cams

Started by crawlin2u, February 03, 2004, 10:51:15 PM

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crawlin2u

hey i got a turbo camshaft here that i may install in my stock toyota efi motor,  what are the pros and cons in  putting the cam in the motor ??     shayne
I creep and I crawl, thats what I learned first

crawlin2u

the motor i have now is not  a turbo  but the only differance in the cam is  valve lift ,     efi no turbo is .426I and .440E  turbo is .431I and .443E  the duration  is all the same   250/260
I creep and I crawl, thats what I learned first

brainlessfool

save you time, thats not enuf diff. to make any diff.   my.02   butt hay i am a fool
A good day working, that's just sick :reg:

WHITE_TRASH

If memory serves higher lift is better for torque.  It allows more fuel & air into the cylinder at a higher rate, without the need for high rpm to do so.  Hell put it in already itll work.  Considering those #'s Itll work without any real downfalls.
WT
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

brainlessfool

rule of thumb, lift gives low end,  dur. gives high end, and don't get me going on over lap.  my thinking is that 5k on intake and 3k on exh. is not going to make any diff. that anyone can tell, or feel. yes it will work but so does the one thats in there now. change cams and ....headgasket?   for 5k more lift? heck just clamp down on the valve adjustments:hammer:
A good day working, that's just sick :reg:

crawlin2u

well i have a tri y header on with a high flow  cat, i think i will get the cam it will be more repsonsive on my low end throttle, its just a front cover and a little valve adjustment, no big deal, plus im getting the cam for a smokin deal, and its new out of the box from nw offroad
I creep and I crawl, thats what I learned first

crawlin2u

I like wt 's thinkin, nothin like a little more torque, I want to do  a little mod to my motor and its gonna be either the msd 6 off road  kit or the cam  both are the same price for me.
I creep and I crawl, thats what I learned first

brainlessfool

just the cover huh? well let us know how it goes:thumbs:
A good day working, that's just sick :reg:

Marlin

2 years ago, I installed a turbo cam in my 22r hybred motor.
Since I have a shaved 20r head (0.147") to fit on the shorter 90 22r block, I cannot run a performance cam :sob:
The turbo cam did make a small increase in power on my 80 crawler truck.
1980 Toyota - 1997 3RZ-FE 2.7l Engine, Turbo R151F 4.31:1, Triple Turbo Marlin Crawler Billet (2.28x4.70x4.70) = 1,148:1 Crawl Ratio, Marlin Crawler Twin Stick and Short Throw Shift Kits, 30mm H/D Output Shaft, High Angle Drive Lines, 5.29:1, ARBs, High Pinion Front, 25mm HD Billet High Steer Kit, 6 Pin Locking Hub Bodies, 86+ Wide Rear End, V6 3rd member, Chromolly Axles all around, 37" IROKs with Beadlocks, York onboard air - Rollbar air tank, Premier Power Welder, Marlin Crawler 4" USA-made Leaf Springs, Bilstein Shocks, et cetera....

crawlin2u

Thanks for the comment, if it gives  me  a better out come of an MSD ignition then I may install the turbo cam, I have heard the MSD 6 off-road set helps in your motors ,able  to keep that low  end steady power when you are in the low gear crawlin ratio.unlike the stock set up will let your motor die when its crawling. (Like its under a load, uphills and over large boulders) do have this correct? Know what im gettin at?      I'm trying to get the biggest bang for my buck
I creep and I crawl, thats what I learned first

WHITE_TRASH

If its any cheaper just get the regular 6a I never have understood msd's apparant marketing ploy of saying its vibration proof.  take the cover off of one sometime they are all sealed in epoxy.  If you can find a 6al for cheap Id do that in a heartbeat, the same box just has a rev limiter.  If you drive like me limiters are a good thing.
WT
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

crawlin2u

I'm gonna weigh my options here
I creep and I crawl, thats what I learned first

84runner

Marlin can u explain in a little more detail for me why you cannot runa performance cam in motor please
RUBICON TESTED BIG BALLS APPROVED

brainlessfool

valve stems to short?
A good day working, that's just sick :reg:

Thumper

I think its because when he shaved the head it moves it closer too the pistons= more compression, but when u start adding big lift cams it pushes the valves further and they will hit the pistions.
We have been doing this around here with alot of luck building motors for race cars and our rock crawlers, but we have too grind down the top of the pistion some for better valve clearence becuase we are shaveing so much off but it makes them run strong with lots of power.
If you didn't make it, and it ain't broke, you didn't try hard enough.

Marlin

Thumper's got it right.
To install a 98 link timing chain cylinder head (75 to 84') on a 96 link block (85-95'), the head must be decked, and a high lift cam will cause the valves to hit the pistons unless the pistons are flycut for clearance.
1980 Toyota - 1997 3RZ-FE 2.7l Engine, Turbo R151F 4.31:1, Triple Turbo Marlin Crawler Billet (2.28x4.70x4.70) = 1,148:1 Crawl Ratio, Marlin Crawler Twin Stick and Short Throw Shift Kits, 30mm H/D Output Shaft, High Angle Drive Lines, 5.29:1, ARBs, High Pinion Front, 25mm HD Billet High Steer Kit, 6 Pin Locking Hub Bodies, 86+ Wide Rear End, V6 3rd member, Chromolly Axles all around, 37" IROKs with Beadlocks, York onboard air - Rollbar air tank, Premier Power Welder, Marlin Crawler 4" USA-made Leaf Springs, Bilstein Shocks, et cetera....

84runner

Ok got ya that makes since of course. what you are telling me is that the head you put on had to be milled down cause the timming chain is only 96 links as oppose to the earlier model 98 link timming chain blocks.  So  this mean that the head is thicker  And therefore you are down sizeing the cuombustion chambers and increasing the compression.  So is this the reason you went with a 20R head?
RUBICON TESTED BIG BALLS APPROVED

Thumper

yes thats exacty right. we usally take the tall deck 22r blocks custom fit the pistions( thats where we order the kit mark 1234 on them and measure each pistion and have the cylinder bored too each pistions specs), then take the 20r head have it shaved down, then put 22r rockers in it (they are lighter) with a low too mid range cam for 4x4s a higher rpm cam for racecars and 2wds, and port and polish the intake and exhaust ports. then if the customer wants we can put the bigger valves in the head too.
all depends on how much they are wanting too spend and how much power they want.
If you didn't make it, and it ain't broke, you didn't try hard enough.