22re performance ?'s

[Cheesemaker]

Ok, I know that a 22re doesn't have alot of horsepower to begin with.  I really love my 87 and the 22re almost perfect with stock gearing.  But I now have a 91 that needs some motor love! (REBUILT)  So, I'm thinking on getting the engine done with some slight power mods in mind.  Short block will be basic build, but the upper end I'm leaning towards Enginebuilders performance head with the larger valves and his EFI cam, and a header. 

So, how much more power will I be looking at with this setup?  I know it won't be alot.  Since the 22re produces about 105-110 hp. (#'s differ from info to info)
Will I have to adjust the AFM? 
How much will the stock injectors handle with this setup? 

At this point I'm not planning on SASing the 91, but I intend to use it for hauling firewood and towing a trailer with it.  And my kids will probably be learning how to drive in this rig too!  So, I don't want to go all out on it.  Since I probably won't be going over 31's for it.  I'm thinking on regearing to the 4runner gears, 4.56's.

[Plekto]

If its a major rebuild($1500+), consider just swapping in a 3RZ.

[emsvitil]

The 22re isn't a hp motor.     

Build for torque.    Probably can get it to 160-170   (from 140)

[KDXSR5]

I have said head from EB. I am running an LCE EFI PRO cam in it. I noticed a good gain in power, especially running very extreme timing and between 3000-5500 rpm. Only problem is I have to run premium in it with the ignition so far advanced. I can back it down and the power increase tends to move down the rpm range a little. I probably need to adjust my AFM box, but have not yet done that. Sorry I cannot be more help.

[Snowtoy]

I would recommend calling enginebuilders and talk to them directly. Ted (the original owner, now his son runs the business), is a member on another board, and has often stated that he feels the 22r(e) motor is good for about 145hp for daily reliability and what most would consider a user friendly powerband.  Once you start building beyond that amount you start running into reliability issue and the low end performance starts to suffer.  A buddy of mine went this way with his '84 rig(22r), and the performance was night and day.

Your not limited to just 4-Runners w/the 4.56 gears, they were also available in 5-spd trucks that came stock w/31's and the 3.0, auto's w/the 3.0 and stock tires, though I am not positive on all the years they were available, I do know they were in the '95's(Sister's 3.0/Auto Runner had them).  If you are going to be towing a trailer a lot, you might also consider running 4.88's(auto trucks and Runners w/the 3.0 and stock 31's).  The 4.88's would also give you the future option of running 32's(w/some massaging of the firewall seam) or 33's w/a little lift, and still have better than stock performance.

With cleaned and rebuilt injectors, the ecu shouldn't have an issue adjusting for the extra demand for fuel even after opening up the intake system, which will be needed to gain the most performance out of the engine mods, along with the rest of the exhaust upgrades.

[Cheesemaker]

Thanks for the info.  Keep them coming. 

I'd really love to go 2/3RZ, but at this point it's beyond my ability and tools right now.  So, I would have to pay to have somebody to do the engine mounts, and all the necessary wiring.  So, I'm gonna stay with the 22RE, since it would be just a simple swap.  And I was just wondering how much gain I would get by going this route. 

I like to do all my research before I tear into things.  Thanks

[KDXSR5]

I dunno how much of my engine build I have in my build thread, but it if interested, just search KDXSR5 and it will come up.

[KDXSR5]

I little extra info: I am no longer running the adjustable cam gear, as it would not stay adjusted and Duffil's broke, so I didn't want to mess with it anymore and risk damage. I did do a dual row timing chain conversion (EXPENSIVE), but the peace of mind of having a dual row is worth it to me. Longer service life, stronger, etc.

[79coyotefrg]

Todd,  retard your timing and adjust the afm,  you arent running big compression ratio so you shouldnt need premium gas


Ryan,  the head is fine but but if you want something beyond the factor of 120 hp,  get a LCengineering .440 cam,  a long tube header, a large bore throttle body

[KDXSR5]

Todd,  retard your timing and adjust the afm,  you arent running big compression ratio so you shouldnt need premium gas


Ryan,  the head is fine but but if you want something beyond the factor of 120 hp,  get a LCengineering .440 cam,  a long tube header, a large bore throttle body

Will do.

I have that cam in my engine (at Glen's recommendation), in addition to an LCE header. Nive stuff, just $$.

[Cheesemaker]

I just know in my motor in my 87, sometime I just wish it just had just a tiny bit more power, I know its a 4 banger and not a 3rz. 

So, I'm leaning towards just getting the engine to breath better (head, cam, and headers) and lean towards making up the difference in re-gearing.   I was thinking that if I go with 4.56's I could find some used diffs from a donor rig cheaper than having things re-geared.  But with 4.88's then I would know things are new and good. 

[Snowtoy]

Yes you should see some improvement with a power build-up of the 22re, but wont reap its full potemtial w/o regearing for the tires you want to run.  Given the weight of Toyotas, absent dropping in a 300hp motor, regearing is the best bang for your buck.

You can also get 4.88 oem diffs, though a little more rare than the 4.56's, however, if you want to run a locker in the rear, you will want to have your rear diff regeared.  I am not sure of the 4.88 diff was an option w/the 1st gen Taco's/3rd gen Runner or if it had a factory locker, if they did this would be another option for the rear.  Regearing the rear diff can be done for just a little more than buying used diffs from a parts house, when you bring the diff in and only pay for bench labor.  Keep an eye on craigslists and the 4x4 boards, there are often good deals on complete diffs w/gears and lockers, or uninstalled gear sets.

[PA_taco_13]

   

[germ]

I little extra info: I am no longer running the adjustable cam gear, as it would not stay adjusted and Duffil's broke, so I didn't want to mess with it anymore and risk damage. I did do a dual row timing chain conversion (EXPENSIVE), but the peace of mind of having a dual row is worth it to me. Longer service life, stronger, etc.

I was just looking at this, 'cause mine is starting to make some noise, and I think the plastic tensioner is giving up. How much of a PITA is it to do the swap?

BTW: Sorry for the thread jack. I now return you to your regularly scheduled programming.

Erik

[WHITE_TRASH]

I was just looking at this, 'cause mine is starting to make some noise, and I think the plastic tensioner is giving up. How much of a PITA is it to do the swap?

BTW: Sorry for the thread jack. I now return you to your regularly scheduled programming.

Erik

Blowing a pile of cash on a dual row timing chain conversion is the long way around fixing the issue.  Just get a standard kit with METAL backed guides and put it in.  It is only a 4 or 5 hour job to do the swap.

[Cheesemaker]

The engine I bought for the 87 came with the steel backed tensioner. 

I found some reading that Ted http://www.engnbldr.com/ had posted several years ago on another forum.  Pretty good read if you really want to get your motor dialed in to a gnats ass!  And he's talking 145hp easy out of a 22re.   8)   But that's more than I'm looking for.  Any more than 125hp I'm thinking I'm gonna run into  stock injector issues.  So, I'm thinking on Engnbldr head with 261C cam, and a good exhaust.  That's just about what I was looking for. 

Here's the link
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=820891&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=1&vc=1

[79coyotefrg]

That is a PIA. The fun part with both of those was that the pistons were NOT destroked, so after decking the blocks they kinda stuck out a tad too much. Putting the head on with it that way would be embarrassing and get me phone calls. So I simply milled off some of the outer raised circle on the piston head, effectively raising the compression ratio by about .5 to one plus the gain from the overbore, those both came out to a shade over 10.1:1 which made me nervous.

um HELLO removing material from the PISTON does NOT raise compression it LOWERS it

[YotaNate]

LOL I hope he meant he had the head milled to increase compression? 


Nate

[79coyotefrg]

you might also wonder why almost every response to him in that thread had been deleted