Author Topic: Cluctch Prob Still  (Read 2541 times)

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Sparkplug

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Cluctch Prob Still
« on: Dec 30, 2008, 07:23:51 PM »
Well, I changed my master and slave sylinders in hopes to fix my problem with my truck. I pulled the clutch, and it was fine, cleaned up bearing and shaft, replaced fluid, and bled it. Still wont go into any forward gears at all when truck is on, and grinds going into reverse. If I shift 4wd it will go, but i can feel that gears are moving in there, and its not how it should be when in neutral. It will start in 1st, and drive fine, same for reverse. Im at a loss as to what could be causing this. Any ideas would be appreciated.
2008 TRD 4x4 Double Cab Tacoma
1994 12 valve 5 speed 4x4 single cab dodge 2500
1986 22re 5speed 3link 4runner (the beater)
1982 3rz swapped pickup (in progress)

79coyotefrg

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Re: Cluctch Prob Still
« Reply #1 on: Dec 30, 2008, 07:38:45 PM »
did you ever make the slave to fork rod longer??  i'm thinking NOT :slap:
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

Sparkplug [OP]

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Re: Cluctch Prob Still
« Reply #2 on: Dec 30, 2008, 08:25:09 PM »
How do I do this?
2008 TRD 4x4 Double Cab Tacoma
1994 12 valve 5 speed 4x4 single cab dodge 2500
1986 22re 5speed 3link 4runner (the beater)
1982 3rz swapped pickup (in progress)

toyotanner

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Re: Cluctch Prob Still
« Reply #3 on: Dec 30, 2008, 10:20:54 PM »
weld an extension on the slave rod.... sometimes the rods arent long enough to disengage the clutch

RABIDYOTA

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Re: Cluctch Prob Still
« Reply #4 on: Dec 31, 2008, 10:08:48 AM »
check the clutch pedal bracket they tend to break around the master cylinder mount just to the lower left of the cylinder then it will pull the upper bolt out of the cowl plays havok with the adjustment

79coyotefrg

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Re: Cluctch Prob Still
« Reply #5 on: Dec 31, 2008, 10:55:16 AM »
How do I do this?
remove the rod, then find a bolt like 3/8 inch longer, cut the head off and install, if it still doesnt release try 1/2 inch longer
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

Sparkplug [OP]

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Re: Cluctch Prob Still
« Reply #6 on: Jan 02, 2009, 07:15:28 PM »
I lengthened the rod, but now the cylinder wont bolt up. I dont know what to do Im at a loss, dont know what the problem is. It might need a longer rod, but what would cause it to all of a sudden need one. The rod in the new slave is the same length as the one in the old slave. Any ideas appreciated.
2008 TRD 4x4 Double Cab Tacoma
1994 12 valve 5 speed 4x4 single cab dodge 2500
1986 22re 5speed 3link 4runner (the beater)
1982 3rz swapped pickup (in progress)

RABIDYOTA

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Re: Cluctch Prob Still
« Reply #7 on: Jan 03, 2009, 02:06:06 PM »
making a longer rod is usaly just a bandade check you master cylinder  adjustment and you'r FIREWALL THEY DO CRACK

Sparkplug [OP]

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Re: Cluctch Prob Still
« Reply #8 on: Jan 03, 2009, 08:34:03 PM »
where is the adjustment on the master cylinder at?
2008 TRD 4x4 Double Cab Tacoma
1994 12 valve 5 speed 4x4 single cab dodge 2500
1986 22re 5speed 3link 4runner (the beater)
1982 3rz swapped pickup (in progress)

kneedownnate

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Re: Cluctch Prob Still
« Reply #9 on: Jan 03, 2009, 08:55:55 PM »
You adjust it from the inside of the cab.  There are threads and a jam nut iirc. 
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Sparkplug [OP]

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Re: Cluctch Prob Still
« Reply #10 on: Jan 03, 2009, 08:58:50 PM »
so do i adjust it out more or less to get it longer? Should it come set right?
2008 TRD 4x4 Double Cab Tacoma
1994 12 valve 5 speed 4x4 single cab dodge 2500
1986 22re 5speed 3link 4runner (the beater)
1982 3rz swapped pickup (in progress)

KDXSR5

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Re: Cluctch Prob Still
« Reply #11 on: Jan 03, 2009, 10:55:49 PM »
There is a procedure to follow in the FSM. I would do it that way

83MT

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Re: Cluctch Prob Still
« Reply #12 on: Jan 05, 2009, 07:42:25 AM »
When I put my new master cylinder in I first sat it down next to the old one to try to make it line up & look the same as the old one. The peice that connects to your actual clutch pedal is on threads, so you just unhook it from the pedal and spin it. You can also turn the actual rod to get it slightly longer if it needs it. The longer it is, and farther you have the actual connection out on the threads, the closer to the top of the pedal the clutch will engage, I think I remember. The FSM does describe it pretty well if you've got one. If the rod is screwed in really far (making it short), or the clutch pedal connector thingy is threaded too far onto the rod (again making things short), the pedal will engage really close to the floor. And I suppose if it's off far enough either way you may not be able to work it at all, but I'm not sure...
Zach
I like Yotatech

KDXSR5

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Re: Cluctch Prob Still
« Reply #13 on: Jan 05, 2009, 07:57:35 AM »
And I suppose if it's off far enough either way you may not be able to work it at all, but I'm not sure...


Yup. Happened to me.

 
 
 
 
 

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