Author Topic: arp hub studs (Read 11363 times)

OOPS · « **Reply #30 on:** Aug 09, 2011, 08:34:27 PM »

Quote from: crazykooter on Aug 09, 2011, 06:32:05 PM

Its more important to torque the studs then anything. If you dont get the studs tight enough they will not break but rip the threads out. On hub studs I would torque them to 20 and then the nuts to the same.

I just sent an inquiry to ARP about this. That is not the way I was taught, so I want to see which way is right. I was taught to just snug them up in the hole.

ninja turtle · « **Reply #31 on:** Aug 09, 2011, 08:49:22 PM »

have you guys seen a stud rip out? i havnt. i have seen lots shear but never one rip out.

OOPS · « **Reply #32 on:** Aug 09, 2011, 09:11:23 PM »

Many, all on top fuel dragsters.

jrock · « **Reply #33 on:** Aug 09, 2011, 10:13:47 PM »

Those look fine! Put them in and runm'

Gixxer Jon · « **Reply #34 on:** Aug 09, 2011, 11:06:30 PM »

They aren't called Fail Gear for no reason.

superyota · « **Reply #35 on:** Aug 10, 2011, 08:22:26 AM »

Quote from: Gixxer Jon on Aug 09, 2011, 11:06:30 PM

They aren't called Fail Gear for no reason.

dang it Jon, your supposed to be encouraging me. you helped me put them in

superyota · « **Reply #36 on:** Aug 10, 2011, 08:32:51 AM »

So I emailed brian from FROR yesterday about the studs and what he recommends. He said to leave them in the way I put them and to get some class 10 nuts for it. So thats what i'm going for.

mudmaster · « **Reply #37 on:** Aug 10, 2011, 11:18:47 AM »

Quote from: superyota on Aug 10, 2011, 08:32:51 AM

So I emailed brian from FROR yesterday about the studs and what he recommends. He said to leave them in the way I put them and to get some class 10 nuts for it. So thats what i'm going for.

Did he also give you his recommended torque values?

superyota · « **Reply #38 on:** Aug 10, 2011, 11:58:12 AM »

Quote from: mudmaster on Aug 10, 2011, 11:18:47 AM

Did he also give you his recommended torque values?

no, I forgot to ask. I just pm'ed him again. I'll post up as soon as I hear something from him.

blackdiamond · « **Reply #39 on:** Aug 10, 2011, 11:58:50 AM »

I didn't read the entire PBB thread on this subject, but it's obvious that TG really messed this one up. Why go to the trouble of installing upgraded hub studs and leave them installed knowing that you don't have the OEM thread engagement into hub body. Anybody that is satisfied with stacking washers to correct the issue doesn't care about quality. TG should be sending new ones to everyone that purchased these without being asked. I'm sure it was an honest mistake, but they really need to tread this like a recall rather than a warranty issue.

I doubt many people will experience failures as a result of this issue, but it's simply not acceptable to knowingly leave something installed incorrectly in my opinion. I'd never knowingly purchase a rig from anyone that was satisfied with this level of quality.

My advice - Call TG and tell them that you either want replacements mailed so that you can only take things apart once or your money back so you can go through FROR (where I got mine a long time ago) and then you'll return their defective product. You shouldn't be expected to take things apart more than once to get this problem fixed.

While I'm not a TG fan at all, I think this is an nice product that could have been an improvement over the FROR design for ease of installation. I'd have the same expectations for any company that made this mistake.

blackdiamond · « **Reply #40 on:** Aug 10, 2011, 12:16:19 PM »

There are several possible technical issues related to this error. The biggest, in my opinion, is that the thread engagement into the hub body is less (it may still be adequate). Another issue is when stacking washers I would expect that the torque on the joint may be higher since the nut is loading the stud farther from the hub body (I'm thinking wheel spacers). It'll be interesting to see how many, if any at all, experience failures after choosing to not correct this.

ninja turtle · « **Reply #41 on:** Aug 10, 2011, 12:18:25 PM »

there is no washer stacking needed.

superyota · « **Reply #42 on:** Aug 10, 2011, 12:48:00 PM »

i installed mine backwards from what they suggested, so i'm in just as deep as stock. and also no washers stacked

superyota · « **Reply #43 on:** Aug 10, 2011, 12:55:40 PM »

i'm really suprised not to see more feedback on this. I personally know a hand full of guys running these studs that are on this board. Did no one ever question the thread length when they were putting them in? I guess putting them in backwards would be the same as getting the fror ones, you just have to double nut it to tighten them down. it's just the fact that they were made with the head on the wrong side, which i guess really isn't a big issue. but like black diamond said, it's the fact that they are telling people to put them in wrong to compensate for a mistake.

mudmaster · « **Reply #44 on:** Aug 10, 2011, 02:42:42 PM »

Quote from: superyota on Aug 10, 2011, 11:58:12 AM

no, I forgot to ask. I just pm'ed him again. I'll post up as soon as I hear something from him.

I think I have it at home still. I can look when I get home if need be.

superyota · « **Reply #45 on:** Aug 10, 2011, 03:36:29 PM »

brian just pm'ed me back. he refered me to this link... http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=994469

no i just need to read it.

superyota · « **Reply #46 on:** Aug 10, 2011, 03:40:51 PM »

here it is......!!!!

2. These and all critical fasteners need to be properly torqued. Stock torque on the hubs studs is 23ft/lb. Stock torque on the knuckle studs is 71 ft/lbs. Remember, clamping force is what makes this all happen. Torqueing to stock specs is only going to yield strength results close to stock. Yes the fasteners are stronger, and a much better material, but only a little in sheer. The real results come from tensile, thus being able to be torqued higher, and create a higher clamping force. We recommend OUR ARP HUB STUDS to 28-30 ft/lbs, and OUR ARP KNUCKLE STUDS to 110 ft/lbs. The stock nuts and most of what you find at the local hardware store will not take this torque, which is why we have ALWAYS included CLASS 10 locking nuts with our kits.

jrock · « **Reply #47 on:** Aug 10, 2011, 04:05:59 PM »

So where do I fing class 10 nuts?

superyota · « **Reply #48 on:** Aug 10, 2011, 04:07:55 PM »

i'm going to wait til I get back to bakersfield and go to either budget bolt or american bolt. want me to pick you up a pair? i'll give them to you at the roundup?

crazykooter · « **Reply #49 on:** Aug 10, 2011, 05:40:00 PM »

Im pretty sure the stock nuts will handle 30 pounds of torque and hold fine.
I would just run them eddie. You will be much stronger then stock.

mudmaster · « **Reply #50 on:** Aug 10, 2011, 08:19:41 PM »

Quote from: crazykooter on Aug 10, 2011, 05:40:00 PM

Im pretty sure the stock nuts will handle 30 pounds of torque and hold fine.
I would just run them eddie. You will be much stronger then stock.

I agree!!

toe · « **Reply #51 on:** Aug 10, 2011, 08:28:09 PM »

http://www.cncexpo.com/MetricBoltTorque.aspx

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