Author Topic: 4runner cam shaft replace 'whole' thing or? (Read 4656 times)

akm · « **on:** Dec 04, 2004, 09:17:07 PM »

1988 4runner needs new cam shaft and couple rocker arms.
Shop says it needs whole new top of block at $2000 (rounded), or only a cam shaft and rockers at $500... but 2nd choice is not reliable.
Am not a mechanic so not sure of the lingo, but hope the question makes some sense.
Any ideas or other suggestions.
Thank you for your help.

Mike D · « **Reply #1 on:** Dec 04, 2004, 09:45:45 PM »

that is an insane price check out the performance cams at
http://209.250.27.45/m1webgear/ProductDetails.aspx?PartID=1020006&PartRevisionID=

Mike D · « **Reply #2 on:** Dec 04, 2004, 09:46:55 PM »

you can do it yourself easy even if you have no experience at all.

akm · « **Reply #3 on:** Dec 04, 2004, 09:54:28 PM »

Thank you for the reply.
It looks like the minimum parts are around $400 from your post.
I guess part of the question is will it be ok to replace just the shaft and rockers or is it really necessary to replace the top half of the block in order to things to seat correctly etc for the long run?
Again, we dont plan to do the work ourselves, but are trying to make a decision on scope of work really needed so we can then go the shop we feel comfortable with.
Thanks again.

Quote from: Mike D on Dec 04, 2004, 09:45:45 PM

that is an insane price check out the performance cams at
http://209.250.27.45/m1webgear/ProductDetails.aspx?PartID=1020006&PartRevisionID=

Mike D · « **Reply #4 on:** Dec 04, 2004, 09:57:58 PM »

Hey I'm in seattle and i'll do it for much much cheaper

akm · « **Reply #5 on:** Dec 04, 2004, 10:01:38 PM »

Guess the question still is, how much do we really need to do... scope of work?

Quote from: Mike D on Dec 04, 2004, 09:57:58 PM

Hey I'm in seattle and i'll do it for much much cheaper

Mike D · « **Reply #6 on:** Dec 04, 2004, 10:32:01 PM »

okay just thought a little more deeply and you have to take the head bolts off. but here is what you have to do:

take off the valve cover (4 12mm bolts)
then remove the head bolts (10 17mm bolts)
then there are 3 screws on the rocker arm assembally that hold the rocker arms on then the rockers slide off and then you replace them.
then there are 6 12mm bolts holding the cam down

Not really that hard at all

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #7 on:** Dec 05, 2004, 01:29:38 AM »

Yup if push came to shove Ill bet my mom could do it. Save your cash and take a day to do it just because. Its really not that big of a deal.

brainlessfool · « **Reply #8 on:** Dec 05, 2004, 07:36:34 AM »

OH NO! now I have to put in my

my make things harder! you'll need to drain the water out too. there! that's not so bad is it?

by the way, I have NO idea what you mean by "replace the top of the block" do you maybe mean resurface?

akm · « **Reply #9 on:** Dec 05, 2004, 10:00:55 AM »

Quote from: brainlessfool on Dec 05, 2004, 07:36:34 AM

OH NO! now I have to put in my my make things harder! you'll need to drain the water out too. there! that's not so bad is it?
by the way, I have NO idea what you mean by "replace the top of the block" do you maybe mean resurface?

Thanks much to all for the replies.
The 2 options from the shop were...
1 - r&r camshaft with aftermarket camshaft and 2 rocker arms (would not 'warrantee this option), or
2 - r&r head/gaskets with head gasket set, complete new head/camshaft/rockers/tstat/plugs, etc

'2' sounds like a new engine (top half).
Is there a place I could look at a picture of this engine without buying a manual?
What is the risk in option '1' vs '2'?
Seems like option '1' might involve some subsequent valve adjustment to get things in sync with the new camshaft... and should all the rockers be replaces or only the 2 'bad' ones?
I assume the coolant comes out because the head is being loosened and it would leak out at the head gasket?
Is there a chance the head gasket would need to be replaced?
As I said in the beginning, you can guess Im not that knowledgeable... but its becoming clearer.
Thanks again.

brainlessfool · « **Reply #10 on:** Dec 05, 2004, 10:13:14 AM »

awww, the plot thickins

all depends. if it's high miles then yes it's best to do the headgasket too.
heck a valve job would not hert anything. and 22re heads do crack. heck just pull the 22re and drop in a 350 chev. I'm sure white trash will give ya some pointers there! any way the truble with older anything is they need work. as a rule better safe than sorry.

kyle_22r · « **Reply #11 on:** Dec 05, 2004, 10:22:35 AM »

you can buy a BRAND NEW performance built(ported + oversized valves) head from engnbldr for less than $650. $2000 is way too much to spend on a head

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #12 on:** Dec 05, 2004, 10:37:21 AM »

absolutely, way to much, dude, you need to find a cheaper mechanic,
22 heads are no more than $600 hes, wanting $1400 for installation,

akm · « **Reply #13 on:** Dec 05, 2004, 12:04:50 PM »

Quote from: brainlessfool on Dec 05, 2004, 10:13:14 AM

awww, the plot thickins all depends. if it's high miles then yes it's best to do the headgasket too.
heck a valve job would not hert anything. and 22re heads do crack. heck just pull the 22re and drop in a 350 chev. I'm sure white trash will give ya some pointers there! any way the truble with older anything is they need work. as a rule better safe than sorry.

Well, its my sons car and he doesnt have the money for the new head so Im thinking its kinda between whether to replace the cam shaft and all the rockers or the cam shaft and only the 2 rockers...
and whether he does it here in Seattle or takes it back to his home town (200 miles away) and has a mechanic there (who hes going to call on Monday to get a cost) do it?
The mechanic here is definitely too expensive, so theres got to be another way.

Were going to get the Chilton manual out of the car today (left it in at the shop, but its sitting outside where he can get to it) so we can take a look at what fits on what... what bone is connected to what bone, and which step follows which step in the DIY process.
So, any suggestions along those lines would help... along with the question about the number of rockers to replace.
Also, if he does it himself it would probably be a good idea to do it here b4 he drives it the 200 miles home and then to take it into his home town mechanic to get valves adjusted etc after driving it there?

Thanks again to all.

Mike D · « **Reply #14 on:** Dec 05, 2004, 12:16:27 PM »

how many miles on this thing? Replace all of the rockers. Also replace the cam shaft bearings i'm guessing they are around 25-30 bucks each and you will need 3. It would be best to do a head gasket if it has high miles and get the head resurfaced and if ya had an extra 100 i would do atiming chain assuming there are high miles.

akm · « **Reply #15 on:** Dec 05, 2004, 12:48:54 PM »

Quote from: Mike D on Dec 05, 2004, 12:16:27 PM

how many miles on this thing? Replace all of the rockers. Also replace the cam shaft bearings i'm guessing they are around 25-30 bucks each and you will need 3. It would be best to do a head gasket if it has high miles and get the head resurfaced and if ya had an extra 100 i would do atiming chain assuming there are high miles.

About 145000 mileage on the rig.
I dont know what else has been done, but I think the timing chain has been replaced not too long ago... and generally the thing has been maintained fairly well over the years.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #16 on:** Dec 05, 2004, 03:42:26 PM »

akm, can you some how get a picture of the cam and rockers??

i would get it away from that mechanic QUICK, Whitetrash is in washington and is as far as i know the closest guy on here that can give you excellent advice and tech info,

if you can get it to your house, remove the 4 nuts that hold the valve cover,(top of motor) and get some good pics with good light and i can probably tell you what to do,

MikeD

cam bearings??

Mike D · « **Reply #17 on:** Dec 05, 2004, 09:16:33 PM »

Quote from: Glen on Dec 05, 2004, 03:42:26 PM

MikeD cam bearings??

the little metal bearings that fit in these things there are three

supratruck · « **Reply #18 on:** Dec 06, 2004, 07:14:55 AM »

A stock head doesn't have any cam bearings. I've taken apart 4 now. Machine shops modify heads for bearing inserts if the originals get wasted or the head warps enough to cause the cam to bind and they have to line bore it. Its a band-aid fix instead of completely replacing the head .

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #19 on:** Dec 06, 2004, 08:02:47 AM »

to date i have never seen a toyota R motor with inserts in the cam journals, never seen one need them either

Mike D · « **Reply #20 on:** Dec 06, 2004, 02:20:30 PM »

mine must have been modified cause it had them.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #21 on:** Dec 06, 2004, 04:09:50 PM »

i know it "could" be done, never seen it but, apparently at some point your motor was pretty much wasted and rebuilt, well at least the head, is it a turbo ??

Mike D · « **Reply #22 on:** Dec 06, 2004, 04:35:40 PM »

It was blown with 215k on it and the guy said he rebuilt the whole thing but infact it had a inch long crack throgh the valve seats.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #23 on:** Dec 06, 2004, 04:45:58 PM »

22RE or RTE, yea, i would junk that thing, strip the parts and melt it down for a paperweight

Mike D · « **Reply #24 on:** Dec 06, 2004, 04:48:57 PM »

it was a 22R with EFI put on it and it has been junked for a 94 2WD with 61K

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