Author Topic: tacoma idle (Read 9503 times)

toylife · « **on:** Apr 27, 2010, 02:38:51 PM »

my father has started driving his 2000 taco again and now it only idles at 1800 wgen it warms up i havent worked on these that much and need help. any ideas? its not like my 93,87,or 81. to much new stuff

.could use any ideas

jrock · « **Reply #1 on:** Apr 27, 2010, 03:24:14 PM »

What engine?

I have a similar issue with a T100 3.4L. It idles high, 1500-2000rpm, almost all the time. Every so often I can tap the accelerator and it will slowly come down to a normal idle. It's not my truck and my buddy said his mechanic told him it was a sensor that would cost $1000 to fix. F that!

emsvitil · « **Reply #2 on:** Apr 27, 2010, 04:12:54 PM »

Might just be a sticky throttle body..........

jrock · « **Reply #3 on:** Apr 27, 2010, 04:31:16 PM »

Could be. I haven't looked much into it yet. I plan to remove the MAF and clean the crap out of it and go from there. Might clean the Throttle body but as I was reading in another thread, there is an Idle thingy at the bottom of the Throttle body that can get clogged up from the dirt washed out of the throttle. I'd like to stay away from that

PS. Is it normal for a 3.4l to be gutless? I think my 22RE with a header has as much power as this thing.

toylife · « **Reply #4 on:** Apr 27, 2010, 06:51:53 PM »

you can pat the gas peddle and it will rev up and act like it wants to go to normal idle but in a second it goes back to 1800

snowrun · « **Reply #5 on:** Apr 28, 2010, 06:28:14 AM »

You probably want to try cleaning the AIC valve on the bottom of the throttle body. unbolt the TB, unplug AIC & remove to clean. It's a small barrel shaped valve with a cutout that turns to adjust airflow at idle. Clean AFM also, be sure to use electric parts cleaner.

BUDDERS · « **Reply #6 on:** Apr 28, 2010, 07:55:38 AM »

Quote from: snowrun on Apr 28, 2010, 06:28:14 AM

You probably want to try cleaning the AIC valve on the bottom of the throttle body. unbolt the TB, unplug AIC & remove to clean. It's a small barrel shaped valve with a cutout that turns to adjust airflow at idle. Clean AFM also, be sure to use electric parts cleaner.

X 2

It's definately the IAC valve on the bottom of the throttle body. I've had very little luck cleaning them out though - they always gum up again within the next 10k miles. Personally, I'd replace it if you can afford one. Get the gasket for it too. While you got the throttle body off, clean it out too, but take the TPS off before you do because brake cleaner and carbon run-off kills those things.

jrock · « **Reply #7 on:** Apr 28, 2010, 04:52:02 PM »

If you replace the AIC won't it just gum up again the same as if you clean it? Is there a more perminant fix?

BUDDERS · « **Reply #8 on:** Apr 28, 2010, 06:44:26 PM »

Quote from: jrock on Apr 28, 2010, 04:52:02 PM

If you replace the AIC won't it just gum up again the same as if you clean it? Is there a more perminant fix?

Yeah it will eventually - you'll probably put another 100k miles on it before it happens though. I was a tech for Toyota and Lexus for 11 years and I've had the ones I've cleaned out come back to bite me in the ass within a week or two.

As far as I know, there isn't a permanent fix for it. It was just a bad design from toyota. They should have made it with the IAC valve on top of the throttle body so all the carbon crap would be less likely to build up in it. As it is now, it's on the bottom of it and collects everything that gets past the air filter.

BTW, if you really want to clean it, brake cleaner or carb cleaner works better but you have to pull electrical side of it off first or you'll kill it. Take note of how it goes back on too. With the electrical stuff off of it, you can manually manipulate the barrel valve and spray it clean at the same time untill it moves smoothly. I've done this with my dad's camry cause he's to cheap to buy a new one and it usually lasts 10-20k miles.

jrock · « **Reply #9 on:** Apr 28, 2010, 07:03:57 PM »

Dang, that's it? Where this truck is, it likely won't last more than a few weeks. A new AIC is about $400, right?

BUDDERS · « **Reply #10 on:** Apr 28, 2010, 09:58:06 PM »

I'm not sure what the price is, I've never had to buy one for myself. I get employee prices anyway....

Also, make sure you use a impact screwdriver when to take the 4 screws out that mount it to the throttle body. They are in there really tight and the heads will strip out if you try and unscrew them with a normal amount of force. If you don't have one, clamp the throttle body in a vice and smack the back of the screwdriver with a hammer as you try and loosen it

.

emsvitil · « **Reply #11 on:** Apr 28, 2010, 10:05:57 PM »

Quote from: BUDDERS on Apr 28, 2010, 09:58:06 PM

I'm not sure what the price is, I've never had to buy one for myself. I get employee prices anyway....

Also, make sure you use a impact screwdriver when to take the 4 screws out that mount it to the throttle body. They are in there really tight and the heads will strip out if you try and unscrew them with a normal amount of force. If you don't have one, clamp the throttle body in a vice and smack the back of the screwdriver with a hammer as you try and loosen it .

Or sacrifice the screws and use a visegrip on the heads (replace with allen screws)

jrock · « **Reply #12 on:** Apr 29, 2010, 05:51:23 PM »

Good tip.

flyinsquirel · « **Reply #13 on:** May 05, 2010, 02:42:37 PM »

I had the same 1500-1800 idle on my 160kmi engine, and it was a worn throttle body. Found the fix somewhere on another board. Try gently pulling forward-towards the radiator-on the throttle body linkage where the throttle cable mounts and see if it returns to normal idle. Mine had about a 1/16th of movement. The quick fix is to rig a small spring form the hardware store to keep a little tension on it. I've been running mine like that for over a year now, works great.

jrock - that 3.4 should run circles around your 22re header or not.

Good luck, let us know what happens

jrock · « **Reply #14 on:** May 11, 2010, 03:21:31 PM »

Okay, now that I cleaned the Throttle Body, AFM, AIC and everything else invloved in there... it idles between 2000-2500rpm

.

When I cleaned the AIC I took it completly apart because it was so gummed up. Everything moved freely, it was clean as a whistle and so I reassembled everything as it was. It then idles high. So, I took it all apart again and checked it all, put it back together and nothing changed. So, took it apart againg and messed with some of the adjustments and put it back together. Idles closer to 2000. If I unplug the AIC it drops to 1500.

The barrel valve in the AIC, when taken out, is not fully closed. Is this the problem? I assume this is the factory set idle.

On the plus, there is a lot more power in the engine now.

HELP ASAP!

jrock · « **Reply #15 on:** May 11, 2010, 03:23:16 PM »

Does anyone know a part # for the 97 T100 AIC?

BUDDERS · « **Reply #16 on:** May 11, 2010, 03:48:44 PM »

I don't know the part # but you can use TOYODIY.com to look it up.

jrock · « **Reply #17 on:** May 11, 2010, 05:34:04 PM »

Thank you. This should be it.

22270   VALVE ASSY, IDLE SPEED CONTROL(FOR THLOTTLE BODY)
22270‑62040   5VZFE..VCK11, 21   1   $304.50
22270‑62050   5VZFE..VCK11, 21   1   $277.33

BUDDERS · « **Reply #18 on:** May 12, 2010, 07:16:12 AM »

make sure you get the gasket too.

jrock · « **Reply #19 on:** May 12, 2010, 08:22:21 AM »

Is there anything I can do to the unit I have? Block off the holes?

BUDDERS · « **Reply #20 on:** May 12, 2010, 03:24:47 PM »

If you block off the holes, it won't idle at all. It will just die. Are you sure the opening in the barrell part of the valve was facing the correct way when you put it back together? Did the internals turn smoothly when cleaned out? Is the electrical part of that valve facing the wrong way? ( you can get them backwards) Did anything fall out of it when you dissasembled it? It's been a while, but there might be some sort of tension washer that is supposed to be in between the exposed end of the shaft and the electrical part.

jrock · « **Reply #21 on:** May 12, 2010, 04:31:55 PM »

The barrel valve is in the correct possition. After cleaning it moves freely. The tensioner on the opposite end from the electronics/magnet is in and adjusted to hold the barrel valve closed. But when I put the magnet/electronics back on it opens the barrel a small amount.

BUDDERS · « **Reply #22 on:** May 13, 2010, 01:36:42 PM »

It's supposed to be open a small amount when assembled. That's the only way the engine can get air at idle.

jrock · « **Reply #23 on:** May 14, 2010, 10:00:05 AM »

What about the throttle body? There is a gap around the whole butterfly valve. Is this right?

BUDDERS · « **Reply #24 on:** May 14, 2010, 10:27:14 AM »

No, that's not right. The throttle butterfly should close all the way allowing air to pass only through the IAC valve. I'd look into that. Mayby something is sticking - I'm pretty sure there is no adjustment on the taco throttle bodies.

-Matt- · « **Reply #25 on:** May 14, 2010, 10:53:36 AM »

thats way to much for an IAC, ive ordered tons of stuff from autoparts warehouse, you can get all sorts of brands from them, i always get the OES (OEM) stuff so its the real deal. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Toyota/Tacoma/OES_Genuine/Idle_Control_Valve/2000/W0133-1742007.html?tlc=Engine+%26+Drivetrain. i believe you get free shipping to and its fast. i already ordered a new IAC for mine a while back cuz i was having issues and its been great ever since.

not sure if i understand if this is what you did or not but correct me if im wrong..on a side note you shouldn't have taken the IAC all the way apart, when you clean them your not suppose to take the barrel apart, i know its not as efficient but the factory setting get all messed up, thats why the cap end where the barrel comes out is all glued and sealed. its pretty much a one time deal from the factory. they arent suppose to be taken apart like that.

jrock · « **Reply #26 on:** May 14, 2010, 11:57:59 AM »

I didn't get the barrel out but I did take the magnet/plug end off along with the other end that has the spring. It all went back together easily. I think I found the problem with the throttle body. I'll try and get a picture up Monday.

There is a visible gap around the entire valve. you can see it contacting the side of the throttle body in a section about 1/2in long. The valve has no side to side play.

Can I loosen the two screws holding the valve and move it a little?

BUDDERS · « **Reply #27 on:** May 14, 2010, 01:31:39 PM »

you can loosen it, but I'd put some locktight on those screws - you wouldn't want those getting sucked into you engine.

crawler92 · « **Reply #28 on:** May 20, 2010, 07:05:06 AM »

Make sure all the vacum lines to the iac valve are connected properly. I fixed mine recently with hose clamp, best 1.50 ever spent.

toylife [OP]

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