Front solid axle made wider

[Jimmyg]

  I am going to widen my front axle an inch and a half on both sides by removing the steering knuckle ends from the axle tube and adding in machined extensions between the axle tube and the inner ball of the steering knuckle (the ball that holds the steering bearings and races) At the same time I intend on turning the knuckles 6 degrees to improve pinion angle while maintaining steering geometry.  As well I will need to order inner axle shafts each an inch and a half longer for each side and will of course put in new and improved birfields.
Any imput, ideas, suggestions? Will this work? Who makes the strongest axleshafts, which beefed birfs are the best, and why? Will I need to grind any meat out of the birfs home for them to spin free? If the ends of the axle shafts are not tapered like the stock shafts will the birfields make contact with the shaft?
Can you me?

[WHITE_TRASH]

Yeh itll work but whay not get a spacer from sky and do the same thing but be able to keep the stock inner shafts for ease of avalability?  There was a thread on pirates about widening the axle without buying the spacer to boot!  Im gonna do that once I have a rolling chassis, too busy to do it right now.
WT

I tried to post some pics of the setup mut they were WAY too  big.  Go to www.pirate4x4/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=12  about 2/3rds the way down the page youll see what I mean.

[Jimmyg]

I can't get yer link to work Going to the spacers is definitely quicker, easier, and probably cheaper up front but I'm concerned about bearing wear and the added leverage at the join between axle tube and the steering knuckle ends

[lowgeared]

This is my truck with no spacers and a ifs rear.  It tracks down the road just fine as is.

[WHITE_TRASH]

Well Ill be a sumbiyach, I sure thought it worked yesterday.  Well anyway the thread is on www.pirate4x4.com/forum  its in the toyota section the header is using ifs hubs with no spacer.  I think its on page 2 now.

[Jimmyg]

  With the FJ80 vented rotors I'm adding to a set of 1989 + EFI Calipers I have to add the spacers in order for the wheel to clear the calipers Thanks for the input! I was thinking, (First problem I guess) that I would need to push out 1.5" for tracking above which without the Vented Rotor swap I would have had to do. I now have to add spacers to clear the newer calipers which in turn solves the tracking. Boy does that save me some denaro

[Jimmyg]

Tanks Trashy for the link As I was reading the thread I then I and it all became clear LOL Now who provides the best spacers? Some are Aluminum like my MT/Alcoa Classics and others are Steel whats the verdict here?

[WHITE_TRASH]

They all are pretty good.  The key to any bolt on spacer is to use locktite on the inner studs and check the torque about everyother oil change or so.  Marlin sells quality spacers. 

[Jimmyg]

Info on Marlin's? Are they steal or Aluminum? Do they sandwich between rotor and stud carrier or stud carrier and the wheel? Do you think Aluminum would be best for revolving mass issues, (Power to turn and brake, Ever once counts with a fourbanger ) but would be best placed outward against my aluminum wheels (I've been told Aluminum or any two differrent metals when placed against each other corrode) Or should I use steel and place them between rotor and Stud carrier?Anyone

[WHITE_TRASH]

Damn you are researching this very thouroughly arent you.  Good to find someone that isnt all monkey see monkey do about things!  Im pretty sure that putting an aluminum spacer against an aluminum wheel would make for a corrosive enviornment, but you could always put nickle neversieze between them to stop that from happening.  Marlins spacers are made from aluminum.  They are installed between the wheel and the hub.

[Jimmyg]

  So then it is almost decided Marlins aluminum wheel spacer's at 1.5" too get past the Caliper and set the front tracking to match my new 58 inch wide rear
Iv'e heard tell there is a danger of these spacers coming undun wable wable wheel passing truck any imput

[WHITE_TRASH]

Thats why you need to use red loctite on the inner set of lugnuts.  That will keep them from coming off on the highway.  Id still check torque at every tire rotation.

[Jimmyg]

So I was at my favorite wreckers yard snoopin an measurin and guess what I found I found an FJ80 front axle complete for $... (well, very cheap) So cheap I don't wanna say. Any how it is 2.5 inches wider that its punnier cousin and has a 9.25 differential. This with the .25" spacers I require to get my Alcoas to clear the new calipers gives me the 3 inches in width and will obviously withstand the newly aquired 3.4 Yota power.                                                                     I know the front axle is to be wider than the rear for tracking. (The narrower rear cannot stay in the same ruts, its forced to at least put one wheel in a different track) Its also better to have front wider for narrower trails you can see if its gunna fit and the narrower rear follows better.                                                           If I go with the FJ80 I'll want to purchase a High pinion ARB for it (My rig has ARB's front and rear, Wouldn't want to not have front ARB) What would you do?

[Salvo]

If my memory serves me right Jimmyg... Havent you already had one of your wheels pass you  

[Jimmyg]

  Wheel went flyin by! what do now batman 

[WHITE_TRASH]

please explain.  This could be interesting.

[Salvo]

Hmmm lets just say their is a shop in this area that isent sure what a tourgue wrench is 

[Bob Garrett]

So I was at my favorite wreckers yard snoopin an measurin and guess what I found I found an FJ80 front axle complete for $... (well, very cheap) So cheap I don't wanna say. Any how it is 2.5 inches wider that its punnier cousin and has a 9.25 differential.


Aren't 80 series front diffs  8"? 

[Jimmyg]

Sorry I meant FJ 60 The wagon has the wider (2.5") front axle http://www.off-road.com/tlc/body_styles/index.html