Topic: need to pull head after all...

[drayday55]

    well, now that i did all the work basicaly rebuilding the whole truck , i thought i was about done.  timming chain job is 3 weeks old
i did not pull the head when i did the chain.    i saw some waxy crap under the exhaust manifold under #1 piston  thought it was melted something.

yesterday saw green so you know what that means.   its weaping out of the head gasket.   soo.  i got some peletized bars leak brand cooling system stop leak to see if it helps.  im gonna clean the crud off the block and see if it did anything.

the bars leak brand is the bomb.  its been around a long time it is used by gm on almost all new cars straight out of the factory to help seal any possible leaks for good.

when i worked at a chevy dealer parts dep back in 98 they had the stuff with gm logo fine print said barsleak.

anyways  ill report on how good it did.
now i need to rebuild the longblock i have sitting on my engine stand!!  ill start with the head in case the headgasket lets go in a hurry!

ill be ready for it.    i hope the barsleak buys me 6 months so i can do a bullitproof rebuild on the block.    should i go for lc eng. kit?

im gonna use factory cam and rockers, new springs , and retainers, head studs from arp,  gonna port and clean up the head myself

ill take some pictures as i never done this before.  lc has oversized valves taht only need clearance work and a performance valve job
my buddy owns a machine shop and he is teaching me to do a complete valve job on my own stuff in case i mess up 
port match to the gaskets  and basicaly keep the bottom end to a stock speck, but balanced out and deburred = bombproof hopefully

any other suggestions while im in there sould be good.  im thinking of getting  total seal rings and use stock pistons as long as they are in good shape.

[emsvitil]

Check out engine builder..........  (search for something like enginebldr)

[drayday55 [OP]]

i got the t-chain kit from him,  my machinest buddy said rock parts are crap  either oem or federal mogule are good, im sure others are to , my t-chain seems to be doing good though. i cannot see em being bad. i think it oppinion

[79coyotefrg]

........im gonna use factory cam and rockers, new springs , and retainers, head studs from arp,  gonna port and clean up the head myself

ill take some pictures as i never done this before.  lc has oversized valves taht only need clearance work and a performance valve job
my buddy owns a machine shop and he is teaching me to do a complete valve job on my own stuff in case i mess up 
port match to the gaskets  and basicaly keep the bottom end to a stock speck, but balanced out and deburred = bombproof hopefully

any other suggestions while im in there sould be good.  im thinking of getting  total seal rings and use stock pistons as long as they are in good shape.

doing all that work on the head, valves and intake and then using a stock cam is kinda like your wife/girlfriend buying a sexy nighty and then covering it up with a army canvas,  it just doesnt do much

if your doing that much custom work on the head and intake get yourself a cam from LC thats gonna make that extra work you do REALLY SHOW some gains

here's a cam ( $159) from LC that will put some kick in that engines ass ---> http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGear/ProductDetails.aspx?PartUniqueID=2B3BCB39-57B7-4E3B-9C29-71F773B35A7B

[drayday55 [OP]]

i hear you, I'm looking to improve breathing, maximizing hp , of course the best combination for power, efficiency, durability m and emissions is stock, so i was thinking to keep the stock cam.   i  really want a cam though ,  changing out rockers is gonna cost me to much though

[kneedownnate]

You absolutely can not go wrong with the factory toyota gasket, and they're not much more.  The nominal cost difference is well offset by the vastly higher quality than felpro and similar gaskets!  20r head gaskets are a bit spendy, but 22r gaskets are fairly cheap.  

[drayday55 [OP]]

 im most def. gonna go with a toyota gasket.    i pulled the head off the motor in my garage, it was bored .50 over

i knew it had a rebuild 20k ago, i still cannot believe my bro in laws parents spent 3000 rebuilding a motor in a truck worth $100 bux lol!!!

the motor turns over so nice, the cylinders are smooth , no ridge at the top, just alot of carbon, and he did not take care of it at all.  the cooling system had so much crap inside.  the passages were so fouled up where they meet the gaskets.

so im gonna take the head to get started tomorrow, im gonna pull the t-chain and do that again and basicaly pull everything but the pistons.  my Q is  why were some of the head bolts covered with oil and they smelled chard bad!

also what is the best method for getting the gunk out of the water passages?

or should i pull the crank , and pistons  ,  tank the block , hone and reassemble?

[79coyotefrg]

i hear you, I'm looking to improve breathing, maximizing hp , of course the best combination for power, efficiency, durability m and emissions is stock, so i was thinking to keep the stock cam.   i  really want a cam though ,  changing out rockers is gonna cost me to much though

  ok  i wasnt aware  you had this vast experience building 22R's 

my bad

[79coyotefrg]

im most def. gonna go with a toyota gasket.    i pulled the head off the motor in my garage, it was bored .50 over

i knew it had a rebuild 20k ago, i still cannot believe my bro in laws parents spent 3000 rebuilding a motor in a truck worth $100 bux lol!!!

the motor turns over so nice, the cylinders are smooth , no ridge at the top, just alot of carbon, and he did not take care of it at all.  the cooling system had so much crap inside.  the passages were so fouled up where they meet the gaskets.

so im gonna take the head to get started tomorrow, im gonna pull the t-chain and do that again and basicaly pull everything but the pistons.  my Q is  why were some of the head bolts covered with oil and they smelled chard bad!

also what is the best method for getting the gunk out of the water passages?

or should i pull the crank , and pistons  ,  tank the block , hone and reassemble?

20K miles since rebuild??  i wouldnt  mess with the block unless the pistons are flopping around in the cylinders

[drayday55 [OP]]

actually i never have rebuilt 22rs   my experience is with vw motors, for sure well developed aftermarket cams are better performing, but there is the trade off of fuel milage. and longevity  and the block was not bored .50 over,  its actually .020 over  the pistons have a marking of .50  which is next size overbore i think.  i just found out the head is a china casting,  the valve seats on the exhaust side was so pitted  in only 20 k miles.   I'm torn if i should do a mild port job or just slam it on my current block in the truck get it running and build up the other one with a Toyota head slowly.
does anyone here have a Chinese head that has lasted a good long time?
also the turd that rebuilt the motor last tightened #3 exhaust to .005 thou and it wrecked the cam and the rocker arm!!

lucky my bud has an extra 22re cam EM  . ill go to pick-a-part on sat to find a used rocker. 
bumbed out that i have a aftermarket head.

[79coyotefrg]

actually i never have rebuilt 22rs   my experience is with vw motors, for sure well developed aftermarket cams are better performing, but there is the trade off of fuel milage. and longevity  and the block was not bored .50 over,  its actually .020 over  the pistons have a marking of .50  which is next size overbore i think.  i just found out the head is a china casting,  the valve seats on the exhaust side was so pitted  in only 20 k miles.   I'm torn if i should do a mild port job or just slam it on my current block in the truck get it running and build up the other one with a Toyota head slowly.
does anyone here have a Chinese head that has lasted a good long time?
also the turd that rebuilt the motor last tightened #3 exhaust to .005 thou and it wrecked the cam and the rocker arm!!

lucky my bud has an extra 22re cam EM  . ill go to pick-a-part on sat to find a used rocker. 
bumbed out that i have a aftermarket head.

piston markings are in mm

.5mm is the same as .020 inches

in these engines the power is found in the head and cam,  the 22R has a long stroke so they designed the cam to make the engine run out of breath before it ran the rods out the side of the block

ive been running a LC engineering stage 2 race cam for about 6 years and it didnt give any problems with mileage, in fact my fuel mileage didnt change at all,  but i REALLY noticed the power,   running 70 mph on the interstate,  then  drop the foot to the floor and it runs up to 90 (before i went to 35's)  havent even tried to get THAT fast since the wreck,  (not related to speed) i can easily get to 80 though

the cam i suggested to you is milder than the cam i run and can be put on any 22R or 22RE

[drayday55 [OP]]

wow, i really would like to run faster than 70 without death wobble!

i cant figure out what it is.   the axles are new drive shaft is new
I'm thinking its the toe??   i never touched it  could this shake at between 65 and 75?
also was thinking it was the d-shaft but i took my bore scope (seesnake) camera and ran it under the truck while i drove it
i pointed it at the carrier bearing-  i saw no abnormal vibration from the d-shaft.

as for the head  , yeah I'm thinking of getting a pro street cam, i don't want to change the rockers though.
i went to the yard today and got a rocker.  i found a couple of rocker Assemblies by some celica/supras.  hope they are the same  i think so.    noticed the adjusters were rounded   can i grind the tips like valves?  or buy new?

i also started polishing the combustion chamers with some sand paper by hand. really went quick. i only did  #3 and it looks pretty damn good to me!  smoothed out all sharp edges any unnecessary ridges were ground down between the valves.
I'm gonna smoother out the back end of the seats and the rest of the runners with a dremmel and then hand polish the rest.
gonna leave the intake rough  most likely just use some 80 grit sand paper and rough sand it so the a/f mixture still combines well. the exhaust and combustion chamber will get smooth out to 600 grit after . ill post some pics after i complete the whole #3 from in to out!  port match all.  i also hid a complete efi intake at the j-yard waiting for sale day 1/2 off sale!!

should i cut down the valve guide?  obviously this will accelerate wear and totally contradict my objective , but this is a Chinese head and i don't think ill get more than 80 thousand miles out of it.
thanks for the tips  79coyotefrg

[79coyotefrg]

i would NOT cut the valve guides at all,  you can smooth around them but dont shorten them

you can have a new cam and get your rocker pads resurfaced at a good machine shop so they are "like new" as far as running in a new cam is concerned

one thing you need to look at in that head is the oil passages under the cam,  theres a (more or less) 1/4 inch hole under the cam in each journal, make sure those holes pass all the way down into the head bolt holes they correspond with

as far as the death wobble,  your trunion bearings, are they new??  you need to make sure your knuckles have the proper preload

then  get yourself a couple pieces of angle iron thats very straight, and as long as the tires you are running tall

remove both front tires and clamp the angle iron to the brake calipers
you want them to be horizontal (aka parallel to the ground)

have a friend hold the end of a tape measure on the back of one side while you look at the tape on your side,  write that number down

then move to the front (of the angle iron) and get a measurement there also

you want to adjust the tie rod till your front side is 1/8th - 3/16th inch shorter on the front than the back  this gives you 1/8th inch toe IN

[drayday55 [OP]]

cool,  never thought the trunnion bearings could do that.  i never measured preload when i did the rebuild, original was one thick top bottom both sides . when i swapped in the new axle housing i just did the one thick and one thin as recommended by most.

should i take out the thin shim on top?   thanks for the alignment tip ill check it out . ( i get horizontal lol, do i come off that dense?)

[79coyotefrg]

cool,  never thought the trunnion bearings could do that.  i never measured preload when i did the rebuild, original was one thick top bottom both sides . when i swapped in the new axle housing i just did the one thick and one thin as recommended by most.

should i take out the thin shim on top?

you need to kinda test the preload, this DOES require removing the tie rod so you are only doing one knuckle at a time


 

  thanks for the alignment tip ill check it out . ( i get horizontal lol, do i come off that dense?)

[drayday55 [OP]]

well, i took off a thin shim off the top and it did get a little better,  the preload did feel the same tough. i also turned the toe out 1 turn on the tierod as the toe was in about 1/2 inch!!
so, i think i naild it!

[79coyotefrg]

if the preload fealt the same, pull the thin off the bottom, i bet that makes it tighter, BUT if it doesnt, well i bet it does