Author Topic: Bleeding rear disc brakes. Can't get all the air out.  (Read 9461 times)

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alwayzbroken

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:headscratch: :dunno: I wasn't trying to be.

Have you checked to see if any fluid is coming out at the M/C.May have gotten a bad M/C.

I will check tomorrow to see if fluid is even coming out of the rear circuit in the master. Somehow I doubt it.
If you still have control you aren't going fast enough

alwayzbroken [OP]

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For you guys that run the FJ80 master cylinders, does it allow the pedal to go to the floor when air is in the lines before the brakes system is bled? My pedal bottoms out without touching the floor. I didn't think of this at first but now I am confused. It seems to have an awful short travel.
If you still have control you aren't going fast enough

BUBBA

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It sounds like you got a bad m/c.Was it new or reman.
87 4runner 350 with custom dent package. 
My budget beater

alwayzbroken [OP]

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It is a reman master cylinder.
If you still have control you aren't going fast enough

mudmaster

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Mine was a new FJ80 MC and I didn't have the problems you are describing even after I plumbed in a residual valve
Time to go wheelin!

reklund5

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Reman master cylinder from where?  If its not a genuine Toyota part take it back and go see the parts guy at your local dealer.

Ryan

'84 Hilux, locked, dual-cased, winched, EFI converted, 37" tired, half-doored (in the summer...)
'87 Supra, 400 HP.  smooth as glass at 130 'cause my tires are NEW!...
'92 F250 Diesel, tow rig, ATS Turbo, leveling kit, killer stereo

alwayzbroken [OP]

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Mine was a new FJ80 MC and I didn't have the problems you are describing even after I plumbed in a residual valve

Do you think the additional residual valve is necessary? Would you recommend it?
If you still have control you aren't going fast enough

79coyotefrg

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it shouldnt really matter,  if you r rear brakes were dragging then i would say loose that residual,  but with no fluid at all,  :headscratch:  pull the MC  and see if some fool left a nut or something inside the MC  blocking the piston movement
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

Willy Mammoth

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It is a reman master cylinder.

 :slap:  I never buy reman cylinders, especially if they are aluminum  :smack:
 

:usa: American by birth, redneck by choice. 

Making Of http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=6472.0  
 
Sightings Of  http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=10805.0

alwayzbroken [OP]

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I picked up a new Toyota master that I am going to try. Hopefully it solves the problem.
If you still have control you aren't going fast enough

79coyotefrg

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did you get your money back on the other one ??
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

alwayzbroken [OP]

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I am gonna try one more time with the old one after letting the rears gravity bleed all weekend, if it doens't work still, then I'm gonna throw the new one in. I work weekends at a parts store so I am just gonna warranty the reman master and put that money towards something else I need. I got the new one brand new from somebody that I know for 50$ and it has never been installed.
If you still have control you aren't going fast enough

mudmaster

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Do you think the additional residual valve is necessary? Would you recommend it?
I had alot of pedal travel without it
Time to go wheelin!

alwayzbroken [OP]

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I had alot of pedal travel without it

Cool, if I have a lot of pedal travel I'll get one.
If you still have control you aren't going fast enough

alwayzbroken [OP]

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Problem solved. It was the junk A1 Cardone remanufactured master cylinder that I bought from the parts store I work at. It must have been drawing air in with every push of the pedal. I installed the new Toyota Aisin master cylinder and had perfect pedal in about 5 mins.  :shake_head:
If you still have control you aren't going fast enough

reklund5

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Score #36546513516843136  for factory Toyota parts  :beerchug:


Glad to hear you got it all working...did you end up needing that residiual valve after all? 

Ryan

'84 Hilux, locked, dual-cased, winched, EFI converted, 37" tired, half-doored (in the summer...)
'87 Supra, 400 HP.  smooth as glass at 130 'cause my tires are NEW!...
'92 F250 Diesel, tow rig, ATS Turbo, leveling kit, killer stereo

Northern Runner

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HA.HA. I used to be a Cardone rep. I returned a ton of waterpumps and power steering pumps, but not that many master cylinders.

BUBBA

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Glad to hear you got it fixed. :beerchug:
87 4runner 350 with custom dent package. 
My budget beater

mudmaster

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 :clap2:  :beerchug:
Time to go wheelin!

germ

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Good Job! Glad you got it fixed.

Erik
* Regardless of what happens, someone will find a way to take it too seriously.
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alwayzbroken [OP]

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Thanks for the help guys.
If you still have control you aren't going fast enough

alwayzbroken [OP]

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Glad to hear you got it all working...did you end up needing that residiual valve after all?
Ryan

I haven't driven it yet, but it has great pedal sitting in the garage. I am loading it on the trailer tomorrow or thurs to go bend some tubes for it so I will find out how the brakes work then.
If you still have control you aren't going fast enough

alwayzbroken [OP]

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HA.HA. I used to be a Cardone rep. I returned a ton of waterpumps and power steering pumps, but not that many master cylinders.

At the store we have had much better results with Cardone than all the previous brands that we have carried. I was very reluctant to believe that the master was faulty because i know how rare it is for them to be bad right out of the box. I deal with dumbasses that return perfectly good parts all the time becausse they are not smart enough to figure out that the part is hooked up wrong so they blame it on the part.
If you still have control you aren't going fast enough

germ

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I'm totally with you, I usually will rack my brains, pull every manual and **gulp** ask for directions before I'll consider a faulty part. Like you, I'll try every possible combination before pulling and replacing a brand new part. But, it does happen, like you just found out.

glad you got it going though, let us know how it works.

Erik :usa:
* Regardless of what happens, someone will find a way to take it too seriously.
* 2% rule: Must be 2% smarter than what your working on.
* If you make something even a fool can use, only a fool will use it.
* I've been crapping in the woods longer than lil'buddy has been alive!

 
 
 
 
 

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