Welding the transmission case

Started by Defi, October 16, 2004, 12:01:43 AM

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Defi

Hey, i just got a crack on my transmission case right on the bottom of the fill plug area.  Theres actually two cracks right next to each other in that area.  It leaks like a pregnant dog .  Just wondering what you all think about welding her shut.

Mike D

well there is a possibiliy of the case turning into a crack like a spider web right when you touch heat on it.
87 runner, 4" trailmaster lift, 33" TSL/SX, 5.29's V6 e-locker, 22re that cost too much

Jared

ah the beauty of a cuttin torch

Skinny_Pedal

Im an OG

shortbus

 To keep the cracks from growing you need to drill holes all the way through the case to stop the crack. Grind a groove right allong the cracks and tig weld them. You would need to drain the oil and clean the area real good. OR JB weld it 

Fireimp141

I JB'd my gas tank, still workin, just gotta get one coat on... let sit for a wee bit, then put another huge coat on. The first coat acts to fill in the holes and then the 2nd hardens it, i found this out after the stuff wouldnt stop leakin :thumbs:
86 Toyota 4runner, 33X12.5-15 Aurora RT/02's on Series 97 15X10 rock crawlers, 3" performance body lift, Rancho RS5000's... Soon to be Marlin 1200 Clutch, tube bumper front and rear, nerf bars and roof rack... future plans include SAS 5.29's detroits!

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Marlin

What year and type trans?
Cast iron or aluninum?
If you plan on welding it, The trans must first be removed, dissambled, and cleaned of all oil. It cannot be repaired in the truck :_order:

Using glue or JB Weld is just a band aid.

I have many housing in stock.
You need to do the job right the first time :_order:

Marlin
1980 Toyota - 1997 3RZ-FE 2.7l Engine, Turbo R151F 4.31:1, Triple Turbo Marlin Crawler Billet (2.28x4.70x4.70) = 1,148:1 Crawl Ratio, Marlin Crawler Twin Stick and Short Throw Shift Kits, 30mm H/D Output Shaft, High Angle Drive Lines, 5.29:1, ARBs, High Pinion Front, 25mm HD Billet High Steer Kit, 6 Pin Locking Hub Bodies, 86+ Wide Rear End, V6 3rd member, Chromolly Axles all around, 37" IROKs with Beadlocks, York onboard air - Rollbar air tank, Premier Power Welder, Marlin Crawler 4" USA-made Leaf Springs, Bilstein Shocks, et cetera....

jvministries

that band aid can stay on for a long time in most cases and to replace the transmission housing isn't going to be an easy thing to do.

but like marlin said you want to do it right. it will have to be removed and drained and cleaned out then welded if you are going to weld it.

too much spent to go slow
too much spent to stay low
too much spent on the go
but it's fun you know

cgbemis

Replacing the housing isn't as hard as you might think. Where it gets interesting, is if something gets caught inside the tranny preventing you from physically seperating the housing from the center section, or if you decide once you're in there, that you need to replace things like bearings and/or gears. Other than that, it isn't that bad a job at all really.

Defi

Thanks yall, :bowdown:
Marlin on the housing are they new or used, what do they run for. :twocents:

jvministries

once I had mine removed from the truck the guy at the tranny shop had it setting on his table in several peices and parts and had it diagnosed showing me the broken areas and damaged teeth and stuff in about 15 minutes.

keep in mind he had air tools and the work bench for just cracking it open and putting parts everywhere.

it looked easy enough. what I was talking about was the dropping it out and getting it there part.


too much spent to go slow
too much spent to stay low
too much spent on the go
but it's fun you know