 6 hours in in feel pretty good so far.

[Gnarly4X]

... I have been working on the two b*std bolts on the top of the bell housing. I got the passenger one off but the driver side is being a pain. Anyway I am 6 hours in in feel pretty good so far.

Everyone has their tricks and methods…  Here’s what I do….

On the bellhousing….I use 2 10” and 1 6” ˝” extensions, and my air impact tool.  You could use an 18” 1/2 drive flex handle if you don't have air tools.  I lower the tranny and t-case to get more room around the bellhousing.  Mine had two smaller bolts going in to the bell housing from the engine side.

Before you pull the tranny input shaft out of the pressure plate, be sure to support the back of the engine AND the tranny/t-case.  I can't imagine doing this now without a tranny jack from Harbor Freight.

The power steering bracket was WAY more of a challenge than it should be, and going back on had me scratching my head!

Thanks for the update!

Gnarls.

[Hickory Nut [OP]]

I finally got both of them off. Starter, slave cylinder, and fuel pump then try to jack it out of the truck.

 

[Snowtoy]

When you go to install the engine, unbolting and lifting one side of the cab a few inches will allow for easier access to the upper bolts.

[Gnarly4X]

When you go to install the engine, unbolting and lifting one side of the cab a few inches will allow for easier access to the upper bolts.

There's no reason to go the trouble of unbolting the cab.  You have to lower the angle of the transmission t-case anyway.  Unbolting the cab mounting on a 32 year old truck is something I would NOT do to pull or re-install the engine.

But... I guess whatever works for you.

Gnarls.

[kneedownnate]

Harbor freight is great, their tools may break a lot, but at least they are cheap.

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I live maybe 1/10th of a mile from them and still won't waste my money on their tools if it may break or leave me stranded, only if it is way overkill or is one of their better built tools.  May be a leftover trait from when I made my living with my tools, though

[knucklebuster]

Everyone has their tricks and methods…  Here’s what I do….

On the bellhousing….I use 2 10” and 1 6” ˝” extensions, and my air impact tool.  You could use an 18” 1/2 drive flex handle if you don't have air tools.  I lower the tranny and t-case to get more room around the bellhousing.  Mine had two smaller bolts going in to the bell housing from the engine side.

Before you pull the tranny input shaft out of the pressure plate, be sure to support the back of the engine AND the tranny/t-case.  I can't imagine doing this now without a tranny jack from Harbor Freight.

The power steering bracket was WAY more of a challenge than it should be, and going back on had me scratching my head!

Thanks for the update!

Gnarls.

I bought a couple cheap 2 foot 3/8ths extensions makes it pretty easy with lots of room, you will twist em a bit after a few transmissions. Autos are a whole different story they just suck, dropping the trans helps.

Take lots of pictures for referance! It really helped that I had a extra motor sitting next to the one I was installing and another toyota to look at.

[Cheesemaker]

Gear wrench is what saved my sanity on the bell housing bolts.  And pulling the intake off first too, makes things easy.  Don't forget to support the bell housing before you pull the motor.  Tranny jack would be nice, but I used a floor jack and blocks.

Yeah, the power steering can be a pain.  Especially, once you realize you have to pull the pulley to get to some bolts. 

[Gnarly4X]

Gear wrench is what saved my sanity on the bell housing bolts.  And pulling the intake off first too, makes things easy.  Don't forget to support the bell housing before you pull the motor.  Tranny jack would be nice, but I used a floor jack and blocks.

Yeah, the power steering can be a pain.  Especially, once you realize you have to pull the pulley to get to some bolts. 

Gear wrench.... How in the heck do you get a gear wrench on the bellhousing bolts? 

On my 1986 22RE, XtraCab, 5-speed - I did not have to remove the big pulley on the power steering pump. 

Gnarls.