Topic: overheatin on the interstate

[BLACKDOG]

whats the easiest way to check about a hg problem?

and the motors been flushed twice in the past 6 months, once when it blew the lower rad hose and then again when it got a new rad, thermo, and hoses.

was the replacement due to over heating?  It may be possible that you've been bandaiding a bigger problem. 

Also, a leakdown test will help determine whats going on with the HG

[hotrod [OP]]

i replaced the rad cause it cracked and i did the thermo cause after the new rad it still would over heat just drivin around town. and that fixed it. . . i hardly ever ran it over 60 for more than a minute or so. but when i would hop on the interstate it would always run hot. . . i guess ill try a leakdown test and see what happens.

[fordh8r]

If the leakdown test is inconclusive (which it may if the leak is small enough)the best method I've used is with a smog machine sniffer in the radiator neck. Any amount of combustion gas will be detected that way even if it is slight. No access to such a method? There is also the block check kits (available over the counter) which use a blue liquid that when exposed to combustion gases it turns yellow. Very easy to do if done correctly.  Hope you figure it out. 

[hotrod [OP]]

hmmm. ill look into that.

[*ROKTOY*]

Do you loose coolant, after you run on the hiway and shut off does your overflow tank over flow?

[hotrod [OP]]

Do you loose coolant, after you run on the hiway and shut off does your overflow tank over flow?

nope.

[*ROKTOY*]

Might just be you temp sensor or gauge, I'd try a mechanical.

[Rocksurfer]

Its not a head gasket problem, and DONT FLUSH YOUR MOTOR EVER!!! not with bilstien or any like that, you will lose compression and shorten the life or your motor. and an engine flush would have nothing to do with this problem.

Who said to flush the motor? And if you do it properly there is no problem in an engine flush, we are talking cooling here not sludge build up. You can and should flush the cooling system it won't hurt a thing and more than likely you may find this is the culprit. FYI I basically flush my motor just before every oil change with some transmission fluid. Funny I have almost 250,000 miles on my motor.

[Plekto]

I would check to see if your water pump is working correctly.  If it's only putting out like 50% of the pressure that it should...(easy to check as well, IME)

[1stgenboy]

I would check to see if your water pump is working correctly.  If it's only putting out like 50% of the pressure that it should...(easy to check as well, IME)

X2   Seen many a motor with the impeller fins on the water pump eroded away due to either never having a cooling system flush/coolant change or insufficient grounding present these symptoms.  If you pull the WP and the impeller is eroded away make sure you have good ground straps, otherwise the coolant is the ground conductor.
1stgenboy

[StillH2O_Toy]

When mine did this it was a bad radiator.  I replaced everything, hoses, clutches, drained/refilled, turned out to be the 2 core radiator (I had even had the 2 core checked and re rodded no luck). Replaced with a 3 core haven't had a problem since.

[blackdiamond]

Everyone seems to have their  so...

If you temporarily switched to 100% water would it possibly eliminate some of the variables?  For every 1% of coolant in the mix your temperature will go up about 1% ignoring the thermostat.  The key is that if there is liquid flowing it should cool significantly better than a mix.

Just tossing out ideas...hopefully he didn't already say he was running 100% water.

[79coyotefrg]

do you have an electric fan on your rad? at high speeds it may block the wind flo. how fast are you driving? check all fluids, maybe your water pump too. the water pump is a rubber wheel and may be rotted, at high rpms it might not be effective. Just a few things to look at

have you never seen a toyota water pump??  true  the water pump fins "could" be rotted,  but  you need to know NOTHING in the 22R water pump is made of rubber,  except the tiny seals

slow down? drink faster? maybe that might work

Its not a head gasket problem, and DONT FLUSH YOUR MOTOR EVER!!! not with bilstien or any like that, you will lose compression and shorten the life or your motor. and an engine flush would have nothing to do with this problem.

what planet are you from??

where is the temp getting read from? check and make sure the wire is not touching the exhuast manifold or that the coil that goes around it itsnt touching anything either

the temp wires are on the passenger side of a toyota truck,


what coil??  if  you mean an aftermarket  temp guage with the coiled wire protector, why would it be anywhere near the exhaust??

[79coyotefrg]

has the engine been bored oversized??  when i bored my 22R to .060 oversize  i had to go to a v6 radiator,  because the stock radiator  would overheat on the interstate  or  hwy hills

[blackdiamond]

My 22RE cruised to MCR7 at 65 mph through Redding, CA at 100 degree ambient temp and was running cool, even without a fan shroud.  I was very pleased with it's performance.  I have Redline Water Wetter that seems to help a bit, but this situation seems like something is simply not working right.

has the engine been bored oversized??  when i bored my 22R to .060 oversize  i had to go to a v6 radiator,  because the stock radiator  would overheat on the interstate  or  hwy hills

I wouldn't expect the standard Toyota design in perfect working order to be this close to not providing enough cooling?  There's a lot a variables with older rigs.

[1stgenboy]

has the engine been bored oversized??  when i bored my 22R to .060 oversize  i had to go to a v6 radiator,  because the stock radiator  would overheat on the interstate  or  hwy hills

radiators come with a rating system.  The stock 2row toyota radiator in the 22r/22re (96 to 116 HP) trucks are rated at 250 HP.  The radiator in the '86 turbo (133HP) is the same only with a nipple for the coolant return from the turbo.  Just boring .060 over should not have overwhelmed the stock radiator were it in good order.

1stgenboy

[79coyotefrg]

radiators come with a rating system.  The stock 2row toyota radiator in the 22r/22re (96 to 116 HP) trucks are rated at 250 HP.  The radiator in the '86 turbo (133HP) is the same only with a nipple for the coolant return from the turbo.  Just boring .060 over should not have overwhelmed the stock radiator were it in good order.

1stgenboy

well Mr.  i can tell you when i rebuilt my engine  everything was new, the radiator was brand new, the water pump,  the fan and fan clutch,  the block was boiled out at the machine shop, as well as the head, and  yes  the thermostat was also a new toyota unit.

now  since your new i'll let you know  some specs, 22R bored .060, head shaved.005, block shaved .005,  cam from LCEngineering .460 lift with 290 duration.  LC 4 long tubes into 1 2 1/4 inch open exhaust
recently dyno revealed 178 hp at 5500
have a listen http://www.mhdfl.com/forum/Glens-truck.mp3

and yes  with the stock NEW radiator  it did fine  crawlin, around town, driving 55 on  2 lanes,   but  when i opened it up on the interstate  or on long hills  it would get HOT,  i installed a used v6 (3 rows for those who dont know) radiator and its never run over 185* since


and  before you flop info out  you might want to know turbo radiators  are 3 row, as are the early diesel radiators

[attitude of gratitude]

I had the same problem. I replace the t-stat with a Toyota one and still did it. Ended up the previous owner or who ever put the T-chain in, got a little to happy with RTV. They had plugged up the pipe comming off the back of the cover.            Also ended up putting a lower temp one in my buddies for a quik fix. He never fiqured out why it was overheating, he just replaces the aftermarket on every year for safe measure.

[hotrod [OP]]

once i get some money im gonna try a hg test. motor is completely stock besides the msd so i wanna get it runnin right stock before i go slap a 3 row on it or somethin to bandaid my problem.

[attitude of gratitude]

Is it eatin coolant?

[jimbo74]

Is it eatin coolant?

he siad it isnt.... but isn't sure

[Rocksurfer]

Geez Jim let the guy answer for himself he's a big boy now.

[hotrod [OP]]

haha. it i havent had to put a drop of water in it since the new stuff. and i checked it 2-3 times a week for almost 2 months.

[79coyotefrg]

get some Prestone Super flush and follow the instructions  lets see if that helps btw  if your coolant is purty and green SAVE IT

[JD]

Since no solution has been found yet, here is the solution to my overheating problem I had a while back.

I had taken the fan blades off my fan clutch and when I remounted them, I accidentally put the fan blades on backwards, so the fan was blowing air AWAY from the radiator instead of into it.

So I would start the motor, pop the hood and confirm that air is blowing in the right direction.

[Rocksurfer]

Since no solution has been found yet, here is the solution to my overheating problem I had a while back.

I had taken the fan blades off my fan clutch and when I remounted them, I accidentally put the fan blades on backwards, so the fan was blowing air AWAY from the radiator instead of into it.

So I would start the motor, pop the hood and confirm that air is blowing in the right direction.

   That's funny!

[Wermz84]

Since no solution has been found yet, here is the solution to my overheating problem I had a while back.

I had taken the fan blades off my fan clutch and when I remounted them, I accidentally put the fan blades on backwards, so the fan was blowing air AWAY from the radiator instead of into it.

So I would start the motor, pop the hood and confirm that air is blowing in the right direction.

I could see doing that in a hurry.    haha

[All_Set]

Kinda what everyone else has suggested..

Rad Cap.  Get it tested.  Even new, you can get a bad one.  Should be 13lb cap.  If it can't keep the correct pressure in the system, you overheat.  (although odd that only happens on long drives...)

Thermostat.  Test it.  Should open up @ 185 or 190.  (which ever one you got)  Aftermarket parts can play hell with diagnosing problems.  (ie, don't assume it *works* just because it's new..) 

Fan Clutch.  Yep.  Although, shouldn't be an issue at speeds.

Radiator.  What you describe sounds like a clogged Rad.  When you replaced the rad, was the water rusty?  Maybe the junk in the block re-clogged the radiator.  Back flush the cooling system, (back flush the Rad seperatly.)  Then back flush it again.  Keep flushing until no more brown water.

Burping the system can be a problem. 

Get a lazor temp gauge.  A) they are sweet, B) confirm if your temp gauge is accurate. 

Turn your heater on when it overheats.  Better to sweat than blow a head gasket! 

[emsvitil]

Since no solution has been found yet, here is the solution to my overheating problem I had a while back.

I had taken the fan blades off my fan clutch and when I remounted them, I accidentally put the fan blades on backwards, so the fan was blowing air AWAY from the radiator instead of into it.

So I would start the motor, pop the hood and confirm that air is blowing in the right direction.

Putting the fan blades on backwards does not reverse the airflow.

It makes the curve of the blade backwards, which pretty much makes the fan useless.   The airflow will still be in the correct direction, but probably about 25% of what it was.

[blackdiamond]

Putting the fan blades on backwards does not reverse the airflow.

It makes the curve of the blade backwards, which pretty much makes the fan useless.   The airflow will still be in the correct direction, but probably about 25% of what it was.

Only if you're driving faster than the air flow at the fan creates.