Calling all engine mechanics

[waskillywabbit]

I ain't gonna lie, I don't know anything in-depth about engines.  But I can learn and I am willing to do so.  Here is where I am...

85 4Runner, 22RE, 145K or so on the original engine, no real history, but apparently no rebuilds or timing chain/water pump done

I ran seafoam through the engine, some restore, oil is now pretty black.  Going to change the oil before I drive it again period.  Right now it can't move anyway as the front end is apart and I'm waiting on parts.

It has been suggested to me that I drop the oil pan to get all the sludge out the engine from the oil treatment when I change the oil.  I'm also planning on going to synthetic for all the fluids, maybe not the engine oil now, already done the diffs (not synthetic, but changed the fluids) when I reinstalled them with Yukon gears and ARBs (going to synthetic in 500 miles).  Yet if I do the timing chain/water pump I'll have to drop the oil pan anyway so it would be redundant it seems.  A compression test revealed all the cylinders in the 160-170 range so that looks good.

What are you recommendations to get this 22RE in tip top dependable shape w/o breaking the bank?  I can handle dropping an oil pan but I don't think I'm ready to do a timing chain just yet.

Thanks for the advice.

[Mike D]

i would do the timing chain and if the water pump works then don't replace it. Timing chains are relatively easy all you need is a FSM and get your parts from ebay they have great prices. and to do the timing chain you have to take the head off cause there is one bolt from the head to the timing cover and you may need to replace the timing cover if the chain guides broke cause the chain will rub on the timing cover. 

[79coyotefrg]

brian ,  if you pull the timing cover you have to get the top bolt thats under the distributer drive gear,  you dont have to remove the head, just that bolt,   run some more 30wt and seafoam thru that motor and get all that crap out of it,  then just run some good 10/40 and change when it gets black,   in the first breakin i always change my oil filter at 10miles,  100 miles then 1500, then 3000

i would get a metal guide kit for that 85 and put it on when you drop the pan since you need to do that anyway  goodluck 

[Mike D]

the only problem with metal timing chain guides it that there is a lot more ware on the timing chain caise it is rubbing against steel in stead of plastic.

[Skinny_Pedal]

i wouldnt run synthetic off the bat in those diffs. put regualr 90w in there and break them in and then go synthetic

[Prismo]

the only problem with metal timing chain guides it that there is a lot more ware on the timing chain caise it is rubbing against steel in stead of plastic.

Mine has a bonded rubber type surface on them so it never hits metal. All that I have seen are like this.

[Mike D]

I returned some on ebay cause they didn't have the hard rubberish plastic coating.

[WHITE_TRASH]

The timing chain is an absolute no brainer to do.  The new chain will have 2 different links, either they are shiny or they are black.  Either way they are obvious.  You just lint them up on the crank doy and the same with the cam gear dot.  Id do the waterpump as long as your there, a little peace of mind never killed anyone.  Otherwise everyone has good info for ya.

[Huhwhye]

If you're going to pull the head and if your feeling frisky get a valve job, relatively cheap and if you're bottom end is in good shape you should be set for another 145k.  Then of course new head bolts and gasket.  If your doing all the work yourself it will be pretty cheap.