Author Topic: which camshaft?? (Read 9202 times)

17yrOLDyotakid · « **on:** Jan 16, 2012, 03:04:30 PM »

Can someone tell me which camshaft to buy. i have it narrowed down to a NWOR cam it doesnt have a specific name but are there cams any good?, the LCE pro torquer cam, and the 261C crawler cam. just cant decide please help

kneedownnate · « **Reply #1 on:** Jan 16, 2012, 09:15:26 PM »

No more can anybody else tell you which cam you want than they can tell you what color you should paint your rig. Decide what you want the cam to do for you and what your price point is, then the decision will make itself.

OOPS · « **Reply #2 on:** Jan 17, 2012, 08:42:13 AM »

I cannot tell you what cam to get, but I will tell you to stay away from NWOR (No Warranty Or Return), they suck!!!!!

Give ENGNBLDR a call.

http://www.engnbldr.com/

brainlessfool · « **Reply #3 on:** Jan 19, 2012, 05:42:35 PM »

Quote from: kneedownnate on Jan 16, 2012, 09:15:26 PM

No more can anybody else tell you which cam you want than they can tell you what color you should paint your rig. Decide what you want the cam to do for you and what your price point is, then the decision will make itself.

go with the LC cam and paint it red.

80hilux4x4 · « **Reply #4 on:** Jan 21, 2012, 08:16:20 AM »

Comp cams makes a few different cams on that is suposed be be a little better on bottom is. The comp251 i am pretty sure thats the cam that is for idle to 4500 rpm from reaserch i did i found the comp 251 to but out the highest # seems to be a cam i would like for mine. But like said above alot of us have are own preference

blumagoo · « **Reply #5 on:** Jan 21, 2012, 06:30:50 PM »

I bought the comp cams 268, I can't say it makes a whole lot of difference but it's in there now and I'm not taking it out.
It does let the engine rev to 4500 a little easier.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #6 on:** Jan 21, 2012, 06:53:05 PM »

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #7 on:** Jan 21, 2012, 08:14:02 PM »

do not buy no where off road anything they suck PERIOD

Osage · « **Reply #8 on:** Feb 12, 2012, 01:42:41 PM »

I'm trying to decide the same thing, here are just a few things to consider.

Is it a daily driver, are you gonna do any head porting, valve size ect., are you going to use a header. do you want high rpm power or low rpm torque, is a rough idle going to bother you , what carb. are you gonna run, Doy you wanna use stiffer valve springs, what compression ratio? fuel mileage a issue.

When I drag raced ( Chevy small blocks ) people building engine for performance the first time made common mistakes, They- spent to much money on big cam , big headers and big carb and to little money on head work, Good Heads = dependable day after day power

Cam's do not make any power, they are simply a tool that allows power that is already there to come forth or be discovered, they simply decide when and how long a set of valves is open. Spend your time on your head first, a engine with correctly ported and reworked heads and stock cam will out perform and engine with " big " cam and stock heads, also remember stiffer springs wear a camshaft faster, it is a fact of life, plus a cam not matched to your engine will perform worse than a stock cam if it has to much duration and lift and the engine can not supply it with enough air fuel in and burnt mixturel out. I think the advise to call engbuilder is what you should do, he understands all this and knows what does and doesn't work with these little engines. Mine will come from him or LCE, but engbuilder will do the head work for sure.

oh and I paint every engine and rig orange cause everyone knows orange paint is the fastest color out here

Sparkplug · « **Reply #9 on:** Feb 12, 2012, 01:52:04 PM »

Stock cam is best IMO. It performs the best throughout the power band, and esp on the bottom end, which s what these motors were designed for. Long stroke

rubiconrunnerneville · « **Reply #10 on:** Feb 18, 2012, 01:54:29 PM »

I'm compared a stock re cam to a stock turbo cam and I run the stock turbo cam better power in my motor with .020 bore gasket matched head and intake and a downey off-road carb legal header I know that downey is no longer operating but a lc egineering one works with more air in you need more out and no I'm not running the stock size intake tubing doesn't flow that great and it only cost me 30 bucks to get better flowing intake. I did pass smog in CA with 33s and stock bore but not with 37s with 4.88s or 5.29s with bore came close but not worth me getting 33s. my 2cents

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #11 on:** Feb 26, 2012, 01:13:48 PM »

it really makes me

when I see someone state on here how "these engines need a crawler cam so they have good torque" it only shows how completely ignorant of how these engines operate you are.

the 20R/22R/22RE are all long stroke engines and make very good torque numbers at fairly low rpm's. they don't need ANY HELP WITH TORQUE AT ALL

the only engines I can think of that make more low end torque would be the Jeep F134 which had a 3.1 inch bore and 4.3 inch stroke

what these engines DO need is more horsepower (think about getting on the freeway) and to do that they need their intake and exhaust ports opened up and a cam to hold the valves open just a tiny bit longer and a little wider. a cam to do this is going to need .430 inches of lift but no more than .450 or you'll be needing to check piston to valve clearances.
You wont need stronger springs unless you are running a very high lift cam at over 5000 rpm for long periods (circle track or desert racing) the cam I run has .460 lift and 290* duration http://www.lceperformance.com/Camshaft-20R-22R-RE-RET-Stage-2-Cam-p/1022036.htm , and the valves WILL hit a stock piston thats why my pistons are notched but for almost anyone reading this a .430 -.440 cam is perfect such as this one from LC Engineering http://www.lceperformance.com/Camshaft-20R-22R-RE-RET-Street-Performer-Cam-p/1022054.htm
I believe engnblder sells a cam with .430 lift also thats a good bit cheaper.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #12 on:** Feb 26, 2012, 01:19:17 PM »

Quote from: Osage on Feb 12, 2012, 01:42:41 PM

I'm trying to decide the same thing, here are just a few things to consider.

Is it a daily driver, are you gonna do any head porting, valve size ect., are you going to use a header. do you want high rpm power or low rpm torque, is a rough idle going to bother you , what carb. are you gonna run, Doy you wanna use stiffer valve springs, what compression ratio? fuel mileage a issue.

When I drag raced ( Chevy small blocks ) people building engine for performance the first time made common mistakes, They- spent to much money on big cam , big headers and big carb and to little money on head work, Good Heads = dependable day after day power

Cam's do not make any power, they are simply a tool that allows power that is already there to come forth or be discovered, they simply decide when and how long a set of valves is open. Spend your time on your head first, a engine with correctly ported and reworked heads and stock cam will out perform and engine with " big " cam and stock heads, also remember stiffer springs wear a camshaft faster, it is a fact of life, plus a cam not matched to your engine will perform worse than a stock cam if it has to much duration and lift and the engine can not supply it with enough air fuel in and burnt mixturel out. I think the advise to call engbuilder is what you should do, he understands all this and knows what does and doesn't work with these little engines. Mine will come from him or LCE, but engbuilder will do the head work for sure.

oh and I paint every engine and rig orange cause everyone knows orange paint is the fastest color out here

I totally agree about throwing parts at a stock head. it just wont work without head work, the best head for a 22R is simply a 20R head.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #13 on:** Feb 26, 2012, 02:20:57 PM »

I shot this video a year ago. 22R bored .060 over (i don't recommend doing that) ported 22R head, above mentioned stage 2 cam, 32/36 weber, long tube LCE style header into 2 1/4 inch exhaust. 20R ignition.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VX1AFhpOck&context=C30f4bb6ADOEgsToPDskJSDuE2yPVu4k6ZB2kgns8q

Gnarly4X · « **Reply #14 on:** Jan 22, 2024, 03:17:58 AM »

RESURRECTION

I was scrolling through the who’s online and looking at topics.

One guest was looking at this thread.

I read through all 14 posts from about 12 years ago.

I had to laugh at some of the comments.

There is a lot of misinformation and anecdotal bravo sierra.

Too much fake news.

Zero cam specs! Zero information on application!

Asking a question like “Can someone tell me which camshaft to buy.” Is like asking which toilet paper to buy.

Gnarls.

sirdeuce · « **Reply #15 on:** Jan 22, 2024, 09:00:50 AM »

Quote from: Gnarly4X on Jan 22, 2024, 03:17:58 AM

RESURRECTION

I was scrolling through the who’s online and looking at topics.

One guest was looking at this thread.

I read through all 14 posts from about 12 years ago.

I had to laugh at some of the comments.

There is a lot of misinformation and anecdotal bravo sierra.

Too much fake news.

Zero cam specs! Zero information on application!

Asking a question like “Can someone tell me which camshaft to buy.” Is like asking which toilet paper to buy.

Gnarls.

No cam specs? Well my suggestion would be, not that one.

2 very important pieces of information needed to make any recomendations on anybody's engine build are intended use and budget. More often than not people think a "daily driven street build" Should spin to 9000rpm and peak power at 8700rpm, and stay within a $2000 budget.

For a 22R that is still stock internally and will be used in a 4WD application, my suggestion is to find a cam with the closest to stock specs with as much lift as possible with the stock valve train.

Otherwise, a nonmodded engine that the owner just want to use a bigger cam because he wants more power my suggestion is a 500 degree cam with 3 inches of lift. Yeah, that should do it.

As for toilet paper? 30 grit!

Gnarly4X · « **Reply #16 on:** Jan 22, 2024, 11:12:31 AM »

Quote from: sirdeuce on Jan 22, 2024, 09:00:50 AM

No cam specs? Well my suggestion would be, not that one.

2 very important pieces of information needed to make any recomendations on anybody's engine build are intended use and budget. More often than not people think a "daily driven street build" Should spin to 9000rpm and peak power at 8700rpm, and stay within a $2000 budget.

For a 22R that is still stock internally and will be used in a 4WD application, my suggestion is to find a cam with the closest to stock specs with as much lift as possible with the stock valve train.

Otherwise, a nonmodded engine that the owner just want to use a bigger cam because he wants more power my suggestion is a 500 degree cam with 3 inches of lift. Yeah, that should do it.

As for toilet paper? 30 grit!

Gnarly4X · « **Reply #17 on:** Jan 22, 2024, 11:34:34 AM »

What I find interesting is that there is so much Bravo Sierra posted on the internet.... EVERYWHERE!

I have a problem with 10 of the original 14 posts.

I disagree with 90% of the statements.

Gnarls.

Gnarly4X · « **Reply #18 on:** Jan 22, 2024, 11:51:01 AM »

In the context of forum discussions, the OP's question about camshafts is valid.

Assuming the OP is a young male, based upon his tag.....

From the question, I assume he wants someone to magically pull an answer out of their anal cavity that will validate the 3 cams that have been "narrowed down", and then choose one.

He doesn't even state for what engine.

It is a dumba$$ question, but DAQ's are very common on any forum.

Being nice, I would have asked about 10 questions and based upon the answers, I would have decided how much time I would spend on addressing the question and perhaps providing "backup" to an optional choice.

Gnarls.

sirdeuce · « **Reply #19 on:** Jan 22, 2024, 02:14:36 PM »

Quote from: Gnarly4X on Jan 22, 2024, 11:51:01 AM

Being nice, I would have asked about 10 questions and based upon the answers, I would have decided how much time I would spend on addressing the question and perhaps providing "backup" to an optional choice.

Gnarls.

Exactly.

And sooooooo many will just jump out and say what cam is "right" for the application. But that is what you get with a lack of information.

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