Topic: before I begin the front axle rebuild... tons of pinion slack and wobble

[55reasons]

any idea what may have caused this and what else I should order ahead of time to cut down the "waiting for more parts" game once the axle is completely torn down?

Just a bad pinion seal, you think?

(83 front axle)

[toyodaaddict]

I'd say say your pinion bearing is shot at the very least, if your pinion 'wobbles'. Alot of times a  leaking pinion seal on a stock diff can be indicator that the pinion bearing is on its way out.  If its an untampered with stock diff Id just replace the whole thing because theyre cheap or consider it a good excuse to regear. If your going to work on this diff it seem like it would be best to use a full setup kit, solid spacer and do it right. watch out for high mileage flanges, over time the seal will actually wear a grove into the flange sometimes making it impossible to get a new seal to take. If you run into that you can try sanding it down or just get a new flange.

[55reasons [OP]]

Well, you were right.

I would post pics of what it looks like, but I don't have my mandatory 9 posts yet.

In any event, I see that ordering a stock open diff from marlin is crazy expensive.

I am running 33's all the way around, and as far as I know, the rear end is the stock 93 4-runner.

Can you recommend a part (or kit) as well as any other "good to have's" to get this thing back on the road like QUICK?

It's D.O.A, with the front axle laying on the ground and the carrier in the solvent tank and the auto hobby shop on Marine Corps Base Quantico is charging me $50 a day for it to sit there while I scratch my head.

[TheChewMaster]

take it to a deferential shop and have them diagnose and fix the issue.

purchasing a new deferential is going to be expensive no matter who you get it though. Its a number of man hours and all new housings, bearing, gears, ect. So for a new one expect at least 700 for a simple open diff.

You can also get the whole axle put back together, and as long as you don't use 4wd you should be able to move the rig out of the $50 a day spot.

You could always get a set up kit https://www.marlincrawler.com/differential/setup-kit/sk-hilux/toyota-8-4cyl-usa-standard

but I'm not nearly convinced that you have the skills to do this kind of a set up, which is why I mention taking it to a differential guy.

[toyodaaddict]

if its a stock diff you should have no problem finding a used replacement in the $50-$100 range, assuming its not a stock 4.88. Use the gear code to find what gears you have. the code can be found either in the engine compartment or the door jam.  You can also use the paint code on the end of the pinion. try cl or the wanted section here to find a used diff

[toyodaaddict]

 Is this a front IFS diff or a rear 8'' diff ?

[55reasons [OP]]

I know how this sounds, but I actually HAVE been building things (from the ground up) for many years.
The difference is almost all of it was about being LOW or being FAST through the sand.  All of which have nothing in common with straight axles.
I'm not a rock crawler by trade, but differentials are not new to me.
So I believe that I DO have the skills to do it, but what I don't have is the TIME right now.

Marlin has been "out of stock" on a lot of the hardware for a complete axle rebuild for quite a while now, so I'm trying to find other suppliers that can get me the other small parts I need as well.

Thanks for the recommendations.

No it's not an IFS.  It's a 93 4Runner with an 84 SAS in it.

[TheChewMaster]

What service parts are you on the hunt for? I'm sure we can point ya in the right direction

[55reasons [OP]]

What service parts are you on the hunt for? I'm sure we can point ya in the right direction

Mainly the upper knuckle stud kit:  https://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/front-axle-parts/front-hardware/hardware-front-hilux/12mm-upper-knuckle-stud-kit
and
The 8mm hub stud kit:  https://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/front-axle-parts/front-hardware/hardware-front-hilux/8mm-hub-stud-kit


I got the axle completely torn down today.  Fabricated new turning stops and a new beefier steering stabilizer mount.  Got all the welding done, soaked it in the solvent tank for a couple hours, flushed it out, and just dropped it off at the powdercoater.

I have a rush order on the Yukon diff rebuild kit, so hopefully that will arrive on Saturday and I can at least get started on piecing it back together.


QUESTION.......

The caster shims that were between the axle and the springs.   Mine are about 1/4 thick (wedge obviously).  Does that seem about right for this application?  They are completely wasted (rusting REAL BAD, and before I make a new set, do you think those were the right ones or is there a reference and a parts supplier for those that I can double-check?

[84Flatbed]

I believe the proper castor shims are dependent on your setup and what your castor is without them.

[TheChewMaster]

Ok ok.

Well you really want these, IMHO they are the best studs on the market
http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=44

http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=58

[TheChewMaster]

I guess this is probably a better option

http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=145

[55reasons [OP]]

Still furiously waiting for my parts from Marlin that I paid for SECOND day shipping on.  Ordered on a Thursday, first delivery attempt was on a Monday.  That was a total waste of extra money for shipping.
They elected to REQUIRE a signature upon delivery, so there's no way I can get them as I would have to take a day off work to wait for the FEDEX driver to show up so I can sign for the parts.

Just the shipping problem alone has already cost me $250.00 in shop fees for the truck to sit there while I chase a FEDEX driver around trying to get something that I should have had in my hand 5 days ago if the driver could have left it at my door.

Super irritating.

Those studs from front range..... Do they have the E12 heads on then so they can be properly torqued or is there an allen head on them or something?  The photo doesn't show the heads on them.  And that kit doesn't appear to include the cone washers either?   @ $3.09 per washer?

[55reasons [OP]]

Post #9 so that I can at least start putting up a photo to illustrate what's going on around here.   

[jssgbsn]

The stud down is a small torque requirement.  23# IIRC (If I Remember correctly).  Forearm tight should be fine with the Loctite, but we all got different strength forearms I guess.  (Forearm tight meaning as tight as you can get just before you feel like throwing your shoulder into it.)

The nut on is 110# (per FROR).

You don't need an allen, torx, star or any other type of 'fancy' head on the stud. 

If you don't wanna wing it with 'forearm tight', you can double nut the stud and still torque it so spec. Or buy the 'fancy' style.  Pretty sure TG sells them.

I double nut the ones I got from FROR (knuckle studs) and torqued them down with loctite.  Probably unnecessary, but it creates piece of mind for me so...........FTW!!

(And no the kit does not come with the cone washers.  That's a different kit.  But $2.50-3.00 sounds about right for new ones.)

[jssgbsn]

Still furiously waiting for my parts from Marlin that I paid for SECOND day shipping on.  Ordered on a Thursday, first delivery attempt was on a Monday.

Every company I have ever ordered things from on-line is 'business day' not callendar days.  SAT/SUN don't count.  i dont really ever pay for quick delivery, but still, pretty sure it is a 'business day' thing.  So it sounds like that would have been right on time.

I hate waiting for parts from any place.

Hope the rebuild goes flawless once the parts arrive you are expecting.

[84Flatbed]

I don't know if it applies to large items but I've asked fedex to leave shipments at a fed ex store when I know I won't be home, they will hold it there for a limited amount of time until you can pick it up. If you don't have a fedex store near you then it won't help.

[55reasons [OP]]

OK, got a couple of hours on it today.

Need some expert advice on the gearing.

The front diff had a ring gear marked 10x39.  I would assume this is a 3:90
The rear, no matter how many times me, or anyone else tries it, wheel chocked, etc., gets one rotation to the tire x 2 rotations at the shaft.

Remember.  93 4runner with a manual swap and an 83 front SAS running 33's.

For a truck that will primarily be street and highway, what gears would you suggest?

What do you think is up with the rear 2:1 ratio?

[1985CRAWLER]

Remember.  93 4runner with a manual swap and an 83 front SAS running 33's.

For a truck that will primarily be street and highway, what gears would you suggest?

What do you think is up with the rear 2:1 ratio?

4.88s will be the best for that setup.

best mpg and will keep the rpms right where they should be.

[55reasons [OP]]

Thanks.  I'll look into it.

I dunno, but it seems as though the truck was geared 390 front and back.

At least that's what I'm gathering from other searches on the net about a seemingly 2:1 spin test

[55reasons [OP]]

So you know what I'm working with:

https://imageshack.com/i/exBErikaj

https://imageshack.com/i/idw5pCN5j

https://imageshack.com/i/f0dAiGRSj

https://imageshack.com/i/iqWfG1r3j

[1985CRAWLER]

looks like good ole fashion gear oil smelling fun.

id toss some knuckle gussets and front diff armor on that housing while u have it out if u ever plan on doing crawling with it just as a precaution. i myself have damaged a housing and ring gear leaving it armorlesse.

might as well do the vented rotors and ifs calipers as well while its all apart.

3.90 gears seem ridiculous with 33s. go 4.88s or 5.29s if u plan on goin to 35s in the future.

[55reasons [OP]]

If I told you what I already have in this project, you might pass out.

Consider $100 a day in rack fees, rental cars, uhaul trucks to haul the stuff around, etc...

I thought about the reinforcement, but I powdercoated everything already last night.  I did re-weld some things as well as a new stabilizer mount before I coated it though..

I'll get those pics and post them up soon enough

[55reasons [OP]]

So, got the last (I think) of the parts in today and started re-assembly.  Re-geared to 4:56 and managed to dig up a set of knuckle bolts and hub studs.

I went pretty thick with the powdercoat so it should hold up well, but not too thick that it should chip off easily.

As it sits:

https://imageshack.com/i/idcHHrHWj

[55reasons [OP]]

The original steering stabilizer mounting is incredibly bad and the tie rods are in really bad shape.

These are definitely oversized.  Best place to get some new tie rods and ends for this application?  Raw steel is good so I can powdercoat it to match.

https://imageshack.com/i/eyKxNpSSj

[55reasons [OP]]

BTW, some pics of the progress:

https://imageshack.com/i/ip3QIVCQj

https://imageshack.com/i/f0jaEYy5j

https://imageshack.com/i/iqf7VYYWj

https://imageshack.com/i/ezVcTictj

[jssgbsn]

Going quicker than mine.  Looks better too, 

You should be able to upload pics directly now 

[55reasons [OP]]

Going quicker than mine.  Looks better too, 

You should be able to upload pics directly now 

Thanks!

It keeps telling me that my photos are too big to upload.  140K is the max size, and just one iPhone pic is like 1.8 Mb, so......

Any referrals for a good tie rod / drag link kit?  I was thinking the AllPro might be the easiest.

[55reasons [OP]]

While I figure out the tie rod supplier issue,  I think I'm gonna go ahead and fab up some upper shock mount hoops and order some longer travel shocks.

Anyone keen, just by these pics, on where these leaf springs may have come from?  Recommend a new leaf pack?

How about an inverted u-Bolt kit?

The more I'm under this thing, the more of a basket-case I realize it was when I got it.

[jssgbsn]

It keeps telling me that my photos are too big to upload.  140K is the max size, and just one iPhone pic is like 1.8 Mb, so......

I upload from my iPhone to my computer.  Then I edit the picture.  Not sure what software you got, but most usually have a few options to 'resize'.

I usually select Web Page Large (640x480 pixels).  Usually gets under the 140k.  Sometimes I have to crop the pic a little bit if it is still over.