tearing down the 22R...

Started by kyle_22r, October 21, 2004, 04:00:57 PM

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kyle_22r

i'm tearing apart my (now just a core) 22R today.  after a nice struggle and quite a few whacks with my big freakin mallet on the head, i'm left with this...eeeew!

i can see the cross hatch well on #4 and faintly on the others(through the light coat of surface rust/gunk).

this leads me to the question...what do i do now?  i can still see crosshatch, am i just going to need to give these cylinders a good wipe down with a rag and solvent and then rebuild it with new rings?  the pistons and valves look good except for the nice coating of carbon crud on everything.  no dinged aluminum or burned exhaust valves.  should i take her to the machine shop and get it professionally looked at?

Mike D

Yeah i woyld just run up to a machine shop and have them resurface it and also just look it over
87 runner, 4" trailmaster lift, 33" TSL/SX, 5.29's V6 e-locker, 22re that cost too much

kyle_22r

oops, forgot the picture:


79coyotefrg

dude,   buy yourself a bottle brush hone and give it another hone and some new rings and bearings
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

Mike D

yeah what he said and i'm loving the double row timing chain
87 runner, 4" trailmaster lift, 33" TSL/SX, 5.29's V6 e-locker, 22re that cost too much

79coyotefrg

 :smack: well assuming a few spins of the hone cleans up that rust  :smack:
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

Mike D

well now that i think of it i would just bore it out to fit the larger 94mm pistons cause that is quite a bit of rust
87 runner, 4" trailmaster lift, 33" TSL/SX, 5.29's V6 e-locker, 22re that cost too much

79coyotefrg

use a small phillips head and punch those holes out for those water jackets when you put that head back on,  it will run cooler and will still get good crossflow in the head  :driving:
everytime i have replaced a head gasket without doing that it over heats and if going fast (over 4000rpm) will always blow the gasket
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

BigMike

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kyle_22r

that rust doesn't look very serious if you ask me.  it's a very, very light coating, i can wipe most of it away with my fingers

anywhere that shows how to use a hone properly?  looking at the tool, and looking at how you're supposed to get a certain angle kinda boggles my mind.

when i throw it back together, i'm planning on using aluminum rockers and an engnbldr RV cam :thumbs:

79coyotefrg

just put some light oil on your hone stick it in the cylinder and start your drill ,you just need to stroke it up and down ( kinda like doing your oldlady) as it spins to make a crosshatch, dont do it too much, you just want to clean it up not make it .030 over
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

Mike D

Also ATF works awsome as a cleaner for the cylinder walls should take it all off.
87 runner, 4" trailmaster lift, 33" TSL/SX, 5.29's V6 e-locker, 22re that cost too much

YotaYota

witch engnbldr cam did you get, the 261' or the 270', i threw a header on w/ the 270 cam, it made a HUGE difference, its got awsome throttle response and it revs really fast, well worth the 90 bucks. gonna do a timing chain kit too ??
85' Yota P/U, 37X12.50X17 BFG MT's on Steelys, Duel Cases, (2.28X4.7), V6 3rds Locked and Loaded W/ 4.88's, AllPro Rear Disk Brakes, Profeilds, All-Pro Front Sus., 4-Link w/ Sway-A-Way Air Shox, Flat Belly

kyle_22r

haven't bought anything yet. i'm still waiting to either find a competent machine shop or figure out how to do any block work myself such as deglazing that thing.  maybe i'll pick up a micrometer and some other stuff on monday when i get paid.

i'm probably going to get a new timing set as well.  '82 was the last year of the bulletproof timing setup, but i figure the chain is probably stretched from 22 years of use so it could stand to be replaced while it's easy to do.  it seemed like a pretty tight engine, but it has the typical old age problems, like low compression and seals headed downhill.  i wanna make her run better than new again :thumbs:

WHITE_TRASH

Ball hones suck get a stone hone and use some penetrating oil as lube.  You just gotta pushi it in and pull it back about 10 times as it is spinning to knock the rust/glaze off of the walls.
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

79coyotefrg

i've always used a  3 stone hone but lately i been using a bottlebrush for some reason
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

WHITE_TRASH

I've always used stones because they keep the finish smoother and way more even than bottle brushes. 
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

kyle_22r

how do you get the specific degree on the crosshatch with a stone hone?  is it sort of guesswork as to how fast you push it down and pull it back up?

ah well, if i blow this thing up, i could always experiment with some kind of american motor, preferably of the V6 kind :gap:  i'd like to see this thing run nicely again, though

WHITE_TRASH

Figure you want a 20 degree crosshatch.  Its easy to get the rythem down.  Once you have a little bit of practice on an old engine its easy.
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??