replacing 3.0L, what should I replace while it's out

[S14]

I've got a new to me 3.0L sitting in the back of my truck right now that will soon be sitting in my 4runner engine bay.

what parts should I replace while the motor is easy to work on while on the engine stand?

I'm thinking of a timing belt, and a water pump, but what else should I replace?


also anybody in the fresno area want to help R&R a motor? I pay well in beer

[KustomKhaos]

Valve cover gaskets, rear main, timing belt, water pump, and inspect the manifold gaskets and crossover pipe real close. I am probly forgeting something.

[Huhwhye]

I would send the injectors out to RC engineering.  That's  who I use, go to them direct.  Everyone else just sends their stuff to them anyway and charges you more money and claims as their own, Downey, NWOR, LC all use RC as far as I know.

It's cheap and they have a quick turnaround. about $25 an injector

www.rceng.com

[kneedownnate]

Good headers and crossover pipe, now's probably the best time to do it, and if you plan on keepin the 3.0 you might as well make it more powerful.  I've heard good things about the Downey headers,    Nate

[S14]

I'm not in the market for headers (contemplating a home brew turbo later on)

why would I need to send the injectors to RC engineering?

the motor came out of a running 94 runner with 88,000 miles on it.

I was thinking of new water pump, VC gaskets, rear main, timming belt, intake and exhaust gaskets.  I'd rather not pull the head if I don't have too, I'm trying to keep this motor swap under 2k, and I'm already $900 into it without buying any extra parts other than the motor

[Huhwhye]

They clean the injectors and match all the flow rates.  Even from the factory they didn't flow the same.  And I bet with 80k on them they are not even close.  You may have some at 80%, some at 60%, some at 20%.  While the motor is out and apart it is easy to do.

for $150 thats cheap, and the engine will run smoother and get better mileage.  The dealer will charge you that much to "clean" the injectors.  And all they do is run a cleaning solution thru them

Whenever I rebuilt an injected motor I have it done.  And I am always suprised with the flow rates.  Sometimes you find one of your injectors is leaking externally and need to be replaced.  Then I buy used injectors off Ebay and have those cleaned.  If you send RC a bad injector they wont charge you for it.  They'll give you a chance to find a replacement.  That happend with my turbo motor, 2 injectors were not serviceable, they were leaking externally.

[Uncle Jesse]

While your there replacing the timing belt, replace any idlers or tensioners that the belt runs on.  YOu'd hate to get that engine in then have a 80K idler pully lockup and ruin your timing belt.

[4rox]

I'm not in the market for headers (contemplating a home brew turbo later on)

why would I need to send the injectors to RC engineering?

the motor came out of a running 94 runner with 88,000 miles on it.

I was thinking of new water pump, VC gaskets, rear main, timming belt, intake and exhaust gaskets.  I'd rather not pull the head if I don't have too, I'm trying to keep this motor swap under 2k, and I'm already $900 into it without buying any extra parts other than the motor

I'd check to see if the head gaskets were part of that campaign Toyota had awhile back.The 3 litre is notorious for blowing.While the motor is out would be the best time to replace them.Just buy a head gasket set cause it has all the gaskets you're gonna need.Just my  .

[Northern Runner]

While its apart inspect the knock sense wire as well. They have a tendency to crack. Easy fix while it is out, but a huge pain in the ass later...

[4rox]

While its apart inspect the knock sense wire as well. They have a tendency to crack. Easy fix while it is out, but a huge pain in the ass later...

Not to mention the pcv valve-the plenum covers all of this stuff up so you only want to do this once

[FATB0Y]

you guys forgot the OIL PUMP ! and strainer.

[Northern Runner]

Come to think of it, while it's out!!
Replace it with something else   
Sorry, just been there 

[Snowtoy]

A factory service manual should be on the top of your list, if you don't already have one.

Since you have 2k to work with, I would pull the heads and have them redone, unless you have confirmedthe  compression numbers prior to the new engine being pulled.  The 3.0's tend to burn the #6 exhaust valve.  The last thing you want to do is have to pull the heads after you have gone through the swap.  A good shop shouldn't charge more than $500-600 to completely rebuild and set the valves, can be done if they pre-install the new head bolt before installing the cam, or if you go with studs. 

If the comp. number were good, I would reconsider a set of Downey headers.  They will help the engine breath better, and if you are planning some type of turbo set up, headers will be all but mandator.  I installed a set on my TRuck last spring after rebuilding the top end, and they have helped.  I am not sure of the actual HP gain, but my 4600lbs(5200lbs when loaded with gear and passengers) truck up the hills a lot better with them, then before.

I also agree about having the injectors rebuilt/balanced, it is worth the extra $230-250.  A lean running injector can aslo cause burnt valves(from what I have been told).

Basically if you can swing it, replace everything you can now.  This way once the engine is in, you should have nothing to worry about for the next 100k.