Author Topic: $2000 4.3 Swap Instructions (Read 22454 times)

golana · « **Reply #30 on:** Jun 03, 2011, 08:25:12 AM »

very nice

i put my 4.3L TBI in my brother's 2wd toyota! then he bought another 2wd toyota, and i got my engine back, with the frame and everything.

i used the stock toyota motor mounts, and a set of chevy motor mounts... i cut the chevy ones up and welded them to the toyota mount. easy and cheap

good luck with the build! ill be keeping my eye on this.

P.S. have fun with gauges (unless youre going aftermarket), we ended up swapping the entire chevy cluster into the truck, along with 90% of the chevy harness. we were on a tight deadline though, so the whole swap only took about 2 weeks haha

THK Matt · « **Reply #31 on:** Jun 03, 2011, 12:33:17 PM »

Quote from: 4runnerchevy on Jun 02, 2011, 08:35:32 PM

Yeah, sure ! Your having too much fun in you new rig. Good luck on your neeew venture !

Well my DD will need a new engine before too long, 3.4 or the 4.3L

CapitaCrawler · « **Reply #32 on:** Jun 05, 2011, 03:20:22 PM »

Well I started to put on the slickfit headers and ran into a clearance problem on both sides with a few items. First was the water plug on the RH side. I grinded down the head of the plug to make it flush with the block. There was still enough depth in the internal pocket to get it out if need be but highly doubt Im going to have the need. Also there is a sensor on the bottom that was in the way. So I grinded a bit off the top and inboard side towards the block. Install gasket and tighten from center bots outward. On the LH side there is the same bottom sensor that needed to be grinded a bit but also instead of a water plug there was a sensor. I removed the sensor and installed a water plug. Then grinded the crap out of it like I did the right side. Next I am working on welding and cleaning up the welds getting the mounts ready to be painted as so not to have surface rust. Thats pretty much where im at now and next will be installing radiator and cooling. Along with routing the return fuel line which will be a 3/8" HP line.

CapitaCrawler · « **Reply #33 on:** Jun 05, 2011, 03:28:50 PM »

Golana. Im really not on that tight of a schedule but it is taking quite a long time. But im going to keep the dash stock. Im going to install a potentiometer onto the input to calibrate my stock tach and I will be reusing my oil pressure and water sensors. These mounts will be pretty solid and shouldnt have a prob

brockbuilt85 · « **Reply #34 on:** Jun 05, 2011, 03:43:35 PM »

i was just talking to a buddy about doing this, im taking some notes here, good score on the donor blazer!

CapitaCrawler · « **Reply #35 on:** Jun 05, 2011, 06:01:08 PM »

yeah thanks. my luck will be that I get it running and after about 30 min of running I sling 3 rods and crack the block

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #36 on:** Jun 05, 2011, 06:13:03 PM »

Quote from: CapitaCrawler on Jun 05, 2011, 06:01:08 PM

yeah thanks. my luck will be that I get it running and after about 30 min of running I sling 3 rods and crack the block

Great build, looks like those headers get cramped. 4.3 is a really reliable motor, except for the CPI issues. It will start and you will be happy, without slinging any rods !

CapitaCrawler · « **Reply #37 on:** Jun 06, 2011, 02:10:23 PM »

yeah everyone ive talked to about the eng says it is quite reliable. And those headers are quite cramped but not too bad

CapitaCrawler · « **Reply #38 on:** Jun 07, 2011, 04:51:33 PM »

Well I got off my ass and installed my radiator and got a 16" electric fan which ran me $50. I plumbed in all my cooling so that can be crossed off the list. Im pretty sure all im down to is wiring. I routed my fuel return line from the intake to the stock hard return line on the passenger side. Im sure it'll hold the pressure and amount of fuel flow but ill post later if it dosent.

CapitaCrawler · « **Reply #39 on:** Jun 08, 2011, 02:46:43 PM »

I got my serpentine belt installed. Took me a few trys to get the right one but finally got it. Its a 13/16" x 75 5/8" OC. Remember I took off the AC compressor so if you go the same route then this should be the same belt you need. I dont need AC being as how my top comes off and so do the doors. I hooked up my fuel pump below the passenger side seat on the inside rail and plumbed it with 3/8" HP EFI fuel line. The stock wires to the original fuel pump go from the cab to the underside of the truck just below the seat. I spliced into those and used them for pump. They should be a white (-) and blue with white strip (+). I will be adding these to the new harness and comp from the blazer. I already had the pump and lines so I didnt count that against the budget but if you dont have one your stock EFI pump in the tank shall suffice from what ive read. But I took out the stock fuel pump from inside the tank and put a piece of 3/8" line going from the top of the housing down to a little fuel filter bag that came off the stock fuel pump. This way I get zero flow interuption from inside the take to the eng. I couldnt keep the stock fuel pump in the take with the external pump. I dont think I mentioned it but with the power steering I used the return line off the motor to the hard line loop in front of the radiator and reused the lines comming off the return and pressure side of the power steering box. Take off the pressure hard line off the pump and use the toyota one from the steering box. After that, power steering is done until I start it and hopefully all works well. I fit checked the hood to make sure I didnt have to modify it. It closed with a slam but the top of the motor was comming into contact with the support stiffeners under the hood. I chopped out a little section of the stiffeners and the hood closes with no interuption. You can see where I cut out in the pictures.I will be doing a recap in a few of the swap in a nut shell along with updated parts and $$ list. As of right now I believe I am all set with the exception of the wiring which I will be getting back from my friend and hooking that up.

CapitaCrawler · « **Reply #40 on:** Jun 08, 2011, 03:30:50 PM »

Heres the parts and junk you'll most likely need. Well at least what I needed. And along with my budget and such

1. Engine. Donor 95 Blazer -$400
2. Starter -Free ($75 at local parts store. Remember to get 153 tooth starter)
3. Engine mounts -$90 (Advance Adapters)
4. Bellhousing adapter kit -$460 (Advance Adapters)
5. Slickfit Headers -$220 (Advance Adapters)
6. Slave Cylinder -$39 (online. Look for one off a Land Cruiser)
7. Throw-out Bearing and Pressure Plate -$100 (got a clutch kit from local parts store from an 89 camaro w/ 350 eng)
8. 153 tooth flywheel -$80 (rockauto.com got it off an 89 camaro also)
9. 10.5" clutch disk -$122
10. Serpentine Belt -$30
11. Radiator -$120 (speedwaymotor.com I got a 22" x 19" Item #: 917347)

CapitaCrawler · « **Reply #41 on:** Jun 08, 2011, 03:37:03 PM »

12. Fuel Fittings -$30 ( JEGS part #DFI 74730 and 90 barb from Summit part #SUM-220711)
13. Electric 16" Fan -$50 (local autoparts store)\

Total $1741
Left over budget $259

There will be minor hardware you may have to aquire but thats not going to be counted. Also I saved $350 from not buying a wire harness which my friend is cutting out everything I dont need from it.

66cobra · « **Reply #42 on:** Jun 08, 2011, 05:44:54 PM »

your motor mounts didn't come with poly bushings mine are the same and came with.

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #43 on:** Jun 08, 2011, 06:00:55 PM »

Why take the AC pump out ? They make great OBA compressors!

CapitaCrawler · « **Reply #44 on:** Jun 08, 2011, 07:27:20 PM »

They did but my motor sat too high and I didnt want to do a body lift or modify my hood. The way its sitting now is pretty good. I kept the brackets for it and the compressor along with the belt incase later on I wanted to go to it but I have my little compressor that does just fine for now. My next project is turning my smitty bumper into a storage tank with fittings on the end caps.

COToy91 · « **Reply #45 on:** Jun 08, 2011, 09:28:09 PM »

Quote from: CapitaCrawler on Jun 08, 2011, 07:27:20 PM

They did but my motor sat too high and I didnt want to do a body lift or modify my hood. The way its sitting now is pretty good. I kept the brackets for it and the compressor along with the belt incase later on I wanted to go to it but I have my little compressor that does just fine for now. My next project is turning my smitty bumper into a storage tank with fittings on the end caps.

The harrison AC compressor will burn up in minutes if you use it for OBA, even if you have a pre-oiler

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #46 on:** Jun 09, 2011, 04:59:39 AM »

Quote from: COToy91 on Jun 08, 2011, 09:28:09 PM

The harrison AC compressor will burn up in minutes if you use it for OBA, even if you have a pre-oiler

I call bull crap, I have been using mine for years.

CapitaCrawler · « **Reply #47 on:** Jun 09, 2011, 02:08:57 PM »

my friend had one on his truck and he said the same thing. Worked like a champ. Wasnt the same one off a 4.3 but still worked just fine so i would assume the one off the 4.3 would hold up since its beefier than the one he used

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #48 on:** Jun 09, 2011, 03:03:47 PM »

Quote from: CapitaCrawler on Jun 09, 2011, 02:08:57 PM

my friend had one on his truck and he said the same thing. Worked like a champ. Wasnt the same one off a 4.3 but still worked just fine so i would assume the one off the 4.3 would hold up since its beefier than the one he used

I have an oiler in-line and it has never let me down yet.

Great build Capita, looking forward to seeing more. I might be building another, 4.3 TBI this time, into a 1985 truck.

CapitaCrawler · « **Reply #49 on:** Jun 09, 2011, 05:03:25 PM »

Yeah thanks. Im down to wiring and im stoked to get this piece out of the garage

CapitaCrawler · « **Reply #50 on:** Jul 21, 2011, 04:49:16 PM »

Its been quite a while since last post but got all wiring done and cleaned up. Me and my friend hot wired it up before cutting down the harness and fired up first time. Cleaned up the harness and put a relay on fan. Drove it today to the exhaust shop to get y-pipe with o2 bunghole to flowmaster 2.5 in all the way back. Quoted me at $250 so that really leaves me at approx $9 left over. I also had to purchase a new intake hose and filter which ran me $60 so actually im -$51. I know ive made more trips to the auto store to get odd hardware here and there but still. I have yet to sell off my old 22re which hopefully ill get around 500 for, plus 150ish for the tranny out of the blazer, scrap the blazer and the cat from that and my old cat from the runner for about 3-400 so total back into budget for around $1000 total for the swap. If you count your personal time as cash then i was way the hell over. Ill post pictures and prob a link to a video of it running and crap

CapitaCrawler · « **Reply #51 on:** Aug 02, 2011, 08:27:56 AM »

Got it out of the garage and runs like a champ. Super pleased with the outcome. A ton more power and dont have to worry about downshifting up hills. Plus I believe with the weight of the eng, it got rid of my speed wobble between 30-40 mph.

CapitaCrawler · « **Reply #52 on:** Aug 02, 2011, 08:29:50 AM »

and some

fordh8r · « **Reply #53 on:** Sep 21, 2011, 06:37:56 PM »

Just read your swap thread. Very nice! I just acquired a donor vehicle for the same swap and did some searching and found this. Glad to hear you're pleased with the overall product and I'm looking forward to the same results from mine!

Couple of questions...

Was there much difference in the weight of the 2 engines and did it affect your front ride height at all?

Also, what about your radiator hoses, were they from a different application or were they of a similar application the 4.3l came from?

Thanks!

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