4 Low

[Fireimp141]

I cant get my 4low into gear with the new 3" BL... what should i do?

[Mike D]

well all i have to say is that is your fault for doing a body    and just cut it or go 2" body

[cgbemis]

Cut your tranny tunnel a little, and you should be fine.

[BigMike]

Hey dude, save your body. If you've got a welder, cut put draw a line on your shift handle just above the piviot socket thing but below the black handle part. Then cut it in the middle between the socket and the handle, but in the region that is STRAIGHT. That's critical. Make sure your cut is in line with the part of the shifter that plugs into the transfercase. Cut it above the socket piece but before it makes any bends. This way it will raise the shifter up 3" and not change its position in your truck. Then get some 3" piece of metal (round bar with same ID is prefered) and weld it in place, and use your marks to realign the shifter so its still in the same direction.

If you got a new body lift kit, and it was designed for a 4WD, then it should have come with two 3" spacers, one for the trans shifter and one for the tcase shifter.

This is best because you dont have to cut up your cab and the shifter will come back up to its normal height.

Oh hey, I just realized that the leverage is longer and its gonna hit anyways Well maybe it will work but probably not. Better cut up that cab!

[Fireimp141]

There are 4 square tubing things that are 2X3 that came with my BL, what the hell are they??

[BigMike]

That's for the supports beneath your bed where they contact the frame. I built my 1" and didnt even worry about the support there. Im not going to haul anything that's gonna kill my bed anyways.

[Fireimp141]

what about a drive train lift?

[SWAMPER]

Dude its fine you dont ever need 4Low


 

Your shifter might not be at a good angle and not let it shift

[BigMike]

what about a drive train lift?

Yup, you can lift your drivetrain up now if you wish, check WT's $300 thread, he made some new engine mounts that relocated his engine back 1", but the point is that he found the correct spacer size to use, gotta remember that as the engine goes up, you have to have a slanted spacer that maintains the same angles on each side, or just find a piece fat enough that will work.... but I wouldnt lift the engine too much. It might be better to use lowering mount adapters between the engine mounts and the cylinder block to move the mounts down and the engine up.

If you raised your drivetrain up 3" and left the engine where it's at, then its gonna look 

[WHITE_TRASH]

Why not just put a piece of pipe on the handle and bent it till it clears the body??  Easy and very quick to do.

[bluetoy84]

BigMike had the right idea . Anytime you put a body lift on a toyota you need to weld extensions on both shifters. Not only is your
t-case shifter too short , your shifter boot will be keeping pressure on your trans shifter.Eventually it will start jumping out of 2nd or 4th gear. I've seen this happen numerous times.

There's no need to cut your floor. If you weld the extensions on, everything will clear just fine.

[BigMike]

Why not just put a piece of pipe on the handle and bent it till it clears the body?? Easy and very quick to do.

dang it WT, you are just to smart for us lay folk Hey I forgot to call you yesterday

[79coyotefrg]

swampy  are you hearing  fireimps bodylift problems,  this is why anything over 2" is bad doodoo  

[WHITE_TRASH]

Mike, read my cingular sucks thread for the new #

[bkg]

www.4crawler.com = motor mount spacers.  Go w/ 2".
www.budbuilt.com = t-case crossmember.  Buy it with a 2" lift built in.

All problems now solved.