Topic: 3.4 or 4.3

[SWAMPER]

The cheapes quoted price for a 3.4 I found was 2400 while I got quoted 1400 for a 350 the 350 has a lifetime warranty though

[Skinny_Pedal]

what is this lifetime warrentee? sorry but all motors will eventually die. so they just gonna give u a free motor. can u swap the motor if it goes bad? if it goes bad then u have to pay to have it swapped? c'mon swamp get real...the 350 swap would be just for the cool factor and u dont need it

[SWAMPER [OP]]

Actually they do get you a new motor if the old one is craped....and yes it will cost money to fix if it breaks so they cover 30 bucks per shop hour...meaning that if it takes 5 hrs to fix and the place charges 50 bucks per hour, total is 250 but since they pay 30 bucks of each hour...I only pay 100 bucks while they pay 150.....I was lucky to find this...trust me it took some looking for....cool factor heck yeah....but also can you beat the price and warranty?

[SWAMPER [OP]]

Im not saying that Im all for the 350 but out of all the routes its the one thats looking the best right now....

[FIREBALL]

I paid $850 for my '93 4.3 vortec cpi, with 80k. I love yota stuff, and I always hated the idea, and bashed the idea of swaping in another motor, but when it came down to $ and cents, I couldn't beat the power to $ ratio of the 4.3.

[FIREBALL]

A 350 is a whole lot of motor to try and keep cool in a small space. If your moving all the time it's ok, but when your crawlin in rocks in 85 deg wheather it's hard to keepem cool. And you have to move the rad forward to fit it too, that means cutting the core support and building a bracket for the hood latch usually.

[SWAMPER [OP]]

Excatly I could get the 350 engine w/o warranty for 970 but with the lifetime warranty it comes out to 1400...oh FYI just out of curiosity I asked how much a replacement 3.0 would cost and they quoted me 2500 w/0 worranty

[raybie]

to keep or kill the 3.slow is a guestion i often ponder.  on the upside to replace it is a easy striaght forward solution is you can't do the swap yourself or are not the best at mods/wiring/ect.

i looked at the 4.3, advanced adapters, if i remember, has motor mounts and the bell housing. painless for wiring.

I looked at the 3.4, bolts up to the 3.slow mounts and tranny, plus offroad solutions as a plug and play kit if you don't have the ambition to fab,wire,etc. yourself. aint cheap though. 

here's a few things i have considered about doing a swap or not
1. realiablity of staying 3.slow vs a swap
2. time the rig will be down, as it is my dd.
3. hidden cost, ya i've seen 3.4 and 4.3's for $600 or less but then the harnes, cooling system, ECU, intake, exhaust, etc.  the rebuilt cost of the 3.slow is a lot more defined.
4. clearance issues
5. and lastly do you realy want to do a swap or does more power just sound good.  there is no easy swap, granted some are easier than others, but there is always something to deal with once you step away from stock.  if more power just sounds cool i'd say don't do it.  you're probabley under the influence of horse power and haven't thought everything through    if you think the swap would be fun and you really want to do it and have thought everything through, then go for it.

 

[raybie]

one other thought, how dead is you dead cylinder?  I had one that drop to 90+/- psi, caught it early enought to get it back to 140+/- by doing a valve adjustment.  got another year and a half out of it. 

not to hijack but i have to rant for a minute.

i finaly thought it'd be wise to have the heads done, had a shop do it and its been a nightmare ever since, burns oil, leaks oil, and generally runs like crap     hate those guys.  they had my truck for almost a month and a half.  came highly recommended also. :bull crap:   and to top it off i had them do the clutch at the same time and they put the friction disk in backwards.            shoud have taken time off work and done it myself.  had to anyways.

[cgbemis]

Swamper,
     It is clear that you want to drop in some other type of motor, but in reality you won't be set-up to do it next week. So how long is your current motor going to run with a broken water pump? If it were me, I would get it fixed immediately before the whole motor is junked and you find yourself with no ride to work, and trying to figure out the cheapest way out of the mess you're in. Inevitably, the cheapest solution will not be the best.

[BLACKDOG]

fix the WP swampy, then worry about getting a new motor later

[FATB0Y]

fix the WP swampy, then worry about getting a new motor later

what he said

[4rox]

Excatly I could get the 350 engine w/o warranty for 970 but with the lifetime warranty it comes out to 1400...oh FYI just out of curiosity I asked how much a replacement 3.0 would cost and they quoted me 2500 w/0 worranty

I'd ditch the 3 litre just because their weak and the headgaskets go all the time.I just replaced one on my wifes 4runner which is just like yours.The 350 in mine fit like a glove without banging up the firewall.The hood latch stayed in the same spot but I had to make room for the electric fan though.Fabbed the motormounts and hooked up a few wires and fired it up.It runs at about 180' all the time.To make things easier,I'd do a s.a.s.The ifs is pretty lame and 99 % of the people on this forum will tell you the same.Good luck.

[lacrack]

I got quoted 1400 for a 350 the 350 has a lifetime warranty though

yes but if they find out that its from a truck that do off-road generaly they wont replace the motor since it was used off-road(ask me how I know!)

I brough a long block rebuilt 22r and it failled bc they did a crappy job of a rebuilt(4 month)they did not want to pay for geting the motor out-in so I had to do it my self and in the midle of the rebuilt they call me(the machine shop that sell the rebuilt to the store that I brough and say the motor was in a truck that is used off-road(they called the store, its right around the corner from my home and they told the machine shop that it was a off-road use only truck)and that there was 3/4" of sand in the oil pan and if they knew that the vehicule was a lifted truck they would not even begin the rebuilt job on the rebuilted engine,and it took 1 1/2 month to get my motor back and I had to call the shop every 3-4 days to be sure that they move there a$$!

so to long story,short make sure that they do not know that you use your truck off-road or make sure that it is writing on the warranty that it do not not matter that it see off-road!     

[BLACKDOG]

I'd ditch the 3 litre just because their weak and the headgaskets go all the time.I just replaced one on my wifes 4runner which is just like yours.The 350 in mine fit like a glove without banging up the firewall.The hood latch stayed in the same spot but I had to make room for the electric fan though.Fabbed the motormounts and hooked up a few wires and fired it up.It runs at about 180' all the time.To make things easier,I'd do a s.a.s.The ifs is pretty lame and 99 % of the people on this forum will tell you the same.Good luck.

I disagree on the reliability of the 3.0  It isnt the greatest engine, but it has been a very good, very reliable engine for me.  Aside from the head gasket recall, my truck has never had any problems with head gasket, and it has 186,000 miles or so on it.  I have 3 friends who both have the 3.0, and neither have had any problems with it either.  One of their trucks has almost 300,000 on it, and he has done nothing but regular maintenance ( ie oil, fluids, filters, belts, etc.)  I went from a 360v8 to the 3.0, and I was happy with the preformance.  I had to get used to not having the v8 power, but overall, it was not bad.  Also, i dont know what boat Swamper is in, but like myself, he is a younger member of the board.  I dont know if he has another vehicle, but personally I couldnt stand to have my truck down for an SAS and an engine right now timewise, nor could I afford it financially.  I would replace the Water pump, andknowing that a new engine needs to be coming soon, start saving up for it.    Then when I had more money/better job/another DD/won the lottery I would do the SAS, and the Engine Swap, both of which I personally intend to do as well.  I just dont know of too many people who at 19-20 years old can pull off a SAS/ engine swap w/o some serious financial assistance or fabrication skills.  Of course, I have no idea about your situation Swamper,  but this is just my     I'll shutup now

  

[SWAMPER [OP]]

I am fixing the water pump that was a MUST  in my list that way I have a ride to work and more time to think better about the swap


Hey whats involved in a 3.4 Swap....would I need an adapter for the engine to fit my tranny?

[79coyotefrg]

what we need to find out is if the supra auto and 4runner auto are alike
, he really needs this 5mge  in there, 

[79coyotefrg]

add a turbo on that and it would make a stock 350 cry mommy

[FATB0Y]

add a turbo on that and it would make a stock 350 cry mommy

Big time 

[SWAMPER [OP]]

[reklund5]

Swampy-

a 3.4 will bolt up to your existing tranny and motor mounts.  A little wiring and it'll run like it came in there.  350s are lame.  I know every redneck in Texas (no offense!) will tell you to stick a chebby motor in there and never look back.  The 3.4 is a way better engine and will be worth the cost to install.  I'd suggest a 97 engine, as the TRD blower will bolt up and plug in if you ever decide that you need more power.  As someone stated above, offroadsolutions.com offers a plug and play kit for installing a 3.4 into your 'Runner.

I've played the 5m/7m turbo motor game with the supras I've owned.  Yes, they'll murder a 350 but it'll cost you more than a 3.4 swap.  I promise.  My 400 HP Supra has 5k in the engine/engine management parts alone.  But it hauls ass 

Ryan

[SWAMPER [OP]]

ok the 3.4 is sounding very good now....

[brainlessfool]

now swampy yu'll just throw a chebby in there and be done!             

[FATB0Y]

Swampy ya need 2 check these out http://www.wiegand-liners.com/toyota-engines.html has a killer warranty and read the spec. sheet

[SWAMPER [OP]]

3000 bucks....no thanks

[FATB0Y]

mine is only $1650 

[TOYJOETA]

This might be a little off topic but does any one know the wieght difference between the 22re the 7m and the 3.4?

[Huhwhye]

I was reading the swap info on offroadsolutions.com and according to them you can't use your 3.0 tranny with a 3.4 since the computers, shifters, and transfer cases are different.  There swap kit says to use a 3.4 tranny from a 4wd, and a gear driven T-case from an early truck

http://www.offroadsolutions.com/technicalarticles/34l_conversion_kit_auto.htm

Sounds like some coin to do that swap right.

I like the idea of keeping it all Toyota but it sounds expensive if you need to buy a trans, T-case anyway

Toyota builds great motors at the Factory, but Joe Schmo at the rebuild shop doesn't neccessarily rebuild good Toyota motors.  Personally I will only use a motor that's either factory or built by me.  I rather do it myself and know what I'm getting.  I used to buy motors, but too many had problems.  Since I've been doing my own stuff, no problems.

I think a Vortec 4.3 using an early 700r4 trans would be the ticket.  Use the early trans to avoid having to deal with electonics.  A TV Cable operated 700r4 is a great trans.  No need to have a computer operated trans.  A 4.3 uses Small block parts, pistons, rods, valves, bearings and rings, timing covers.  Cheap to build.

Personally I think the ideal 4x4 motor is all iron, block and heads.  How many have warped an aluminum head in their yota.  All it takes is getting it hot one time and your dead.  That could be fatal on a trail.  At least with an iron motor if it gets hot you can shut it down and address the issue.  And if its a water pump, coolant hose you can fix it and chances are the motor is fine.  I met a guy that overheated his all aluminum Land Rover V8, warped the block.  "DOH!" just doesn't say enought in that situation.

But if you like aluminum, you can build an all aluminum 4.3 and I bet its still cheaper than a 3.4.  And if you want to add forced induction, it's available from the aftermarket or you can run a factory turbo a la GMC Typhoon.

And torque is king in a 4x4 truck not hp.  You could build a 500, 700, 1000hp small block chevy but that's not a good motor in a truck.  A stock Vortec injected motor is all you need either 4.3 or 5.7.

Sorry I was so long winded, I got on a roll

[SWAMPER [OP]]

Good info

[79coyotefrg]

This might be a little off topic but does any one know the wieght difference between the 22re the 7m and the 3.4?

the 7MGTE will weigh the most, close to a 350,  the 22R with its cast steel block and forged steel parts would be second,  i thinkj the shipping wieght on a complete 22 is around 400lbs