bearings or short-block--22R engine

[wakkjobb]

That's the question I am faced with; normally I'd yank the engine and rebuild it but since I am without job or money I'd like to do it the cheapest way possible (which I know isn't always the best way).
More details:
I run 10w30 oil, nothing fancy, normal oil filters
It has been driven less than an hour total after the knock started
Haven't run the engine low on oil or overheated it since I've had it (10 months so far)
It lives at 6,500' and wheels up to 12,000' if that makes any difference

So many dang options...
If I get it rebuilt, what's the max cylinder overbore?
Which cam to get "more power" from these 4-bangers?
Are steel timing guides worth it?
--side note: I found parts of mine in the oil pan when I got the truck; what a confidence-booster that was! 
How about oversized valves and other head work; like porting and so on?
Can EFI stuff be bolted to 20R heads? I see drilling/tapping in my future...

>>Dan

[hilux-1983]

No money or a job? Rod and main bearings, oil , oil filter and oil pan gasket. That's about as cheap as it gets to stop that knock. Doing it in the truck too will save pulling the motor.

[ROCKSTOMPER185]

just roll some over sized bearings in the rod that is nocking check it with plast a gage.Clean up the crank with emery cloth. As long as you didnt roll the bearing you may get a way with just puting in over sized bearings. Check to see what size bearings you need before you go get bearings. You may want to run luckis oil treatment in it that oil is realy good.

[wakkjobb]

Thanks for the info guys; I was  under the impression that o/s bearings required getting the rods/crank re-sized?

And I have some Lucas oil stuff in the shop now.

>>Dan

[2manytoys]

O/S bearings are for compensating for a turned down crank journal.

Re sizing the rods big end is to make sure it is round and within spec so you have proper clamping force on your bearings.

Small end on our 22R/RE gets a new bushing for the wrist pin.

If you put an oversize bearing in with a std crank you will probably spin it. Personally, I wouldn't do it.

If you did spin a bearing, the damage is done as soon as it happens. Done as, your crank and rod are now hammered. If you don't fix it right, you may end up with a hole in the block too.

Are you sure you spun a brg? What parts did you find in the pan?

[wakkjobb]

I don't think a bearing has spun; the engine started knocking so I haven't been driving it since September. The bits in the oil pan were formerly the timing chain guide; hooray for plastic. I didn't see any metal shavings either.


This just in: when the timing guides break will the engine make the same noise like a rod knock? What I mean is: maybe it's the timing chain and not a rod?

>>Dan

[2manytoys]

Pull the rocker cover and take a look down inside. Not only the chain but, the rockers too. See what can be making noise. Maybe all you need is a timing set.

Pull spark plugs for inspection. Got compression? Any oil or water? Easy stuff at this point.

If you need to go further, pull the timing cover and oil pan.

Another thing about spun brgs is loss of oil pressure, and you should have generated some metal. A spun rod brg sounds like a ball peen hammer whacking back and forth. It sounded EXACTLY like it on my 351 Ford and the oil light came on.

Cut open your oil filter, use a razor knife and cut out some of the pleats. Squeeze the oil out of it in a vise and see what you have trapped in the filter media.

How does the oil look? Any water, does it look metallic?

I hope you get lucky and only need a timing set.

Yes, I think the steel guides are worth it. If you don't have the money, the stock ones will get you by for a while.

[wakkjobb]

Gonna start checking stuff tomorrow; it'll be warmer outside. Here's hoping it's not what I think it is... 

[wakkjobb]

#4 rod bearing is wiped out. Hooray. Looks like the engine was rebuilt at one point (I am Captain Obvious) 'cause the bearings say USA and Jul 05 on them. Also the caps are marked 3 different ways: number punch, dots and Roman numerals. Awesome. When I pulled the oil pan there were more bits of timing chain guide at the bottom and a bunch of pretty little sparkly stuff. Awesomer. Luckily the crank looks/feels okay; I didn't run the engine long since the noise started so here's hoping it'll clean up with some emery cloth and hope. As for the timing chain guides I'm leaning towards the steelie dealies instead of the plastic (really Toyota? Plastic??) pieces.

We shall see...
>>Dan

[hilux-1983]

Sounds good sooo far...........

[twistedtoy92]

just roll some over sized bearings in the rod that is nocking check it with plast a gage.Clean up the crank with emery cloth. As long as you didnt roll the bearing you may get a way with just puting in over sized bearings. Check to see what size bearings you need before you go get bearings. You may want to run luckis oil treatment in it that oil is realy good.

BIG NO NO. NEVER roll in O/S bearings without machining/matching..... thats like saying; " Aww hell, she's smokin like a chiminy, throw some bacon fat in the main and rod bearings, buy some O/S pistons, clean up the crank and cylinder walls  with some coarse grit sandpaper, and make sure you run at least two quarts of 80/90 with every oil change too!"

But seriously, I'd recommend changing out your oil pump while you're at it and roll in new mains along with all new rod and thrust bearings... Then change your oil a couple times every few hundred miles to get all the fine metal shavings out. Be sure to use lubriplate when installing engine bearings, that stuff rocks! just my

[wakkjobb]

Thanks, I just picked up the rod bearings (Clevites for about $25/set) 3 new oil filters and 3 gallons of 10w30. Shop closed early so I couldn't wash out the oil pan today... boo hoo. If I end up doing an oil pump should I upgrade to the turbo pump? I've read (somewhere) it flows more oil or is better for some reason or another.

There's a 22R short block for $65 locally, early model, all apart. Tempted to buy it and rebuild it while the current engine sits with the band-aid bearing repair I'm doing.

Who the hell knows...
>>Dan

[2manytoys]

Wakkjobb ya jinxed me.

I just spun a rod bearing on my way to work. Luckily, I have a spare engine I bought from a rollover. SUPPOSEDLY recently rebuilt. Could be, since it has fresh brass freeze plugs and gaskets look new. Gonna have ta drop it in and keep my fingers crossed.

Did you get yours running?

[wakkjobb]

Sorry... that has happened to other members here: my truck gets sick and it spreads. Hooray, internet!

I changed the bearings but it's still knocking and it's not valve noise.  I picked up a complete 20R so I'm checking into the hybrid build; I should be able to pull it off for about $500 including machine work. I think... but that's dangerous. We'll see what happens later in the winter; trying to find a job.

>>Dan