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I never said the input makes a difference. go ahead and push 1/2 ohm through a 4ohm stable amp at 500Watts. just do it. I am done contributing to the thread now that the "smart" people have joined in.
If my math is correct:In parallel, 2 ohm + 2 ohm = 4 ohm & 4 ohm + 4 ohm = 8 ohmIn serires, 2 ohm + 2 ohm = 1 ohm & 4 ohm + 4 ohm = 2 ohm
im glad i know enough about car stereo to make my stuff sound goo on my own, cause you guys would all be confussing the out of me
The math is correct, circuit type was incorrect though.
Considering the constraints that KDXSR5 is dealing with, I would probably just run the front speakers directly from the head unit (I don't think an aux amp would greatly improve the overall sound quality). Unless a subwoofer is in the plan you could run the LOW Level RCA inputs to an aux 2 channel amp and simply use it to power the larger rear channel speakers. I believe this would make the installation fairly simple, minimize cost and still yield an improved sound.This could work and be about as low buck as it could get.... but how "low buck" and how "high quality" you're looking for will narrow it down to what you really want or end up with. What do you mean by circuit type? Sorry, I probably should have said that your labeling of the circuit types was reversed as far as series and parallel.
Sorry to hijack, I have a quick question:MTX TXC6.0What is this and how well does it work? It is the last one at the bottom of the page.http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.extremebassaudio.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/TXC6.gif&imgrefurl=http://www.extremebassaudio.com/catalog/c27_p1.html&usg=__RvmDjEDr4tbzw8bjCmieleJOwlQ=&h=492&w=738&sz=124&hl=en&start=1&tbnid=15tBp86PafswSM:&tbnh=94&tbnw=141&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dmtx%2Btxc%2B6.0%26gbv%3D2%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff
It appears to be a mid-bass component speaker.
I canŽt believe nobody has suggested adding sound insulation. When I moved my Alpine Type-S 6.5" co-axials to my current truck I also put some tarmat in the front doors. I put a double layer on the outerskin to prevent vibrations and block out road noise. I put a single layer on the inner skin to prevent vibrations and to make the door tighter. By closing all the holes in the inner skin your woofer will provide much sharper and detailed midbass. If the backside of the speaker is not well sealed from the front side you will get less than desired performance from your speaker. If the soundwaves from the back react the front you will get cancelling, the soundwaves will cancel each other out to some degree.I noticed that my midbass was much sharper then in my old truck and there was not as much rattle when I turned it up. I also greased the rods for the locking mechanism so they stopped rattling. I also have extra insulation on the bottom/floor of the cab, this is a mat that is laid under hardwood floors, its a rubbery poly something. It works great and is easy to take out and put in.I plan on putting tarmat in the rear doors as well, back of the cab, top and floor. This should make it much nicer to daily drive then the all vinyl interior I have now.
since dynomat is like 10$ a square foot...you can get the same stuff but its designed for roof flashing, you can pick it up at most contractor building supply store. you can get a big ass roll that will do every inch of your truck x2 for like 40$
What I used is similar to those. It was some leftovers from a big rig shop. They use it on flatpanels to stop them from flexing and vibrating. It has aluminum backing and what looks like tar to makeŽem stick. Smells bad but the smell fades fast.
This stuff? http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100386646&N=10000003+90094+501163
4.0 always sounds better than 4.1, but it requires large main speakers and a good amp. Subs have always been a method to cheat a bit. In home theater, especially, a sub is good, because people don't have speakers the size of a small fridge. This is why it's better musically to have a small stack of 8 inchers if you play bass as opposed to a chuffy 12-15 inch single driver - the bottom note on a 4 string bass isn't even 40hz!(41.204 hz). A 5 string is 30.868hz, which is as low bass notes go with rock and pop and so on. 35hz vs 30hz isn't a huge compromise.
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