Topic: Autolite 65 plugs in a 22R????

[DeMented Toys]

Anyone heard anything about running Autolite 65 plugs in a 22R instead of the recomended Autolite 64 plugs??  The 65 is a hotter plug and can be ran in the 22RE with a timing adjustment, ect.  It is gapped .048 and creats a little hotter spark.  Does that work in the 22R as well?  Anyone have any thoughts or experience with this?

[kneedownnate]

I thought they got colder as the # went up?  I've had my best luck with bosch platinums, +2 seem to work best.  My trucks have never seemed to really like autolites.

[DeMented Toys [OP]]

I think it may have to do with the electrode and gapping the plugs at .048 instead of .032 or something like that.

[grumpy1@netptc.net]

Lot of folks think that this plug is better than that plug the truth is spark is spark unless you switch to msd systems or do major changes like that as long as the coil can lite the fuel mixture your truck will run fine(like e stock)
a higher out put coil will help more than anything coupled with a msd(multi spark discharge) system (noticeable gains in torque at rpms up to 3000 and no misfires at high rpms)
but when you go messing around with things that you don't really understand like heat ranges AND TIMING =YOUR GONNA CHANGE THE HEAD GASKET \
if you can run your plug gaps wider it results in a bigger flame and more complete lighting of the a/f mixture but without upgrading your coil then the wires then the cap and rotor (just like everything else you do to trick your truck )(IE lifting-bigger tires -lower gears -stronger axles-stronger birfields-adding CV joints to your driveshafts -longer shocks- bigger brakes -ect ect ect ect it never stops does it guys ) roflmao
all I'm saying is unless your gonna kick down with about 300.00 plus bucks and time or engine repairs when things aren't right better just leave it alone

u can try this one up grade safely buy a high out put coil and open up you plug gaps to around .050 -.060 put the stock plugs in it and watch how much you gain with that-my guess is mostly you change plugs more often and only gain a tiny bit of torque at idle in low gear and maybe a little bit on the top end (it wont miss at high speed or until the valves float) but when you turn a 22r or re at high speed your motor wont last too long and it wont matter anyway cause you'll blow it up
bottom line is the is no cheap or free way to get more power other than use good tune up parts set every thing to Toyota specs make sure all the vacuum lines are routed correctly (as on the under hood label) set the valves at .008 intake and .012 exhaust
make sure the engine temp is at least 180f and not over 200f
use good oil and keep it clean change your air filter
make sure that the cold air tubes are in place from the air cleaner to the grille(pre-heated air robbs power) make sure that your egr valve is working properly or the Head gasket WILL FAIL between cylinders 3 @4
make sure the exhaust is not plugged and get rid of that factory (restrictive)muffler(use a magna flow or dyna max)
don't use anything over 2" on the exhaust (it needs some back pressure)
and just concentrate on stuff like this and you will have many years of reliable peak performance and decent milage depending on you final gear ratio(tire size and gear ratio in the pumpkins)
all these things are a must even with a beefed up motor and if you cant do all of this first your wasting time and money that you probably don't have to begin with
if money is no object and you have the basics down already get a LC engineering motor and thrash it and have fun
trust me i have owned over 40 Toyota trucks myself and built probably twice that many engines on top of my own and unless your gonna spend big bucks and have another daily driver stick to what you have now
and save your money for retirement or a trip to the Bahama's because when your done playing with this and adjusting that its gonna just cost you more in the long run- and you could have more fun doing other things rather than dumping it in your truck trying to get just a little more out of it with out going all out
 i guess what I'm trying to say is if it don't miss and it starts every time and get OK milage  and don't run hot ,don't mess with it and go have fun on the trail man it will take you there and back just fine the way it is and you will be able to afford the gas it takes to do it all
oh one more thing  a 3 core radiator is also a smart upgrade that will keep you going longer and i can get them for about 150.00 all day(that includes my commission lol)
ant way happy trails
GRUMPY

[DeMented Toys [OP]]

So the EGR Valve should be hooked up to something?  Mine has the top vaccume line plugged and the bigger one off the side is not plugged, but not hooked to anything. It dosen't even have a hose on it.  Any ideas?

[grumpy1@netptc.net]

i don't know what year you have but yes the egr should be hooked up and working-it runs off of a back pressure transducer which looks like a round disk shaped plastic piece that may have as many as 3 vacuum nipples on it,and one larger nipple on the bottom
the bottom one hooks to the large nipple on the egr valve near the base where it is mounted-(make sure it is not plugged up with carbon-it gets plugged -and this is common)with the engine running and that hose unhooked you accelerate the throttle and you should feel some exhaust flowing out of this nipple
-if not the nipple or the egr passage is plugged or restricted-(this side of the valve is open to the exhaust,and the passage goes to the drivers side of the head below where the #2,3,4 spark plugs screw into the head)
with the exhaust manifold off you will see this passage where it gets its supply of exhaust gas they are the small holes about 3/8 " in diameter.
anywaythe other side of the system goes to the intake on carbed trucks it hooks to the intake behind the carb towards the valve cover,two 6mm bolts hold it down,on efi models it bolts to  the rear of the intake.
(this area plugs up often)(as well as the pipe that connects it to the egr valve)
ANYWAY the way this works is when the engine is under light load and accelerating vacuum travels to the transducer thru on of the two vacuum source lines from the carb  ,or throttle body whichever  you have the transducer detects back pressure (load) and opens allowing vacuum to flow to the egr valve,thus opening the egr valve (if its diaphragm is in good condition) and the valve opens allowing a small amout of exhaust gas to enter the intake manifold resulting in lower combustion temperatures
and longer engine (head gasket life)(this system is in place to prevent detonation which is what you hear as a ping when you get on the gas)(over advanced timing will cause this problem as well)when the engine "PINGS" what is actually happening is the head is raising up off of the engine block due to expanding combustion gasses  as the piston is still on the upward travel
guess what this ROBBS POWER AND MILAGE!
when the ping occurs it happens in nano-seconds  or milli-seconds- but it still happens and it will cause the head gasket to fail over time-the 22r engine is especially sensitive to detonation and can be detonating while you hear it or not -the PING IS DETONATION IN A BIG WAY and is damageing to your engine
thats whyengine internal temp is so critical to long life as well as power
detonation is uncontrolled burning of the fuel mixture which means that the fuel mixture that lites itself with out spark -so for those of you who think that raising the compresion by shaving the head is a Good way to make power on these engines BAD IDEA unless you add more fuel and redesign the combustion chamber or porcelain coat everything and do all the things it takes to make this engine efficient internally your engine wont perform as well as it could and wont last long(like 200k miles)
from my experience you can do things like mill the head and swap the cam or even swap the head but the head is the weak point and usually lasts about 10k-20k miles before the gasket fails  but it will make better power for awhile
anyway if all the systems on the truck are in place hooked up and working and all tune up specs are within tolerance in the long run it will perform very well for a very long time
look at the under hood tune up label for the exact specs for your truck and vacuum line routing and make darn sure that all of the vacuum lines are connected properly
especially the timing and egr controls these in particular affect the performance and engine life -OK  if i seem like a know it all I'm not but i have owned over 40 of these trucks and as a smog technician and diagnostic/driveability tech for over  20 years i have worked on hundreds if not thousands of these trucks when the customer said" it just don't run as good as it did" or " can you squeeze just a little more out of it for me"
and i can honestly say that i have made all the mistakes that most of you guys will make trying this or that to get more power and tried most any aftermarket gizmo's,cam,header,additive,ect ect
and like i said in other articles there is no one single cheap thing you can do to get more out of your truck without SPENDING alot of greenbacks
uuuuh ooooooh I'm missing my nascar race got to go for now ==========================================================================================================================#########################################################################