Author Topic: Timing Chain jumped teeth/ No comp. #1-2 (Read 3583 times)

Fisch_Taco · « **on:** May 14, 2011, 12:29:36 PM »

I replaced the TC, guides and tensioner on my truck a couple weeks ago and now I've got big problems. Its an 85 pick up with 22re.

After I replaced the chain I noticed a pinging when I was on the freeway in 5th gear. The pinging would only happen under load in 5th gear.
The engine let go when I was on the freeway. Once I got it home I did a compression test and found that 1 & 2 cylinders had less than 10psi. 3 & 4 tested in the 160's.

First thing I found was a loose bolt on the water pump. One of the long ones that goes thru the TC cover to the block.

I think this may be the start of my problem. With this bolt being loose, wouldn't it let coolant and oil to mix?

How the hell do you get the intake manifold off?? I have all the bolts out. I have all wire and hoses disconnected. The metal pipe that connects right in the middle of the intake flange is disconnected and pulled out of the housing. It has some play but I just cant break the seal.

zippo · « **Reply #1 on:** May 14, 2011, 01:14:15 PM »

There is a little allen head bolt on the front third of the intake manifold. It gets covered in grease and it can be hard to find. look around the themostate housing area.

As far at it jumping 6 teeth i have no idea...

jimbo74 · « **Reply #2 on:** May 14, 2011, 01:16:16 PM »

it is probably going to need a full rebuild

don't skimp, it is your engine......

download or buy an fsm for it, it will take you step through step of the teardown with diagrams

Fisch_Taco · « **Reply #3 on:** May 14, 2011, 04:12:54 PM »

Found that bolt. Its on the front of the T-stat housing right behind the fuel rail. The chain wasn't off a tooth. I was on the exhaust stroke not comp. My HG has about a 3/4" channel between the 1st and 2nd piston.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #4 on:** May 15, 2011, 05:21:19 PM »

Quote from: Fisch_Taco on May 14, 2011, 04:12:54 PM

Found that bolt. Its on the front of the T-stat housing right behind the fuel rail. The chain wasn't off a tooth. I was on the exhaust stroke not comp. My HG has about a 3/4" channel between the 1st and 2nd piston.

Fisch_Taco · « **Reply #5 on:** May 17, 2011, 04:01:24 PM »

Quote from: 79coyotefrg on May 15, 2011, 05:21:19 PM

per your request

zippo · « **Reply #6 on:** May 17, 2011, 04:42:26 PM »

What brand head gasket?

Isn't that the new in thing? share compression between the cylinders 1 and 2? improved fuel economy!

no really nice pic

yotarunner85 · « **Reply #7 on:** May 17, 2011, 04:47:03 PM »

Mabe a warped head or block. Incorrect head bolt torque or head bolts loosened. Mechine the head and block if needed, get a new head gasket & head bolts, and put it back togather. Take your time, use a shop manuel and good luck.

Fisch_Taco · « **Reply #8 on:** May 17, 2011, 06:27:51 PM »

Quote from: zippo on May 17, 2011, 04:42:26 PM

What brand head gasket?

Isn't that the new in thing? share compression between the cylinders 1 and 2? improved fuel economy!

no really nice pic

I'm not sure what brand that one is. Putting a Rock HG back on.

With the engine pinging the way it was, the timing was to far advanced. I drove it to much before I set it to 12* BTDC and it went BOOM

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #9 on:** May 19, 2011, 09:19:11 AM »

that looks like a felpro to me

do your self a favor and get the hg from a dealership itll last longer youll be happy you did in the end

Fisch_Taco · « **Reply #10 on:** May 19, 2011, 05:49:32 PM »

Do I NEED to use a felt gasket when reinstalling my timing chain cover or can I only use RTV sealant?

yotarunner85 · « **Reply #11 on:** May 19, 2011, 06:08:53 PM »

I would use a gasket, because I wouldn't want to do the job again if the RTV didn't work.

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #12 on:** May 19, 2011, 10:48:15 PM »

Quote from: yotarunner85 on May 19, 2011, 06:08:53 PM

I would use a gasket, because I wouldn't want to do the job again if the RTV didn't work.

x2 but a minimal amount of rtv will fill inpurietys in the metal and help seal better

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #13 on:** May 23, 2011, 09:22:36 PM »

the rock HG will do a fine job.

Fisch_Taco · « **Reply #14 on:** May 27, 2011, 03:17:02 PM »

Now that I got all back together and running I'm getting a knock sensor code, and my temp gauge doesn't move from the cold setting.

I pulled my T-stat and it opens and closes like it should. Belt around the water pump is tight. Could the KS code cause the temp gauge to not read correctly?

zippo · « **Reply #15 on:** May 27, 2011, 03:39:05 PM »

Could be a bad temp sensor. They are cheap. But if you look in the FSM is tells you how to check them. Something todo with the stove, water and a volt meter.

Fisch_Taco · « **Reply #16 on:** May 27, 2011, 04:00:51 PM »

Well I broke one of the connectors for one of the temp sensors that are at the front of the engine below the TPS. I just plugged it back in and used some elect. tape to secure it. Maybe I'm not getting a good enough connection with it like that.

I also noticed those temp switches turn fairly easily. Is that normal? Do they need to be a specific position to work properly?

zippo · « **Reply #17 on:** May 27, 2011, 05:09:14 PM »

It's shouldn't spin. I would replace them. Like I said they are cheap. If you are getting crazy temp readings it could cause alot of weird problems and errors.

Fisch_Taco · « **Reply #18 on:** May 29, 2011, 04:21:36 PM »

I replaced the engine temp sensor and the temp gauge still doesn't work. I have a sensor on the top of my T-stat housing outlet tube with a single green wire coming from it. I'm going to replace this next. Is this the sensor that controls the temp gauge? I can't find it in my haynes manual or on the fsm that is posted on this site.

Is it OK to drive? I know my t-stat works and I'm getting good pressure in the upper radiator hose.

Uncle Jesse · « **Reply #19 on:** Jun 11, 2011, 08:29:30 AM »

The gauge sender is usually the one towards the center of the intake manifold flange area

Fisch_Taco · « **Reply #20 on:** Jun 23, 2011, 07:00:11 PM »

I got it fixed. My gauge sender was bad. I put an Equux gauge in and it works fine. Stays at 180* even when its been 115* the last few days here.

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