Topic: Radiator Question??? PICS INCLUDED!!! UPDATED 27 MAR

[weirdtimes_7]

Ok, i didn't really notice this untill a few days ago....





Is this a messege that i need to replace my radiator???

military_stang

[weirdtimes_7 [OP]]

If you cannot see em, here is the the link:

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/2601000-2601999/2601155_10.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/2601000-2601999/2601155_11.jpg


military_stang

[*ROKTOY*]

I would think so, or at least take it to a radiator shop and have it boiled out and repaired. Probably cheaper to get a new one.

[weirdtimes_7 [OP]]

What is it from though???

military_stang

[SACD_Runner]

Doesn't look too bad. If your that worried and broke, take some JB to it and all will be ok. However if you have the coin performance radiators are cheap for the 3rd gen trucks. any cooling problems?

[weirdtimes_7 [OP]]

Oh no, it's not having any cooling problems, it's not leaking either. I just didn't know if this was a sign that it was going to start acting up or start leaking. I can always put stop leak in it if it does start leaking....

military_stang

[SQUIRREL MONSTER]

stop leak dont stop water from leaking out of holes in the radiator. have you ever replaced the radiator, ( is it still the original stock toyota one?) if not take an overall look at the radiator. if the rows are starting to look clogged, and more spots are starting to show on there... just replace it with a new one and have peace of mind

[weirdtimes_7 [OP]]

It's the original from the show room floor. When i bought this truck, nothing... and i mean NOTHING (beside the oil, filter, air fliter, wiper's... then normal stuff) has been replaced, this truck is damn near 100% stock. I have done more work to this truck than the other two owner's it has had, and i have only owned it since October....

military_stang

[SACD_Runner]

Oh no, it's not having any cooling problems, it's not leaking either. I just didn't know if this was a sign that it was going to start acting up or start leaking. I can always put stop leak in it if it does start leaking....

military_stang

I'd rather keep an egg on me then some stopleak. Like Squirrel said, if it looks all batterd just replace it. Cooling is not something you want to skimp on. replacing a radiator is alot cheaper then replacing a motor. ah the pics don't show too well but it just looks like stress marks, i have no idea where the pink is coming from.

[*ROKTOY*]

X2 on that. What causes that is lack of maintenace, that is why they tell you to service your cooling system and replace you anti freeze every two years.

stop leak dont stop water from leaking out of holes in the radiator. have you ever replaced the radiator, ( is it still the original stock toyota one?) if not take an overall look at the radiator. if the rows are starting to look clogged, and more spots are starting to show on there... just replace it with a new one and have peace of mind

[weirdtimes_7 [OP]]

How much do new radiators cost, and not the cheepy one's???

military_stang

[SACD_Runner]

I've never replaced a 3.0 rad but in my 22re it was 98$ for a new "performance" radiator. getting them at cost helps though. Im guessing somewhere around 150 or so

[SQUIRREL MONSTER]

like sacd said, average of $150 or so... possibly cheaper. when you DO change your radiator, make sure to swap out all the usual stuff like hoses, heater lines, and thermostat so those dont become an issue down the road either. (since you are there already.)

[weirdtimes_7 [OP]]

Does anyone have any sights for performance aluminum rads??

military_stang

[Fearofrunner]

we have bought in the last year a acura integra 91 yota pick up and 84 4runner radiator and these guys are where we got em.  All new and if you get the three row the truck runs nice and cool.  And they're just up in ogden on 26th street

http://www.radiator.com/

[DTB]

a used toyota radiator is better than most of the "new" aftermarket ones. just my two cents

[Big Bob]

Replace the radiator!!! It will be easier now than to have your rig break down on the trail

[SACD_Runner]

One word of the wise, you can cool your rig too much so trip row aluminum wouldnt be such a good idea. Just get a good stock replacement. Toyota knew what they were doing when they built these trucks, though sometimes it doesnt seem like it.

[Fearofrunner]

One word of the wise, you can cool your rig too much so trip row aluminum wouldnt be such a good idea. Just get a good stock replacement. Toyota knew what they were doing when they built these trucks, though sometimes it doesnt seem like it.

I highly doubt you can get the motor too cool, the thermostat is going to controle the flow until it reaches operating temperature and then will regulate the coolent as it comes out of the motor.

[DTB]

I highly doubt you can get the motor too cool,

i was thinking the same thing...i thought cooler was always better

[SACD_Runner]

I highly doubt you can get the motor too cool, the thermostat is going to controle the flow until it reaches operating temperature and then will regulate the coolent as it comes out of the motor.

Thermostats only control overheating, not underheating. The block needs a certain temp to operate at. I'll do some more research, but a few crew cheifs back in my racing days said it's a bad idea. Keeping the induction cold is good. However having cold water running through the block is not.

[SQUIRREL MONSTER]

i agree, too cold a water temp and you are likely to have certain areas of the block and head expand at diffrent rates and what not. just place a stock radiator in there and its as good as new. it made it this far, its gotta be doing something right. add a 180 stat on it and should be good to go.

[BigMike]

I didn't read every post above, but is it a leak that was previously repaired?

[SACD_Runner]

The pics don't do it justice but i looks like someone slaped on a red JB weld looking meterial. Thats the only thing i can come up with, since its pink.

[Fearofrunner]

Thermostats only control overheating, not underheating. The block needs a certain temp to operate at. I'll do some more research, but a few crew cheifs back in my racing days said it's a bad idea. Keeping the induction cold is good. However having cold water running through the block is not.

the thermostat gradually opens to the temperature at which the springs temp is  rated at. just like when you test a thermostat in a pot of boiling water, once it reaches 180 195 or what ever then the valve is completely open.  Therefore the hot water comming out of the block will only flow so fast until it reaches the temp that it fully opens.  Reason I'm arguing is that we have a 91 toyota 3.slow with the three core and it heats up just fine even in the cold ass weather we've been having.  It heats up to normal operating temperature the heater blows super hot air but yet during the summer with temperatures of over 95 degrees you can set in traffic with the air conditioner going and the temp gauge never moves.  It's worth the money IMO...

[weirdtimes_7 [OP]]

I will try and take some more pics today of the pink stuff, i just want to know what was going on.... thank you all for being so informative, and i will be looking into a three row and into stock.

military_stang

[weirdtimes_7 [OP]]

Here are some pics from today....

I never really noticed this, but i think it's been repaired before....





military_stang

[SACD_Runner]

the thermostat gradually opens to the temperature at which the springs temp is  rated at. just like when you test a thermostat in a pot of boiling water, once it reaches 180 195 or what ever then the valve is completely open.  Therefore the hot water comming out of the block will only flow so fast until it reaches the temp that it fully opens.  Reason I'm arguing is that we have a 91 toyota 3.slow with the three core and it heats up just fine even in the cold ass weather we've been having.  It heats up to normal operating temperature the heater blows super hot air but yet during the summer with temperatures of over 95 degrees you can set in traffic with the air conditioner going and the temp gauge never moves.  It's worth the money IMO...

Good Post! I was just stating what i've heard and what i've seen. IMO keeping things stock are the way to go. I always seems when you get to tricky something decides to fail or blow up. thats just me though. We had a discussion in our group. your more then welcome to search and do some research. http://wattora.com/

[Fearofrunner]

Good Post! I was just stating what i've heard and what i've seen. IMO keeping things stock are the way to go. I always seems when you get to tricky something decides to fail or blow up. thats just me though. We had a discussion in our group. your more then welcome to search and do some research. http://wattora.com/

X2 on keeping it original, from now on i try to buy Japanese parts or bite the bullet and buy it from the dealer especially electrical parts.  But thanks for the good info and Military-Stang sorry if we high jacked your post but there is some usefull information here to consider and hopefully it has helped to make your decision.

[rscalmo]

flex-a-lite has awesome radiators that bolt right up with electric fan packages as well. triple row, aluminum LC engineering has 3 row copper radiators. both are NOT cheap. expect to pay 3-4 bills. but its worth it. stock radiators suck.