Author Topic: 20r/22r, a few issues need some help/advice (Read 21505 times)

live4soccer7 · « **Reply #60 on:** Jun 23, 2011, 02:28:32 AM »

Got the degree wheel yesterday. I plan to dig into it again today and hopefully put the cam deal to rest and then just be left with timing and carb adjustments. Any tips or pointers on cam install?

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #61 on:** Jun 23, 2011, 03:48:34 AM »

Quote from: live4soccer7 on Jun 23, 2011, 02:28:32 AM

Got the degree wheel yesterday. I plan to dig into it again today and hopefully put the cam deal to rest and then just be left with timing and carb adjustments. Any tips or pointers on cam install?

use lots of that prelube it came with and while the cam is off make sure the oiling holes under the cam (that go between the passenger side head bolt holes and the cam journals) are clean.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #62 on:** Jun 23, 2011, 05:27:50 AM »

are you replacing the valve springs with new ones at this time? i was told by several companies hwni was looking for a cam, that should be doen at the time of the new cam

live4soccer7 · « **Reply #63 on:** Jun 23, 2011, 10:34:04 AM »

No, all the items are practically brand new as well. Engine was fully rebuild not too long ago. I just want a different cam. They will also tell you that you need new rocker arms as well. I'm sure that all of those things brand new would be the ideal way to go b/c they will fully wear together, but it isn't practically when you are looking for a motor to last ya for the next 5 years or so (not 25 like the originals). This is my opinion anyways. If I were to be building an extreme performance motor then I may go with all new stuff, but I'm not racing or anything where it will get driven to the max often.

live4soccer7 · « **Reply #64 on:** Jun 23, 2011, 08:56:34 PM »

I just took a look at the FSM for the install of the camshaft and I need a different torque wrench, so I'm out to go get one that I can use with the bearing caps. It will be a good tool to have anyways. I'm going to go with the gearwrench 85050 1/4 25-200 in-lbs. It has great reviews all around and is not a large one, so it will be good in small areas as well when needed in the future. I will begin the install as soon as I get the tool.

live4soccer7 · « **Reply #65 on:** Jun 24, 2011, 10:57:23 AM »

Ok, so I can't pick up the torque wrench I want locally. What are your thoughts on torquing the bearing cap bolts on the camshaft to 20 ft-lbs instead of what the FSM calls for, 16 ft-lbs?

Edit: just found one

live4soccer7 · « **Reply #66 on:** Jun 26, 2011, 10:47:00 AM »

I've got it installed. Still need to degree it in though and check for piston to valve clearance via lc engineering's method.

When I pulled the last two headbolts all the coolant leaked. Now I was told that if the head gasket seal was broken then it should be replaced. The head didn't come off and in fact couldn't even see that it lifted besides that fact that coolant came out. Should it be replaced or let it go the way it is? I have it together now b/c I need to check clearances and stuff before anything else is done.

live4soccer7 · « **Reply #67 on:** Jun 27, 2011, 09:38:32 AM »

The specs for the pro torquer cam that LC has listed are not correct at all, very disappointing. I talked with them and they are sending a new spec sheet over to me, but I would have preferred to have gotten the cam that the specs stated as they had a good duration and overlap. We will see where the new specs sit the cam.

live4soccer7 · « **Reply #68 on:** Jun 28, 2011, 01:07:15 PM »

Latest update on the project. The cam from LC is not what they said, so it will be going back and either original cam back in or a different one if I can find one that will suite the situation better.

live4soccer7 · « **Reply #69 on:** Jun 28, 2011, 02:32:05 PM »

This is the new cam I will be looking at:

http://www.lceperformance.com/Camshaft-20R-22R-RE-RET-Stage-2-Cam-p/1022036.htm

They still have the centerline incorrect on the exhuast for their info, so I would definitely check all your cam data before buying and then call and make sure again with them b/c they seem to have the real spec data on these things.

I believe this cam would be great as well, but the lift is higher than what you can run with stock valve train, so I don't want to spend the $$ to upgrade. However with the first cam I listed in this post the long duration could cause an interference issue, so I'll have to do some more research and see if it will work w/o piston/valve interference.

http://www.lceperformance.com/Camshaft-20R-22R-RE-RET-Mild-Stage-2-Cam-p/1022030.htm

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #70 on:** Jun 28, 2011, 02:46:07 PM »

Quote from: live4soccer7 on Jun 26, 2011, 10:47:00 AM

I've got it installed. Still need to degree it in though and check for piston to valve clearance via lc engineering's method.

When I pulled the last two headbolts all the coolant leaked. Now I was told that if the head gasket seal was broken then it should be replaced. The head didn't come off and in fact couldn't even see that it lifted besides that fact that coolant came out. Should it be replaced or let it go the way it is? I have it together now b/c I need to check clearances and stuff before anything else is done.

the headgasket in more than likely crap. install a new one.

thats the cam I am running http://www.lceperformance.com/Camshaft-20R-22R-RE-RET-Stage-2-Cam-p/1022036.htm

your pistons will need to be notched.

live4soccer7 · « **Reply #71 on:** Jun 28, 2011, 03:13:52 PM »

coyote, did you upgrade your valve train with the LCE stage 2 cam?

live4soccer7 · « **Reply #72 on:** Jun 29, 2011, 10:02:38 PM »

This is a little off topic, but what do you recommend for 33's as far as gears go? I just picked up a set of 33x12.5 last night.

live4soccer7 · « **Reply #73 on:** Jul 21, 2011, 05:49:34 PM »

coyote, what did you end up doing with the pcv valve and the front vent on the top of the valve cover?

I was taking a look at the diagrams in the FSM and it seems that the PCV should be connected to the intake mani and the front vent on the cover should be connected to the air cleaner/filter.

I was thinking of routing a hose from the pcv to the back of the intake mani where it would relieve the crank pressure directly into the middle of the mani. My thinking is that it will distribute this additional air between all cylinders instead of being biassed towards one or a pair of cylinders.

The other vent valve I was going to route to the air cleaner on the weber b/c in the diagram is shows that it has air moving in both directions for this opening and the vacuum (if there is any) may help move the air in a particular direction. I have noticed that some people will put a filter right on top of the this spot and call it day.

My current setup has a filter on the front vent and the pcv is routed to the air cleaner/filter.

any tips/advice?

wakkjobb · « **Reply #74 on:** Jul 21, 2011, 08:45:28 PM »

I think Glen has a plain breather on the PCV spot; just let the vapors flow.

live4soccer7 · « **Reply #75 on:** Jul 22, 2011, 12:15:42 PM »

wasn't sure if any vacuum assist was optimum. I may try this route and see how it works.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #76 on:** Jul 22, 2011, 06:07:09 PM »

Quote from: wakkjobb on Jul 21, 2011, 08:45:28 PM

I think Glen has a plain breather on the PCV spot; just let the vapors flow.

no, my weber came with a block off plate that has a port so the pcv goes in directly under the carb in the middle of the intake.

the front did have a small filter on it but it oozed oil all the time so I hooked it up into the weber breather like showed in the install instructions.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #77 on:** Jul 22, 2011, 06:09:08 PM »

Quote from: live4soccer7 on Jul 21, 2011, 05:49:34 PM

coyote, what did you end up doing with the pcv valve and the front vent on the top of the valve cover?

I was taking a look at the diagrams in the FSM and it seems that the PCV should be connected to the intake mani and the front vent on the cover should be connected to the air cleaner/filter.

this is how I have mine.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #78 on:** Jul 22, 2011, 06:11:04 PM »

Quote from: live4soccer7 on Jun 28, 2011, 03:13:52 PM

coyote, did you upgrade your valve train with the LCE stage 2 cam?

no, but Ive dropped a valve at 7200 rpm ruining a head befor too. so the strong valves arent a bad idea.

live4soccer7 · « **Reply #79 on:** Jul 24, 2011, 05:34:06 PM »

I will go ahead and try and hook it up that way. I've got oil spewing out of the filter on the front of mine as well. Nothing too crazy, but enough to make a little mess on my valve cover over a little time. Thanks for your time again. If I had notched pistons, I would definitely go with that same cam, but I don't and I'm not going to put the money and time into it at the moment.

It is running well now and just trying to put some miles on it to see if I will run into any problems. Also working on a lift that just arrived and a set of 33's as well. Might be upgrading to 35's after the lift is on though. After I get it the way I want, I will regear accordingly.

live4soccer7 · « **Reply #80 on:** Jul 27, 2011, 03:02:00 PM »

The engine loves the new PCV system that I just changed. It definitely couldn't have been venting the pressure correctly. I thought I had a rear main seal leak, but now it seems that it has disappeared b/c there isn't a single drop of oil under the truck. It was probably forcing the oil through the seal. There is also a noise from the engine that has disappeared when driving.

I have the pcv going to the intake right behind the carb in the middle and then the vent on the front of the valve cover is going to the air filter.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #81 on:** Jul 31, 2011, 08:38:16 PM »

Quote from: live4soccer7 on Jul 27, 2011, 03:02:00 PM

The engine loves the new PCV system that I just changed. It definitely couldn't have been venting the pressure correctly. I thought I had a rear main seal leak, but now it seems that it has disappeared b/c there isn't a single drop of oil under the truck. It was probably forcing the oil through the seal. There is also a noise from the engine that has disappeared when driving.

I have the pcv going to the intake right behind the carb in the middle and then the vent on the front of the valve cover is going to the air filter.

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