Author Topic: House Projects (Read 88818 times)

Shamb · « **Reply #540 on:** Oct 03, 2011, 10:36:23 AM »

jimbo all you need is soapy water to pull wallpaper off.

we replaced all the fosset's in our master bath and spare bath, i'll have to toss up a few pictures...gonna be wiring in two fan's on my patio this weekend.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #541 on:** Nov 03, 2011, 09:29:16 AM »

well, got all the wallpaper off, still haven't gotten around to painting the room yet though... also got a new vanity installed in the hall bathroom and a new granite countertop and faucet.

we had our floors refinished, they look great, it is red oak

jimbo74 · « **Reply #542 on:** Nov 14, 2011, 07:38:31 PM »

sooo...... we are going to be replacing our countertops, i will be making one out of concrete..... i need it durable.... i want like an inch or thinner, but with liek a 2" thick edge on it.....

how do i do it?

blumagoo · « **Reply #543 on:** Nov 15, 2011, 08:41:25 AM »

I did this project a few years back and must say I love my counters.
There is a book you can get from the library that will inspire you, Concrete countertops written by Fu-Cheng.
There was a little too much guidance for me though, He specified some additives to his concrete mix that I couldn't find so I ended up leaving them out. All of the ingredients for the concrete mix that I used I found at Home Depot.
I think 1" is too thin, my smaller pieces are 1.5" and the big piece which is 9' long has the sink cutout and weighs about 250lbs is 2.25" thick. I used rebar and remesh for support and molded them top side down in my garage. I built the mold from melamine and formed the edges with 2x4's that I covered with plastic tape so the wood grain doesn't transfer to the finished piece. Calk all the gaps with silicon and be neat because everything shows in the finish.
Mix your concrete with as little water as posable and vibrate it into the mold (I used a sawsall to shake the air out of the mold).
You need to let it cure for as long as posable maybe 3-4 weeks.
To finish I just sanded with a d/a sander, buffed and applied carnauba wax.

I'd be happy to answer any questions you have.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #544 on:** Nov 15, 2011, 11:58:31 AM »

that looks awesome, but i want to get htis done quickly, and i will be lifting all of it myself and such, i know it takes a long time for concrete to fully cure..... i want to have this project done before years end. most likely will be doing it in december.... i will try and look into that book you recommended though, also will be youtubing it and doing mroe research online.....

also had another unrelated question... we jsut got our hardwood floors redone. is there a way to safely put furniture on it, or are we going to need to worry about felt padding everything?

what if some of the furniture has wheels? like an office chair? or a moving dolly? or if i wanted to put wheels onto something?

blumagoo · « **Reply #545 on:** Nov 15, 2011, 02:30:08 PM »

You can also pour them in place, but I have no experience with this and your finish depends on your ability to trowel concrete.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #546 on:** Nov 15, 2011, 03:39:39 PM »

i think i will more than likely be pouring it in place

jimbo74 · « **Reply #547 on:** Nov 16, 2011, 09:58:27 AM »

what about the wheels on the floors hting?

jimbo74 · « **Reply #548 on:** Nov 18, 2011, 07:30:21 PM »

any ideas?

blumagoo · « **Reply #549 on:** Nov 19, 2011, 06:00:24 PM »

I don't know what product was used on your floors but we used a water based varathane product it's now 3 years old and if I was worried about it staying nice and shinny I would have put felt on everything.
The rocking chair has claimed it's spot.

RK · « **Reply #550 on:** Nov 22, 2011, 01:50:01 PM »

Need to hang a new fiberglass front door. This should be fun.

Slolyfe · « **Reply #551 on:** Nov 22, 2011, 02:30:12 PM »

Some nice projects on here. Here is my most recent time/money suck. The backyard and deck. I did everything on my own over the course of a couple months but it turned out pretty well. Just need to plant around the deck.

Before:

After:

jimbo74 · « **Reply #552 on:** Nov 22, 2011, 03:26:23 PM »

looks awesome, a world of difference....

jimbo74 · « **Reply #553 on:** Nov 23, 2011, 01:31:10 PM »

so our heater isnt working, i tried the trouble code it produced, and ran the test mode on it, works fine in test mode, but when i try to make it work, it will not fire up the coil..... it might be the rpessure switch, but the line appears to be fine, and there isn't any obstruction in the vent... so? i am stumped. and freezing.....

redrocket93 · « **Reply #554 on:** Nov 23, 2011, 01:47:23 PM »

That backyard looks great Slolyfe. Good job man.

blumagoo · « **Reply #555 on:** Nov 23, 2011, 05:44:34 PM »

Quote from: jimbo74 on Nov 23, 2011, 01:31:10 PM

so our heater isnt working, i tried the trouble code it produced, and ran the test mode on it, works fine in test mode, but when i try to make it work, it will not fire up the coil..... it might be the rpessure switch, but the line appears to be fine, and there isn't any obstruction in the vent... so? i am stumped. and freezing.....

What was the code description?
Have you done a restart yet?

junya92toy · « **Reply #556 on:** Nov 23, 2011, 05:51:43 PM »

Pull the thermostat off the wall, you can cross 2 wires to get the heater to kick on

blumagoo · « **Reply #557 on:** Nov 23, 2011, 06:16:23 PM »

Yes if the thermostat is the problem then connecting the red and white wires (or if there are only 2 than those 2 are your heat contact) will remove the t.stat from the loop, and if thats the case then replace the t.stat or in the mean time just connect the 2 wires.
If the furnace is flashing a trouble code it is usually an issue with the furnace and resetting the power (turn off and back on) will clear the code and restart but if the problem still exists the code will return.

Post the code description.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #558 on:** Nov 23, 2011, 09:02:57 PM »

it is code 31

i have turned the power off and back on, it appears fine, until i turn it on via the wall mounted thermostat, then the little fan comes on, but the coils never glow..... during the reset/self test process when i jump some of the connectors, the coils turn on just fine.....

the code it is saying is the PRESSURE, DRAFT SAFEGUARD, AUXILARY-LIMIT (WHEN USED), OR BLOCKED VENT SHUTOFF (WHEN USED) SWITCH DID NOT CLOSE OR REOPENED

blumagoo · « **Reply #559 on:** Nov 23, 2011, 09:27:22 PM »

If the draft inducer fan comes on but the ignitor coils don't then it must have something to do with the pressure switch at the vent. Find that switch and put a continuity tester across the 2 terminals as it try's to start up and see if the switch closes, if it doesn't than it could be the switch if it does than it might be the connection.

I do install furnaces and A/C for a living so I'll try and answer any questions to help you resolve your no heat issue.
Good luck

jimbo74 · « **Reply #560 on:** Nov 24, 2011, 11:04:12 AM »

the coils are only turning on in the test mode

when should i be trying to see if the switch is working? also, what setting do i put my voltmeter on? is it the ohmeter?

blumagoo · « **Reply #561 on:** Nov 24, 2011, 11:26:01 AM »

Check the switch as the furnace is starting in normal mode, you should be able to see the switch close with an ohmmeter.
You could also do it again in test mode to verify which switch is not working.
The control circuit on hvac equipment is 24v you could also check it that way.

What brand and model is it and how old is it?

jimbo74 · « **Reply #562 on:** Nov 24, 2011, 01:01:37 PM »

i have no idea on the brand and model, it does say payne high efficiency

there are stickers all over it, and one of them says installed or maintenance performed 03 oct 2007... but the stickers are pretty much stickers that say for repair or service, call this number.....

with the ohm eter, i am checking it has resistance? and if it closes, goes to infinity?

blumagoo · « **Reply #563 on:** Nov 24, 2011, 01:34:55 PM »

Yes the ohmmeter goes to infinity when closed.
Another thing is limit switches sometimes have resets which is a small button on the switch you and go through the unit and look for and reset these if you have them, I would also go through and check all the wiring connections I often find a loose connection to be the cause. Have you tried eliminating the thermostat and its wiring from the equation, you can do this by finding the t.stat connection at the furnace and connecting the r and w terminals with a small piece of wire when you do this the furnace should try to start.

These are things that I do first when trouble shooting a furnace, but based on your first couple of posts on this subject make sure you check the pressure switch on the exhaust. It should close as the draft inducer motor starts. The purpose of this switch is to not allow the burner to light until the operation of the draft inducer is verified by the switch.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #564 on:** Nov 24, 2011, 05:33:57 PM »

so jump r and w? leave them connected or an instant jump?

when i ran the self-test, it said to remove the r and just leave it hanging.

ok, so that pressure switch should have some reading, and go to infinity when it closes, if it closes

i havent yet confirmed the vent tube is clear, but unless some animal crawler through the roof pipe... it should be.... what would be the best way to verify? take the pipe apart?

junya92toy · « **Reply #565 on:** Nov 24, 2011, 07:27:35 PM »

yes leave the w and r connected to see if the furnace runs, a t stat is just a switch or relay in a way

jimbo74 · « **Reply #566 on:** Nov 24, 2011, 08:15:05 PM »

so solid jump w and r and leave it?

blumagoo · « **Reply #567 on:** Nov 24, 2011, 09:29:00 PM »

leave it for long enough to see if the furnace will startup, if it does than you need a new tstat and in the mean time you could use that jumper to run the heat as long as you remember to turn it off before the house gets too hot.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #568 on:** Nov 25, 2011, 01:58:46 PM »

ok, so i jump r and w, the inducer fan comes on, but the coil never glows...... if i run the self test, the coil does glow......

so at this point, the cpil wont light..... should i start looking into the pressure switch?

so we called a pro..... they will be here in a few hours......

jimbo74 · « **Reply #569 on:** Nov 25, 2011, 04:20:25 PM »

ok, so it was something stupid simple...... there was some switch on the blower unit that detected water and tripped, although no water was present, but it is a manual reset switch and the tech showed me how to reset it if it happens again

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