Author Topic: steering mod (Read 5841 times)

4x4yota · « **on:** Jul 22, 2009, 01:31:34 AM »

I thought that ratehr than doing a ball flip on my J-arm I would jus do away with it and replace it with a rod end and bolt and make the drag link adustable...
here is a quick sketch I did

has any body ever attempted this... I got the idea from a friend that did this to all of his steering joints and it worked really well... and this way I can run a u-bolt flip kit!

plan is to run this setup so I can adjust it to run the axle in the stock location or if I move the axle forward I can adjust to correct my steering wheel

Rocksnail · « **Reply #1 on:** Jul 22, 2009, 10:19:08 AM »

looks like it would work. and work well. i would do it untill you can get hysteer.

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #2 on:** Jul 22, 2009, 10:32:47 AM »

That's better than the ball flip but it is still crap IMO. The stock steering is garbage once you lift the rig as the super short drag link will limit your steering when the axle is articulated much at all. Plus the J arm is uber weak and WILL break when you least expect it.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #3 on:** Jul 22, 2009, 11:57:41 AM »

use a drop drag link ONLY every ball flip i have seen done has failed

i ran a slightly modified draglink on a stock J arm for YEARS (14 to be exact) and never had a problem

some friends of mine, flipped their J arm balls and one guy broke his J arm plus a spare he had made in the same day on the same trail

4x4yota · « **Reply #4 on:** Jul 22, 2009, 12:10:50 PM »

Im not planning on flipping the ball Im planning on using a rod end in place of the ball joint on the J-arm... and it would only be temp till I did highsteer... unless some one is willing to come and help me do highsteer from the begining? the plan now is to run RUF so high is a must for me but I lack a welder and other tools needed!

4x4yota · « **Reply #5 on:** Jul 22, 2009, 05:55:29 PM »

ok so I figured my bills and what this mod would cost and I think Im gonna order my highsteer tomorrow when I get my pay check... any one in southern CO able to help me mount an IFS steering box some time next week?

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #6 on:** Jul 23, 2009, 04:05:38 AM »

Quote from: 79coyotefrg on Jul 22, 2009, 11:57:41 AM

use a drop drag link ONLY every ball flip i have seen done has failed

i ran a slightly modified draglink on a stock J arm for YEARS (14 to be exact) and never had a problem

some friends of mine, flipped their J arm balls and one guy broke his J arm plus a spare he had made in the same day on the same trail

I'll say it again the J arm is crap and it will break... Good call on the hi steer 4x4yota, you'll never regret it. Be sure to move the box as far forward as you can, chances are you'll end up moving the axle farther forward down the road and remounting the box is a pain..

Oh, here's a good example of a J arm.. This is shawnB's truck back in the day:gap:

4x4yota · « **Reply #7 on:** Jul 24, 2009, 09:47:46 PM »

yep I am going to move it as far forward as posible with out having to cut metal only bend or hammer out of the way and plan is to run Rears Up Front with long bump stops since Im using my stock hanger

4x4yota · « **Reply #8 on:** Jul 24, 2009, 09:53:20 PM »

how about some pics of an IFS box mounted on a 1st gen and some rears up front with 3" of lift or less
thanks

79toy20r · « **Reply #9 on:** Jul 25, 2009, 06:45:48 PM »

well with rears up front you will probably get atleast 3" of lift depending on how you build your pack

4x4yota · « **Reply #10 on:** Jul 25, 2009, 09:50:57 PM »

I was told that just stock rears as is would be no lift if .5" so I am adding a 2" add-a-leaf to get about 2-2.5" of lift and then a 2" longer than stock banana shackle so about 3-3.5 of lift total... does that sound right

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #11 on:** Jul 25, 2009, 11:36:39 PM »

This is my old truck, it had stock rears with a 4.5" shackle. The rear was just an add a leaf. The 35's fit just fine with the firewall tubbed back to the body mount.

4x4yota · « **Reply #12 on:** Jul 26, 2009, 09:38:53 PM »

any more pics of the front setup...
did you use a drop hanger, high steer, and is that a banana shackle?

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #13 on:** Jul 26, 2009, 10:00:20 PM »

Straight shackle using the stock hanger. I just shortened the push pull drag link 2" to match the axle movement.

4x4yota · « **Reply #14 on:** Jul 27, 2009, 08:06:19 PM »

about how much lift would you say it has?

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #15 on:** Jul 30, 2009, 02:49:37 AM »

Quote from: 4x4yota on Jul 27, 2009, 08:06:19 PM

about how much lift would you say it has?

Enough to clear 35's

hilux-1983 · « **Reply #16 on:** Jul 30, 2009, 09:49:47 AM »

Heres my

with a NWOR 6" lift

4x4yota · « **Reply #17 on:** Jul 31, 2009, 10:11:46 PM »

ok so Iam ordering my high steer mon and getting a flat pitman arm and building my rear pack ether this weekend or next week some time... I have a friend said he would help me drill and weld

hilux-1983 · « **Reply #18 on:** Jul 31, 2009, 11:17:45 PM »

Did you read this? http://www.marlincrawler.com/tech/guide/high-steer-install-instructions . Why are you installing crossover/hysteer anyway. Are you adding 35's or bigger, going to do some serious wheeling, gears, lift over 4" ? You could really put money elsewhere before this mod. Even with RUF, you could just shorten the drag link and there you go. What is your short term, long term goal here?

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #19 on:** Aug 01, 2009, 07:37:33 PM »

Quote from: hilux-1983 on Jul 31, 2009, 11:17:45 PM

Did you read this? http://www.marlincrawler.com/tech/guide/high-steer-install-instructions . Why are you installing crossover/hysteer anyway. Are you adding 35's or bigger, going to do some serious wheeling, gears, lift over 4" ? You could really put money elsewhere before this mod. Even with RUF, you could just shorten the drag link and there you go. What is your short term, long term goal here?

If he want's to have crossover steering because it looks cool that's just fine, it's his money.. But in all reality the stock J arm is a weak pile of crap that only gets worse when you lift the rig. Flipping the ball is a junk band aid and shortening the drag link is a REALLY bad idea, you can quote me on that as I have done it so I KNOW it sucks to drive a rig with an even shorter drag link than stock.

bleakhorizon · « **Reply #20 on:** Aug 01, 2009, 08:39:06 PM »

this is what i got.... very temporary untill i do my crossover as it sucks to wheel with the stock steering.....

Just cut the rod in half and fliped it over on one end.... then used my buddies wasted j-arm for a donor part, welded it up and wala.... havent had a problem with it and can run u bolt flip also....pics were taken before i cut the ball off the bottom...

My main dilemma is im not running much lift and i want crossover (not necessarily highsteer) but they all say you need (X amount of lift) to do crossover....could i just get a flat pitman to run a lower lift?

4x4yota · « **Reply #21 on:** Aug 01, 2009, 11:05:20 PM »

I want the cross over steer so when I do go wheeling I dont have to worry about my j-arm breaking or my drag link limiting my flex... I figure I dont really need it but Id rather be safe than sorry... plus I hear planty of people prfer the cross over compared to push pull because it handles and turns easier

4x4yota · « **Reply #22 on:** Aug 01, 2009, 11:08:00 PM »

I have found pics of a 1st gen on pirate4x4 that has 2" of lift with x over and uses a flat pitman arm... that is what I am doing and I am jsut gonna run longer bump stops
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=774795&highlight=winter+build&page=3

hilux-1983 · « **Reply #23 on:** Aug 01, 2009, 11:57:58 PM »

Cool. I was just asking cuz I wasn't quite sure why you were adding it. My questions were not to mock you. Some folks tend to stick there nose where it don't belong and I wanted to let you know that. Thanks for understanding my misunderstanding. If you need any specific details with or with out pics on how to install this stuff just ask away. Can you post the link that you were talking about from pirate? I'd like to see it. thanks

4x4yota · « **Reply #24 on:** Aug 02, 2009, 12:02:26 AM »

link posted it jst took a while to show up sorry

and if you could recomend any tools/parts Ill need...

high steer (on order)
Ifs box
mounting plate
3/4" hole saw?
heavyduty drill
welder
"missing anything"

4x4yota · « **Reply #25 on:** Aug 02, 2009, 11:06:23 PM »

got my rear springs built today used a set of stock 82 4x4 rears took off the over loads and added a leaf (4th leaf from a 3" ranch front spring)... the pack looks good I want to clean it up and paint it...
my boomerang shackle should be here ether tomorrow or tues... and highsteer should be here by friday so hopfully I can start next tues&wed on my days off

4x4yota · « **Reply #26 on:** Aug 04, 2009, 11:22:39 PM »

high steer will be here thursday but my order for my IFS box mount didnt go thru so my progress is delayed... and I am also looking to use someaxle relocation plates to put my axle about .5-.75" forward rather than 1.375

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #27 on:** Aug 05, 2009, 01:04:17 AM »

You have an early housing, there shouldn't be any holes in the pads yet so you can drill them wherever you want. I'd still move it ahead as far as you can now to save the headache later..

4x4yota · « **Reply #28 on:** Aug 05, 2009, 01:32:43 AM »

ok just thought Id put out a feeler...
and the way I figured I can mount my box far forward using one factory hole and still clear my draglink/tierod with my flat pitman arm...

another Q is do I need the frame plate IFS mount kit or can I just drill a hole big enough to mount the box and make a bracket for the top mount?

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #29 on:** Aug 05, 2009, 01:53:55 AM »

You don't need any kit. I use 1/2" schedule 40 pipe and 1/4" plate. The pipe needs a 7/8" hole so you'll need that bit too.

Don't get lazy, drill the second hole and put the top pipe on top of the frame.

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