Author Topic: The Official 3RZ Knowledge and Database Thread (Read 911282 times)

GRW · « **Reply #1200 on:** Dec 02, 2014, 06:41:49 AM »

Quote from: MRHilux87 on Dec 01, 2014, 02:09:28 PM

The only line I worry about is my fuel line. It runs up the passanger side and its too close to the header for comfort. Still trying to decide if I wanna move the hard line or make a shield. What did you all do?

I used the fuel lines from the Tacoma that along with a brake line bending tool.
The Taco lines were long enough (once reshaped) to run from the stock fuel tank location to the drivers side of the engine bay.
I have seen other people do it the same way.

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #1201 on:** Dec 02, 2014, 07:08:06 AM »

Quote from: MRHilux87 on Dec 01, 2014, 02:09:28 PM

The only line I worry about is my fuel line. It runs up the passanger side and its too close to the header for comfort. Still trying to decide if I wanna move the hard line or make a shield. What did you all do?

I used some fabric heat shield material from Jegs or Summit on that portion of the fuel line. I think it's still on my truck. I can mail it to you if you want it...

PM me an address if you want it and I'll send it in an envelope or flat rate.

Nation · « **Reply #1202 on:** Dec 02, 2014, 07:23:08 AM »

Quote from: dcg9381 on Dec 01, 2014, 09:01:20 PM

Downpipe fabrication.
I used a manifold from Treadstone performance. It's a cast manifold, but it's thick, the metal is somewhat soft, but I don't trust the "tube" manifolds that I see being built.
As far as I'm concerned the best manifold in the business is made by Steed Speed, but it's not inexpensive at $750. Treadstone is around $350.
It's setup for an external wastegate, which I had from my 22RTE.. However, plumbing it into the exhaust isn't trivial...

My turbo has a V-band exit, it allows the exhaust to rotate, which is helpful for prototyping.

Here's the mockup:

The LC engineering manifold is beast!

GRW · « **Reply #1203 on:** Dec 03, 2014, 05:38:04 AM »

Quote from: liveoak on Dec 02, 2014, 06:57:29 AM

do you have a picture of that valve clearance? which 22re heater valve did you use, the metal one or the plastic?

The 22RE's was the metal one.
The Taco valve (plastic) was 90 deg off of the 22RE's and the cable just would not work.
I can take some pictures of the valve when I get home, it is a snug fit (had to tweek a couple brackets so it would not rub).

Nation · « **Reply #1204 on:** Dec 03, 2014, 06:41:10 AM »

I just deleted mine.

GRW · « **Reply #1205 on:** Dec 04, 2014, 05:44:02 AM »

My 84 had an 86 EFI in it before I started the 3RZ swap.
My 86 had a metal valve on it.
I have it installed but its a snug fit, once I start it I will know if it's going to be an issue or not.
It does have some clearance (after being tweeted a little).
You can also trim some of the excess material to give it more clearance ( I will try that before going out to find another).

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1043276/fullsize/photo-3.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1043278/fullsize/photo-5.jpg

GRW · « **Reply #1206 on:** Dec 05, 2014, 06:06:22 AM »

I hope to find out soon......
I will be installing flooring up stairs this weekend so I will most likely not find out for another week..... or two $:-\$
It depends on how everything goes, still have a few things on my list.
Do you have (or can you take) a picture of the newer plastic valve?
Do you have a picture of it installed?
Or better yet does anyone have a picture of both side by side?
How about a part number??? I can get my parts guy to order me one up.
I know it's "REAL close" and if it clears during motor twist it will be tight.

I also do not have stock t-case mounts so I will not have as much movement as a stock mounted set up will.
But if I can get the small plastic valve before I crank it over for the first time (in this truck) I would feel better about it.

Thanks

MRHilux87 · « **Reply #1207 on:** Dec 05, 2014, 09:06:01 AM »

I had the metal valve I think. No problems here yet after about 800 miles.

Nation · « **Reply #1208 on:** Dec 05, 2014, 09:07:59 AM »

1" body lift haha

SqWADoosh · « **Reply #1209 on:** Dec 05, 2014, 03:36:52 PM »

Hey fellas my 3RZ is running too hot with my stock radiator. I'm torn between dropping in a 3 row CSF or going the aluminum route. Anyone care to chime in on what is working well to keep your swap cool?

GRW · « **Reply #1210 on:** Dec 05, 2014, 05:08:48 PM »

Quote from: SqWADoosh on Dec 05, 2014, 03:36:52 PM

Hey fellas my 3RZ is running too hot with my stock radiator. I'm torn between dropping in a 3 row CSF or going the aluminum route. Anyone care to chime in on what is working well to keep your swap cool?

Is it an old radiator or new?
How close is the fan?
Did you have the shroud on it?
Have you thought about an electric fan?

HogCanyonHopper · « **Reply #1211 on:** Dec 07, 2014, 06:51:29 AM »

Quote from: SqWADoosh on Dec 05, 2014, 03:36:52 PM

Hey fellas my 3RZ is running too hot with my stock radiator. I'm torn between dropping in a 3 row CSF or going the aluminum route. Anyone care to chime in on what is working well to keep your swap cool?

I have a 3 row CSF in mine and it works great.
http://www.amazon.com/CSF-89-95-Toyota-4Runner-Radiator/dp/B000CFTI1U/ref=sr_1_13?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1417963677&sr=1-13&keywords=toyota+3+row

SqWADoosh · « **Reply #1212 on:** Dec 07, 2014, 03:32:35 PM »

Quote from: GRW on Dec 05, 2014, 05:08:48 PM

Is it an old radiator or new?
How close is the fan?
Did you have the shroud on it?
Have you thought about an electric fan?

It appears to be newer. It was on the truck when I bought it. The fan is 2 1/4" away from the radiator as it sits now. The shroud is installed yes. I thought about an electric fan however would prefer to not have to go that route. Below you will find some pictures of my current radiator. It is quite a small unit measuring only 20" tall and has brackets that push it closer to the fan. I believe the 3 row CSF model# 2314 found here may be the best route for me seeing as it should drop right in and is over twice as big of a radiator as I'm currently running.

SqWADoosh · « **Reply #1213 on:** Dec 07, 2014, 03:37:39 PM »

Quote from: HogCanyonHopper on Dec 07, 2014, 06:51:29 AM

I have a 3 row CSF in mine and it works great.
http://www.amazon.com/CSF-89-95-Toyota-4Runner-Radiator/dp/B000CFTI1U/ref=sr_1_13?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1417963677&sr=1-13&keywords=toyota+3+row

Yeah that is the route I am teetering towards myself. The one you linked is a different model I'm guessing because you have a 1st gen truck.

MRHilux87 · « **Reply #1214 on:** Dec 07, 2014, 08:26:15 PM »

I had my stock one in for a couple weeks but I just ordered the one on amazon for 85 runners. I'll update when it gets here. Using a semi cheap electric fan with thermostat. It doesn't get hot where I live. The rubithon is the hottest it will see.

androxy · « **Reply #1215 on:** Dec 08, 2014, 01:26:43 AM »

hello everyone.

Long time lurker first time poster.

I have read most of this thread I think and it has served me well through my swap however i have a few questions that i haven't been able to sort out and they are really starting to bug me.

3rz is into a 89 Model Hilux Surf which had a 22R in it from factory. Motor is wired to run with the basics only. For the life of me i cannot get the charging system working, the old 22r had an external regulator which i have deleted and by following the limited wiring diagrams i have been able to find i still cannot get the 3rz alt which is internally regulated to produce power. I am only using the motor harness from the 3rz everything else is either fresh wiring or existing 22R that i am trying to get working. I currently have it wired as below.

3RZ Alternator wire colour Standard Body Loom wire colour
White / Red To Batt+ via 100amp breaker
Yellow Black Yellow Blue To Ign Switch via Charge Fuse Charge Lamp and Ign fuse
Red Blue White To Ign Switch via gauge fuse
White Red Blue To Ign Switch Via Engine Fuse

Can anybody help me out with this?

Also I've got my wiring drawn up for the Water Temp and Oil Press gauges in the factory 22R Dash, are the senders the same on the 3rz will these gauges read correctly?

Tacho is all sorted I'm really annoyed as the alt should have been the easiest part. Many thanks to anyone who can help me out

Cheers

dcg9381 · « **Reply #1216 on:** Dec 08, 2014, 07:55:24 AM »

According to this post, you're missing a ground wire, but I don't see that wire in tacoma diagrams.
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=54868.0

Here's a tacoma diagram:
http://www.2rzturbo.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/1998_tacoma_Charging.pdf - which doesn't indicate a ground.
and another giving the same thing:
http://www.2rzturbo.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/2rz_alterator_wiring_diagram.jpg

On the 22R application, I found this, see the section on an wiring an internally regulated alternator.
http://www.offroadsolutions.com/tech-info/22r-fuel-injection-conversion-harness-85-88-donor/

Quote

Original IC Regulator Connector To Newer Alternator Wiring
-Smaller white wire To Smaller white wire
-Red wire To Red wire
-Yellow wire To Yellow wire
-Large white cable To Large white cable

There are indications on pirate of a franken-alternator using the 22R regulator and 3rz alternator...

Non-alternator questions:
As well as I can remember, the 22R has an oil light switch, not an oil pressure gauge, can you clarify? On the 22RE, the 3rz oil pressure gauge sender and the 3rz gauge sender were not the same, but both were BSP thread, so I just swapped them.

Can you indicate what you did for the tach? I know about the pull-up mod, but I'm curious as how you dealt with it.

androxy · « **Reply #1217 on:** Dec 10, 2014, 05:06:42 AM »

Hi dcg9381,

Thanks for the response, i will have a read through those threads and see if i can't get something sorted. None of my wiring diagrams show an earth wire and i definitely have not hooked one up.

My22r dash has an oil pressure gauge, however i am fairly certain that all the hilux utes that came out with 3z's over here only had a light so I'm doubtful that I'm going to be able to get the gauge working. Might just have to put an led in the dash and use it as a warning light. I will run aftermarket oil temp gauges etc. anyway for peace of mind.

As far as the tach wiring goes i followed threads on here http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=23540.0 see this link, pretty sure this is one of the ones i followed.

Once again thanks for the help and i shall post up what happens. The biggest issue seems to be the difference between the USA motors and what we got down under. Our 2000 models do not have any 02 Sensors or OBD2. Our emissions laws were very relaxed when it came to commercial vehicles until 2006.

EDIT: And with regards to the wiring that you quoted, that was what i tried initially in the hope it would work, the way i have it wired in my original post is what i came up with after a few hours pondering various wiring diagrams.

Cheers

dcg9381 · « **Reply #1218 on:** Dec 10, 2014, 07:00:42 AM »

My 22RE dash has the "SR-5" cluster in it, which has the oil pressure gauge. I measured the sender output to be different than the output of the 2RZ. So I swapped the senders.
The water temperature gauge sender measured the same (cold water, warm water, hot water) as the 2RZ sender, so I kept that one.

Let us know what you find on the alternator... Worst case, there are indications of converting to GM alternators...

What did you do for the tach?

androxy · « **Reply #1219 on:** Dec 12, 2014, 06:04:18 AM »

Well i don't even know if I should post this but the alternator problem is solved. After more hours of reading wiring diagrams and playing with the multimeter i thought it was time to get back to basics. So i started by removing the harness plug from the rear of the alternator. It came out a little too easy, turns out whilst i had the motor on the stand and was fitting the engine harness i didn't plug the connector in correctly. All fixed now and charge light is working

For the tach i hooked the tach wire from the ecu up to the standard gauge and used the resistor to bring it back to correct reading, as per the thread i linked to on the previous page.

Cheers

MRHilux87 · « **Reply #1220 on:** Dec 12, 2014, 11:49:44 AM »

Its always the little things that will get you... glad you figured it out.

MRHilux87 · « **Reply #1221 on:** Dec 12, 2014, 02:21:18 PM »

i just got a new header for my 3rz and it came with an O2 sensor port on the tube down. My last header didn't have one, and the 02 sensor is farther downstream. Anyone have a link or measurements to where both 02 sensors are sposed to go?

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #1222 on:** Dec 12, 2014, 02:27:41 PM »

Quote from: MRHilux87 on Dec 12, 2014, 02:21:18 PM

i just got a new header for my 3rz and it came with an O2 sensor port on the tube down. My last header didn't have one, and the 02 sensor is farther downstream. Anyone have a link or measurements to where both 02 sensors are sposed to go?

Both the O2 sensors on the doner vehicle were right before and after the cat. I'm sure it wouldn't hurt if the upstream one was further upstream though as long as it's after the collector...

What header did you get?

I haven't forgotten that heat shield stuff for the fuel line, I just haven't been home in the daylight to take it off. I'll send it to you next week.

androxy · « **Reply #1223 on:** Dec 12, 2014, 03:36:23 PM »

I don't have any O2 Sensors

But also no OBD2

MRHilux87 · « **Reply #1224 on:** Dec 12, 2014, 05:08:18 PM »

I ended up with a trail gear rock ripper. I hate trail gear like everyone else. I just couldn't beat the price and I plan on going turbo before too long anyways, so Its not long term. Sure enough though trail gear let me down... the EGR connector is about 3/4 of an inch too close to the engine, so it absolutely will not meet up with the tube. They included a block off plate so I will use that for now.

dcg9381 · « **Reply #1225 on:** Dec 14, 2014, 05:23:05 PM »

While the 22RE is out.. What did you guys do to re-route the clutch lines?

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #1226 on:** Dec 15, 2014, 07:36:12 AM »

Quote from: MRHilux87 on Dec 12, 2014, 05:08:18 PM

I ended up with a trail gear rock ripper. I hate trail gear like everyone else. I just couldn't beat the price and I plan on going turbo before too long anyways, so Its not long term. Sure enough though trail gear let me down... the EGR connector is about 3/4 of an inch too close to the engine, so it absolutely will not meet up with the tube. They included a block off plate so I will use that for now.

I had the 10K ohm resistor trick in the egr plug and it worked to fool the ECU. If you search it's in here somewhere...

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #1227 on:** Dec 15, 2014, 07:36:42 AM »

Quote from: dcg9381 on Dec 14, 2014, 05:23:05 PM

While the 22RE is out.. What did you guys do to re-route the clutch lines?

I used the doner clutch line.

dcg9381 · « **Reply #1228 on:** Dec 15, 2014, 08:22:15 AM »

Anyone else do something different or happen to know the thread types on the OEM clutch line so I can bend-up my own?

Nation · « **Reply #1229 on:** Dec 15, 2014, 08:59:06 AM »

I coiled my clutch line and just used the stocker on my 84 4runner.

Related Topics