Author Topic: Electric Locker- should I use it switched or cable actuated?  (Read 4174 times)

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snowplow

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Hey guys, Im doing a hi pinion electric locker third in the front of mine. How hard is it to wire up for the mini truck ( I hate electrical but know some people who know some people ). I am wondering if since the electrical motor is the only questionably vulnerable part should I just not bother wiring it up at all and buying the downey cable actuator? The only thing stopping me so far is I always remember hearing about them in jeeps years ago- and I hate jeeps.   :thumbs:     Do cables get stiff and hard to engage. Will they plague me too or do you just replace the cable every 5 years?
       Thanks snowplow :turtle:

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A friend of mine did the cable in his 94 extra cab, had a few adjustment problems in the beginning but it works sweet now. He put his in the rear though since he still has IFS.
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Hottrod81

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I don't believe a cable acuator will work in the front unless you do a custom one like Fireball did.  I know that they won't work on the low pinions.  Order the wiring kit from Jim at Inchworm if you don't like wiring.  It makes is tremendously easy to hook up.

BigMike

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FIREBALL did a custom cable setup and I didn't like it. He had to hold the cable down and drive with one hand while he waited for it to engage, and the same for it to disengage.

In my opinion, Cable is ok if you only engage and disengage your locker maybe 2 or 3 times a run.

As for me, I only use my locker when I loose forward progress, and as soon as I start moving again, it is immediately disengaged. The only exception would be if there is a huge crowd and I don't want to look like a novice. I like trying to do every obsticle open-open as much as possible. It gives me a challenge to pick the better line and keeps my skills sharp.

So I am constantly engaging and disengaging my e-locker over and over and over. I have a 3-relay setup that just uses a simple two-wire toggle switch and an "engaged" indicator lamp. All I do is flip the switch and keep driving. Then flip it back to disengage. I don't have to worry about "feeling the locker through the cable" or "is it unlocked, I don't know" or "I just need to drive a bit more while holding onto the cable". Annoying.

The way I see it is even if my Electric Motor or any of my wiring fails, all I need to do is pull out a 12mm socket and a ratchet and three bolts later I can engage or disengage it manually. No oil leaks and it uses an O-Ring to seal the motor down, so I don't have to worry about resealing it either.

Electric is convenient, simple, and nice. I have even engaged my rear locker while going around a corner on a freeway overpass at 80 MPH under throttle and it engaged so smooth I didn't even feel it. My indicator light just simply turned on. It was crazy. That e-locker is amazing

BigMike
« Last Edit: Aug 16, 2006, 10:07:30 AM by BigMike »
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Hottrod81

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I agree.  The e-lockers are great and even if the motor does fail, like you said, it can be engaged

BigMike

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Order the wiring kit from Jim at Inchworm if you don't like wiring.  It makes is tremendously easy to hook up.

I would be careful with their kit. The picture does not show the relays, there is a highly-common wiring diagram on the internet for the E-Locker that uses only Two Relays, and I fear that is what he is using. The way it works is that you have to hold the switch in the CLOSED position until your light comes on, and then you must remove your finger from the switch or else the motor will keep jamming the fork into the shift hub.

I just installed a High Pinion E-Locker into my front end and a Standard Pinion E-Locker into the rear end of my buddies truck, so I need to build two harnesses for both our rigs. I have plans on providing a full wiring diagram and Dave would like me to assemble a kit for retail here at Marlin Crawler.

In my opinion the 3-Relay setup is the only way to go. If that is what inchworm is using, then that is great.

BigMike
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79coyotefrg

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I have plans on providing a full wiring diagram and Dave would like me to assemble a kit for retail here at Marlin Crawler.

In my opinion the 3-Relay setup is the only way to go. If that is what inchworm is using, then that is great.

BigMike
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Hottrod81

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I would like to see your diagram.  On his, you don't have to hold the switch.  If yours is better, than I would have no problem switching.  His system uses a 6 prong switch with a resistor.

bruiz05

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this is what i have been using for a year and a half now and never had a problem. this is the same diagram that jim at inchworm sells. my opinion is its about a hundred dollars cheaper to put the kit togather your self than to buy one.

BIG MIKE "IM" me your diagram i want to see your 3 realy setup.
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snowplow [OP]

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Thanks everybody but I am still confused. I decided to do electric not cable, for cable will not work in front anyway. But which way to wire is the best. How in the hell can I decide if i dont know much about wiring and everyone has done it a different way it seems like. Does anyone have a do it yourself wiring diagram for the 3 relay system?

Hottrod81

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Bigmike is going to try to post the 3 relay system on the board.

79coyotefrg

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I have plans on providing a full wiring diagram and Dave would like me to assemble a kit for retail here at Marlin Crawler.


BigMike
now you know what i want for Christmas  :woohoo:
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

megolfer

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I would buy one.  I need one knowfor my hi pinion.

Hottrod81

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I would like to see the 3 relay diagram.

Rockdiver

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Me Too Need to wire mine tomorrow

 
 
 
 
 

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