Author Topic: NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!! (Read 19646 times)

jangelfire · « **Reply #30 on:** Apr 15, 2015, 01:13:27 PM »

Quote from: H8PVMNT on Apr 15, 2015, 12:07:57 PM

My advice would be to just run 35s but then again I'm old...

Anyway 35s seem to be the line between having to spend a whole lot more money on a front end vs. just a basic upgraded birf & hi-steer setup. I don't get on slick rock but we have done a bunch of rock crawl comps over the years and this theory comes from what we have seen there.

I actually have a buddy who has run 37s and bigger for years and he is going back to 35s because he and I can always take the same lines and he is looking for max dependability.

My whole group runs 40"+ tires so i dont think downsizing is in my best interest if i wanna follow them around but i totally agree with what your saying.im gonna try and beef this thing up and go wheel!

blackdiamond · « **Reply #31 on:** Apr 15, 2015, 03:56:28 PM »

Quote from: jangelfire on Apr 15, 2015, 01:02:52 PM

Honestly no.and by no, i mean i cant remember.in the last nine months ive had nearly every bolt out of this truck

Loose nuts on those studs is a mortal sin if I am well informed. I never tighten mine though I probably should try it sometime...

jssgbsn · « **Reply #32 on:** Apr 15, 2015, 05:29:41 PM »

ARP Studs first.
Longfield axles w/Spare Birf second.
Air Locker third.

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #33 on:** Apr 15, 2015, 05:33:22 PM »

Quote from: jangelfire on Apr 15, 2015, 01:13:27 PM

My whole group runs 40"+ tires so i dont think downsizing is in my best interest if i wanna follow them around but i totally agree with what your saying.im gonna try and beef this thing up and go wheel!

Like I said, I'm old...

jangelfire · « **Reply #34 on:** Apr 15, 2015, 05:40:03 PM »

Quote from: jssgbsn on Apr 15, 2015, 05:29:41 PM

ARP Studs first.
Longfield axles w/Spare Birf second.
Air Locker third.

That is my plan with the addition of combining the two extra studs like in the pics i posted.i think that outta make it a fairly bomber setup.might have to wait a little bit on the arb but i gots the dough for the rest now.thanx again guys

jssgbsn · « **Reply #35 on:** Apr 15, 2015, 05:43:11 PM »

I havent done a 5th or 6th stud set-up.

Nothing wrong with overkill though

jangelfire · « **Reply #36 on:** Apr 15, 2015, 07:00:43 PM »

I like overkill!!! But seems like you have to do it on everything.i wanna wheel, all i do is work on this thing but getting it dialed in now i think

1985CRAWLER · « **Reply #37 on:** Apr 15, 2015, 10:54:06 PM »

Quote from: jangelfire on Apr 15, 2015, 07:00:43 PM

I like overkill!!! But seems like you have to do it on everything.i wanna wheel, all i do is work on this thing but getting it dialed in now i think

yea wrench,wheel ,wreck ,repeat....

do arps and a 5th stud and upgrade to arp hub studs too. use what u already have, unless u have the $ dont cash out for the 6 shooters when u can use scrap steel and make a 5th stud and brace the bottom of the arm to the steering stop.

ive ran 37s and been locked up front with stock studs for awhile and have railed the truck pretty good and havent broke them yet, i check torque on studs before,during,and after the trip, only takes a few minutes.

but ive also sheared them off before with 35s and an open front, that was back when i never checked the torque at all for months.

Nation · « **Reply #38 on:** Apr 15, 2015, 11:17:40 PM »

Yeah, 85 got me checking the hubs/ studs everytime. Even in between a longer wheeling trip.. They're loose every single time

Snowtoy · « **Reply #39 on:** Apr 16, 2015, 12:11:17 PM »

Quote from: jangelfire on Apr 14, 2015, 03:58:18 PM

all my wheeling buddies are on tons and wont stop with the whole "DANA 60" horse crap.

Quote from: jangelfire on Apr 15, 2015, 01:13:27 PM

My whole group runs 40"+ tires so i dont think downsizing is in my best interest if i wanna follow them around but i totally agree with what your saying.im gonna try and beef this thing up and go wheel!

That is due to them buying their wheeling skills rather than earning them wheeling a stock/near stock rig, and feeling like you have to keep up with them when wheeling, reinforces "the bought not earned" label. 95% of the trails out there were all being run 30yrs ago with 31 and 33" tires with open diffs and one t-case. For most of us old school wheelers, the general rule of thumb is, the larger the tire, the lower the skill level of the driver.

When wheeling with someone new, or running smaller tires, you are supposed to run trails they can handle, or at the same speed the smaller tire rig is traveling. Sure it takes longer, or might not be as fun, but if they had ever wheeled a stock rig, they wouldn't be complaining.

Based on your stated driving style, drivetrain set-up, and tire size, there is no reason why the Toyota axle can't hold up, once you have either upgraded or replaced the 30yr old components. Based on your current budget, I would buy an ARB for the front axle, and carry the spares from the axle you just bought until you can upgrade the components. IMO, there is no need to wheel w/locked front and rear axles all the time, it makes tight turns all but impossible, you get pushed around a lot, not to mention the added stress it puts on drivetrain components.

jangelfire · « **Reply #40 on:** Apr 16, 2015, 01:34:56 PM »

^^^ good point! As far as the locked front, i get out and unlock it which is a pain in the butt and i will have an arb by the end of summer.for rite now im going to put in arp studs and rcv axles and keep saving for the selectable.im soooo close to the correct setup, i think.

As far as my wheeling buddies opinions, the point they are trying to get across to me is, in the end ill have a rig on tons so why waste money on a yota axle.non of these guys have ever own a toyota so wtf do they know? LOL

jangelfire · « **Reply #41 on:** Apr 20, 2015, 10:57:47 AM »

Finally got the guy down on his price and went and picked up the built axle.here she is

jangelfire · « **Reply #42 on:** Apr 20, 2015, 10:58:43 AM »

Gonna start tearing it down after work

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #43 on:** Apr 20, 2015, 10:59:50 AM »

That should help!

jangelfire · « **Reply #44 on:** Apr 21, 2015, 06:42:32 PM »

Underway!!!

84Flatbed · « **Reply #45 on:** Apr 21, 2015, 08:47:19 PM »

Ha ha, that looks like a really nice shop to have stumps for jack stands. I wish I had a space like that, be alot more motivated that's for sure.

zippo · « **Reply #46 on:** Apr 21, 2015, 08:49:28 PM »

x2 nice looking shop. Good lucking cutting all that, what ever it is off.

jangelfire · « **Reply #47 on:** Apr 22, 2015, 02:28:57 AM »

Just stealing the guts.and the log jackstands on the sliders are the only way i feel safe under my truck.ive tried jackstands and other ways.with the front axle out, theres not really a safe way to do it and have full access to the front under guts.sooooo yeah, might be redneck but it wont fall on me.its solid.flame on!

jssgbsn · « **Reply #48 on:** Apr 22, 2015, 05:39:22 AM »

I like the stumps for stands. Been trying to think of a similar solution. I usually just use regular stands. hasnt fallen on me.....yet.

Was thinking of using several railroad ties cut and stacked, but using some beefy logs looks easier and more safe.

slander · « **Reply #49 on:** Apr 22, 2015, 12:26:32 PM »

I was going to say that ditching the front Lincoln locker may help and get even an auto lunchbox locker. I hear ya on the tire size, im in an IFS taco on 33s following around guys with solid axles and 37s. I'm preparing to axle swap this winter, and they were all saying they are going to need to learn how to drive if i was following them around on my 33s, they wont be able to keep up once i have a real front axle and tires LOL.

I think I'm still going to only upgrade to 35's or 36s because I'm a cheap b*std, and want to keep stuff difficult LOL.

This whole one ton craze is getting annoying, i wheeled with another group that have tons and they spend more time wrenching on the same obstacles than me or my other group of friends that are still on toyota axles.

jangelfire · « **Reply #50 on:** Apr 23, 2015, 11:05:53 PM »

Heres a question, were the longfields different back when they first came out? Heres a what im talkin bout.

One was in my truck, the shiney one with longer splines was in the axle i bought.both 30spline

blackdiamond · « **Reply #51 on:** Apr 24, 2015, 06:03:57 AM »

I was told recently that when Bobby Long died TG bought out the Longfield name but uses a different manufacturer. It seems that RCV axles are made by the original manufacturer and are closer to the original product. I can't say anything about the quality of either product, but know my original 30 splines are working great.

slander · « **Reply #52 on:** Apr 24, 2015, 09:27:19 AM »

RCV was the manufacturer of the products Bobby Long sold.

toyodaaddict · « **Reply #53 on:** Apr 24, 2015, 10:02:39 AM »

Longfields have gone through a lot of changes since the beginning. I believe the first ones where just heat treated stockers with a ring welded to the bell. Or maybe the heat treatment even came later on? The one on the left looks like the ones Iv'e got from Bobby and Tina in more recent years. To my untrained eye the one on the right just looks like a stock birf ?
On a side note, I seem to recall Bobby saying that drilling the birf for a grease fitting was not a good idea. I see TG and RCV are now doing just that

jangelfire · « **Reply #54 on:** Apr 24, 2015, 10:45:22 AM »

The one on the right is 30 spline also tho.thought stockers were 27

toyodaaddict · « **Reply #55 on:** Apr 24, 2015, 11:50:46 AM »

Where are you counting the splines? Did you separate the birf from the inner shaft? Are the inner axle splines on the end that slides into the birf 30 spline?

stock Birfields are 30 spline at the hub, and the inner axles are 27-spline at the Birfield end and 30-spline at the differential end. 30 spline Longs are 30 spline at all three points.

Also I've never seen Longfields that didnt either say Longfield or have LF stamped on them.

jangelfire · « **Reply #56 on:** Apr 24, 2015, 01:32:22 PM »

Youre right.my bad

blackdiamond · « **Reply #57 on:** Apr 24, 2015, 09:14:52 PM »

Just for giggles, lets see if I can get a few pictures to post.

The first one is what my Longfields looked like when I picked them up from Bobby Long's house around the 2006 timeframe. The second is from the RCV website showing the current product which looks pretty nearly identical with the exception of the grease fitting. The third is the currently branded Longfield product offered by TG, these are clearly not the same product.

blackdiamond · « **Reply #58 on:** Apr 24, 2015, 09:27:05 PM »

Quote from: blackdiamond on Apr 24, 2015, 09:14:52 PM

Just for giggles, lets see if I can get a few pictures to post.

The first one is what my Longfields looked like when I picked them up from Bobby Long's house around the 2006 timeframe. The second is from the RCV website showing the current product which looks pretty nearly identical with the exception of the grease fitting. The third is the currently branded Longfield product offered by TG, these are clearly not the same product.

On a better look at the TG website their product does actually look pretty close to the original Longfield. The main obvious difference is the TG version has a 4340 chromoly internals while the RCV has the old 300M internals which is a stronger material. Not sure either are likely to break though. RCV offers a black oxide coating standard with nickel plating as an upgrade. It almost looks like the TG axles have a nickel coating from the pictures.

jangelfire · « **Reply #59 on:** Apr 24, 2015, 09:37:34 PM »

Wtf??? Now im confused.mine look like the gun drilled.guess ill see if a zerk fits in it tommorrow.maybe my eyes are just fawked!

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