Author Topic: BodyLift? (Read 4012 times)

SWAMPER · « **on:** Sep 03, 2004, 10:27:14 PM »

Hey guys I was looking around for a body lift but they only make em for Runners that have a manual tranny....why not those with the auto?

muddinyota · « **Reply #1 on:** Sep 03, 2004, 10:44:10 PM »

good ?? I

why. It shouldnt matter because the tranny is cable shift i think.Other than that the trucks are the same.

SWAMPER · « **Reply #2 on:** Sep 03, 2004, 10:47:22 PM »

So if I get a B&M shifter I should be good?

dirtbag · « **Reply #3 on:** Sep 03, 2004, 10:48:45 PM »

no clue.

muddinyota · « **Reply #4 on:** Sep 03, 2004, 10:49:29 PM »

yea you will be fine

Mike D · « **Reply #5 on:** Sep 03, 2004, 10:56:52 PM »

Because your tranny is connected to your frame and the shifter is connected to your body. my bro has a 3" body and he can't get in to low with out holding the lever down.

SWAMPER · « **Reply #6 on:** Sep 03, 2004, 10:57:35 PM »

Dude are you sure or your just talking out of your

....no disrespect....but when Im drunk I teach college professors stuff

SWAMPER · « **Reply #7 on:** Sep 03, 2004, 10:59:43 PM »

Quote from: Mike D on Sep 03, 2004, 10:56:52 PM

Because your tranny is connected to your frame and the shifter is connected to your body. my bro has a 3" body and he can't get in to low with out holding the lever down.

So would getting a B&M shifter solve this?

Mike D · « **Reply #8 on:** Sep 03, 2004, 11:06:02 PM »

no, just think when getting a body lift you are making a larger gap between the base of your auto shifter and where it is mounted to the body so therefor the shifter will be lowered by 2 inches (figuring that you are getting a 2" lift) and lowering that by 2 inches will will make it to where you will need to drop the entire shifter assembally by 2 inches. i would just take a sawzall and cut complety around the shifter assembally then put on the body lift then with it all together weld in a piece of sheet metal to cover up the 2 inch gap. and the shifter wouldn't do anything

Mike D · « **Reply #9 on:** Sep 03, 2004, 11:08:32 PM »

the difference between the autos and the manuals it the auto is an complete assembally and the manul is just a connected to the tranny.

SWAMPER · « **Reply #10 on:** Sep 03, 2004, 11:10:26 PM »

Ok....lets say I just make extensions (thought I may just do what you said but I want options)

muddinyota · « **Reply #11 on:** Sep 03, 2004, 11:23:26 PM »

well if you were going to get a b&m shifter you would be removing all the parts anyway and the new shifter comes with a new cover and boot and has a cable with a ton of brackets that can be made to fit the linkage as nec. unless the problem is the 4x4 shifter just cut the floor out a little, i had to do that to mine when i put the 3" in my truck and its a manual trans,mine kept popping out of 4low so i cut the floor

SWAMPER · « **Reply #12 on:** Sep 03, 2004, 11:27:09 PM »

I will have to give this comments to the guys at Wiked offroad....and see what they say

muddinyota · « **Reply #13 on:** Sep 03, 2004, 11:35:39 PM »

you dont even see the cut its under the cover and you cant even see it.i only had to cut about 3-4" out in the low range postion only.but that truck has a rod that is attached to the shifter and that is what he is talking about thats why his brother had to hold it in low so all you have to do is make the rod longer or get the b&m and just use the cable in the kit

Mike D · « **Reply #14 on:** Sep 04, 2004, 01:38:30 AM »

making the 4wd shifter longer would do nothing except make it longer unless the shifter has a straight shaft. it wouldn't allow you to shift into low with it staying in place except if you took off the factory shift boot and grinded about an inch and a half but that is with a 3" body on a stick.

88runner · « **Reply #15 on:** Sep 04, 2004, 05:24:13 AM »

hey I had a 3" body lift while still IFS(now cut down to 2" cause I lifted the gas tank 2" and can't go lower) and I have a auto trans., so no it can't work

Skinny_Pedal · « **Reply #16 on:** Sep 04, 2004, 11:03:18 AM »

theres nothing wrong with cutting parts swamp, its part of the sport

robinhood4x4 · « **Reply #17 on:** Sep 04, 2004, 08:35:35 PM »

Lilswamper, you need to do your research on boards which aren't so hardcore. You'll find better answers for your newer toyota.
You solid axle, hardcore, old junk, guys need to study up, I'm always correcting you guys.

Hehe

Roger Brown has a BL kit for auto trannies: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml

But why do you want a BL? BLs are for posers who just want to look cool (well, for anything over 2 inches anyway). You can fit 33s with a tbar crank, some body massaging and a 1" BL from roger. You don't gain anything by going to a larger BL than 1 inch, except a higher CG.

jvministries · « **Reply #18 on:** Sep 17, 2004, 10:41:58 PM »

so let's see the body lift that is 2.5 inches on my rig didn't gain me anything right except a lower center of gravity over say a frame lift of the same height seeing as I just lifted the body higher not the frame and engine and tranny and bumpers and everything else.

anyway what I gained soon went away with the engine lift and transmision lift and gas tank liftI think it's called a drive train lift

then I lifted the frame anyways but very little 3 inches of suspension 2.5 in body for a total of 5.5 in lift so I guess the only real gain I have is that the frame isn't lifted 5 inches but only 3 instead and with flatter springs they want to flex better than over arched lift springs.

rears up front with 63's in the rear

so I don't know but it was an easy way to get cheap lift and ended up helping some in the end results since it allowed enough room under the frame for the dual batteries and the extra gas tank between the rear frame rails.

cheap and easy was the key here it took me an afternoon to install it with no experience at all as to how to do it. was a learn as you go type thing and was easy.

and as far as the auto trans goes it is a linkage issue anyways and with the right kit say from roger brown you will do just fine.

oh yeah the body lift gave me lots of room under the hood and down the tunnel until I did the drive train lift 2 inch roger brown drivetrain lift. it also allowed me to clear my tires with out cutting but with the rears up front the up travel will increase as well so I will probably have to cut now after all even with just 35 inch tires 15.5 inch wide.

SWAMPER · « **Reply #19 on:** Sep 18, 2004, 07:54:50 PM »

Cool....Sweet deal guys $Beer Chug\'n$ Thanks for all the good info, Im thinking of just cranking the Bars and adding coil spacers on the rear....just enough to fit 33's

robinhood4x4 · « **Reply #20 on:** Sep 20, 2004, 11:10:11 AM »

Quote from: jvministries on Sep 17, 2004, 10:41:58 PM

so let's see the body lift that is 2.5 inches on my rig didn't gain me anything right except a lower center of gravity over say a frame lift of the same height seeing as I just lifted the body higher not the frame and engine and tranny and bumpers and everything else.

No, no. I should have said it only applies to a 2nd gen 4runner (or similar truck) like what lilswamper has. It's normally recommended to only go up to 33s with the IFS. Any bigger and things break more often. The minimal (cheapest) lift to fit 33s is as I explained earlier...there is no need to go with a taller BL. Obviously, a 2-3 inch BL will increase the CG height compared to a 1in BL. Plus, a 3inch is just more painful to install.

Lil swamper, you'll still need to install a 1inch BL to fit to fit 33x12.5s, plus you'll need to get 8in wide rims to properly fit the 12.5 inch wide tires. I've heard of at least 1 person fitting 33x10.5s without a BL and that's what I plan to do for my next set of tires. However, your choices are severely limited as I've only found BFG and MTRs in that size.

Oh yeah, and if you go with ball joint spacers rather than cranking the tbars, you get a little better articulation. You can get them at www.sdori.com

SWAMPER · « **Reply #21 on:** Sep 20, 2004, 12:01:15 PM »

Well right now i have 15x8 rims.

You say that with IFS anything over 33's tends to break....what breacks what can I do to stop or slow it....if I get a lift I dont want to be on 33's I WANT 35'S!!!!!!!!!!

robinhood4x4 · « **Reply #22 on:** Sep 20, 2004, 01:33:10 PM »

CVs break, Idler arm wears fast and/or bends, probably some other stuff I can't think of. To go 35s you need a suspension lift and a BL. Cranking tbars ain't going to do it. That means lots of money which could be better spent on a SAS.

A lot of the hardcore guys say in hindsight they should have never wasted money on an IFS lift, they should have gone SAS. So what a lot of us mediumcore guys do is do the minimal lift for 33s, lock the front and rear and get a crawler. We know that eventually we'd SAS. If you never plan on going SAS, then a IFS lift would be fine for you. But I can guarantee you that in almost any condition a locked truck with 32s will be more capable than an open diff'd truck with 35s.

The biggest factors in breaking CVs are tire size, how much you use the throttle and whether you're locked in the front. If you're easy on your truck then your CVs should last a while. Most people don't break CVs with an open diff, but it does happen. Of course, with an open diff, you're not as capable.

SWAMPER · « **Reply #23 on:** Sep 20, 2004, 02:20:54 PM »

Well I might get a lift for like 200 plus the BL like 100 so thats 300 bucks...everyshop I ask wants atleast 2000 for a SAS

I proly wont get a locker up front I do enough with my set up right now so with that jump Ill be fine

robinhood4x4 · « **Reply #24 on:** Sep 20, 2004, 04:29:35 PM »

If you can get a lift for that cheap then it might be worth it. There are a fair number of people running 35s with IFS. The only reasons I don't run 35s (other than money) are because I don't want to be too tippy and I don't want to break CVs, especially now that I'm locked front and rear.

Check these guys out, they all have IFS, 33s, dual tcases and can run some of the hardest trails in the country short of the hammers. Actually, SteveS and BruceTS are running 35s on slightly lifted 3rd gen 4runners and did run the easier trails of the hammers:

http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=41255
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/hottoy/west/
http://fastq.com/~sschaefer/4runner.html

jvministries · « **Reply #25 on:** Sep 24, 2004, 06:46:43 AM »

you can run 35's on an ifs
you will just have to drive it like you know it will be easy to break
light on the skinny pedal especially when the wheels are turned
the cv joint and front axels are the weak point especially when the tbars are cranked
making them run at a greater angle
but my friend has had 35's on his ifs for years and never broke so it really depends on how you drive
and in what terrain. he isn't easy on his truck but he does drive it with the truth in mind

in a straight line the axels are mostly fine but still aren't up to the torque the 35's will make them go through if say you bounce the front end and come down on it spinning. blam broken joint

it's all about the angle of the joint under torque

I watched a guy stuff the one side of his rig and the other started to spin then caugth traction and boom it broke
it broke on the extended side not the stuffed side

but I have seen a rig running around my area for years with 38.5's on an ifs with no breakage.
I know he wheels it some but nothing heavy or hard core cause he don't want to get his street queen dirty
it does look cool with the top chopped off and 38.5's but you can't wheel it like that and not expect to break.
he's one of those street cruisers with the neons and bling bling rims and stuff and everything under it chrome and four hundred speakers in the bed

SWAMPER · « **Reply #26 on:** Sep 24, 2004, 06:51:37 AM »

Well thanks for the info guys Ill keep that in mind... thanks $Beer Chug\'n$

Mike D · « **Reply #27 on:** Sep 24, 2004, 02:36:01 PM »

Hint of advice never get a locker up front for your ifs, it will break in about a second.

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