Author Topic: welded front and rear?  (Read 3242 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Lil Bax

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 0
  • Posts: 121
  • Member since Mar '09
    • View Profile
welded front and rear?
« on: Mar 19, 2010, 09:06:19 AM »
im think about buying an 81 toyota that has 529s longfields and is welded front and rear. i have heard alot of crap about the fronts being welded this is going to be my daily driver and my trail rig. what all will i have to do to get it open in the front again? or do u think i should just leave and drive the piss out of it any answers will help THANKS :driving:

Dr Phat

  • Offline Rock Master
  • ***
  • Turtle Points: 305
  • Posts: 338
  • Member since Oct '09
    • View Profile
Re: welded front and rear?
« Reply #1 on: Mar 19, 2010, 09:55:36 AM »
You would have to get a new carrier to make it open again.

If its going to be a DD, your not going to enjoy a welded rear.

wesley

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: -1
  • Posts: 83
  • Member since Mar '10
  • you gotta get a little mud on the tires
    • View Profile
Re: welded front and rear?
« Reply #2 on: Mar 19, 2010, 10:20:56 AM »
you will most likely hate a welded front. it makles driving a chore. even a welded rear kinda sucks. you will need a new carrier and a rebuild kit for the seals bearings and shims. assuming the gears are fine those can be reused.

wakkjobb

  • Offline The 1.5K Club
  • **
  • Turtle Points: -18
  • Male Posts: 1,590
  • Member since Dec '08
  • Back at it after 5 years!
    • View Profile
Re: welded front and rear?
« Reply #3 on: Mar 19, 2010, 10:27:32 AM »
Steering with a welded front (with hubs locked) sucks; trust me. It's like the steering just stops working in the middle of a turn. Mine came with "Detroits" which turned out to mean "welded front and LSD rear". I don't know about a welded rear for DD use; there's some threads on it though... like "Welded vs spool vs locker for DD".

I have an open carrier if you end up getting the truck; no ring/pinion gears though...

>>Dan
ASE certified shadetree mechanic and spoon operator
Quote
IronClad: If I wanted to hold hands and be nice I'd become a hippie.
85 4Runner, duals, 38s, 5.29s, locked, 3.4 swapped, GranVille Edition

4x4yota

  • Offline The 1K Club
  • *
  • Turtle Points: 301
  • Male Posts: 1,256
  • Member since Oct '07
    • View Profile
Re: welded front and rear?
« Reply #4 on: Mar 19, 2010, 10:39:19 AM »
i was spooled front and rear and could still steer no problem even tried on the street risking breaking a birf... I had power steering and TG high steer off road i didnt feel a difference but in rock it was like driving a non power steering truck
Current:
85 yota 4x4 http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101931.new#new
Sold:
81 Yota 4x4 - http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=61025.0

Just remember that if the tires don't rub, then the tires ain't big enough -Runar

junya92toy

  • Offline The 1.5K Club
  • **
  • Turtle Points: -64
  • Male Posts: 1,500
  • Member since Nov '04
  • Drinking me beer
    • View Profile
Re: welded front and rear?
« Reply #5 on: Mar 19, 2010, 02:02:35 PM »
Street driving with the hubs unlocked you wont know its there for the front of course.
Dr.Maxwe001 – well i have a 15 gal compressor now and if I gett he 60  and then use the 15 as a reserve that wil give me 75 gal  thats close to 80 isnt it ?

laskt9

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 1
  • Posts: 117
  • Member since Feb '10
    • View Profile
Re: welded front and rear?
« Reply #6 on: Mar 19, 2010, 04:17:59 PM »
i have a spool in the rear of mine. it sucks. you makes tight turns hard and actually its pretty embarassing because the tires chirp everytime people think your trucks got something seriously wrong with it

GONZO97

  • Offline Crawler Guru
  • ****
  • Turtle Points: 48
  • Male Posts: 612
  • Member since Apr '09
  • travel the path less taken
    • View Profile
    • Christian's Mattress Xpress
    • Buy me a beer
Re: welded front and rear?
« Reply #7 on: Mar 19, 2010, 04:37:46 PM »
Thats not embaressing just smile at them while thinking to yourself that you could drive over their little cars lol
1997 4Runner Limited 3" lift on 31 M/Ts-Traded
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=61054.msg749103#msg749103
1995 Xtended Cab SAS on 35's Dual Cases-Sold
1991 4Runner SAS on 33s RUF 63's in the back Bilsteins all the way around, 5.29s front and rear Detroit locked Front and Rear http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=65180.0
1988 4Runner 3.0 V6--SOLD
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=97592.msg1086573#msg1086573
1996 Toyota 4Runner 3.4 V6 3" OME Lift Springs 33" Duratracs

The Build:
Coming Soon

boggerunner

  • Offline Silver Turtle Award
  • *
  • Turtle Points: 9
  • Male Posts: 3,140
  • Member since May '06
  • Philberbuilt
    • View Profile
Re: welded front and rear?
« Reply #8 on: Mar 19, 2010, 04:44:08 PM »
ive daily driven welded front and rear, its the cheapes easyiest way to lock up a yota, and it works great.
for street driving, the front doesnt matter when u unlock the hubs, and in the rear, it will wear down the tires quicker.  but to me, it was worth it when u get off road.  and for the chirpin tires around corners, it depends on what tires u are running.
my mtrs didnt chirp, but my 35" boggers did, and bfg m/t's did too.

gabriul

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 1
  • Male Posts: 100
  • Member since Apr '06
    • View Profile
Re: welded front and rear?
« Reply #9 on: Mar 19, 2010, 09:38:50 PM »
I really enjoy the chirpedy chirp chirp while turning.

Welding the front is pretty rough for normal wheeling, as it pushes really hard in the corners and can roll your tires over if theres enough traction.

I would get another carrier and put a lockrite or aussie locker or detroit in there.

Actually...if your nice with a plasma, you could pull the pins and blast out the gears. Being that the lunch box lockers don't use the side gears, you might get away with out needing a new carrier...Unless someone welded the side gears to the carrier?

So many options, so little time.

potter85

  • Offline Rock Master
  • ***
  • Turtle Points: 0
  • Male Posts: 257
  • Member since May '09
  • complete disregard for sheet metal.....
    • View Profile
Re: welded front and rear?
« Reply #10 on: Mar 19, 2010, 09:42:55 PM »
locked and ready to rock... dont be scared
3rz in the making

looking for 38s

2 tundra 4.7l v8 soon to be sas'ed

89sastoyo

  • Offline The 1K Club
  • *
  • Turtle Points: 148
  • Posts: 1,327
  • Member since Jan '09
    • View Profile
Re: welded front and rear?
« Reply #11 on: Mar 24, 2010, 09:25:43 PM »
this kids right. welded diffs are where its at there is no room for failure unless whoever welded them cant weld a diff. I have rocked one for a couple years and never regret it my PS is toast has been since I bought my truck so I rocked manual steering with a welded front. Its really easy to turn if your wheeling like sometimes you'll have to rev it up and try to get the power steering to work better or just do small clutch dumps in situations. I mean yess its not ideal but then again like I said it doesnt have give which gets rid of shock load that lockers create. I mean an arb is a welded diff when its engaged so it would be like wheeling with an arb locked in all the time. When I go wheeling Ill just do a trail hit the gravel road with one hub locked and its golden.
89 extra cab stock on 1 tons.
83 rolled with built toy axles
92 2wd DD
first gen cab

Check out the build.

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=56487.0

Lil Bax [OP]

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 0
  • Posts: 121
  • Member since Mar '09
    • View Profile
Re: welded front and rear?
« Reply #12 on: Mar 29, 2010, 06:24:46 AM »
i was told that the truck also has longfields will i be able to reuse those also??

BLACKDOG

  • 3.0 Killer
  • Offline Gold Turtle Award
  • *
  • Turtle Points: 718
  • Male Posts: 7,644
  • Member since Aug '04
  • I used to fit
    • View Profile
Re: welded front and rear?
« Reply #13 on: Mar 29, 2010, 11:49:28 PM »
Unless they're broken, there's no reason why you wouldn't be able to. 

I'm with the above, A welded rear is no big deal, and for street driving, you'll never notice the welded front anyway.  Offroad it can be a PITA, but hydro assist solves that problem.


If you're set on changing it, keep an eye out for a 5.29 3rd, and just swap it in.  No resetting of gears, no work other than pulling the old one and tossing in the new one.  then you can either sell the welded third, or have yourself a spare.
:usa: Its better to die on your feet than live on your knees :usa:

"Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same, or one day we will spend our sunset years telling our children and our children's children what it was once like in the United States where men were free. "

"I don't believe in a government that protects us from ourselves."
              -Ronald Reagan

Don't take life too seriously, it isn't permanent

Lil Bax [OP]

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 0
  • Posts: 121
  • Member since Mar '09
    • View Profile
Re: welded front and rear?
« Reply #14 on: Mar 30, 2010, 09:15:25 AM »
ok i appreciate it guys thanx

Rocksurfer

  • Momentum Man
  • Offline Gold Turtle Award
  • *
  • Turtle Points: 730
  • Male Posts: 13,860
  • Member since Jul '04
  • Lego Enforcement
    • View Profile
    • Spinnin4s 4x4 Club
Re: welded front and rear?
« Reply #15 on: Mar 30, 2010, 03:54:36 PM »
Since it comes that way, go for it. It wouldn't be what I'd do to the fronts but I have run welded rears on daily drivers in the past. Something to get used to but not anything to worry about. They only thing I'd advise is that when wheelin' be careful, be easy on the skinny pedal and don't ever start off with the steering locked to the left or right. Always try to start off with the wheels straight if possible, even with a good set of axles that is the easiest way to snap them since the load will be greatest with the wheels turned to full lock.
The Ghost-Rider/Ghost Runner

No matter how far you fall, the ground will always catch you

jeff22r

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 0
  • Male Posts: 30
  • Member since Apr '10
  • yeah i know its a jeep
    • View Profile
Re: welded front and rear?
« Reply #16 on: Apr 13, 2010, 07:30:30 PM »
drive it!! it will dog track on the rear but shouldent break anything. the front is only bad without p/s when hubs locked. if hubs unlocked it makes no differnce.  lincoln locker all the way!!!!!!

 
 
 
 
 

Related Topics

1 Replies
2731 Views
Last post Apr 15, 2003, 08:43:54 AM
by WHITE_TRASH
13 Replies
3627 Views
Last post Mar 19, 2008, 10:17:08 PM
by Thomas P
9 Replies
3336 Views
Last post Oct 11, 2008, 10:10:53 PM
by Thomas P
32 Replies
4117 Views
Last post Apr 03, 2009, 08:31:54 PM
by Moit88RNR
11 Replies
3600 Views
Last post Jul 30, 2010, 11:34:15 PM
by cdgvw1