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There's no problem with revving high just the power drops off.
Our first race car, a 1984 Toyota Celica GTS (from Toyota) raced in the Macao Grand Prix, South East Asia’s most prestigious regional race. This track is a Toyota favorite, where all top Japanese racing teams come, to race against all the international competitors. This is the only documented win by the Toyota 22R in international competition. It placed 3rd, behind 2 six-cylinder factory prepared BMWs!
Weber 32/36 offenhouser intake "stage 3" TRD cam. Stock everything else. Looking at the air/fuel I started to go lean at 4800. Cam has 89,000 miles bottom end has well over 200,000 that includes other parts such as the valve springs and other items around the cam.
Whatever jets that a 32/36 comes with.Cam specs are simular if not the same as on lce for their stage 3 cam.
Pain in the ass is right. But I've learned to drive it well. And yeah those are the same specs.
79coyotefrg, that video ! An to think I feel guilty on the rare occasion I hit 4500rpm. how fast where you going, I couldnt take my eyes off the tach. Theres alot more to those 20/22r hybrids than just slappin a 20r head on an early 22r block, right?
Yes I read one of your posts and I was like Damn! I'm going to put the best valves I can find into the 20r head I want it to be safe for going past 8500 but then never go past. I'm going to have the rods and crank of what's ever I do balanced to perfection. Also I was told I can put a girdle on the crank. I saw one on a Honda engine and asked "wtf is that?" Then the master mechanic next door said I could make one or find one for the 20r if I was lucky. Dose the crank need the beefing up? I assume the stock crank can handle stupid power. What about the mains?
So let's say 3000 budget I have an offenhouser intake. And 32/36. I was at the drag races last night with my 3.58 rear end running 18.5
I looked at the math and a 4.10 ratio is about a 15% drop in time if I hook up and get all my shifts. When I had the 3.73 3rd got squirrely on a HARD shift. I'd like to be in $2000-3000 for the engine. Goal wheel hp is 150-160. If I get more cool but at least 150 hp at 5500rpm and the ability to rev up to 8000 without blowing to kingdom come.
8000RPM will require better rods, and work on the head. You'll never achieve your goal with a 32/26 Weber, a single 40mm down draft will fall a bit short towards the upper end. Side draft carbs will get ya there! You would need a set of short 4 into 1 headers for that RPM and a 2 1/2" exhaust. Don't do the tri-Y set up for that kind of RPM, it'll fall flat. And getting the 22R to spin like that will require mods that kill your bottom end. Make sure the shop doing your balancing does a great job, it's a heavy crank and at speeds that high it likes to gyrate and destroy the oil pump.
So let's say 3000 budget I have an offenhouser intake. And 32/36. I was at the drag races last night with my 3.58 rear end running 18.5 I looked at the math and a 4.10 ratio is about a 15% drop in time if I hook up and get all my shifts. When I had the 3.73 3rd got squirrely on a HARD shift. I'd like to be in $2000-3000 for the engine. Goal wheel hp is 150-160. If I get more cool but at least 150 hp at 5500rpm and the ability to rev up to 8000 without blowing to kingdom come.
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