Help me out

[scottie]

So i am new to the Jeep scene and dont know much about them. I bought a 89' XJ with a five inch Rustys lift and 33' Toyo M/Ts, i love it so far! The other day i ran into a problem with it though, i was driving it around normally and it just died. oh and its an automatic if that helps, anyways it just died and wouldnt start since then i put a new cap and rotor on and it has spark and fuel anybody know what the peoblem could be, or things to look for? anything would help thanks guys

[scottie]

Anybody?

[skipnrocks]

Sorry no clue here....   

[Blingn]

tps

[chevyLUVtoyota]

is it the 4.0? EFI?  look at ground wire to the motor...and look at the gas pump PSI...if its EFI you have to have good PSI or it will not run ya...pull the gas line off and it will have gas...but needs good PSI...and look at the lock out for the tranny...if its broken or anything it will not start...try turning the key and playing with the shifter.....

[Blingn]

SYMPTOM DESCRIPTION:

Engine cranks OK, but does not start immediately. Will eventually start and run, but may die shortly after.



SYSTEM OR COMPONENT TO CHECK    ACTION  
COMPUTER INPUTS/OUTPUTS  CHECK:  

COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR (CTS): Using a "Scan" tool compare coolant temperature
with ambient temperature on a cold engine.
If coolant temperature reading is 5 degrees
more than or less than ambient air temperature
on a cold engine, check for high resistance in
coolant sensor circuit or sensor itself.
Compare resistance value to the chart in
COMPONENT TESTS under TESTING PROCEDURES.


THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS): If a sticking throttle shaft or binding linkage
causes a high TPS voltage (open throttle
indication), the ECU will not control idle.
Monitoring TPS voltage, a "Scan" tool and/or
voltmeter should read less than 1.25 volts
with throttle closed.


IDLE SPEED STEPPER MOTOR/IDLE SPEED ACTUATOR MOTOR/SOLE-VAC THROTTLE POSITIONER:
Refer to TESTING PROCEDURES/DIAGNOSTIC
CHARTS/COMPONENT TESTING.


No crank signal.
FUEL  NOTE:  

Fuel pump relay operation: Go to COMPONENT TESTS/RELAY TEST to
check the operation of the fuel pump
relay.


CHECK:


FUEL PRESSURE
WATER CONTAMINATED FUEL
FAULTY IN-TANK FUEL PUMP CHECK VALVE: This could allow the fuel in the lines to drain
back to the tank after the engine is stopped.
To check for this condition:


Ignition "OFF."
Disconnect fuel line at the filter.
Remove the tank filler cap.
Connect a radiator test pump to the fuel line and apply 103 kPa (15 psi) pressure. If the pressure will hold for 60 seconds, the check valve is OK.
IGNITION  CHECK:  

Proper ignition voltage output with appropriate spark tester.
Spark plugs, wet plugs, cracks, wear, improper gap, burned electrodes or
heavy deposits.


Bare and shorted wires.
Moisture in distributor cap.
Worn distributor shaft.
Pickup coil connections.
NOTE:  If engine starts, then immediately stalls,
Test pickup coil.
EMISSIONS  CHECK:  ^ EGR SYSTEM: Valve operation.
NOTE: Refer to EMISSION CONTROLS for testing procedures.  

[Blingn]

any codes?

[chevyLUVtoyota]

o one more thing...this will fix it......get a toyota....HAHA just playin

[scottie]

Thanks a lot guys, it is At a friends of my familys shop right now, he is not sure what the problem is yet, originally he thought it CPS but then he came to the conclusion that it was the computer, but once it was in it still wasnt starting....I will tell him the things to check..And then i can only hope its ready for Wheelin tomorrow! ill keep you guys posted and let you know what the problem is!

[scottie]

Oh and yes it is a 4.0 EFI.

[scottie]

Still no pulse to injectors but i have fuel and spark but something is stopping fuel from going out injectors? BRand new CPS and its not the ECM becuase there is a new ECM to? anyone have any ideas??/

anything helps

[scottie]

Why is there no pulse to the injectors?

[Blingn]

Some 1989 vehicles equipped with the 4.0L engine and automatic transmission may experience an engine no-start, hard restart, or an engine die-out. This condition may be caused by low signal strength from the crank position sensor due to a larger than desired distance to the flywheel sensing ring.

[Blingn]

im looking at the wiring diagram right now to see if the ckp sensor goes straight to the pcm which i think it does or straight to the fuel inj

[Blingn]

also you say no pulse are you refering to no electrical pulse or fuel spray?

[Blingn]

This sensor is located on the bellhousing of the transmission, and is used to send voltage signals, relating to engine speed and piston position, to the ECU. The ECU converts the signals, rate of change of crankshaft angle and crankshaft angle, into engine RPM and piston position respectively. The sensor detects top dead center (TDC), bottom dead center (BDC), and engine speed (RPM) by counting the flywheel teeth as they pass under it.

The flywheel has a large drive plate with three large trigger notches (each 120 degrees apart), and twenty small teeth in between each trigger notch. Each large trigger notch is located 12 teeth away from TDC of its respective piston.

The sensor has a magnetic core inside it that creates a voltage output when a conductor passes through the magnetic flux that it emits. When a small tooth and notch passes under the magnetic core in the sensor, they move through the lines of magnetic flux emitted by the sensor. As these teeth approach the lines of magnetic flux, they cause the magnetic field to concentrate or intensify, and as the teeth pass through the magnetic field, the magnetic field collapses. This concentration and collapsing of the magnetic field causes voltage spikes in the sensors' pick-up winding. The ECU sees every one of these voltage spikes and counts them as they pass the sensor.

When a large notch passes under the sensor, there is a longer delay than usual. When the ECU sees this longer delay, it knows that TDC is only 12 teeth away. Through the use of the Engine Speed Sensor (CPS) and other sensor inputs, the ECU controls the ignition and injector timing.

[Blingn]

If long cranking periods are experienced trying to restart a hot engine after a brief shut down, the fuel system pressure may be bleeding off past the fuel pressure regulator, or past the fuel pump outlet check valve.


Connect a 0-689 kPa (0-100 psi) pressure gauge to the the fuel pressure test port (schrader valve) on the fuel rail.
START the engine and allow it to idle, then note the fuel pressure. If the pressure is within specification, proceed to step 3. If the pressure is above or below specification, proceed to FUEL SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS for further testing.
STOP the engine, noting the gauge reading. Allow the engine to sit, with key OFF for 30 minutes, then recheck the fuel pressure gauge. A pressure drop of 0-138 kPa (20 psi) from the specified operating pressure is normal, and no further fuel pump testing is necessary. If the fuel pressure drop is greater than that specified, proceed to step 4.
START the engine and allow it to idle. Simultaneously pinch the fuel return hose, and STOP the engine. Note the fuel pressure reading. Allow the engine to sit for 30 minutes, with the fuel return line pinched, and recheck the pressure reading. If the pressure has dropped 0-138 kPa (20 psi) or less, replace the fuel pressure regulator. If the pressure drop still exceeds the specified amount, the fuel pump check valve is leaking, and the pump will need to be replaced.

[Blingn]

MPI Fuel System Pressure Test

The MPI fuel system employs a vacuum assisted pressure regulator. Fuel pressure should be approximately 55-69 kPa (8-10 psi) lower with the vacuum line attached to the regulator than with the vacuum line disconnected. System fuel should be 214 kPa (31 psi) with the vacuum line connected to the regulator and 269 kpi (39 psi) with the vacuum line disconnected.

[Blingn]

Connect a 0-414 kPa (0-60 psi) fuel pressure gauge to test port pressure fitting on fuel rail.
Remove vacuum hose from pressure regulator.
Start the vehicle.
Note gauge reading. With vacuum line disconnected, fuel pressure should be approximately 269 kPa (39 psi)
Connect vacuum line to pressure regulator. Note gauge reading. Fuel pressure should be approximately 214 kPa (31 psi) .
If fuel pressure is not approximately 55-69 kPa (8-1O psi) higher with vacuum line removed from regulator, inspect pressure regulator vacuum line for leaks, kinks or blockage.
CAUTION : Fuel pressure will rise to 95 psi when the fuel return line is pinched shut, shut engine down immediately after pinching off fuel return line.



If fuel pressure is below, momentarily pinch shut the hose section of the fuel return line. If fuel pressure remains below specifications, inspect the fuel supply line, fuel filter, and fuel rail inlet for blockage. If fuel presssure rises replace fuel pressure regulator.
If fuel pressure is above specifications, inspect the fuel return line for kinks and blockage.

[Blingn]

NOTE: Make sure injectors have been cleaned with an approved cleaner prior to testing. The injector balance test is done to verify a balanced distribution of fuel to all cylinders.


Start by hooking up a fuel presure gauge at the schrader valve or inline before the fuel pressure regulator (refer to gauge manufacturer instructions).
Pressurize the fuel rail by turning ignition to the ON position, and energizing the fuel pump. Fuel pressure should rise to maximum working pressure. Refer to SPECIFICATIONS .
Remove injector harness connector and connect an injector pulse tester.
Pulse one injector at a time. Allow pressure to rise and stabilize in between each injector tested. NOTE: The time each injector is pulsed is very important. Each injector should be pulsed at the same time interval (example 1 ms each).
The rate of drop should be even across all the injectors. All pressure drops should be within 3% of each other, if not replace the injector.
If there is no pressure drop when the injector is pulsed, verify there is a good connection between the injector and pulse tester. If connection is good, a check of the injector circuit is required.
First, check the resistance of the injector, if resistance is OK verify there is power to injector by reconnecting the injector harness connector and START engine.
Use a "NOID" light to check for pulses (light off and on). If it does not light this is an indication of a problem in the injector to ECU circuit. Refer to COMPUTERIZED ENGINE CONTROLS for further testing. If light pulses, recheck pressure drop to verify malfunction.
NOTE: It may not be possible to connect a noid light to the harness while connected to the injector. If this is the case disconnect the harness and connect the noid light to the harness and check pulses.

[Blingn]

Disconnect the injector wire connector from the fuel injector.
Place an ohmmeter on the fuel injector terminals. The resistance reading should be 16 ohms plus or minus 12 ohms at 20°C (68°F).
If there is infinite resistance, or the resistance reading is outside the listed specification, the injector is defective, and must be replaced.

[Blingn]

FIRST RELEASE YOUR FUEL PRESSURE!!!!!!!

Disconnect the fuel supply line from the inlet side of the fuel rail.
Attach the fuel supply line to the return line.
Plug the fuel return fitting at the fuel rail, or connect to tester/cleaner depending on configuration.
Connect the fuel supply hose from the tester/cleaner to the fuel supply manifold.
Turn the tester/cleaner ON. (Tester/cleaner should run 10 minutes.)
START the engine and check the fuel lines for leakage. If there is any sign of leakage, turn the vehicle and the tester/cleaner OFF and repair the location where fuel is leaking. Then return to Step 6.
When the engine speed has stabilized, set the idle speed at 2000 rpm. Run the remainder of the 10 minute cycle to eliminate all the air in the fuel supply hose and fuel rail.
Turn power switch OFF and disconnect power lines.
Disconnect cleaner supply hose from the fuel supply manifold.
Connect vehicle fuel lines. START engine and check for leaks. Lubricate O-rings prior to installation and ensure fuel lines are securely connected.

[Blingn]

I think i have it all covered, no fuel and no electric to inj.  I would see if you could get codes.  That would help alot

[skipnrocks]

Good crap blingin did you have to take a nap inbetween posts?



LOL JK man  hope all that helps!

[scottie]

Thanks a lot man i will take all this info to my mechanic and we can check it...i Appreciate the help

[scottie]

Could it be the ignition control module?

[scottie]

Wow turns out the fuel pump was copming on but not pushing hardly any PSI so now it has a new fuel pump and CPS so im back in business thanks guys for all the help!

[skipnrocks]

Cool nice work!! good it was something simple!!!

[scottie]

yeah no kidding haha thats all that matters

[Not A Toy]

 
How do the 33's work for ya? are they a 33 12.50? I was just wondering because Alot of people say they will rub, and I wanna run 33's when I need new tires. I have some cooper discoverers 31-10.50's now and have zero trouble... thanks