T100 SAS Project

[541mudder]

More Pictures

[ryantowry_81]

getting closer!!  keep up the good work!

[4xChinook4]

Love the bushings, they should lay you bit ,eh? good work

[541mudder]

getting closer!!  keep up the good work!

Thanks! It's coming together... hopefully It will be operational again in a week or two.

Love the bushings, they should lay you bit ,eh? good work

Yep; the bushings should hold their own for a good while. I have a buddy who raced a build Camaro back in the day and he made all of his own bushings out of UHMW.

[4xChinook4]

Well hey, that's a good 'track record' .   pun intended 

[541mudder]

Got some work done on the front axle this afternoon. I was able to install the high steer arms and put the tires on. I was going to mount the leaf springs but the studs I got for the cast perch mount wouldn't thread in. I thought they were 5/8 course thread but I am not sure... I will do some research and either buy the right ones or re-tap the threads in the casting. I also found that the spring plate I purchased doesn't have the correct hole pattern for these studs either. I will contact the company and see if I can swap the one I have for the correct one or I will take the plate to school and punch new holes or slot the current ones. I also put the front axle under the truck to see what it looked like... gotta say I am in love!!!

[4xChinook4]

Coming together nicely !

[541mudder]

Toyota Update: I contacted Ruff Stuff and they were willing to swap out plate as long as I paid the $8 shipping fee. Made more sense to me to deal with returning the old plate and paying the shipping fee to have a plate with the correct holes than to modify the plate I already have. The new plate should be here Saturday. I did some research and found that the stud holes in the cast perch mount are 9/16 course thread... I did some more research and talked to my local 4x4 shop and found that the 9/16 have a tendency to break or get pulled out. So after much debate I decided to drill out the 9/16 threaded hole with a 35/64 (exactly 1/64 bigger than the recommended tap drill hole for a 5/8) and tapped the holes for 5/8 course thread. I already had 5/8 course thread studs so that helped sway my decision. After tapping I installed the 5/8 studs but I need to file down the rib on the front of the axle in order to get the jam nut to sit flat. On another note, I think I will make my front shackles on Saturday and if all goes well I might be able to do a mock up this weekend.

[541mudder]

Toyota Update: I have been working with Ruffstuff in an attempt to figure out what the deal is with the U-bolt plate. After several phone calls It was recommended that I either make my own or modify theirs. Since I had already spent the money and had the plate I decided to modify the existing plate by slotting several holes. I had to slot the stud holes and the spring locating hole. If it all works I will have the passenger side spring on this evening. I also spent time making my rear mounts for the front springs. I used 3.25" x 3.25" x .25" square tubing. I got the tubing from my local 4x4 shop who had the angles already cut into it. I got both blank mounts for $20. I then proceeded to deburr the sharp edges and clean the blanks in a solvent tank. After that I drew the drill location on the parts and drilled a 3/4" through hole. Once drilling was completed I cut out the bottom of the tube so that the leaf spring would fit. I then used a CNC plasma table to cut out 3" x 3" x 3/16" square plates and welded them to the backside of the mounts. One final cleaning and they were complete. I then mounted the drivers side mount and will do the same to the passenger side once the spring is on the axle.

[541mudder]

Pictures of the rear spring mounts for the front leaf springs. Sorry for some of the photos, I took them with my phone.

[ryantowry_81]

your doing shackle up front?

[541mudder]

your doing shackle up front?

As of right now that is the current plan. It will provide me with a lower ride height and will prevent my tires from rubbing against my firewall/fender when flexing by moving the axle forward instead of backwards. Many jeeps came stock with shackles up front and I have a friend who has run shackles up front on several jeeps, samuri's and I think one toyota with no issues. He has wheeled and crawled all of the previously mentioned vehicles.

[ryantowry_81]

you know for the longest time you saw a lot of people converting from front shackle to rear because of theories of why it would create poor handling characteristics and other issues and now i have seen a lot of people reverting to it for the other strengths it has like lower stance, firewall clearance and no need for a long slip drive shaft. i will e interested to see how it behaves for you.  seems the opinoins change like the wind.  kiind of a chevy vs ford debate from what i have seen.

[541mudder]

you know for the longest time you saw a lot of people converting from front shackle to rear because of theories of why it would create poor handling characteristics and other issues and now i have seen a lot of people reverting to it for the other strengths it has like lower stance, firewall clearance and no need for a long slip drive shaft. i will e interested to see how it behaves for you.  seems the opinoins change like the wind.  kiind of a chevy vs ford debate from what i have seen.

Ya I agree with you on that. However, I still foresee the need for a longer slip yoke because the axle will move forward during flex.

[541mudder]

Toyota Update: I was able to get some work done on the yota today. I spent the morning making the shackles. I made them out of 2" x 3/8" strip steal and drilled 6" centers. I also made a mock-up bracket out of some 3" x 2" x .120" square tube. After That I spent all day working on my senior project. When I got home I mounted the passenger side leaf spring and rear mount. I then installed the shackles and muck-up bracket. When attempting to line up the axles with the frame and found I had to cut one last set of brackets to allow the mounts to sit flush. I was able to get the axle to within 1/32" of square with the frame. However, the rear mounts are not symmetrical on the frame. I am not sure why it doesn't line up. Every measurement I have made to check if my frame is square has only proved that it is square. I have come to wonder if the tapper is slightly different for each side of the frame (highly doubt it). Tomorrow I will attempt to get the axle lined up and tack the mounts and mock up bracket in place and have the truck sitting on its own 4 legs.

[kneedownnate]

Where'd you get the uhmw?  That's the same stuff they make frame sliders out of for motorcycles and I'd love to be able to make my own

[541mudder]

Where'd you get the uhmw?  That's the same stuff they make frame sliders out of for motorcycles and I'd love to be able to make my own

I found some scrap at my school so I got it for free. I just did a quick google check and you can get it in many different shapes from http://www.usplastic.com/search/?q=uhmw&view=g

[ryantowry_81]

I have purchased uhmw from mcmastercarr also in round stock and sheet for projects. Decent way to get smaller quantities quickly.

[ryantowry_81]

Ya I agree with you on that. However, I still foresee the need for a longer slip yoke because the axle will move forward during flex.

It will be interesting to see if you need it or if you can use the stock slip. I have seen others with shackle in front use the stock slip. I guess it would depend how flat your springs sit at ride height.

[541mudder]

It will be interesting to see if you need it or if you can use the stock slip. I have seen others with shackle in front use the stock slip. I guess it would depend how flat your springs sit at ride height.

I will figure that our when I built my own drive shafts. I will start with stock slip yokes and "special" u-joints for now. If need be I will buy a longer slip yoke and adjust my drive shaft accordingly. I am running Dave's off road performance (DORP) springs up front. I have heard good things about them since they are built for the 3.4 motor.

[541mudder]

Toyota Update: I was able to get the axle lined up right and tacked the rear mounts and mock-up mounts in place. So she sits on all 4 for the first time in over a month. If all goes well I will have the permanent mounts made by the end of the week. I would guess that I have stretched the front end between 3"-6"; not sure exactly. I also need to do something about the rear end since it sits so low. I will make longer shackles for the rear and if that is not enough I will call Atlas springs company to see if they can help me out.

[541mudder]

Well haven't gotten much more done on the yota. However, I did tear apart the rear end and sent the rear springs back to Atlas Suspension; such an awesome company, they were willing to replace my rear springs for only the cost of shipping both ways since the springs I have were technically the springs we determined I needed and therefore I ordered. If all goes well I will be getting the new springs by the end of the week or beginning of next week. I think they are going to make 10"+ lift springs instead of the 5" lift springs I had. I also designed and modeled up my front hanger but I am waiting to make it until I get the rear back together. Unfortunately I don't have any new pics for you guys.

[541mudder]

Warthog Update: Well its been a while since I last did an update on this monstrosity. Well we have completed about 98% of all fabrication. All that's left is mostly detail pieces. Things that have been completed but are not in the pictures: installed auxiliary lights, brake lights, reverse lights, blinkers, cubby handles, shift knobs and wired all lights. We drilled holes for the switches; however, we ran out of switches so we are waiting for more to come in the mail to finish the wiring. We also fabricated the front hooks and started to install them. We will finish installing the hooks today and might start the winch spool. We also need to fabricate and install the vents on the doors. After that all we need to do is clean up seams and bondo and sand. Then it's off to paint and reassemble. For those who are interested, it will be street legal with a max speed somewhere around 65-70  , it will not have a turret for legality reasons, it doesn't have four wheel steering due to cost and time but it will have four wheel steering at some point, we have put about 2800 man hours into it. This project has been an amazing experience and I am truly in love with it. 

[spuds015]

That thing is awesome! All that's left is to construct a functional gauss turret

[541mudder]

Toyota Update: I got the new springs for the rear (10" lift as was expected) last week and got them installed. The rear was roughly 3" lower than the front after install. The stock shackles are 4.5" centers; therefore, I plan on making new 8" center shackles to level it out (hopefully it works). After installing the rear springs, I was able to verify my shackle hanger design. Today I was able to get all of the pieces CNC cut on a CNC Plasma table; which were subsequently welded together. If I can find time this weekend I will tear apart the front end and install the new permanent mount, trailer the Yota to the school and weld her up. This would include making the rear drive shaft and rear shackles.

[541mudder]

Toyota Update: I got her up and running this weekend!!! She's a little shaky due to the fact the drive shaft isn't perfectly balanced but it doesn't shake to bad. I made the rear drives shaft by cutting the center part (contains carrier bearing) out of my stock drive shaft and using a 2.75" OD x .085 wall pipe (creates slip fit) which I slipped inside both ends. I then welded her up and installed the drive shaft. The u-joints on a Toyota T100 are roughly 0.100" larger than the u-joints in a Dodge Dana 60. to fix this problem I used a half moon file and a flappy wheel to make the u-joint fit. Breaks were far harder to make work. The biggest issue is that the T100 has 10 x 1 threaded hard lines and components while the Dana 60 has 3/8 x 24 threads. To get the breaks to work I purchased two 10 x 1 female - female adapters and two 10 x 1 male - 3/8 x 24 female adapters. I also purchases two 6" hard lines with 3/8 x 24 threads and two flex hoses with a 3/8 x 24 female and 3/8 x 24 male end. I also fabricated and installed some 8" center to center shackles for the rear. I've noticed she has a little list to one side and I'm not sure what is causing her to do that, but that a problem for a later date. Since I had her up and running I had to use my friends flex ramp... she needs a front drive shaft and lockers in order to reach her full potential. I also got some before and after pics next to my buddies truck.

[541mudder]

Here are some more pics...

[ryantowry_81]

Still a little stiff in the front? looks like the rear is doing all the flex.

Also make sure and test fit a spare u joint if it is custom fit like that so you are not doing it on the trail when it breaks, would hate to be out in the cold and wet filing a u joint to fit. or you could call high angle driveline and they make pinion flanges to bolt up to stock Toyota drive line yokes for the dana 60:
http://www.highangledriveline.com/toy_flange.html

they work great and then it is all stock Toyota drive shaft parts.

A little tall for my taste but fab work looks sweet man, keep up the good work!

[541mudder]

Still a little stiff in the front? looks like the rear is doing all the flex.

Also make sure and test fit a spare u joint if it is custom fit like that so you are not doing it on the trail when it breaks, would hate to be out in the cold and wet filing a u joint to fit. or you could call high angle driveline and they make pinion flanges to bolt up to stock Toyota drive line yokes for the dana 60:
http://www.highangledriveline.com/toy_flange.html

they work great and then it is all stock Toyota drive shaft parts.

A little tall for my taste but fab work looks sweet man, keep up the good work!

Ya the front is a little stiff and the rear is supper soft. I have heard that the front springs I have take a little time to break in but flex pretty well once they are broken in.

I didn't file the u-joint; I filled the pinion flange to fit the Toyota u-loint, supper simple and it fits like a glove. However, I am a fan of doing it right so I'll take a look at the pinion flanges you mentioned.

Surprisingly, despite her height, she isn't too tippy. I am hoping as the front springs wear in she will drop a couple inches. I am also working with the company I got the springs from to try to fix the lean she has. Honestly, I over built the mounts so that I don't have to worry about anything breaking. I also plan on welding on some frame reinforcements that also reinforce the the front mounts.

[4xChinook4]

YAYAAAA !! She's look top notch bro! I'm sure some sag should  her some good.