95 T-100 build ground up

[yotaneck13]

ok i got a 95 t100 that i did a horiblt sas on it last year so im tearin it down to frame and starting over  here it goes someone is gonna laugh at the pics i cant believe they havent surfaced on the discrace thred yet


TO DO LIST:
Grind all ifs bracket off
Grind all rust off of frame
Repaint entire frame
Build motor mounts
Fab front spring hangers
fab front shakel hangers
fab switch panel in the fold down armrest compartment
Fab roll bar
Fab guage panel and relocate heater panel
Cut the rear portion of roof for topless
make doors removable
raise rear seats to clear speaker box
bob bed
cut rear frame locate fuel cell in bed
re build dorpanels
manuel windows and locks
fix rear lift (i dont wany blocks)
drop shakels in rear
Run brake lines
run fuel lines
Fab steering? no clue yet how last time was horrible
wiring for switch panel
Roll bar in bed with lights
Instal front vizor with lights
rear disk conversion
Have rear drive shaft made
pinion angles
dual cases
fix front spring pack
cold air intake
16inch beaklocks
new tires
fab front and rear bumpers with winch mount on front
dual batteries under rear seat
Convert ac pump to onboard air
New gearing with arb f and r
rear ends? have 10bolt? not sure have acess to dodge 1/2 ton whats everyone runnin

[thegoofster21]

lets see some pix!

[yotaneck13]

here it was when i got it and after the 2inbody was installed with 33's

[yotaneck13]

here is the truck goin to get the manual tranny at my uncles sorry i didnt take anypic of the tranny swap

[thegoofster21]

do not use a 10 bolt stay T100

[yotaneck13]

the first sas i did (didnt turn out too well)

[yotaneck13]

ok what about the fornt axel what do you recomend?

[yotaneck13]

first time out with first sas got stuck only had 2wd and bald 4deees my rear pinion angle on the 10bolt was horible i brokt a ujoint on the dshaft when i got in it so we had to get a semi and pull me out

[yotaneck13]

here is the starting of the second sas more pic i have to get on the com tho here is a few...we got the cab stuck under my garage door tryn to get it out

[yotaneck13]

i havent really been able to touch the truck since saturday as a metal shaving from my grinder got lodged in my eye had it removed and ground today but i still only have 45% vision in my left eye it sucks...so much for my 50$ nemesis saftey glasses haha but get this my auto insurance covered the surgery and my perscription bc i was workin on the truck haha

[thegoofster21]

just use a dana 44 out of a chevy

[89sastoyo]

I wouldn't waste the time with a 44. If it were me I would just buy a 60 and call it a day. Ha I don't even know are tundra's driver or pass side drop? If passenger 60s are a dime a dozen out of new dodge's and fords. If passenger there a little more expensive but the swap will be the same as a 44 the axle will just cost more itself. I would run a 14 bolt or 70 rear you could get away with a 60 but both the other options are cheap and really strong. If you want to rock a 44 make sure its a 3/4 44 with  8 lug outers they have stronger shafts from the factory.

[yotaneck13]

I wouldn't waste the time with a 44. If it were me I would just buy a 60 and call it a day. Ha I don't even know are tundra's driver or pass side drop? If passenger 60s are a dime a dozen out of new dodge's and fords. If passenger there a little more expensive but the swap will be the same as a 44 the axle will just cost more itself. I would run a 14 bolt or 70 rear you could get away with a 60 but both the other options are cheap and really strong. If you want to rock a 44 make sure its a 3/4 44 with  8 lug outers they have stronger shafts from the factory.

so your saying dont even run the toyota rear then?

[toytank]

there  are lots of options id say if you run a toy rear then use  a chevy 44 it keeps your bolt pattern the same and it just as strong as your rear and cost effective.
however if you have a little money to spend  get a front 60 , and then i would run a rear 60 , dana 70 is a waste of time your gaining nothing over a 60 . the 14 bolt is stronger and you would most likly never break it ,but you loose alot of ground clearance. im not a big fan of the 14bolt everyone i know who put one in has since removed it. i know ill catch hell off that last statement but it is what it is!! good luck im looking forward to your build not to many 100's running around built.

[Rocksnail]

Would love to see a T100 on tons. That would look so sweet. if you go that way. i would do 60 front  only option. and for the rear you get a bigger option. D60 , 14bolt or D70. i would go with the 70 , but what ever you can find will work. just make sure there 30spline. and not a big 19 spline ( found in d60 rears)  If you want to stick with yota, Then use your rear axle and and pick up a toy front. or if the $$$$$$ is there get a diamond. If your hart iis set on a D44. then do it. But by the time you build one of them, you could have bought a D60.
Really it all comes down to what you want out of your rig. what kind of wheeling? tire size? do you DD it or it a trailer queen? All of theses are things to think about when you are building your rig. Anyway you go. im watching this. have always wanted a T100

[yotaneck13]

sounds like im lookn for a set of 60's with the front pass drop then i was wanting to dd it but not all the time jus to local trails an stuff but well see

[yotaneck13]

cupple more pics i can see better now so i should beable to get the rest of the frame grinded down ans sanded for paint  these are the tires i had to use flattened to fit it in my garage  and almost gutted then completly gutted then the inside pic of the cab stuck with kyle still holdin it then my gf ashlee grindin away got the motor pulled front axel removed cut that bulky front crossmember out that i had put in

[yotaneck13]

 another of the front with out a crossmember then the new one installed and finished then a pic ashlee took of me welding that i thought looked cool  then the motor mounts finushed with out the torsion bar mounts making them look bulky then the rear portion of the frame cut off   and the switch panel in the armrest mocked up

[yotaneck13]

Check out my parts thread i need to sell em to get stuff for my build  let me kno if anyone needs anything thanks, Cullin

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=67476

[yotaneck13]

heres my old cross over steering haha this was before i found marlin tho

[89sastoyo]

im just not a fan of 60 rears lol they work good the one advantage of a dana 70 rear over the 14 bolt and 60 is you can run lower gears a lot lower gears so it would be daily driveable on bigg tires. I would just do some reasearch go look on pirate4x4.com and check out what people are doing over there. I know there are a lot of builds on marlin but pirate has a lot of tech and if your just search threw stuff theres information everywhere.

[IronClad]

If you want to rock a 44 make sure its a 3/4 44 with  8 lug outers they have stronger shafts from the factory.

No they are the same shafts.  sometimes you just find the light duty 1/2ton 44's that have the pinner neck down the entire length of the shaft

[yotaneck13]

what about dodge like a 75 or 6  1/2 ton rears ?

[89sastoyo]

No they are the same shafts.  sometimes you just find the light duty 1/2ton 44's that have the pinner neck down the entire length of the shaft

gotcha yeah cause my buddy has the big hub 44 on his chevy but the u joint was bad and they guy gave him some shafts out of a half ton 44 and they were the small ones and looked super easy to break lol.

[89sastoyo]

what about dodge like a 75 or 6  1/2 ton rears ?

6 1/2 ton? That pumpkin is probably what like 35 inches around??? I'm not to sure what it would look like but if its what I think it is I would steer clear just go with a dana 60 14 bolt or dana 70 there all heap 14 bolts are a dime a dozen like 150 bucks all day. 60sare cheaper/

[yotaneck13]

no 1975 0r 1976 dodge?

[yotaneck13]

headn out to the garage i got the frame painted from the middle cabmounts foward last night but it started snowin idk what ill get done to day mabye finish the switch panel in the arm rest until the snow lets up

[yotaneck13]

ok so i def cant run the 10bolt so i need to sell it or trade for a 60 with pass side dif

[yotaneck13]

got 3/4 of the trame prepped and painted to day and the motor mounts are complete

[yotaneck13]

TO DO LIST:
Grind all ifs bracket off done!
Grind all rust off of frame
Repaint entire frame
Build motor mounts   done!
Fab front spring hangers
fab front shakel hangers
fab switch panel in the fold down armrest compartment
Fab roll bar
Fab guage panel and relocate heater panel-need guages
Cut the rear portion of roof for topless
make doors removable
raise rear seats to clear speaker box
bob bed
cut rear frame -done!
locate fuel cell in bed-need
re build dorpanels
manuel windows and locks
fix rear lift (i dont want any blocks)-need f150 or 63"chevy
drop shakels in rear-need
Run brake lines -need
run fuel lines-need
Fab steering? no clue yet how last time was horrible
wiring for switch panel
Roll bar in bed with lights
Instal front vizor with lights
rear disk conversion
Have rear drive shaft made -need
pinion angles
dual cases
fix front spring pack not using 3/4 ton springs
cold air intake -need
16inch beaklocks- need
new tires-need
fab front and rear bumpers with winch mount on front
dual batteries under rear seat
Convert ac pump to onboard air
New gearing with arb f and r
rear ends? have 10bolt? not sure have acess to dodge 1/2 ton whats everyone runnin
gonna run d60 f and r - need