85 exhaust manifold bolt and nut stripped

Started by BirdDog, June 12, 2004, 03:46:14 PM

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BirdDog

Has anyone  put a hela coil in while the head is still in the truck? it is the far rear nut and the bolt in the rear by the firewall. Or should it all be pulled out.

WHITE_TRASH

Its not that bad to drill it while its still in the truck.  Unless you have a fight angle drill youll need to pull the booster and master I think.  Id also use every drill bit I had in stepping up to the correct size just to make sure that the hole stays straight.
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

BirdDog

Thanks W/T I'm going to try it on my next day off. Any other help would be appreciated.

WHITE_TRASH

you want further advice?  Its gonna cost ya $1.25 per post.  The consultation is a freebie!  lol
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

Bazzi

I once dit that exact same thing.  just be carefull to keep the drill straight.
and drill deep enough

afterwards I had worryes about the (metal falling off the drill) (dont know the english word)  :hammer:   please tell me :-\
it should be better to try and clean that out of the engine.  But I just started the engine up and dit not seem to have any trouble.
4runner body on a hilux frame = Hi-Runner.
2,4 dti duals 2,28 x 2,28 to 8" 5.71 with arb´s  and 39,5" trxus
gathering parts for my goal which is
350 Chevy 700r4 auto to 2.28 x 4.70  and 4.88 9,5" cruisers diffs,diamondaxles and cable lockers, 44" richard cepecs

WHITE_TRASH

Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

Bazzi

shavings huh nice one,
those tech words aren´t tought in school
4runner body on a hilux frame = Hi-Runner.
2,4 dti duals 2,28 x 2,28 to 8" 5.71 with arb´s  and 39,5" trxus
gathering parts for my goal which is
350 Chevy 700r4 auto to 2.28 x 4.70  and 4.88 9,5" cruisers diffs,diamondaxles and cable lockers, 44" richard cepecs

Prismo

#7
I used a right angle drill, was not hard to do. Tear peices off of a rag & stuff the pieces in the exhaust ports while you drill & tap. Stuff the rag far enough in so the drill won't catch it (it makes a cool twirly rag if you don't). Remember to take the rag peices out before bolting the exhaust on (they do look kind of cool at night when blown flaming out of the exhaust pipe) :smack:
Here is a link from PBB that may help you
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237057
Retired Great White Turtle Hunter
Originally posted by fortysixandtwo – sheesh, you should see the transvestites i sell ammo to sometimes

brainlessfool

yup, it's no big deal . just keep it str8.   not for this job butt if your ever consered about the stuff falling off the bit try loading the drill fluts with grease. it will trap all the "stuff" off the drill and hold it. just clean it alot.   


  Hey WT, your you sure about shavings?? I thought thats what I had in the bank.  :psss: :dunno:
A good day working, that's just sick :reg:


Marlin

Have you tried installing a looonger stud? If your truck has the factory stud installed, there may still be good treads left in the head.
I have used exhaust studs from a late 80' Cressida six cylinder, they are about 1/2" longer and may be enought to make it last untill you have a reason to pull the head.
To install the longer stud, remember to double nut them so you dont' mess up the threads.
The studs are 10x1.25mm fine thread.

Marlin
1980 Toyota - 1997 3RZ-FE 2.7l Engine, Turbo R151F 4.31:1, Triple Turbo Marlin Crawler Billet (2.28x4.70x4.70) = 1,148:1 Crawl Ratio, Marlin Crawler Twin Stick and Short Throw Shift Kits, 30mm H/D Output Shaft, High Angle Drive Lines, 5.29:1, ARBs, High Pinion Front, 25mm HD Billet High Steer Kit, 6 Pin Locking Hub Bodies, 86+ Wide Rear End, V6 3rd member, Chromolly Axles all around, 37" IROKs with Beadlocks, York onboard air - Rollbar air tank, Premier Power Welder, Marlin Crawler 4" USA-made Leaf Springs, Bilstein Shocks, et cetera....

BirdDog

no I havent tried anything yet but both the very rear stund is stripped and the very rear bolt hole. I am going to be in fresno on tuesday I may stop by and see if you have anything that could help.

W/T at those rates I would think you could finally move out of that Trailer Park...

WHITE_TRASH

LOL I was wondering if youd catch that. :greengrin: 
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

BirdDog

Yah I caught it . Just working alot of hours so not much time at the end of the day and kinda slow. :sleeping: :sleeping:

84runner

My only suggestion would be to use something besides hela coil , there not the best . The have pretty much the same thing out called Time serts I think. It's pretty much a little steal pipe threaded inside and out. Works the same way but alot stronger. I believe Marlin uses them on his heads. But they may be called something different
RUBICON TESTED BIG BALLS APPROVED

BirdDog

Thanks 84 I will see Marlin Tomorrow and ask him if he has any.

hawaii500_1999

yes timserts rock!  i don't use helicoils anymore. 

the longer stub marlin mention i've done too, except i went to a hardwre store and bought a long bolt that was threaded all the way up to the head and hack sawed the head off and wala!  new longer length stud.
1985 4runner on 35 boggers.  22re, W56 tranny, daul cases with 4:1 in the back case, ford f150 fronts with 63" chevys in the back, cross over steering, full width chevy axles with detroit back and ARB front,

Marlin

Time serts are a much better repair and will not unwind like a heil-coil.
However, time serts will not work for everthing.

For instance, because a time sert requires a recessed counterbore due to the collar at the top of the insert, it cannot be used for the 22R cam caps because of the alignment dowells.
Also, the top oil pump bolt located at 12 o'clock would result in a pressure leak due to the overbore of the time sert insert.

Due in part to their self locking design, time serts are a permanent repair for the exhaust threads, and i install a complete set on my rebuild heads.

Marlin
1980 Toyota - 1997 3RZ-FE 2.7l Engine, Turbo R151F 4.31:1, Triple Turbo Marlin Crawler Billet (2.28x4.70x4.70) = 1,148:1 Crawl Ratio, Marlin Crawler Twin Stick and Short Throw Shift Kits, 30mm H/D Output Shaft, High Angle Drive Lines, 5.29:1, ARBs, High Pinion Front, 25mm HD Billet High Steer Kit, 6 Pin Locking Hub Bodies, 86+ Wide Rear End, V6 3rd member, Chromolly Axles all around, 37" IROKs with Beadlocks, York onboard air - Rollbar air tank, Premier Power Welder, Marlin Crawler 4" USA-made Leaf Springs, Bilstein Shocks, et cetera....

Prismo

I never knew about the Timeserts. I have always used the Helcoils. Learned something new again today. Thanks guys. Marlin, do you know the kit number for the exhaust studs?
Retired Great White Turtle Hunter
Originally posted by fortysixandtwo – sheesh, you should see the transvestites i sell ammo to sometimes

84runner

Quote from: Marlin on June 16, 2004, 10:52:08 PM


Due in part to their self locking design, time serts are a permanent repair for the exhaust threads, and i install a complete set on my rebuild heads.

Marlin

I know this cause I have a Malin head and even has the Marlin Logo on it  :thumbs:
RUBICON TESTED BIG BALLS APPROVED

BirdDog

Hey Marlin Thanks again for the help on Wednesday. So far I just had to install 3 of the larger studs and it has held up till now. Hopefully I wont need to do the Time Serts. Either way I will see you on Tuesday.
I forgot the name of the co. you said that you bought your U.S. made floor jack from if you can post it here I want to look up their web site.

John...