Author Topic: PLEASE HELP!! Sputering dying. (Read 3208 times)

BHT12 · « **on:** Aug 26, 2011, 04:10:43 PM »

I just traded rigs and got this 95 4runner. first of all the did a lotof work to the motor and then gave up on it. I have the timing really close and i kno wfor fact thats not what is wrong. I can start it cold and it will idle high like normal but it i start reving it up past 2500 to 3000 all hell breaks loose. it starts sputtering nd the rpm guage jumps around and when it does the the check engine light flickers bright and dim. I tried to drive it like this and i probley got it up to maybe 10mph and when i try to take off it nearly doesnt make it. when i try and drive it it acts like its running on maybe 2 cylinders. if start it and rev it and make it sputter and then let it idle back down it will idle for a little then it just dies all out.

Im stumped i have found a couple grounds not conected and misc other things but nothing its helping.. its throwing a code 41 which is TPS throttle position sensor. replaced that with a used one.. throttle body and all and when i did that i sprayed it all with carb cleaner would that affect anything?? PLEASE HELp.... STUMPED

BHT12 · « **Reply #1 on:** Aug 26, 2011, 04:11:05 PM »

Its a 22re BTW

HULK · « **Reply #2 on:** Aug 26, 2011, 04:26:31 PM »

It happened to me once very similar. You rev it up and when you let go of the idle, does it bog out like it's going to die, then picks up a bit? If it does, this happened to me and it was the idle control valve.

Snowtoy · « **Reply #3 on:** Aug 26, 2011, 05:24:57 PM »

This '93 Toyota FSM might be some help.

How close is the timing? Timing isn't like horse shoes and hand grenade, i.e., close isn't always good enough.

You aren't supposed to use straight carb cleaner, unless it is also stated it is safe for sensors. I am not sure if all of the stuff on the market today is safe, but it didn't used to be.

Are you getting any codes? If so, the used TPS could be bad as well. If you aren't getting any codes than it is likely something on the mechanical.

Might check the fuel filter and pump.

Do you know what the original issue was that the PO tried to resolve before giving up on it?

BHT12 · « **Reply #4 on:** Aug 26, 2011, 05:29:07 PM »

Im going to try and check the idle control valve..

The PO's reason for all the work was a blow head gaskit so then get a new motor.. Thats pretty much what i understood from what they said..

BHT12 · « **Reply #5 on:** Aug 26, 2011, 06:25:08 PM »

That didnt help.. Im kinda leaning twards it being the mass air flow sensor.. if only i hadnt just moved so i would have a friends toyota to swap parts to see whats really wrong with it..... damn lol

HULK · « **Reply #6 on:** Aug 27, 2011, 10:18:22 AM »

BHT...You live in the fresno area? If so I can help you out. If I saw the truck and heard it, I could figure it out. If you are going to try the mass airflow sensor, while it is running unplug it and see if there is a difference, if not, that's it. If it changes the way it runs, then check the idle control valve.

BHT12 · « **Reply #7 on:** Aug 27, 2011, 05:58:22 PM »

I dont i live in eastern Oregon.. I will check that.. i cleaned the idle control valve yesterday.. i unplugged my O2 sensor just cause im guessing at things and it was running good but then i took it for a drive and it started again then i checked the diagnostic again and it threw a code 21..VVT or VCT varietable valve timeing or varietable camshaft timing.. basicly says its too advanced.. im going to turn it down and go from there and if it keeps up i will check the mass air flow sensor.. if not that then... yeah?? lol

BHT12 · « **Reply #8 on:** Aug 27, 2011, 06:46:06 PM »

i have dinked around with it tried the mass air flow sensor.. pluged the o2 in and out. and messed with the timing.. nothing... talking to my uncle me mentioned maybe the ECU??? what do you think? his truck (ford F350) was doing somewhat the same and it was his ECU.. just a thought

BHT12 · « **Reply #9 on:** Aug 27, 2011, 07:37:18 PM »

now i reset the computer it ran good idling for like 5 minutes then i started reving it and it was fine untill i got past 3000rpm's and its sputters once then fell on its face and died.. then i tried to start it and it would but even if i trie to give it gas it would still die... then i checked the codes and it put out...
22 (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor signal..)

24 (Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal.)

31 (Air Flow Meter signal (Vacuum Sensor signal).)

41 (Throttle Position Sensor signal.)

Why is it giving my different codes everytime i check it or restart it?
Could my computer be going out?

Sparkplug · « **Reply #10 on:** Aug 27, 2011, 07:44:05 PM »

you got someones pile. Unplug the tps while its running and see if it revs. Do not unplug the afm, the truck wont run without it. Report back

BHT12 · « **Reply #11 on:** Aug 27, 2011, 07:51:34 PM »

i tried unplugging the tps and it still runs when its un plugged. a little different but it runs

BHT12 · « **Reply #12 on:** Aug 27, 2011, 07:53:55 PM »

i just checked the codes again and it blinked like everything is normal.. tried to start it and it fired up and dies instantly

Sparkplug · « **Reply #13 on:** Aug 27, 2011, 07:57:42 PM »

afm or fuel pump or filter

BHT12 · « **Reply #14 on:** Aug 27, 2011, 08:02:06 PM »

ok.. I was kinda leaning twards afm but i wanted to use someone elses to makes sure.. and i checked the filter and it was good.. the pump wasnt pumping hard but it was just a nice slow steady steam.. shouldnt it be pretty forceful? and it wouldnt prime when i turned it to the key t the on position.. is that normal?

HULK · « **Reply #15 on:** Aug 27, 2011, 08:49:01 PM »

Sometimes when you have low fuel pressure, when you rev it, it may not run right because now you get too much air and not enough gas, so check to see how much pressure you are getting. This happened on my Dodge Ram I had. Let me know. Sorry to say though man, it does sound like you got someone's pile. I would definitely put them out there for others to not deal with them so they don't screw someone else.

Snowtoy · « **Reply #16 on:** Aug 27, 2011, 09:27:12 PM »

Check the fuel pump by jumping the terminals at the diagnostic port.

BHT12 · « **Reply #17 on:** Aug 28, 2011, 11:12:18 PM »

Yeah well i knew it had a few issues when i got it and i got a good deal on it.. But i enjoy working on them.. if i could just figure out this one problem i would have it made! lol

Snowtoy: Which terminals do i jump to figure that out?
and when i jump them will it tell me if it works or not o will it tell me if the fuel pressure is low high or fine??

I didnt have time to work on it tonight.. i will hit it tomorrow and let you guys know what i have figured out..(if anything) lol

Snowtoy · « **Reply #18 on:** Aug 29, 2011, 05:50:37 PM »

In the link I gave you to the '93 Toyota FSM(factory service manual) above, go to the section titled "engine". Under the 22re section look for the "MFI System--Fuel Pump" , the steps to check the fuel pump on the vehicle are listed on the 3rd page(EGI-178).

Since you don't know the history of the engine, the install procedure the PO used, and the problem has been there from the start, I would inspect/check everything. The above FSM will walk you through it all, and has plenty of pics to help identify what to look for.

BHT12 · « **Reply #19 on:** Aug 30, 2011, 08:39:48 AM »

Alright thanks snowboy i will check it out in a little bit.. thank you for the help.

BHT12 · « **Reply #20 on:** Aug 30, 2011, 01:33:55 PM »

ok so i tested the tps on there and it wasnt getting any resistance so i yanked the throttle body off and grabbed my spare and hat tps had resistance so i swapped them and i adjusted it like that page said you suggested. threw it together and started her up and it was idling good down around where it suppose to. reved it up a few times it was good. let it warm up completely and reved it some more it was all good so i hoped it and drove it around the back yard and it was still good never got out of first gear. so i decided to hit the road and i took off right when i get into second i gave it gas and i saw the check engine light flicker and said oh

so i pulled a U'ey and right when i pulled in the driveway it died.. tried to start it same thing as before it started and died instantly. i checked the codes and its saying TPS again.. damn.. any thoughts anyone?

i also checked the fuel pump like it said on the page you told me about snowboy

stupped once again.. does anyone know if there is anything else that could be wrong when the TPS code lights up??

HULK · « **Reply #21 on:** Aug 31, 2011, 05:07:48 PM »

Let me talk to a buddy of mine, I called him already, if it is not figured out by then, I'll see what he says and get back to you as soon as I get a hold of him.

BHT12 · « **Reply #22 on:** Sep 01, 2011, 10:43:12 PM »

Ok that would be cool i would appreciate it.. im going to get an ECM tomorrow if its the right one and try it out. HOPEFULLY it is. and if it is HOPEFULLY it fixes the problem.. For all i know they could have put the terminals on backwards and fried it? who knows!!

HULK · « **Reply #23 on:** Sep 02, 2011, 07:27:52 AM »

My buddy said TPS as well. He said it might be idle control valve sticking or stuck, but TPS is his first choice. If it is not that he told me to get back to him as he was going to research it more.

BHT12 · « **Reply #24 on:** Sep 02, 2011, 09:22:21 AM »

i already have tried two tps's and when i put the second one on i tested it to see if it worked and it does and i adjusted it so everything should have been fine.. i cleaned the idle control valve but i dont knwo how to test if its sticking or not? but i doubt thats whats wrong.

HULK · « **Reply #25 on:** Sep 05, 2011, 07:42:06 AM »

When the truck is cold, take the idle control valve off and see if the rod is sticking out all the way or close to it, or is it shorter and inside the valve. When the truck is warm, the idle control valve should be more out. When the truck is cold, it should be shorter, or less sticking out. It is pretty much a choke for fuel injection. Sometimes, like on my rig, it was stuck in the middle position, it was not sliding.

BHT12 · « **Reply #26 on:** Sep 05, 2011, 07:34:43 PM »

ok i will have to try that.. thank you and i will let you know what i come out with.

BHT12 · « **Reply #27 on:** Oct 04, 2011, 07:32:26 PM »

OK so i fixed the problem... about 2 weeks ago.. i would have posted sooner but i just moved into a new house and have no internet..
anyways the issue was O2 sensor..... AND a clogged injector on the 3rd cylender.. runs like a dream now. love it..

i have also found out the 4wd isnt working..
any ideas on that? im not use to IFS.. i know the cv's are good. so i dunno?

Snowtoy · « **Reply #28 on:** Oct 04, 2011, 09:12:59 PM »

It works the same way as the SA.

Check to make sure the t-case is engaging. I had the rear not want to engage on my duals once, not sure what the issue was, it hasn't done it since, a buddy had the same issue once as well.

BHT12 · « **Reply #29 on:** Oct 05, 2011, 01:53:13 PM »

I figured it out last night. the egr valve wasn't supplying the vaccum. so then I tapped into a different vacuum line with my washer fluid line t lol just for temporary use but it works for now. And now that I think about it. It should make the cruise control work too because it runs on the same line as the 4wd

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