Q for Marlin

Started by WHITE_TRASH, January 22, 2004, 06:28:32 PM

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WHITE_TRASH

Last night a buddy of mine jumped his truck.  Its a 84 22r 4x4. Anyway after he jumped it it started clicking in reverse.  It is pretty loud, he brought it by my work to let me hear it, it sounds like a broken tooth in the tranny.  It doesnt make any noises other than when its in reverse. He says it drives normal except for the noise.  I figure a w56 swap is in order, I can pick one up for cheap.  Does anyone have any thoughts on this one? :_oops: :slap:
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

84runner

Jumped as in all 4 wheels in the air?
RUBICON TESTED BIG BALLS APPROVED

WHITE_TRASH

yep got some decent air too im told.  I went all around his rig preliminary looks ok just havent crawled under it yet.
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

Marlin

Quote from: WHITE_TRASH on January 22, 2004, 06:28:32 PM
Last night a buddy of mine jumped his truck.  Its a 84 22r 4x4. Anyway after he jumped it it started clicking in reverse.  It is pretty loud, he brought it by my work to let me hear it, it sounds like a broken tooth in the tranny.  It doesnt make any noises other than when its in reverse. He says it drives normal except for the noise.  I figure a w56 swap is in order, I can pick one up for cheap.  Does anyone have any thoughts on this one? :_oops: :slap:
I have heard of this happening before :help: It is most common in 8/83' to mid 86' G type carbureted powered transmissions. These years had steel 1/2 and 3/4 forks. The main problem is that the 1/2 fork has vulcanized nylon rubbing blocks that wear away.
When the truck landed, the enertia in the trans, moved the loose 1/2 shift collar, (which also has the reverse driven teeth on it) into the reverse idler gear :yipes: Result=chipped, broken teeth, most likely on the countershaft :moon:
Drain the oil, and hopefully the broken teeth will be on the magnet. The trans can still be driven, just stay out of reverse!
Installing a W56 is a great upgrade :thumbs: You will also need the matching t-case and modify the foorboard as required.

Marlin
1980 Toyota - 1997 3RZ-FE 2.7l Engine, Turbo R151F 4.31:1, Triple Turbo Marlin Crawler Billet (2.28x4.70x4.70) = 1,148:1 Crawl Ratio, Marlin Crawler Twin Stick and Short Throw Shift Kits, 30mm H/D Output Shaft, High Angle Drive Lines, 5.29:1, ARBs, High Pinion Front, 25mm HD Billet High Steer Kit, 6 Pin Locking Hub Bodies, 86+ Wide Rear End, V6 3rd member, Chromolly Axles all around, 37" IROKs with Beadlocks, York onboard air - Rollbar air tank, Premier Power Welder, Marlin Crawler 4" USA-made Leaf Springs, Bilstein Shocks, et cetera....

WHITE_TRASH

Dangit Marlin you never cease to amaze me with your off the top of your head knowledge :bowdown: That sounds about perfect as he said he landed on his right rear tire first.  I have access to a lot of toy stuff (I work at a wrecking yard during decent weather for parts!)  and I have a buddy that owns a body shop and is always dragging rolled trucks to his shop for misc parts. So I have no issues getting parts.  Now what mods will I have to make to the floor?  Just for the shifters I presume?
Thanx again :thumbs:
WT
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

Marlin

#5
If you install a single stick 85 to 88 EFI style W56 trans, both trans and t-case handles will be 2.5" rearward. (You will also need the W56 top shifting t-case). A easier choice would be a 89-95 forward shifting W56 EFI trans and t-case. The handles would only be 1/2" rearward.
The ultimate trans is a 86-87 R151F 22REFI turbo trans and t-case. It is a 100% bolt in and 100% stronger.
All these trans are 25.5" long--the same as your G52, so driveshafts, crossmember, speedocable, ect. bolts right up!
Good luck on the upgrade :driving:

Marlin
1980 Toyota - 1997 3RZ-FE 2.7l Engine, Turbo R151F 4.31:1, Triple Turbo Marlin Crawler Billet (2.28x4.70x4.70) = 1,148:1 Crawl Ratio, Marlin Crawler Twin Stick and Short Throw Shift Kits, 30mm H/D Output Shaft, High Angle Drive Lines, 5.29:1, ARBs, High Pinion Front, 25mm HD Billet High Steer Kit, 6 Pin Locking Hub Bodies, 86+ Wide Rear End, V6 3rd member, Chromolly Axles all around, 37" IROKs with Beadlocks, York onboard air - Rollbar air tank, Premier Power Welder, Marlin Crawler 4" USA-made Leaf Springs, Bilstein Shocks, et cetera....

WHITE_TRASH

#6
I have 2 91's with t-cases and a 94 with t- case guess Im setup then huh?  I might have a line on a rf151 as well bu for what Im doing I dont think its worth the effort for that last morsel of strength.
Now if I was gonna put a toy 5-speed in MY truck hmmmmmmm.
Thanx
WT
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

Marlin

The 94 is the best--it has a reverse syncrow brake and a 3mm wider front input gear :biggthumpup:
You will need to reuse the 84 trans handle (it has a passenger side offset), and the matching t-case handle. The 94 handle is a drivers side offset, and will not fit the 84 body boot.
Just incase you were wondering.

Marlin
1980 Toyota - 1997 3RZ-FE 2.7l Engine, Turbo R151F 4.31:1, Triple Turbo Marlin Crawler Billet (2.28x4.70x4.70) = 1,148:1 Crawl Ratio, Marlin Crawler Twin Stick and Short Throw Shift Kits, 30mm H/D Output Shaft, High Angle Drive Lines, 5.29:1, ARBs, High Pinion Front, 25mm HD Billet High Steer Kit, 6 Pin Locking Hub Bodies, 86+ Wide Rear End, V6 3rd member, Chromolly Axles all around, 37" IROKs with Beadlocks, York onboard air - Rollbar air tank, Premier Power Welder, Marlin Crawler 4" USA-made Leaf Springs, Bilstein Shocks, et cetera....

WHITE_TRASH

 :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:
I can only hope I have half of your knowledge someday!
Yall should try and make it to the NW one of these days we could show yall a real good time.  I suppose Ill have to come down there you guys are always busy :greengrin:
WT
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??