Topic: Brake light never turns off

[Aaronm]

After doing the SAS on my 87 runner the brake light on the dash permanently stays on. I swapped in a new master cylinder from kragen and left the brake calipers alone. I did try both tops off my old master cylinder and new master cylinder and the light doesn't go out. I unplugged the switch to the Ebrake and this didn't change anything either. What do I need to check next? I don't have any other lights coming if this helps.

[Tallchevy]

My 87 4Runner does the same thing, there is a tab on the ebrake rod that must contact the switch when the ebrake is released.

[Aaronm [OP]]

Checked the tab and it is pushing the switch in, is there anything else that could cause this?

[junya92toy]

its possible the float in the cap is no longer floating. Mine did that so I did what any reasonable person did. I unhooked the wire.

[TacoRunner]

stupid question but did you check the e-brake. Has it released all the way.

[Aaronm [OP]]

The E- brake looks like it is all the way down and it engages the switch. The float is new and I tried both the old top and the new with the same results. If I disconnect the top of the master cylinder the light stays on, same with the switch on the e brake. Haven't tried to disconnect both switches, that will be next.

[Tallchevy]

Have you tried pushing the e-brake switch with it connected to see if the light goes out?

[emsvitil]

Pull the wire off the distribution block and see if it turns off.

[Aaronm [OP]]

Pull the wire off the distribution block and see if it turns off.

Where is the distribution block? Are you talking about the plug in the back of the speedometer housing?

[Aaronm [OP]]

Have you tried pushing the e-brake switch with it connected to see if the light goes out?

Pushed it in several times and the light gets dimmer but doesn't go out.

[emsvitil]

Where is the distribution block? Are you talking about the plug in the back of the speedometer housing?

Should be in the engine compartment.   Usually on the firewall or close to it.

Follow the lines from the master until you find it.

[Grunt]

Second this, happened to my 86

its possible the float in the cap is no longer floating. Mine did that so I did what any reasonable person did. I unhooked the wire.

[boobap]

even with the wire unhooked, the light will still stay on wont it?

[Aaronm [OP]]

Disconnected both the master cylinder top wires and the switch at the bottom of the parking brake and the light is still on. Checked the float and it moves up and down when placed in the fluid. Swapped old top of M/C back on and have no change at all. Traced out the wires from the M/C top and they are in plastic into the inside of the fender. When I cycle the switch for the E-brake I see a change in the light when I cycle the switch on top of the M/C i see no change with either top. Also checked both brake lights, jiggled wires, checked muffler bearings, and checked the blinker fluid. All check good. This is driving my even crazier than normal.

Does the Load sensing valve for the rear axle have any electrics in it? I don't see any, but the only other thing I can thing of changing is swapping in 63 chevies which raised up the back of my rig when I was doing the SAS.

[*ROKTOY*]

Mine does the same thing if after I release the brake I don't pull it back up about 2" and slam it back down. I thinks it sticks right at the last little bit and dose not depress the switch enough.

[Aaronm [OP]]

Help me figure this out, I talk to an old toyota mechanic and he tells me to rebleed the entire brake system and then stomp hard on the brake. According to him this will correct an imbalance in the system and shut the light off. SO I bleed the brakes, stomp on them as hard as I can a couple of times, and then this morning the light is off. I haven't driven it for three days so it sat for a while but the light is off. Anyone ever hear of anything like this? 

[emsvitil]

Help me figure this out, I talk to an old toyota mechanic and he tells me to rebleed the entire brake system and then stomp hard on the brake. According to him this will correct an imbalance in the system and shut the light off. SO I bleed the brakes, stomp on them as hard as I can a couple of times, and then this morning the light is off. I haven't driven it for three days so it sat for a while but the light is off. Anyone ever hear of anything like this? 

Yes, it recenters the switch in the distribution block (that I mentioned previously)