Author Topic: Front Crank Seal (Read 12825 times)

jrock · « **Reply #30 on:** Feb 22, 2008, 05:33:43 PM »

haha, i know.

93tonkatoy · « **Reply #31 on:** Feb 22, 2008, 05:39:00 PM »

This is the difference between the OEM front oil seal and aftermarket replacement.

The OEM is the one in back. see how much thicker it is?

This is the entire oil pump:

5 bolts and it's off. 2 bolts are long, 3 are short (one of which is just a little shorter than the other two) MAKE SURE you note which bolt comes from which hole. The o-ring will probably be stuck to the back of the pump when you remove it. Also, the inner oil pump gear will probably remain on the drive gear on the shaft. When you remove the large gear from the housing, DO NOT pull the gear out at an angle. It will jam. It must be pulled straight out. Check the housing for this kind of wear. This pump was still delivering good pressure, but I used a newer one.

get a 7/8" BOX end wrench and loosen the "nut" on the front of the housing. There is a copper washer that is suppose to be under this cap, but this one was missing. Finish unscrewing it by hand. There is a spring under it, so when the threads are loose, it will pop out. Keep some pressure on it when it releases. Pull out the spring, and use a small hook-shaped tool to pull the piston out. wrap a clean rag around an unsharpened pencil and clean out the bore. Check for gouges (bad ones). clean the oil off of the piston and inspect it also. lube the piston (oil or a light coating of grease will work) and slide it back into the bore. It should move freely with no hang-ups or rough feel. drop the spring back into the piston, and re-install the copper washer and cap (while pressing down, turn).

Hope this gives you a good idea of what to expect.

jrock · « **Reply #32 on:** Feb 22, 2008, 06:57:32 PM »

Terriffic. Thanks. I got th seals but it is brown. I cannot tell the scale of the seals you show but mine is like 1/4-3/8in thick.

93tonkatoy · « **Reply #33 on:** Feb 22, 2008, 07:22:10 PM »

when you pull the old seal out, measure from the flat spot behind it to the front of the housing. (use a pencil or something that you can place your fingernail against to mark. Then compare that to the edge of the seal.

whatever the outcome, if you keep the seal even and flat with the face of the housing, you should be OK. I bottomed mine out is the reason I had problems. but, MAKE SURE that the seal is even all the way around. like this : -|- not -/- or -\-.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #34 on:** Feb 22, 2008, 07:27:13 PM »

if you got the oem crank seal you will be fine. did you also get the oil pump seal? it looks liek a huge o ring

Hammerhead · « **Reply #35 on:** Feb 22, 2008, 08:33:35 PM »

Quote from: jimbo74 on Feb 22, 2008, 05:32:37 PM

i swear... calling them on the phone makes them instantly lose 20 iq points....

That way here too..

I go to our local dealer and just walk behind the counter to point out the parts I want. They're gettin' used to me now...

jrock · « **Reply #36 on:** Feb 22, 2008, 10:06:46 PM »

I got both the crank seal and the pump housing seal. I will get pictures of the leaks tomorrow and see what you all think is leaking. Thanks again.

By the way, whats the easiest way to loosed the crank bolt?

Oh yah, the guy at the dealership was super nice and helpful. I was impressed.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #37 on:** Feb 22, 2008, 10:09:53 PM »

i have always jsut used a breaker bar.. and you've seen me, im a big guy....

some people say they cant do it with power tools....

so... i

i have heard of putting the breaker bar on there and bumping the engine over real quick, nowhere near starting but just enough to get the starter to move at all

emsvitil · « **Reply #38 on:** Feb 22, 2008, 10:11:52 PM »

Lock it up in 5th gear and a breaker bar (or pipe over socket wrench)

jrock · « **Reply #39 on:** Feb 22, 2008, 10:14:37 PM »

5th gear. thanks.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #40 on:** Feb 22, 2008, 10:18:51 PM »

dont you have an automatic?

jrock · « **Reply #41 on:** Feb 22, 2008, 10:20:56 PM »

It has been changed. Good memory.

Whats going on with your truck?

jimbo74 · « **Reply #42 on:** Feb 22, 2008, 10:22:13 PM »

Quote from: jkief86 on Feb 22, 2008, 10:20:56 PM

It has been changed. Good memory.

ah... i remember you mentionoing somewhere on here what is involved with the swap, but never actually seeing that you did it.... sweet....

jrock · « **Reply #43 on:** Feb 22, 2008, 10:25:48 PM »

I didnt post a build because i couldnt take pictures. I do have a few on my phone but I have no clue how to get them off.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #44 on:** Feb 22, 2008, 10:36:38 PM »

text message me the pics, ill post them for you

jrock · « **Reply #45 on:** Feb 22, 2008, 10:40:01 PM »

Doesn't that cost like $.75 per pic? I got about 11.

Tallchevy · « **Reply #46 on:** Feb 22, 2008, 10:44:07 PM »

Quote from: jkief86 on Feb 22, 2008, 10:06:46 PM

By the way, whats the easiest way to loosed the crank bolt?

Quote from: emsvitil on Feb 22, 2008, 10:11:52 PM

Lock it up in 5th gear and a breaker bar (or pipe over socket wrench)

X2
I did this the other day but bumped the starter to break the bolt free & broke my chrome socket

I ended up using an impact socket & bumping the starter to break the bolt free.

The oil pump o-ring can be tricky. Take the skid plate off so you can see the bottom side to make sure the o-ring stays in the groove. If you can't get it to stay, use some grease on the o-ring to help keep it in place. If the o-ring isn't in the groove & you tighten down the oil pump, you will tweak the pump flange, then you will be buying a pump too

jrock · « **Reply #47 on:** Feb 22, 2008, 10:46:24 PM »

good tip.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #48 on:** Feb 22, 2008, 10:49:05 PM »

Quote from: jkief86 on Feb 22, 2008, 10:40:01 PM

Doesn't that cost like $.75 per pic? I got about 11.

oh i dont know... i have free unlimited pictures and text messages... most of the pics i have taken recently are from my cellphone camera... then i just email the picture from my phone to my hotmail email account

jrock · « **Reply #49 on:** Feb 22, 2008, 10:53:13 PM »

well if you don't mind. I would like to get these off my phone.

emsvitil · « **Reply #50 on:** Feb 22, 2008, 11:21:54 PM »

BTW, it's much much easier to do it from underneath than attempting it from the top............

jrock · « **Reply #51 on:** Feb 23, 2008, 01:33:15 PM »

Here are pictures of the front. Oil is everywhere.

jrock · « **Reply #52 on:** Feb 23, 2008, 02:21:35 PM »

Quick question, is the front crank bolt a reverse thread?

twistedtoy92 · « **Reply #53 on:** Feb 23, 2008, 02:30:47 PM »

Quote from: jimbo74 on Feb 22, 2008, 04:45:37 PM

grease... its all multi purpose these days...

i have actually used petroleum jelly without issue... you can also use ky jelly

that is a funny ass post!!!

jrock · « **Reply #54 on:** Feb 23, 2008, 02:44:10 PM »

Quote from: jkief86 on Feb 23, 2008, 02:21:35 PM

Quick question, is the front crank bolt a reverse thread?

Anyone?

twistedtoy92 · « **Reply #55 on:** Feb 23, 2008, 02:47:55 PM »

nope, righty tighty lefty loosey on that there

jrock · « **Reply #56 on:** Feb 23, 2008, 02:50:37 PM »

well shoot, its on there good.
Thanks

twistedtoy92 · « **Reply #57 on:** Feb 23, 2008, 03:07:40 PM »

cant get er off??? put the truck in gear, and the ebrake on and then get a socket and a breaker bar of some sort and just give er a pop or better yet: impact gun........ miracle maker!! LOL

jrock · « **Reply #58 on:** Feb 23, 2008, 03:17:29 PM »

well im not to sure about bumping the starter, but my 1/2in socket and my two legs did nothing. Ebreak on, tranny in 5th and wd40 all over the bolt.

emsvitil · « **Reply #59 on:** Feb 23, 2008, 03:48:54 PM »

Quote from: jkief86 on Feb 23, 2008, 03:17:29 PM

well im not to sure about bumping the starter, but my 1/2in socket and my two legs did nothing. Ebreak on, tranny in 5th and wd40 all over the bolt.

Add 3-4ft of pipe on to the socket wrench...........

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