Author Topic: 22r to 22re swap writeup (Read 47326 times)

87hillbillyoter · « **on:** Sep 08, 2011, 05:08:00 PM »

Starting this thread more as a write up where people can go and find exactly what has to be done with pictures. and where questions can be asked. i will be doing this swap and taking a bunch of pictures. although i will admit, i have no idea what im doing. so any tips or tricks, post em up!

first off, here are a few links to check out if you are doing this swap. these are more for converting a carb'ed engine to FI. i am swapping an entire engine in.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=316661

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=201142

pulling the engine this weekend hopefully. we'll see how it turns out

Jokeass-Wheelers · « **Reply #1 on:** Sep 08, 2011, 06:07:27 PM »

so you r doing the 22r to 22re swap

87hillbillyoter · « **Reply #2 on:** Sep 08, 2011, 08:25:06 PM »

yea haha

Jokeass-Wheelers · « **Reply #3 on:** Sep 09, 2011, 07:10:59 AM »

What year? I have done a 22re swap in my 1982 Toyota everything went together just fine until I found out that my wiring harness was all messed up it's actualy a really easy swap if u have a good harness

87hillbillyoter · « **Reply #4 on:** Sep 09, 2011, 10:19:09 AM »

i believe its from an 85. got the full harness too. im in the middle of pulling the engine right now, got the exhaust and radiator off. really have no idea what im doing haha

superyota · « **Reply #5 on:** Sep 09, 2011, 11:41:34 AM »

start practicing with your soldering gun. I did my 22r to re swap on my 85 5 years ago. it was overwhelming at first. but once you get going, its not bad at all. If i remember right, there is something like 130 wires total that need to get soldered. and use heat shrink instead of electrical tape.

superyota · « **Reply #6 on:** Sep 09, 2011, 11:42:41 AM »

and if you want your temp guage and fuel guage to work, you'll need the guage cluster from the 22re truck also.

Sparkplug · « **Reply #7 on:** Sep 09, 2011, 11:59:48 AM »

I just got a dash harness with mine, along with the engine harness. And my swap was plug and play. Only thing I had to do was cut and splice reverse lights, becasue my 2wd harness had them running with engine harness. I didnt have to solder anything. Mine was a 84 22r swapped to a 85 22re system. Very easy, straightforward swap.

87hillbillyoter · « **Reply #8 on:** Sep 09, 2011, 02:21:55 PM »

Quote from: superyota on Sep 09, 2011, 11:41:34 AM

start practicing with your soldering gun. I did my 22r to re swap on my 85 5 years ago. it was overwhelming at first. but once you get going, its not bad at all. If i remember right, there is something like 130 wires total that need to get soldered. and use heat shrink instead of electrical tape.

thats a lot of wires! haha i thought it was just a few here and there. i got most of everything disconnected, i just need to pull it.

should i basically remove the entire dash? make it easier to wire stuff up?

superyota · « **Reply #9 on:** Sep 09, 2011, 02:28:00 PM »

Quote from: 87hillbillyoter on Sep 09, 2011, 02:21:55 PM

thats a lot of wires! haha i thought it was just a few here and there. i got most of everything disconnected, i just need to pull it.

should i basically remove the entire dash? make it easier to wire stuff up?

thats what I did. Took the whole dash off. the body harness on mine(85 to 85) wrapped all the way through the body and through the fire wall making a complete loop. there were some things I could disconnect, but the main harness that runs under each one of the front fenders, I had to cut to get through the firewall. after drilling a large hole in the passenger side of my firewall, i ran the harness back through and started soldering.

Sparkplug · « **Reply #10 on:** Sep 09, 2011, 02:32:00 PM »

Thats weird? Ours also ran through the fenders, but we did not have to solder anything, it all unplugged and was able to slide out, and plug right back in, just how it was, no soldering at all. All we had to do for our swap was tap a hole in the block for a knock sensor, and cut and splice the reverse lights, everything else is stock. It looks completely and totally factory, and the cel functions exactly how it should. Maybe some trucks are wired differently, but me and my buddy were able to remove and install it with 0 soldering or cuttting.

superyota · « **Reply #11 on:** Sep 09, 2011, 02:41:06 PM »

here is a link to the my post from a few years back. I never did finish posting up, but there are a few pictures and also some good links to pirate and also to volcom's build up where he did the same thing. check it out...

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=30995.0;highlight=efi+swap

87hillbillyoter · « **Reply #12 on:** Sep 09, 2011, 02:49:29 PM »

alright thanks man, i actually have been reading through those threads and others a lot. the thing that im most confused about is the vacuum lines when i put it back together. i have everything marked for the carb, i just dont know how those are going to go on the EFI....

oh and one more thing i was worried about, it will bolt right up to my tranny right?

superyota · « **Reply #13 on:** Sep 09, 2011, 02:57:52 PM »

Quote from: 87hillbillyoter on Sep 09, 2011, 02:49:29 PM

alright thanks man, i actually have been reading through those threads and others a lot. the thing that im most confused about is the vacuum lines when i put it back together. i have everything marked for the carb, i just dont know how those are going to go on the EFI....

oh and one more thing i was worried about, it will bolt right up to my tranny right?

yes, it will bolt right up. the efi has less vacuum lines than the carb setup does. it is really straight forward. you can get digrams.

87hillbillyoter · « **Reply #14 on:** Sep 09, 2011, 03:01:38 PM »

sweet. im goin to pull my dash now... should be fun

Sparkplug · « **Reply #15 on:** Sep 09, 2011, 04:04:38 PM »

Im actually doing a efi swap, and a sas on my gf truck right now, These are pics of how I run the harness through the fenders, the stock way, the engine harness for the ecu, you cut a hole in the firewall, is all. Maybe yours was dif? I have done a few of these, and always has been the same way. Only time was dif was helping on a 1st gen, and to get it to work with the factory cluster, they had to pin and splice. Maybe there are multiple ways to do it, but Im just saying I would not cut anything that did not have to be cut.

Yes, you have to pull the dash, to be able to run the harnesses correctly. They are attached under the dash pad, we just zip tie the re harness on when we do it. Its very simple. It will feel crazy, because nothing will be in the interior, but in reality, its not very many pieces, and it will all go and fall in its spot, unless like I said, for some reason, your truck turns out to be different.

that is the body harness, they both remove and install the same way on any 2nd gen ive done.

superyota · « **Reply #16 on:** Sep 09, 2011, 04:15:33 PM »

if you can do it without cutting and soldering, thats great! thats the way i would have done if I could. Not sure what would be different though. the harness your holding in your hand in the pictures, on mine, it went in a complete loop through the inside of the cab under the dash, and all the forward to the headlights and tucked up under the core support just above the radiator. i've only done one truck. maybe it was just the one I did was some kind of a screw ball deal. not sure.

Sparkplug · « **Reply #17 on:** Sep 09, 2011, 04:29:43 PM »

Like this?

This is the alternator/ headlight harness, It to un clips and comes right out, in the pics its still ran under the trim, but its only held on by 2 plastic clips. Im not trying to say you did it wrong, Im just trying to let the op know there may be a way to do it without cutting.

The fender harnesses do run in a loop through the cab, but I am not seeing where they have to be cut to be removed? Once its unplugged from all the accesories in the cab, it pulls through those rubber grommet covered holed in th rear of the fender, and comes out?

Fiercefirstgen559 · « **Reply #18 on:** Sep 09, 2011, 05:21:15 PM »

I ran the under fender harness through the fire wall instead of out the side of the cab and in the well. IMO the wires are more protected from the elements being under the hood vs. In the fender well.

Jokeass-Wheelers · « **Reply #19 on:** Sep 09, 2011, 05:37:30 PM »

Looks like it's comin along good

87hillbillyoter · « **Reply #20 on:** Sep 09, 2011, 06:49:21 PM »

thanks for the pics and the help yall, it really helps. so far today i got most of the vacuum lines unhooked and labled, radiator removed, header off, and most of the dash unbolted. the damn thing wouldnt come off, so i said F*ck it, ill do it tomorrow. probably missing a couple bolts. does the lower part of the dash have to come off before the top part?

Sparkplug · « **Reply #21 on:** Sep 09, 2011, 07:11:18 PM »

the dash pad itself is like the last piece almost. Dont bother with the vac line, theya rent gonna matter for the re, its gonna have its own vac rail that goes with it.

Zs Confederate Toy · « **Reply #22 on:** Sep 09, 2011, 07:23:52 PM »

I like this thread already

87hillbillyoter · « **Reply #23 on:** Sep 10, 2011, 05:29:00 PM »

alright, so i figured id make this into a kind of step by step write up for all those who have no idea what they are doin. like me.

step 1: obviously, pull the hood off.

step 2: you probably dont have to, but i went through and marked every line there is. just in case this went bad, i could drop my old one back in there.

step 3: find everything that is connected to the engine that is also connected to the truck. disconnect all of it. check and re-check. i checked at least 4 times and i still missed a bolt and a ground wire. take the header/manifold off, all the air filter crap off, and vac and electric lines.

step 4: support the transmission and the engine.

step 5: unbolt all the bolts connecting the bellhousing to the engine. in my case, 2 were missing, and one had cracked completely through, so i only had 5 bolts to undo.

step 6: unbolt the motor mounts.

step 7: pull the engine. i had to yank mine a little to get it loose. had a little trouble getting it out of the engine bay because i didnt route the chains right.

oops! missed a wire