Need help with timing

[Sparkplug]

I was drivin down the road, heard a sort of pop, and my truck died. No spark, So I swapped coils, and still nothing. We couldnt pull the distributor out, so we took off the valve cover, and the gear that drives the distributor had about 4 splines chewed off it, same with distributor. Everything else was fine. So I swapped in a distributor I had layin around, and a new cam gear, and now I cant get it timed right. All the searching I have done has come up with this. Turn the motor till it is at tdc, then line up distributor at 12 o clock, push it in and it will rotate counter clockwise into the number 1 position. Then use timing light to get it perfect. Well I have done this about 30 times, and we cant get it right. We can get it real damn close, but it kinda stumbles and pops at high revs, and shakes at idle. I need someone to explain to me in retard terms, how do I get it set at tdc on the compression stroke, and then what do I do after that. Do I go to the two lines, the 8, 5, or 0? Im at a loss never had a problem like this. I should say that we had the valve cover off, and people said that on the compression stroke my valves should both be loose, well we couldnt get the intake valve to get loose. Help please. Its an 83 22r carb engine

[89 toy]

line the crank pulley up on the 0 pull the valve cover and make sure the dot on the timing gear on the cam is up if not you need to turn it over till the dot is up and the crank pulley is on 0 the dot wont be exactly straight up but it will be very close that will be compression stroke put the dist in so that the roter is pointing at the number 1 plug wire on the cap. the rocker arms should be loose on both valves if not you need to adjust them.

[79coyotefrg]

what he said,  when the crank is on 0* the cam dowel will be at 12 oclock, the dimple mark on the cam gear will be slightly to the pass side of 12 oclock,  if your intake valve is not loose you need to loosen the 12mm nut on the rocker and with a flat screw driver loosen it, 

[Sparkplug]

I did that, and it still runs like crap, im lost, Im going to try and take a video to show exactly what Im doing so someone can tell me if its wrong.

[Sparkplug]

I couldnt get a vid, so I took pics, this is where its at now, and it runs like crap, does this look right? What else might have gone out when the distrbutor seized up? T chain, valves, guides, all look good. My plug on #1 was dirty, but it was running just fine before this happened, so I dont think thats the problem. Im lost, about to burn this truck to the ground. http://s492.photobucket.com/albums/rr290/sparkplug487/Timing%20Pictures/

[Skinny_Pedal]

When you go to put the distributor in you dont want it pointing at #1. You want it to go to #1 when you set the distributor in. Pointing at #1 you should have set it the middle of adjustment and go from there. I hope you have a timing light? Even a good ear is usually off.   

Another thing. If you adjust your valves Ive had much better results setting them .007 on the intake and .011 on the exhaust. And try 7BTDC for timing.

Where you located?

[Sparkplug]

Im in red bluff, I set the distributor at 12 o clock then inserted it and it rotated to number one position. Heres a link to a video of how it ran after taking those pics. http://s492.photobucket.com/albums/rr290/sparkplug487/truck%20videos/

[79coyotefrg]

is the timing chain loaded at this point??


the chain should be tight on the drivers side when setting timing, as the crank would be pulling the chain around,  from the pic above you need to move the cam gear one tooth

[Sparkplug]

That pic is when it is on the 0 on the oil pump, which should be tdc on the compression stroke, correct? So you say the cam gear is off, do you mean the gear the chain is on, or the gear that drives the distributor. Because if its the chain gear, I dont see how it would have jumped a tooth, and if its the drive gear, I think it only went in 1 way. Any pics or vids you need of something just ask.

[79coyotefrg]

what i'm saying is with the crank on 0,  put a wrench on the cap gear bolt and see if you can turn the cam counter clockwise without moving the crank off 0

[Sparkplug]

I tried what you said, and it just moved the cam with the crank. Im not sure of what you are saying, the cam gear is on a pin and can only go in one way, it couldnt be in the wrong spot i dont think. Maybe its possible when the distributor seized that my timing might have jumped a tooth? Its not hitting the valves, but would it if it was only 1 tooth off? Im so confused, ive had it apart seriously about 35 times. Help!

[79coyotefrg]

do you have a manual??

[Sparkplug]

A fsm manual, or my trans. I dunno why either would matter, but no i dont have a shop manual, its a 5spd

[Sparkplug]

Got it fixed. For future reference, a distributor from a early celica, will not work for these trucks. Thanks all who helped

[wakkjobb]

What year Celica? The 82-86.5 non-Supras came with 22R/RE engines... I was going to pull some spare parts from the yard until I read this. You'd think the car/truck engines would be the same; can you tell what the difference is?

[Sparkplug]

I have no idea, the dizzys look the same all around. I dont know, someone on pirate pmed me and said that they fire in a different order. I dont know. It worked just fine, sparked on all 4 plugs, but didnt run right. Swapped one from my other 81, and it runs fine.

[79coyotefrg]

What year Celica? The 82-86.5 non-Supras came with 22R/RE engines... I was going to pull some spare parts from the yard until I read this. You'd think the car/truck engines would be the same; can you tell what the difference is?

the celica had the same distributor as the trucks up till 83, after 83 they had a slightly different  distributor but they would still work,  the vacuum advance was different, so if you used that as a reference thats what would throw you off

[Sparkplug]

The distributor came from an 83, and it didnt work, not at all, wouldnt run for nothing. It sparked, fired on all the plugs, just wouldnt fire at the right times. The video is how it ran when set up how everyone said. Didnt run, put in the 81 dizzy, and it ran fine.

[79coyotefrg]

The distributor came from an 83, and it didnt work, not at all, wouldnt run for nothing. It sparked, fired on all the plugs, just wouldnt fire at the right times. The video is how it ran when set up how everyone said. Didnt run, put in the 81 dizzy, and it ran fine.

I'm glad you got it running but you cant say "celica distributors dont work in trucks"   because they do,  yours could have been bad, it could have had several problems with it but they do work

You'd think the car/truck engines would be the same; can you tell what the difference is?

celica 22R's had center sump oil pans,  the heater hoses came in and out on the timing cover on both sides unlike the truck that only came out on the pass side

Ive had a 80 Celica GT with a 20R, a 79 truck with a 20R, a 79 truck with a celica motor, a 79 truck with a 22R block from a 82 celica and a 20R head with a 20R celica distributor, and my current truck with a heavily modified 22R with a 20R distributor

[Sparkplug]

They are different, the dizzy worked fine when it was in the celica, it wouldnt work with the truck intake though, I think its because in 83 they had early fuel injection and the dizzy might be controlled by a computer in that year, and my 81 doesnt have 1. Im sure they do work, but not if everything from the original engine is there. I dunno, I know it ran the celica, but wouldnt run my truck.

[79coyotefrg]

They are different, the dizzy worked fine when it was in the celica, it wouldnt work with the truck intake though, I think its because in 83 they had early fuel injection and the dizzy might be controlled by a computer in that year, and my 81 doesnt have 1. Im sure they do work, but not if everything from the original engine is there. I dunno, I know it ran the celica, but wouldnt run my truck.

was the distributor cap different on the celica ??  like bigger around, different??

[Sparkplug]

nope the caps interchanged fine