Author Topic: Dana 60 install '97 4Runner (Read 15833 times)

skipnrocks · « **Reply #60 on:** Nov 07, 2007, 02:42:14 PM »

My understanding is that you have to weld acording to your thinnist piece, yea your welding to half in. tube but how thick is the truss..... Another trick I have learned is to dirrect your heat more towards the thicker piece, that way your thicker piece gets more heat and more penetration (which it can handle) and the thinner piece still gets penetrated... Oh crap theirs got to be a better word for that? Oh well get your minds out of the gutter... LOL

Goose · « **Reply #61 on:** Nov 07, 2007, 05:11:14 PM »

That sounds about right. ^
I did my creeper gussets, top gusset and undershave job on my front axle the same way and still ended up with i think a hair of warpage.

Its kinda... ghetto, but you can always burn a couple real hot beads on the underside to counteract the warpage on top.
It wont get it perfect, but it can bring it back into shape if its really bad.

cougarfreak · « **Reply #62 on:** Nov 07, 2007, 06:14:02 PM »

hahahaha I'm glad to see I'm not the only gutterhead

The weld toward the thickest piece makes sense, and it is what I did. The thing that is making it even more frustrating for me is that all of the advice everyone is giving (BTW Thank you very much!!!

) are methods I used to put the truss on

. I did think about putting welds on the bottom of the tube to mirror the ones I put on top... but I didn't. That probably would have helped. I also thought about skipping having the weld shop straighten it and just weld a small low profile truss under the tube... but i didn't. I was worried I'd make the situation worse, or a more complicated straighten if I did really make it worse.

skipnrocks · « **Reply #63 on:** Nov 07, 2007, 07:11:22 PM »

LOL good times huh!!! Just out of curiosity what thickness is the truss steel?

cougarfreak · « **Reply #64 on:** Nov 07, 2007, 07:18:56 PM »

0.120 wall 2"x4"

skipnrocks · « **Reply #65 on:** Nov 07, 2007, 07:30:29 PM »

LOL one more thing you could try if you havent already, sounds like you have already tried everything but you can take a grinder and bevel the edge of the truss piece and turn your amperage down a bit, you should get plenty of penitration but without needing as much heat..... Anyways good luck, Im goin to keep an eye you do some good work and have some perty lookin welds... $Beer Chug\'n$

cougarfreak · « **Reply #66 on:** Nov 07, 2007, 08:54:15 PM »

$Beer Chug\'n$ I thank you kindly!!!!! $Beer Chug\'n$

cougarfreak · « **Reply #67 on:** Nov 08, 2007, 06:04:52 PM »

Update:
Cliff said that my welds leaked hot dip fluid indicating, even though I preheated before welding, my 110v Weldmark 135+ just didn't have enough ass to start hot enough didn't penetrate well until further down the weld. He drilled an 1/8th" hole in the truss to help drain fluid that may collect in it during water crossings. My whole reasoning for solid welding it just went out the window. I was trying to avoid rusting out the inside of the truss. Ah, well. Live and learn!!!!

He also told me the axle was warped before I pulled it outta the junk yard, though my welding on the top didn't help the situation. Spun races in the diff's journal showed signs of massive wear. He was able to straighten the axles and clean up the wear, so I'm good to go, $580 later. The rear d60 was bout 1/2" outta whack. I'll pick them up tomorrow and ask him how I can advise my fellow homefabbers on welding trusses without warping the axle and post that advise here.

skipnrocks · « **Reply #68 on:** Nov 08, 2007, 06:24:05 PM »

Im sorry I thought you were talking about warping the truss not the axle.... No disrespect to you or your friend but I highly doubt that you warped your axle, like your buddy said it must have been bent prior to your posession but you wouldnt have warped it with your 135... The truss on the other hand I could see.. Good to hear you got your axle straightened out now rather then later...

cougarfreak · « **Reply #69 on:** Nov 08, 2007, 08:06:34 PM »

Aw, Man!!!

now I'll never know for sure if it was warped from welding or if it was just bent from the getgo...

wwaaaaaaaaaaaaaaawwwaaaaaa

skipnrocks · « **Reply #70 on:** Nov 08, 2007, 08:10:44 PM »

Trust me man if your taking about the axle it was warped from the get go!!! Not only would it take alot of heat to warp half in material but you would have to get it so hot that it comprimised the integrity of the tube all the way around, if you dont believe me get a piece of straight pipe from the junk recyclers and try and distort it...

cougarfreak · « **Reply #71 on:** Nov 08, 2007, 08:22:34 PM »

good to know!!! Thanks for the vote of confidence. hehe Oh and Cliff is not my friend, he's the welder at Lincoln Welding and machining in Sac.

skipnrocks · « **Reply #72 on:** Nov 08, 2007, 08:41:26 PM »

Quote from: cougarfreak on Nov 08, 2007, 06:04:52 PM

Update:
He drilled an 1/8th" hole in the truss to help drain fluid that may collect in it during water crossings. My whole reasoning for solid welding it just went out the window. I was trying to avoid rusting out the inside of the truss. Ah, well. Live and learn!!!!

You could weld up the hole or tap it and put in a plug, but if your confident that your welded up solid all around the truss, I would just weld the hole and forget it..unless you live in a real humid state maybe I would do the plug...

Goose · « **Reply #73 on:** Nov 12, 2007, 07:59:01 PM »

Sorry to hear that about the warpage.
It makes me wonder whether my truss on my front axle is watertight now...
I know it didnt miss any spots... i just hope my miller 251 got enough penetration, cause i had the heat down a bit...

Fearofrunner · « **Reply #74 on:** Dec 18, 2007, 10:49:18 AM »

Quote from: Goose on Nov 12, 2007, 07:59:01 PM

Sorry to hear that about the warpage.
It makes me wonder whether my truss on my front axle is watertight now...
I know it didnt miss any spots... i just hope my miller 251 got enough penetration, cause i had the heat down a bit...

Ya dude i'm wondering the same thing now about if my welds are air tight on that front truss or if they're just small enough to let water in to set and rust it to pieces.... YIKES!

cougarfreak · « **Reply #75 on:** Jan 12, 2008, 07:04:04 AM »

Update: 1/12/08 (yes it's taken me this long) I finally took some time to try and get the rig running on the road again and did some work this week. I picked up the axles a while ago, and the races had spun at some point in the axle's life, and the jounals had to be machined, so I had Lincoln clean that up when they straightened the axle. $600 later, I have straight axles that are ready for life under my 4Runner (Sheeeeeesh). I took them to FAO in Vacaville to have the ring and pinion set up put back together in the diffs and checked for proper backlash and preload. With the machining Lincoln did, I had to have the carrier set up again in the 60. I now have the axles ready for paint and install. I'm changing out the races in the hubs today, and hope to have them installed under the truck tomorrow. Brake lines are next on the to-do list.

I asked Cliff what a home fabber can do to prevent warpage, and he said that "it's gonna warp no matter what you do". In a jig, it still warps, it just binds up around whatever you are using to jig it with (gettin' jiggey whit it... sorry cranial flatulation). Then you have to figure out how to warp it back to get the jig out... Weld it, then get it straightened... $100 USUALLY. Now I don't know if this is just him trying to keep business, or he's speaking truth... but it makes sense.

skipnrocks · « **Reply #76 on:** Jan 12, 2008, 07:56:46 AM »

Are we still talking about warping the axle tubes? If so I think old cliffie is tryin to keep some buisness.

cougarfreak · « **Reply #77 on:** Jan 12, 2008, 10:29:13 AM »

yup, I'm taking the daddy with 5 acres and a laundry list of other projects and chores taking up my build time, so it takes a long time to to a job, and i keep dredging old info back up... Sorry. I have a friend that is a race truck builder/driver, and he shares your sentiments. He didn't seem to think 1/2" off would do much damage, if any.

cougarfreak · « **Reply #78 on:** Jan 14, 2008, 11:41:24 PM »

I went to put in the races in my D60 and 44 hubs Saturday, and the D60 went together flawlessly. The 44, on the other hand, had an issue with the larger bearing's race. I have JML104-911 races that are a perfect fit in the D60, but don't fit in the D44. When I got home I checked all of the bearings and cross referenced them with the ones I ordered. All of the bearings are the same for the D60 and the larger of the D44. The races are all the same for the D60, but the D44 has a step in the hub that stopped the JML104-911 from going in to the race seat. I compared the race number with the one that came out, and found they were one # off. The removed race JML104-910. I calipered the O.D. of the 2 races and found they had a .025 difference. That would stop it from going past the step. I picked up the 910's from Autozone yesterday, and installed them in to the hub. Now paint and install, and brake lines!!!!

Summary:
'76 Ford D60 rear hub races (all Timken): JML104-911 Bearings: Set38 LM104-949

'76 Chevy/ '81 waggy D44 front large hub race (all Timken): JML104-910 inner Bearings: Set38 LM104-949
'76 Chevy/ '81 waggy D44 front Small hub race (all Timken): LM501-310 outter Bearings: Set45 LM501-349

Inner hub D44:

Inner hub closeup showing step (clean spot is where the race should go):

Inner hub race properly installed w/ race JLM104-910 (911 would only go in to the 1st step):

skipnrocks · « **Reply #79 on:** Jan 15, 2008, 05:10:34 AM »

lol it ticks me off when o get the wrong part are cant get it on!!

cougarfreak · « **Reply #80 on:** Jan 15, 2008, 07:51:15 AM »

Dat's whut I'ma sayin!!!!!! We went off of bearings when I ordered the parts, so it was an innocent oops on my parts guy... Shoulda pulled the bearings and races to make sure.

Moral of the story: never assume that just because one part is the same in 2 different applications, its counterparts will be the same as well. Check and double check, then order.

skipnrocks · « **Reply #81 on:** Jan 15, 2008, 07:57:13 AM »

lesson learned huh? You know what happens when you assume right

It means your a pregnant dog!!!

LOL saw that on tv last night!!

cougarfreak · « **Reply #82 on:** Jan 15, 2008, 09:59:23 AM »

It means you're a pregnant dog, and it makes an ass outta you and me (ass-u-me) hahahaha. What were you watchin'

skipnrocks · « **Reply #83 on:** Jan 15, 2008, 10:06:15 AM »

two and a half men... good you got everything together now though!

cougarfreak · « **Reply #84 on:** Jan 15, 2008, 10:36:53 AM »

I rarely get to watch it, but when I do, I'm in stitches the whole 1/2 hr. Good stuff.

Now I'm trying to find some 2 3/8" O.D. 0.120 tubing to sleeve the inside of my outter tube of my front axle so I can get this outter seal from Parts Mike to fit (wheew!!!). Apparently I have some thin wall axle tubes .250 wall and they don't make a seal for that inner diameter. 2 1/8 is what I have, and their next size up fits 2 1/2" and up I.D. SOOOO, I have to silicone a sleeve into the tube to get the smaller one to fit.

skipnrocks · « **Reply #85 on:** Jan 15, 2008, 01:43:24 PM »

LOL yea I like the show, I tivo it but I think I have seen em all now!

Your axle troubes sound like a real pita!

cougarfreak · « **Reply #86 on:** Jan 15, 2008, 02:53:08 PM »

Yup, but when I finish this up, It's gonna be one tough customer!!!

skipnrocks · « **Reply #87 on:** Jan 15, 2008, 06:36:11 PM »

How come they dont make a seal for an oem bpart? You dont have custom tubes do you?

cougarfreak · « **Reply #88 on:** Jan 15, 2008, 07:06:40 PM »

Outer tube (inner C) doesn't have a factory seal. It's usually just open to the elements and the set up relies on the inner seal to keep the gunk outa the punkin. The J**P CJ n TJ D30/44 have an aftermarket seal, but their tubes are different sizes than the waggy tube, and a part of it protrudes into the area the knuckle u-joint is at. Mine has 0.25 wall tubes, where most have 3/8, and the space between the outer and inner C is tight.

skipnrocks · « **Reply #89 on:** Jan 15, 2008, 07:12:47 PM »

Ahh i see your problem, I remember mine is set up the same way, I dont know what my tube size is, I will have to all around and see if I have to go through what you do!

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