Author Topic: Noise valves.  (Read 3888 times)

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Confederate13

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Noise valves.
« on: Nov 28, 2009, 09:55:53 PM »
I just finished putting back together my motor after a new crank and bearings, got here timed right and running smooth. But It seems to me that the valves are a bit noisy. it is a brand new head, cam rockers, the works, and I currently have them ajusted at .08 intake and .012 exaust, but I can hear very slight (almost unnoticable tapping.) are these my only options without burning a valve or messing things up?  and would it make a difference if when I put the motor at TDC it was on the 5 degree mark and not the 0 degree mark?
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87yoter

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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #1 on: Nov 28, 2009, 10:27:17 PM »
sounds like the toyota click to me. try 8 and 10
get it!

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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #2 on: Nov 29, 2009, 12:25:11 AM »
It's possible to put the rocker arm shafts in wrong with the result of no oil flow where there's supposed to be oil flow.................
Ed
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79coyotefrg

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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #3 on: Nov 29, 2009, 10:50:38 AM »
I just finished putting back together my motor after a new crank and bearings, got here timed right and running smooth. But It seems to me that the valves are a bit noisy. it is a brand new head, cam rockers, the works, and I currently have them ajusted at .08 intake and .012 exaust, but I can hear very slight (almost unnoticable tapping.) are these my only options without burning a valve or messing things up?  and would it make a difference if when I put the motor at TDC it was on the 5 degree mark and not the 0 degree mark?
run it for 50 or so miles change the oil and THEN adjust the valves


put the crank in at 0* i dont know why people get the idea of installing the cam at 5 or 8 degrees off :wall:
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

79coyotefrg

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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #4 on: Nov 29, 2009, 10:51:37 AM »
It's possible to put the rocker arm shafts in wrong with the result of no oil flow where there's supposed to be oil flow.................
it is possible but hopefully NOT the case hear :nerv:
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

kneedownnate

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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #5 on: Nov 29, 2009, 08:01:08 PM »
I can't recall any 20/22r that didn't have at least a little valve noise  :dunno:
RIP KYOTA

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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #6 on: Nov 29, 2009, 09:43:17 PM »
I was once told by a toyota tech some noise is better then no noise
Dr.Maxwe001 – well i have a 15 gal compressor now and if I gett he 60  and then use the 15 as a reserve that wil give me 75 gal  thats close to 80 isnt it ?

90YoTa

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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #7 on: Nov 30, 2009, 12:01:26 AM »
does the tapping go away after your truck warms up?

Confederate13 [OP]

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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #8 on: Nov 30, 2009, 07:18:34 AM »
it slightly does yes.
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Confederate13 [OP]

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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #9 on: Nov 30, 2009, 07:28:46 AM »

put the crank in at 0* i dont know why people get the idea of installing the cam at 5 or 8 degrees off :wall:
[/quote]

  The cam is installed at 0*, I had it on 5* when I ajusted the valves.  will this cause a prooblem?
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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #10 on: Nov 30, 2009, 01:42:13 PM »
I've seen valve cover bolts too tight resulting in the timing chain rubbing on the inside of the valve cover.  You could try loosening up your valve cover bolts a little to see if the noise goes away.  You never want to crush those valve cover grommets too much....
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2manytoys

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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #11 on: Nov 30, 2009, 04:20:05 PM »
It's a mechanical cam, some noise is normal. I always thought they were too noisy setting them to spec and set mine @ .007 and .011. with a cold engine.

I rechecked when hot to make sure I still had clearance. No problems on my trucks since. One had 450K and the other has 404K. Still has slight noise but way less noticeable.

.001-.002 isn't going to kill you as long as it still has some clearance when hot. Everybody has a different "feel" when they set valves anyway. Use a go-no go type feeler gauge for consistency if it makes you more comfortable.

Some may disagree with me on this but the milage I get out of my engines tells me it's not a problem. I haven't had any abnormal cam or rocker wear, or any burnt valves.
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hilux-1983

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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #12 on: Nov 30, 2009, 04:29:25 PM »
I have the same gripe and problem. I've adjusted and re-adjused. It will go away at times when at an idle. Wierd. I've been driving it alot that way. Went on a 800 mile round trip for thanksgiving and no problems eventhough the noise is still there. I do have to say though, it is a bit noisier with Amzoil 10-40.
« Last Edit: Nov 30, 2009, 06:59:25 PM by hilux-1983 »
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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #13 on: Nov 30, 2009, 05:07:07 PM »
22R's are noisy,  and mechanical aka solid lifter engine is going to have noise

it shouldnt sound like a diesel but a tick, tick,tick is normal

I was once told by a toyota tech some noise is better then no noise
very true
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

Confederate13 [OP]

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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #14 on: Nov 30, 2009, 09:53:34 PM »
It's a mechanical cam, some noise is normal. I always thought they were too noisy setting them to spec and set mine @ .007 and .011. with a cold engine.

 does anyone else run anything different like this?
« Last Edit: Dec 02, 2009, 09:40:52 AM by 79coyotefrg »
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kneedownnate

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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #15 on: Dec 01, 2009, 12:03:04 AM »
The way I thought it went is a light tick is better than a dull thud, meaning better to be a little loose than a little tight.  I always run mine a little loose.
RIP KYOTA

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90YoTa

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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #16 on: Dec 01, 2009, 08:59:52 PM »
i don't know if this helps but i was running Royal purple 10w-40 and there was a little ticking even after i checked my vavle clearance then 3000
miles later i change my oil using Mobile 1 10w-40 because it was on sale and the tapping went away.  :dunno:

Confederate13 [OP]

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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #17 on: Dec 01, 2009, 09:39:32 PM »
can incorrectly adjusted valves cause power loss?  :confused:
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funrunner87

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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #18 on: Dec 02, 2009, 07:44:31 AM »
can incorrectly adjusted valves cause power loss?  :confused:

YES!! and if its bad enough even Engine loss

Confederate13 [OP]

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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #19 on: Dec 02, 2009, 07:48:09 AM »
would to tight cause power loss or to loose?
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funrunner87

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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #20 on: Dec 02, 2009, 07:59:39 AM »
would to tight cause power loss or to loose?

set them to the spec.. to loose and the rocker is beating the cam and valve, to tight and it might hold the valve open and if its open to much your pistion will close it.   

2manytoys

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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #21 on: Dec 02, 2009, 08:29:30 AM »
Too loose will clatter and beat parts up like funrunner said. Your valves won't open to the lift they should so you get a  power loss. I don't know if the knock sensor would pick that noise up.

Too tight won't allow your valves to close all the way so exhaust valves can burn, intakes can allow compression loss, and like funrunner said if tight enough, contact with piston.

If you don't hear ANY ticking, your valves are probably too tight. It will run rough. My son adjusted his valves and told me it wouldn't idle very smooth. It ran but was shaky to say the least. Some of the valves were ok but most of them were way tight. Luckily he didn't run it very long.

Since some of the valves were set ok, you could hear the ticking. So he didn't think there was a problem. It ran like crap though. Definitely a power loss.

Like I posted before I set mine at .007 and .011 with no problems. For your peace of mind, set them to spec and get used to what is normal mechanical cam noise.

If it gets quiet over time you better check em.

I have never noticed a change in how loud with different oils like you have. I have used different brands on occasion but always used the same viscosity.

Getting back to your original post, ticking is normal. Maybe compare to some other Toy's.

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2manytoys

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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #22 on: Dec 02, 2009, 08:32:04 AM »
I mentioned the knock sensor because if it did pick up the noise as a knock (detonation), it could retard your ignition timing.
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funrunner87

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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #23 on: Dec 02, 2009, 08:59:29 AM »
i have never herd a 20r, 22r, 22re, that didnt make alot of noise, its just part of what that engine does, dont worry about it, just keep oil and gas in it and it will go for ever

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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #24 on: Dec 02, 2009, 09:44:46 AM »
would to tight cause power loss or to loose?
too tight can burn the lobes off the cam shaft, break the end of the adjusting screw, make the valve contact the piston which will bend or break the valve causing engine failure


DONT TIGHTEN TOO TIGHT :slap:
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #25 on: Dec 02, 2009, 10:02:51 AM »
About a month ago, I had a timing problem. and had a supposed "expert" mechanic looking at my truck. We ran it with the valve cover off to see what the valves were doing. he heard the click, and he said they were way too loose, started messing with em. It didnt change nothing. Well I put it back together, got it timed, and had a horribly loud clack clack clack. I drove for about 20 miles, tooke the cover off, and low and behold, my expert mechanic had left one of the spacers to the rockers off, my rocker wasnt hitting the tappet at all, contacting the side of the valve to open it. Found the 2 halves of the spacer sitting right there in the head. Put em back on, adjusted my valves myself to spec, and Im back to having my tick of reliability. never heard one that didnt do it.
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funrunner87

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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #26 on: Dec 02, 2009, 01:07:00 PM »
the only ones that dont do it are ones that DONT RUN! the tick is like there heart beat.. tick tick... tick tick... tick tick

Confederate13 [OP]

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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #27 on: Dec 02, 2009, 07:07:47 PM »
I like you guys. you make understanding fun. thanks for all the help.  I have her on factory specs and the ticking like I said is very slight so I will leave it.  I will do some wheelin and see how it goes. thanks again everyone.  :bowdown:
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Re: Noise valves.
« Reply #28 on: Dec 03, 2009, 07:40:55 AM »
I remember speeking with someone up at TRD about 8 or 9 years ago and they had a roller rocker setup in development for the 22r series motor, but for some reason that project was scrapped.  I think that may have been the only thing that would quiet down that 22r tick - and maybe not even that.  If they had a hydraulic setup it would definately be quiet, but that would require a entirely different head.
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