Steve's 85 Xtra Cab Re-Redone Front Suspension... Sorta

[jonathan82toy]

Don't worry about the pad for a while then. Even after they settle switch the springs left to right and then you will not need the spacer 

[THK Matt]

Don't worry about the pad for a while then. Even after they settle switch the springs left to right and then you will not need the spacer 

Thanks that tip, I'll keep that in mind this December.

[Jud]

Well i think im gonna lengthen the torque rod.

Just take it off completely. all it will do is limit the travel in the front. It will not ride any different on the road. Plus when you do hi steer you have to remove the torque rod mounting bracket frome the frame in order to mount the IFS steering box.

[Jud]

Oh another thing, I have Marlin front springs and I do not use the pring perch spacer. But like jon82toy said it just depends on the truck.

[SteveB]

Thanks for all the advice. I appreciate it. Im going to leave the torque rod off and see how it goes. If i dont like how it handles, im thinking about putting a shock in place with it nearly collapsed at ride height. I have a friend over at Downey Off Road who is going to cut me up a new plate tomorrow, so Im just going to put it on.

Today I got the shackles out, cleaned them and replaced the bushings. It was a pain in the  !!! The first time i put the Downey springs on, i didnt really know what i was doing and i forgot to grease the bushings. So they didnt want to budge when i went to remove them. Then my buddy and welder came over to weld the hangar on for me. Everything is all welded up, tomorrow i just have put the axle back and then it will be gravy train. No shocks yet. Im still waiting to get them.

Here are some pics 




My welder 








We had to use flux core for the welding so there's a little more spackle than with gas, but o well. I think it should hold well.

[SteveB]

So I knew that crossover steering was recommended, but I didn't know it was required. Thanks again TG guys....

This is how close my drag link comes to my pitman arm.


I cant afford crossover steering so Im looking into flipping the J Arm ball (http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=33240.0), but I dont know if that will be enough. Any ideas?

The other problem I ran into is my driveshaft is nowhere near long enough. Again I am dirt poor so any cheap solutions would be helpful.

[SteveB]

Here is a good idea. Has anyone done it? If so how would I do it?

[Matty]

PM duffil i think he has done this a few times.

[88_Pathy]

Make a square shaft.

[Mavericks]

I dont think the J arm set up will work your axle is to far forward.  The J arm can be adjusted but not that much. I would save every penny you have and just buy a cross over kit. You'll be happy you did.

[SteveB]

Yeah crossover is the best, but i need to get it out of the carport 

[jonathan82toy]

I ran my Marlin 4in fronts with push pull for a few months    I did the J-arm flip and use a adjustable drag link, just like in the pic you posted. It took some messaging on the back of the hanger and U-bolts    It worked fine and didn't limit flex too much. It is weak, and rides like    when you compare it to hysteer.     

[SteveB]

Thats the news i wanted to hear! Where do I find myself an adjustable drag link?

[THK Matt]

Procomp and Superlift makes one don't they?

[jonathan82toy]

Foothill offroad sells them too. I would look for a used one...

[SteveB]

I already ordered one at 4Wheel Parts. It will be there tomorrow. Thanks for the info   

[SteveB]

Got the springs on and the steering hooked up. I flipped the ball on the J Arm and it turned out well. Now the steering wheel is off center. I think I can pull it and put it back on so its centered.

Had a problem getting the tires back on though. The lug studs are so messed up they wont even take a nut anymore. To roll the truck into a shop and have them put new studs on is about $700 for both sides. If I take the hub out and give it to them to put new studs in, its $20. Hmmm... wonder what Ill be doing next?   

Also I have to get a longer front driveshaft slip yoke. The stock one wont reach by 2 inches or so with weight on the springs. That will be another $180. No way around that price that I know of...

[SteveB]

O yeah... Im still waiting for my shocks.   

[SteveB]

Got new studs pressed in, and got the tires on. I still need to fix the brake fluid leak, get a longer front driveshaft, put shocks in and rewire the aux lights... for now.






I had a shop put new rotors on the front about a year ago and look what they did to the nut. It looks like someone tightened it with a screwdriver. 




My lady wrenching on our truck   



This is the most I could flex it with whats around me. Maxed out the jack. It could keep going without lifting the other tire. It wouldnt do that with the old springs

[86bobbedtoy]

nice

[SteveB]

So...
As of now:

I replaced the heater blower resistor. I dont know if anyone else has this problem, but if the fan in the cab only works on high, its a $16 fix.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Blower.shtml

I am getting 2" blocks for the rear springs to level the truck. $30 plus U bolts

I am going to get the front driveshaft extended at a drive shaft shop $80. I guess he is just going to extend it. Does anyone know if im going to need the slip yoke longer. I know MC sells an 8" slip yoke but that's $180 vs $80 to just extend it.

[slabcs]

You're going to need to make a square front shaft or get a longer slip for your existing driveshaft.  Getting yours lengthened is going to allow you to bolt it up, but when you droop out your suspension, it's just going to slip all the way out.

[THK Matt]

or you can see if anyone on here is selling a square driveshaft that is made for a single tcase with an mc front suspension....

[SteveB]

Hmmm thats what I thought. Is there a thread on making a square driveshaft?
Would a square driveshaft be ok to use doing 30+ mph?
I have a lot of open desert around where I live so I would like to have the 4x4 engaged and go up to maybe 50mph

[THK Matt]

Minisimp made a tech thread... but yes there are several threads..
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=14915.0

[SteveB]

Ok so I read the square shaft thread and it seams like welding up a square shaft is the same as having it lengthened. Both just add length to it without changing the slip yoke. Am I wrong?

[THK Matt]

you are wrong.

the whole thing is a giant slip yoke.

like 10in of travel I think?

[SteveB]

My bad. I read it through again. I didnt notice the 2 different sized square shafts. Is that what youre going to do HO?

[THK Matt]

My bad. I read it through again. I didnt notice the 2 different sized square shafts. Is that what youre going to do HO?

Lol Sorry if that sounded mean. Yeah its two different sized shafts.
And yes that is what I am going to do.

[SteveB]

So my deadline to get this thing going is New Year's Eve. Some buddies of mine are going to Hodge Road out in Apple Valley that night. My biggest challenge is not the technical side. All I have to do is:

Put blocks on the back to level the truck. (Purchased. I cant touch them until my B Day though... Its a gift from my GF)
Put shocks on. (Purchased. Same situation as blocks)
Adjust the steering.
Front driveshaft. (I think my best bet is to buy one. I need it balanced for the speeds I want to go in 4x4) $180
COMPLETELY bleed the brakes

But the biggest challenge will be

GETTING THE DAMN THING SMOGGED, INSURED AND REGISTERED! It was last registered as of Nov 07 so thats 2 years, plus delinquency. Smog should pass... maybe. I've heard about cheap insurance for recreational vehicles that arent drivin that often. Does anyone know anything about that?