What wrong with my IDLE!!!!!

Started by max, February 29, 2004, 04:33:04 PM

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max

Ok heres the story,
I have a 89 4runner w/ 3.0L V6.  It is supposed to idle at 800rpm.  It would cycle though staring at 800 rpm go up 1000 sputter and drop back to 800 rpm.  Little putts could be heard from exhaust It runs good.  There was no engine light.  Couldn't find any vacume leaks and I replaced pcv valve.  I adjusted the Trottle Position Sensor and it fixed it.  Couple days ago I cleaned my K&N air filter and the idle problem started, the TPS won't make it stop, it is only going up and down about 50 rpm, but little jolts can be felt at stop lights so I want to fix it, any ideas!!!!!

WHITE_TRASH

Does it only surge at stoplights.  Maybe just in or out of gear?
WT
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

max

It seems to have gotten better, however I have always have noticed If I hit my gas hard the engine sounds slugish, it accelerates faster if I graduly give it gas, are all the old toyota engines this way.  I think the k&n air filter just let to much air in

Josh


Marlin

It still sounds like your truck is going in and out of base idle. Are you sure that the throttle position is properly adjusted?
Does the timing change when the engine speeds up and slows down?
Is there a change when the connector is shorted for the base timing?

MC
1980 Toyota - 1997 3RZ-FE 2.7l Engine, Turbo R151F 4.31:1, Triple Turbo Marlin Crawler Billet (2.28x4.70x4.70) = 1,148:1 Crawl Ratio, Marlin Crawler Twin Stick and Short Throw Shift Kits, 30mm H/D Output Shaft, High Angle Drive Lines, 5.29:1, ARBs, High Pinion Front, 25mm HD Billet High Steer Kit, 6 Pin Locking Hub Bodies, 86+ Wide Rear End, V6 3rd member, Chromolly Axles all around, 37" IROKs with Beadlocks, York onboard air - Rollbar air tank, Premier Power Welder, Marlin Crawler 4" USA-made Leaf Springs, Bilstein Shocks, et cetera....

84runner

When I hear a car that idles like that first thing I think is fuel service. clogged injector of filter.  But you also said you cleanded you K&N. Did you let it fully dry before you installed it?  That oil could be fouling out a plug
RUBICON TESTED BIG BALLS APPROVED

RustyToy

did you check your intake... my truck did the same thing with a intake leak....
I'd like to quit thinking of the present as some minor insignificant preamble to something else~~~~~

gferris5

You know what has caused a number of my bad idles? It sounds silly, but a number of operations have required me to move my throttle cable, and then when i put it back, I re-connect it, but I don't route it correctly, thus providing too much friction-and wreaking havoc on my driveability. As cheap insurance, go ahead and lube up the throttle cable. See what happens...
85' 4Runner- SWAPPED--Dodge Caravan IFS-front and rear, 235R13's on each corner, hubcaps. Toyota Corona drivetrain swap. Locked, left and right side doors, with the windows up.

yotaboy79

sounds like ur tps is shot might need a new one

max

#9
Thanks for all the input.  Throttle cable could be prob, the truck has 214,000 miles.  Now I sound like an ass, When I washed my K&N It said not to heat dry it so I don't care because I am getting new truck soon and just got the hairdryer out and waved at it a little.  I didn't mess the cotton media up but I did put it back on still wet, NOT DRIPPING.  The TPS went bad about 5 months ago, could it be bad again it was genuwine toyota from stealership.  Guess it could be gas filter to.  Thanks every one and Marlin I will check timming.

max

#10
MARLIN RULES!  Thanks man, I had my timming advanced to 15' before from previous idle problems.  Well now my engine is alot queiter, I jumped the E1 and T1 and adjusted timming to STOCK, 10'.  took out the jumper and it went to 8'.  Then I adjusted the screw on the trottle, and adjusted the TPS.  Runs better now, idles close to as good as it ever did, doesn't lose alot of power on hills.  Thanks marlin

Marlin

#11
Glad to hear you got it worked out :_order:

Every now and then we get lucky :beerchug:

MC
1980 Toyota - 1997 3RZ-FE 2.7l Engine, Turbo R151F 4.31:1, Triple Turbo Marlin Crawler Billet (2.28x4.70x4.70) = 1,148:1 Crawl Ratio, Marlin Crawler Twin Stick and Short Throw Shift Kits, 30mm H/D Output Shaft, High Angle Drive Lines, 5.29:1, ARBs, High Pinion Front, 25mm HD Billet High Steer Kit, 6 Pin Locking Hub Bodies, 86+ Wide Rear End, V6 3rd member, Chromolly Axles all around, 37" IROKs with Beadlocks, York onboard air - Rollbar air tank, Premier Power Welder, Marlin Crawler 4" USA-made Leaf Springs, Bilstein Shocks, et cetera....

max

Well I will have my new truck soon so as long as it keeps running I can trade it in 215,000 miles.